Simple Canvas Backpack

Here’s how to make a super functional and stylish canvas backpack from scratch. Whether you need something for everyday carry or a weekend adventure, this bag is sturdy, customizable, and beginner-friendly.

The final bag dimensions are 34cm tall by 24 cm wide by 12cm deep (13.5 inches tall by 9.5 inches wide by 5 inches deep).

For this project, you will need:

1. 1 yard/meter 10oz cotton canvas fabric, at least 45” wide
2. 1” webbing, poly or cotton (145 inches / 370cm total)
3. Cotton sash rope (optional)
4. 2x pieces, 15 inches / 38cm each
5. 1” Rectangle loops
6. 1” Tri-glide slide
7. Cut your own zipper (39 inches /100cm total) with add-your-own zipper pulls (4x)
8. Main compartment 31 inches / 78cm
9. Front pocket 7.5 inches / 19cm
10. Matching thread
11. 15mm snap set and hammer
12. Tailor’s chalk or marking pen
13. Fabric scissors
14. Sewing machine
15. Lighter (for singeing webbing edges)
16. Printer and paper for pattern
17. Paper scissors
18. Tape
19. Iron
20. Ironing board
21. Sewing pins or clips
22. Measuring tape
23. Fabric wax (optional)

I made a video to go with this project, showing all the steps. Please watch it!

Print the tiled pattern file at 100% scale on US letter or A4 paper. Use the registration marks to line up the pages as shown in this layout diagram, and tape them together. Cut out pattern pieces, including shaded cutouts as shown on front and back panel pattern pieces. You can skip this step if you’re using a sewing projector, for which a separate file has been included.

If you have been following me for some time, you know I really love sharing information for free, and I never put my content exclusively behind a paywall. But I do need money to live, so I appreciate it when those of you who are able to show your support financially. If you enjoy this pattern and want to show your support, here are some ways you can do that:

1. Purchase a digital copy of this pattern
2. Purchase supplies from my affiliate links above
3. Support my Patreon

Fabric should be at least 45” inches / 115cm wide. ¼” / 6mm seam allowance is already included. Pin pattern pieces to the fabric. Do not cut center marks. For the pieces that require two of each (bottom, side pocket, and strap tabs), you can either fold the fabric over before cutting or cut a second set separately.

Use tailor’s chalk (or marking pen or pins) to transfer markings to fabric:

1. Front pocket location
2. Front strap locations
3. Back strap locations
4. Center points as labeled

When preparing lengths of poly webbing, use a lighter to singe the cut edges so they don’t fray. Use caution, as the melted webbing will be hot and sticky for a few moments after heating, and could burn you and/or surfaces. If using cotton webbing (which doesn’t melt), add 2cm to each piece to allow for a 1cm hem on each end to finish the edge. If your webbing is on the thicker side, you may wish to omit the cotton sash rope, since the handles won’t need any extra bulking.

1. Strap tabs (flat side edge ½” / 13mm, then in half)
2. Inner pocket (top edge folded ½” / 13mm, then 1” / 25mm)
3. Side pockets (top edges folded ½” / 13mm, then 1” / 25mm)
4. Outer pocket top (straight edge 2” / 5cm, to mark)
5. Zipper welt (in half lengthwise)

Fold webbing in half around one long side of each rectangular metal loop. Sandwich the webbing inside the fold of a strap tab fabric pattern piece, and stitch across the edge twice, perpendicular to the webbing. Optionally also stitch a box with an X in it.

Stitch the smaller piece of webbing to the larger piece as shown. Install snap pieces at each end.

Fold straps and ropes in half to find and align their midpoints. Fold webbing lengthwise around rope and pin or clip in place. Stitch the webbing closed along the center 13 inches/ 33cm of the straps using a zigzag stitch.

Thread the longer back strap through the strap attachment.

Stitch twice across the top edges of the pockets that you ironed earlier: the inner pocket and the two outer side pockets.

Pin and stitch the front pocket zipper to the pocket bottom fabric with right sides together as shown. Flip right side out and press, then topstitch, along the zipper’s bottom edge. Add zipper pulls, then topstitch the remaining tabs across the zipper ends.

Pin and the front pocket top in place along the zipper edge. Stitch partway across the seam as shown below. Then move the zipper pulls to the area that has been stitched before stitching the rest of the zipper/topflap seam. This method avoids having to sew around the bulky zipper pulls, which would inevitably wobble your seam. Next, topstitch the zipper welt, using the same stitch-slide-stitch method to avoid the zipper pulls. Then move on to the corner darts. Fold each corner with right sides together and pin and stitch the darts as shown. Finally, fold over and pin the raw edge of the pocket.

Align the pocket with the marking on the front panel, and re-pin the edge to secure it to the front panel. Topstitch the pocket in place all the way around where you pinned. Next, pin the front strap ends in place at the smaller markings on the front panel, then stitch them in place using a box pattern.

Prepare the zipper welt by placing a doubled over tab of webbing at the end and stitching it in place as shown:

Stitch the side pockets to the ends of the side panels using a slightly smaller seam allowance.

Then sandwich the side/top panel (right side up), zipper welt, and main zipper (face down) along one edge, and stitch using a zipper foot along the main section of the seam, leaving 3 inches / 8cm at the ends loose for now.

Pin the other side of the zipper to the top and side edges of the front panel, starting at the top center to ensure the sides are symmetrical. Stitch along entire zipper as shown:

Next, add the zipper pulls. Flip open and topstitch around the front.

Align both bottom pieces at the bottom center of the front panel

Pin and stitch the bottom of the side pockets to the short edge of the bottom.

Close up the remaining side seams.

Flip to the right side and topstitch the outer perimeter.

Box stitch the back handle as you did on the front. Then fold the straps up and into an X shape. Stitch the webbing edges most of the way around, but leave the areas close to the edge of the fabric for later.

Pin interior pocket.

Pin bottom strap tabs.

Stitch around the interior pocket and strap tabs using a smaller than your usual seam allowance.

With right sides together, pin the back panel to the backpack body starting at the bottom center and top center.

Stitch around the entire perimeter.

Open the main compartment zipper and turn the backpack right side out. Topstitch around the perimeter, capturing the seam allowance on the inside.

Feed back straps through the triglide slides, then the rectangle loop, then around the center post of the triglide slide. Stitch webbing end to itself to secure.

Load up your new backpack and take it out on a walk!

Thanks for reading my Instructable!