Scratch Build: Discus Launch Glider (DLG) [Completely Arduino Powered]

A Discus Launch Glider (DLG) or just any other Model aircraft in general, is always considered too much work or too complicated to do, most of the time, you can't find necessary materials or equipment to make stuff like this. Welp, not everybody has their college funds to spend on a transmitter either.

Therefore, you know why you're here, to make a DLG and an easy transmitter using basic an commonly available materials and equipment. If that's why you've been raking the web, then you've (finally) arrived at the right place.

Well, just start already then.

This project is divided into two parts, the Transmitter (TX) and the Reciever (RX):

(All the stuff can be found in a shop that sells circuit stuff, what's that called? A circuit shop?)

Transmitter (TX):

(If you already have a store bought transmitter, I guess there's no need to make another one?)

1. Arduino UNO R3 (or any copy, that's fine too, as long as it works the same...)
2. Joysticks (youll need two of these, check the image, it's gotta have 5 pins.)
3. NRF24L01 PA+LNA (you get a 1100m range, good enough.)
4. Jumper Wires (Male-to-Female) (youll need quite a few, I mean, a lot)
5. A power source (anything to power your arduino with:9V battery, Battery Pack, Battery case you ripped out of your toy RC car, or even your laptop charger or arduino cable.)
6. Beadboard (Any type that has the power row.)(the row with the plus and minus on either side.)

Reciever (RX):

(Just the circuit part. We'll make the plane out of absolutely random stuff, like anything that can be glued and is sturdy)

1. Arduino UNO R3 (another one...)
2. Servos (atleast two, any kind you can grab)
3. NRF24L01 PA+LNA (another one too...)
4. More Jumper Wires (Male-to-Male and Male-to-Female)
5. Some light Battery(Any battery that can supply power.)

All in all, 2 Arduinos, 2 Servos, 2NRF's, 2 Joysticks, and a few Jumper wires. Not the worst you've seen huh?

Let's just jump into the wiring process, grab your wires, and your stuff:

Joysticks to Arduino UNO:

(the joystick's got 5 pins, both the joysticks have a similar wiring process.)

First Joystick:

GND----------Negative row of Beadboard

5V----------Positive row of Beadboard

VRX----------A0 of Arduino

VRY----------A1 of Arduino

SW----------D0 of Arduino or any digital pin

Second Joystick:

GND----------Negative row of Beadboard

5V----------Positive row of Beadboard

VRX----------A2 of Arduino

VRY----------A3 of Arduino

SW----------D1 of Arduino or any digital pin

Power Supply:

Any Battery type Power supply can be connected to the Positive row and the Negative row of the Beadboard,

If your power supply is the Arduino Cable or a Laptop charger, (yes, I was serious), then connect it to the Arduino, and connect the 5V of the Arduino to the Postive row and the GND of the Arduino to the Negative row on the Beadboard.

(Arduino Uno's Vin should be connected to the Positive row of the Beadboard and GND to the Negative

so that it's powered.)

NRF to Arduino UNO:

CE----------D9 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

CSN----------D10 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

MOSI----------D11 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

MISO----------D12 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

SCK----------D13 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

VCC----------3.3v of Arduino (DO NOT Supply 5V from beadboard)

GND----------GND pin of Arduino

IRQ----------Leave it Unconnected

All right, the body of the transmitter is basically the box inside which you are supposed to place your circuit.

It depends on you, do you want to punch two holes in your Shoebox for the joysticks and say it's a transmitter, or you could 3D print a transmitter design for yourself, that'll look professional. I just made a cardboard Transmitter design that I copied from the Spektrum NX10SE, and painted it all Black, but you can design your transmitter in practically any way you want to.

This is the circuit that is inside the plane, so it's gotta be light. A good target weight for your reciever side circuit is 60-80 grams completely. It's much better if you can use a lightweight battery pack, but it's still fine if youre using a normal battery case or a 9V battery.

Let's just jump into the wiring: (pretty simple)

NRF to Arduino UNO:

CE----------D9 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

CSN----------D10 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

MOSI----------D11 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

MISO----------D12 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

SCK----------D13 of Arduino or any free Digital Pin

VCC----------3.3v of Arduino (DO NOT Supply 5V from beadboard)

GND----------GND pin of Arduino

IRQ----------Leave it Unconnected

Servos to Arduino UNO:

You'll have to split the 5V into many parts, you can use anything that is light enough and lets you split your power for this. In my case, I used a couple of resistors. (see image)

First Servo:

GND (the darkest wire)----------GND of Arduino

5V----------Power source

Signal (the brightest wire)----------D0 or any dightal pin of the Arduino

Second Servo:

GND (the darkest wire)----------GND of Arduino

5V----------Power source

Signal (the brightest wire)----------D1 or any dightal pin of the Arduino

Connect your battery to the Arduino in any way you can, In this case a battery holder is used (see linked file)

The best way is using a 9V battery connected with a capacitor (see image)

All right, here's where we branch out. In this model, I have used aileron controlls due to the lack of carbon fibre tubing and to save the hassle of attaching pull cables. But using Tail surfaces to controll your aircraft is also a good idea (again, if you can access the necessary materials, and still manage weight.)

