Simple Solar Powered Deep Hydroponics (SiSoPoDH)

So what is the SiSoPoDH? It is a project that got stuck in phase "I will improve it soon", but after some 5 years, I found out there might be no need to improve it.

It is:

Simple by design, a sharp knife, and scissors is all you need - but you can (visually) improve it if you have 3D printer around, and it can be tweaked.

Solar Powered - You might be surprised that this whole system works only with the simplest solar pump/fountain. It might not be enough in your region - but you can easily upgrade most of the solar panels, or add another one.

Deep Hydroponic is usually description for systems where is a lot of space in water for roots. It has advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is that you don't need to be that precise with nutrients, the disadvantage is that most plants tend to grow more if they have a space for roots.

Overall, it is a well-tested system for green beans, lettuce, basil, and cucumbers, which is easy to take care of. You can forget it for weeks, and your plants will still flourish.

I will divide the supplies section into materials and tools, not everything is necessary - so I will highlight the absolute minimum in bold text.

Materials:

• Box, around 50 liters (I used Ikea Samla box, 45l)
• Lid
• Solar Fountain, 1.5-2W solar panel with cable (I used1.8W 180L/H Brushless Solar Panel Fountain Water Pump)
• Plastic or 3D printed tube, diameter based on the fountain sprinkler head.
• Orchid pods, 5-8 cm diameter
• Expanded clay aggregate (8-12mm)
• Nutrients, in my case simple liquid nutrient with pH around 7 is enough.
• (Optional) Dark spray - if the box is transparent
• (Optional) Wire

Tools:

• Sharp cutters (capable of cutting the box lid)
• (Optional) Power drill (to make holes in the box lid)
• (Optional) 3D printer

To set up the solar hydroponic system efficiently, follow these step-by-step instructions. Begin by determining the size of the orchid pods, as this will dictate the number of plants you can accommodate in the system simultaneously. Next, consider the depth of the pods and use this measurement to establish the optimal water level within the cultivation box. It's essential to mark this water level clearly on the box for reference. Additionally, select a suitable length for the tubing that connects to the solar fountain. This tubing length is crucial as it ensures the water is propelled over the designated water level, maintaining the proper environment for your hydroponic setup.

We will start with the lid for the cultivation box.

We will need to decide how many orchid pods we want to use. As you can see in the images, I decided to use 6 pods. Originally I planned to use all of them at once, but most of the time, I use just 3.

1) Based on the circumference of the orchid pods, prepare a symmetric distribution of the holes. I decided on 2x3 pattern, but 2x2 would be enough.

2) Based on the top of the orchid pods, decide on the diameters of the holes. It is better to be safe and be sure that the pod will not fall through.

3) Either cut or drill the holes. In my case, I used cutters - the result is not as nice, so I later 3D printed a cover for the holes.

4) Check that all of the pods fit. You can add the expanded clay aggregate, but keep one pod empty for now.

Let's look at what we need to do to prepare the box!

1) If your box is transparent, it is a good idea to paint it. Don't forget to keep a small part to measure the water level! It can be handy.

2) In the next step, fill most of the box with water, and put on the lid with one of the pods inserted.

3) Fill the box with water, until it starts to touch the bottom of the pod. There should be no more than 1mm of water at the bottom of the pod.

4) Mark the water level on the side of the box - you will want to regularly refill the water under this level when growing.

We will need to add the solar fountain so it oxygenates the water for plants. It is quite easy to setup.

1) Put the fountain at the bottom of the cultivation box, and measure the needed distance for the plastic tube/or 3D-printed tube. You will want to set it up in a way that ht fountain at least breaks the water lever when the box is full.

2) You can attach the top of the tube with wire to the lid - so it doesn't fall to the side or to the bottom. Be careful so it does not splash water outside!

3) Test it on sun - and check the setup is sufficient.

4) Place the wire to the solar panel through one of the holes, and place it somewhere where there will be enough sun.

Growing is the fun part! I experimented with green beans, tomatoes, cucumber, salads, basil and peppers. I tried hydroponic (classic aeration and water aeration, and mist aeroponics). But every year I always use this system with green beans (normally I can get them only frozen in the shop).

• For nutrients I use the simplest liquid nutrient for tomatoes and peppers (for classic growing) I can find in a shop. Usually, they recommend 30 ml of nutrients for 5l on the bottle. I add 60 ml for 45 l of water.
• I either remove half of the water in the cultivation box after a month and add a fresh one. Or just keep it - and the plants usually die after 3 months/2 harvests.
• If the water starts to turn green or any other color - something is wrong. Try to change half of the water.
• If you have a chance to measure pH over time, do it. Stable pH will mean a better environment for plans. Different plants need different environments, but you can find a lot on the internet now.

I had success with this setup from the very begging, so I hope you will enjoy it too!

Have fun! And I welcome feedback and recommendations. (I plan to add more details and photos in the future.)

Since I am usually growing basil in my system, I wanted to share my Pesto recipe:

Ingredients:

• 60 grams fresh basil leaves, (frozen works too, if you grow too much)
• 60 grams freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
• 120 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil
• 40 grams pine nuts (you can also use walnuts or almonds)
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2.5 grams salt, or to taste
• 1.25 grams black pepper, or to taste

Instructions:

1. Toast the Pine Nuts (Optional): If you like a slightly nuttier flavor, you can toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few minutes until they turn light golden brown. Make sure to stir frequently to prevent burning. Once toasted, let them cool.
2. Blend Ingredients: Place the fresh basil leaves, grated Parmesan cheese, toasted pine nuts (or other nuts), peeled garlic cloves, salt, and black pepper in a food processor.
3. Blend Again: Pulse the ingredients a few times to begin breaking them down. Then, while the food processor is running, slowly drizzle in the extra-virgin olive oil until the mixture becomes smooth and well combined.
4. Taste and Adjust: Taste the pesto and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt, pepper, or lemon juice as needed. You can also adjust the consistency by adding more olive oil if you prefer a thinner pesto.
5. Serve: Your homemade pesto is ready to use! You can toss it with cooked pasta, spread it on sandwiches, use it as a dip, or drizzle it over grilled vegetables or chicken. It's a versatile sauce that can add a burst of flavor to many dishes.
6. Storage: If you have leftover pesto, store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. You can also freeze it in ice cube trays for longer storage. Since I usually have a huge amount of basil, my preferred way is to freeze it in ice cube trays, and then store it in bag in the freezer.

Enjoy your homemade pesto!