Simple 3D Printed Starlink Antenna for Monitoring

This simple 3D printed antenna combined with a fine wire mesh and a standard satellite TV LNB, provides a means to monitor Starlink and OneWeb downlinks using Software Defined Radio (SDR). The reflector is a metal sheet or mesh curved into a parabola in one axis. This makes it easy to make and gives an unusual long beam on the sky, which is ideal for capturing more satellites than a normal TV satellite dish which has a smaller but more sensitive beam. Placing this long beam axis north-south should allow the capture of a satellite transit about every 30s or so.

An arm is provided to take a cheap TV satellite LNB and hold it in the focus of the parabola of the reflector and so makes it easy for an interested hobbyist or school project. The 3D printed parts are made so they can be printed on a small 22x22cm print bed, using standard PLA or PLA+ firmament. The part can be glued together with superglue or equivalent.

• 3D printer and PLA filament
• 30x45cm fine metal mesh (<1mm grid) or 1mm thick aluminum plate or even kitchen foil stuck to plastic
• Superglue
• Cheap standard universal Ku LNB with a 400mm collar
• 2 M2x25mm screws, nuts and washers.
• (optional) 32cm of M3 thread for better support

Download the three parts of a side and print out each twice and then glue them together as in the final scheme into two separate sides. There are cubical locating tags to help position and gluing. These might need cleaning up with a needle file beforehand.

Print one of each of the following stl files. Gluing all but the upper focus holder which is attached via two M2 screws to the lower holder part.. This will hold the LNB in the focus

Now print out four (or more) of the left and right crossbar parts and glue the right and left ones together. These cross from one side to the other to set the right distance.

Slide the two side over the large tags on the thick front bar and glue. Then glue the crossbars in place, one at the bottom back and the others near the top angled in such a way to support the mesh. There are holes in the sides which can take M3 threading to add compression and some weight to make the antenna a bit more robust

Roll out the mesh on the upper part cutting to length (watch out for sharp edges!). A very fine mesh can be glued into place, where as the thick mesh may need taping at the edges (metal duct tape seems to work best).