Shoretrooper Helmet From Star Wars Rogue One

by alcadude in Craft > Costumes & Cosplay

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Shoretrooper Helmet From Star Wars Rogue One

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In this tutorial I will be showing you how to make an impressive Shoretrooper Helmet from Star Wars Rogue One, using a 3d printer. These files are split for a 200x200 mm build plate, meaning many budget 3D printers may be used.

Supplies

- 3D Printer (I used a CR-10)

-PLA or ABS Plastic

-Files for 3D Printing

- 5 minute Epoxy

- Rust-oleum Grey Filler Primer

- Rust-oleum Matte Clearcoat

- Rust-oleum Matte Black spray paint

- Sahara Beige Spray Paint

- Acrylic Paints (Black, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Red)

- Masking Tape

- Sandpaper (150,180, 220, 320, 400 grits)

- Smoke colored welding visor

- Clamps

- Bondo Spot Putty

- XTC 3D coating by Smooth-On

- Liquid Latex (for masking)


Printing the Parts

Screenshot 2021-07-03 at 13-39-20 Shore Trooper Helmet V2 (Sean Fields) Split to fit 200x200 build plate by beerman_uk.png
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Screenshot 2021-07-03 at 13-36-51 Shore Trooper Helmet V2 (Sean Fields) Split to fit 200x200 build plate by beerman_uk.png

For printing, I used PLA plastic. It is non-toxic, biodegradable, and easy to print with, making it a great choice for makers and hobbyists alike. I used Ultimaker Cura as the slicing software.

Many print setting were used, but as a general rule, larger parts with less detail were printed at .2 mm layer height, with a speed of 60 mm/s. Smaller parts or parts with more detail were printed at .15 mm layer height, with a speed of 45 mm/s. While it may take longer to print the smaller parts at higher print quality settings, it ensures the details are more crisp and saves a lot of time later on in the sanding phase.


I used 20% infill for all the parts to increase durability. For top and bottom layers, I set it to 1.2 mm, to increase strength. I did not change the standard layers or perimeters, standard to Cura. Supports were used for nearly all of the pieces, as there were many shapes that had large overhangs etc.

1st and 3rd Image from thingiverse.

Gluing Parts

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Screenshot 2021-07-03 at 13-59-08 Shore Trooper Helmet V2 (Sean Fields) Split to fit 200x200 build plate by beerman_uk.png

All of the pieces of the helmet require gluing, except for the blast shield piece, as shown in the above picture in blue, because it will be glued on later. The files we are using for this project are very nice and have registration tabs built into all of the pieces. This ensures that everything will go together well. I used 5 minute epoxy because it gives you a longer working time than superglue, and creates a much stronger bond than superglue.


To assemble the pieces, first lightly sand all of the contact points with 220 grit sandpaper. Then, mix up the 5 minute epoxy and begin gluing the pieces. For certain pieces, it may be easier to hold by hand until the parts dry. For others however, it will be easier to apply glue then use clamps and tape to hold the parts together.

If additional support is needed, the seams can be reinforced after gluing with a little bit more epoxy.

Note- do not glue the front details or bottom breathing pieces. Those will not require post processing and will be painted/ applied later.

Sanding and Surface Finish

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Screenshot 2021-07-03 at 14-16-04 Shore Trooper Helmet V2 (Sean Fields) Split to fit 200x200 build plate by beerman_uk.png
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All 3D printed models have visible layer lines from printing, so they require post processing to achieve a smooth finish. Below are the following steps we used. Remember to wear a mask when sanding and spray painting!


1) Spot putty - apply Bondo to all of the seams where 2 parts were joined and to visible rough areas. It can be applied with a gloved finger, or a Popsicle stick. Note- Bondo is toxic and should be used outdoors for safety. After it is dry, sand the entire helmet using 150-180 grit sandpaper. Then, wipe down the entire helmet so it is dust free

2) Mix up some XTC 3D using the instructions on the box. Then, using a brush, apply it to the model surface. The coating is self leveling and the brush strokes won't be visible when it dries. The application time is 10 minutes and it takes 4 hours to cure completely. This coating increases the durability and reduces the sanding of the helmet, making it a win-win for any 3D printed project. However, be careful applying the resin to the finer details, as they may disappear.

