Simple DIY Drawer Dividers Using Connectors!

Anyone else have an infamous utensil drawer in the kitchen? One where trying to find your tongs, spatula, or ladle is like diving into a black hole? Or how about another drawer with bowls or kid dishes scattered about? Here is a custom solution for how to make drawer dividers using 1/4" board and 3D printed connectors that you can quickly and simply arrange a drawer organizer and keep it organized!

If you don't have a 3D printer, I have 3D Printed sets available for sale on my Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

In the past I've tried using these boards for drawer dividers with only glue to hold them together, but they inevitably come apart! They also tend to be tricky to glue. This configuration is similar, but uses 3D printed connectors to make things easier and allows the dividers to last longer!

All it takes is two 0.25" x 2.5" x 4' boards (about 8' total), a saw, a measuring tape or ruler, and a 3D printer. Glue is optional. If you don't have a 3D printer, I have 3D Printed sets available for sale on my Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

First things first, remove the drawer by pulling it all the way out, lifting the front end up so the back wheels can come out of the track. Next, throw away anything that you don't use or have too many of! You'll thank me later. :)

Remove all the utensils (or whatever items are in the drawer) and organize into similar sizes, categories, and items. Then take a try at arranging the items back in the drawer according to their groups, putting least used items in the back.

Note: You do not have to try to stack every item in the drawer, just pick the widest and longest of the group. Remember, once you are done the dividers will help stacks of items to not fall over into each other.

Next, sketch on a piece of paper the layout of the drawer and identify how straight lines (which will be dividers) would separate each group of items. (You can also draw with pencil lines between item groups if you like.) Then using a measuring tape or ruler, measure each divider line and note on your paper.

Note: Don't forget that the boards are 1/4" thick themselves to make sure your math adds up!

The 3D Print Connectors I have designed in TinkerCAD have 1/4" grooves for the boards.

• Cross Joint - Used when two dividers intersect at the same point.
• T Joint - Used when one divider butts up against the side of another.
• Corner Joint - Used for corners of the drawer.
• End Cap - Used on the edges of each divider as needed to make a snug fit in the drawer (Optional)

Determine how many T Joints, Cross Joints, Corner Joints, and End Caps you need on the sketch. You can do the connectors just on top of the boards and as long as the dividers fit snug in the drawer you should be fine. However, if you want to put connectors on top and bottom of each joint, multiply your numbers by 2.

***If you don't have a 3D printer but still want to do the project, I have 3D Printed sets available for sale on my Etsy shop: TaylorMadeCustom3D

Due to variations of 3D print filament and printer tolerances please first 3D print the Test Connectors.STL to determine if they are a snug fit for your boards. The connectors shouldn't be too tight, but also not too loose. Because of the way they are designed there is a little pinch slot that should groove the board when you push it onto the board, holding it so it does not slip out. You will want to push down on a hard surface to fit them on the boards. If the fit is too tight, try scaling the Test STL file in your slicing software up to 103-105% and try again. If too lose, try scaling down to 95-97% until you get a good fit. Then make sure to scale similarly for how many you need.

Print Settings:

• 0.3 layer height
• 100% infill

Note: In my own experience I first printed these with normal PLA and they fit great! Then I used wood PLA (as pictured) but had to scale up the size to better fit due to the different filament.

Using your measurements and a miter saw or regular saw, cut the boards to your measurements. If desired, sand the edges and/or stain the boards.

Next, fit your boards inside the drawer to ensure they fit up against each other well. As long as the boards are 1/8" or less from the edges of the drawers, the end caps will ensure a tighter fit. If too tight, trim edges to fit.

After dry fitting the boards, mark with a pencil where each Cross intersection and T intersection will be between boards. Then, outside the drawer on a hard surface use the connectors to firmly connect each intersection top (and bottom if you want). You can add wood glue or Elmer's glue to the edge of the boards that butt up against each other for a stronger fit. Make sure to firmly push down on both sides of the connectors to ensure they won't slip.

Once the dividers are assembled, insert back into the drawer and use optionally use the end caps to make a tighter fit to sides of drawer where needed.

Here are a few drawers I've done. Each unique, but super simple to create. Let me know how yours turn out!!