The best idea here is to make ChatGPT do all your coding for you, because it can prove to be pretty time consuming to write your own code. Keep in mind that you do have to specify all of the major components and pin configurations for AI to understand what the function of the code is and how it's supposed to work. The servos should move around 30 degrees in each direction.

Note: You will have to download Arduino IDE (Arduino Environment) in order to input your codes. You have to connect the Arduino board to the computer you are using via the connection cable. There are many online resources to help you with this step.

Right, so you've completed both the circuits AND figured out how the stuff works, now all you have to do is build the DLG. Look around yourself, what do you see that could be light enough to make a glider out of.

Setting Targets:

Target weight (Glider without circuit) = 100 grams (The lower the better)

Target wingspan = 30-40 inches

Wing Shape: Pick a good wing shape, from the internet or create your own (Don't get too carried away, you are going to have to sculpt it later on).

Glider length = Around 60-75% of your wingspan should be fine.

Circuit management = Your circuit should fit into the fuselage (Arduino board under the wings, NRF taped onto the tail.)

Dihedral Wing angle: Around 6 degrees

Looking for Materials:

All you practically need is a material light enough to fly.

Some examples:

• Foamboard
• Balsa Wood
• Styrofoam
• Cardboard (only if it's really, really thin)
• Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass (not recommended, it's a headache during poor landings.)
• Practically any material that's light

Selecting an airfoil:

A good airfoil is important for a glider, it's got to be thin, aerodynamic and one that produces lift.

Some examples:

• AG series (I used AG47)
• GOE series
• Any you can find on the web.

Try your best to stick to the airfoil, but even if you don't it should still be fine.

Draw out your wing shape in the actual size and then copy it down onto your material, then do what you have to to make it steady and still have the airfoil.

If you have ailerons for controll, cut out the grooves and then attach your flaperons using tape, making sure that your servo and hinge are paralell.

After you cut out the wings and shape them according to the airfoil, you need to put them on the dihedral angle.

You could stick them into angle using really strong tape or glue, or use a rigid material an bend it into the angle and then attach the wings to it.

The wings shouldn't be that difficult, as long as you keep things simple.

You need to find a light, thin, flexible and hollow ( if pull cables are being used) rod that will be good enough to mount your wings and tail surfaces onto and endure the weight of the fuselage comfortably.

Carbon fiber is the best option here, but strips of bamboo or even rolled up paper that is sturdy isn't a bad idea.

Vertical Stablizer:

It's just a piece of material that is attached to the tail to change the direction in which the aircraft is moving.

Elevator:

It's another piece of material that is attached to the tail to point the nose of the aircraft up or down.

Tail surface mount:

You'll need to mount the tail surfaces somewhere, so a mount is necessary, a piece of balsa or cardboard attached to the tail boom with really strong glue should do.

Pull-Cable Configuration:

Youll need to make hinges and then springs that will help you use the tail surfaces for moving the aircraft, this requires servos to be paced inside the fuselage. You will have to take a piece of strong wire from the tail hinge to the fulelage so that the servo can move it. See image.

The Fuselage just a pod-like structure that's used to form the head of the aircraft and store all of your electronics properly (they'd be hanging off the aircraft).

Try your best to model it out of something light, the shape of the pod doesnt really matter unless it produces too much drag or is too huge. Make sure you can fit your mattery inside this fuselage, in some cases, your servos should also be able to fit. Store the Arduino under the wing joint (Try your best to keep the wires out of sight).

You should be able to put the whole thing together pretty easily if you've come this far without any headaches.

Let's start at the fusealge, build a structure that connect's the wings to the fuselage and then the fuselage to the tail boom. Just connnect the tail surfaces to the tail boom, and then the tail boom to the fuselage so that it looks like a javelin.

After that, you should just connect the fuselage to the wings, in such a way that the wings are securely held in place. Use really strong glue to do all of the connection and let it completely dry before trying to chuck the aircraft anywhere.

Examine your glorious work and feel good, you're almost done with the whole thing!

Connnect both the Transmitter (TX) and the Aircraft (RX) to their respective power supplies first. Make sure that the POWER light on the Arduino is glowing.

Move any of your joysticks and check to see if the aircaft's servos move.

If they do, EPIC, you're done!

If they don't, try these:

• Check the power supply.
• Check the codes on both sides.
• Check the wiring.
• Did you connect everything properly?
• Go to online forums (flite test or quora) and ask for help.

Keep in Mind:

Always start with a light chuck or a javelin type launch to see if it works properly.

Balance your center of gravity by moving the batteries forwards and backwards in the pod.

Fly in wide open areas.

Comment about your designs below

Thanks,

and...

WELCOME TO THE HOBBY