3) After the coating has completely dried, use 150 and 180 grit sand papers to sand down the surface. If it is still not smooth, apply additional spot putty.

4) After the helmet appears smooth, spray a thick layer of filler primer onto the helmet. This will show you all of the pits and areas that need additional sanding. It will also fill in the minor lines.

5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the helmet is fully smooth. Then, finish sanding with 320, and 400 grits.

Note- the grey images above are after the first coat of filler primer. It may be useful to mark out the areas that need more work with a sharpie.

Spray Painting

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Remember to wear a mask when spray painting! The painting process for this helmet has multiple steps to ensure a perfect end result. Stick with it and you will get an awesome helmet!

1) Thoroughly clean the entire helmet, making sure that no dust is remaining.

2) Coat the entire helmet with 3-5 layers of matte black spray paint. The more layers, the better.

3) Once the helmet is completely painted black, apply liquid masking with a fine brush. Look at reference images and the images above to see where to apply the fluid to get a accurate look. Any area that is covered will remain black once the helmet is completed, so apply carefully.

4) After the masking fluid has dried, spray on multiple coats of Sahara Beige spray paint. This is considered the most accurate color when compared to the movie costume.

5) Spray matte black spray paint to the front detail piece and the bottom vent pieces and set aside for later.

Finer Painting and Weathering

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Now that the helmet has had all of its base colors applied, the detail paint can be applied.


1) Gently peel off the masking fluid using the pad of your finger. Be careful, as using your nails may result in scratches in the final finish.

2) Next, paint on the black stripes on either side of the helmet by masking off the area and painting it with black acrylic paint. Also, tape off the bottom rim of the blast shield and paint it black as well.

3) Paint the earpiece and 2 stripes of the cheek black with acrylic paints. (shown in the pictures)

4) Create a watery black paint solution by mixing equal parts of black acrylic paint and water. This is known as a wash. Apply to the entire helmet. Then, rapidly wipe all of the paint away using a slightly damp paper towel. This will leave the paint in recesses and add to the heavily weathered look of the Shoretrooper.

5) Next, use burnt umber and burnt sienna washes in areas were dust or grime would likely accumulate on the helmet. Look at reference images for inspiration.

6) After the helmet is weathered to your liking, finish the finish by applying black and brown weathering pastels to specific areas of the helmet and blast shield. This can be used to create dust and scorched effects.

7) For the blast shield, apply the same effects used above. After everything is done, make a stencil out of masking tape using the image above as reference. It should be around 1 inch in diameter. Look at reference images to carefully apply it to the correct area on the blast shield. Then, apply red paint to the stenciled area. Remove tape when done.

Note- the last 2 images are finished shots of my helmet that you can use as reference when weathering the helmet.

Sealing and Visor

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Now that all of the helmet has been painted, glue in the front detail and bottom vent pieces to the rest of the helmet. To seal in all of the hard work, I used matte clear coat. This creates a layer that will protect the paint.

Next, glue on the blast shield using epoxy. Use some clamps to hold it in place while drying.

For the visor, I used a smoke colored welding visor. I found it on amazon for around 20 dollars. Take a piece of construction paper and use it to trace the rough outline of the visor's shape. Then, trace another outline about 2-3 cm outside of the original line. Cut out the shape and trace onto the visor material. The visor is thin enough to be cut with a scissors, making it easy to use. Cut out the shape and check the fit on the helmet. If there is any issue with the fit, trim the areas and recheck. Finally, apply some epoxy to the unseen areas of the visor and put it inside the helmet. Be careful to make sure no epoxy leaks into view.

If desired, foam padding can be cut and applied to the inside of the helmet using spray glue, so it will be more comfortable to wear for cosplay.

Finished Helmet

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You now have an awesome helmet to wear with the rest of your cosplay or to show your friends!

I have personally worn this helmet to Star Wars Celebration and can guarantee that with pads, it is very comfortable to wear.

Please post makes! I would love to see what you have made.