SKULL STAND(S) FOR BUDDING ARTISTS
by Creativeman in Craft > Art
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SKULL STAND(S) FOR BUDDING ARTISTS
I recently took an online art class on charcoal portraiture. It was highly recommended to have a skull in the studio to learn the anatomy of the head/skull, and to be able to practice drawing said art piece. So I get the skull and found it was rather difficult to manage as far as posing it, changing views, rotating the skull and so forth. The solution: stands for the skull that allow all of the above movements safely and easily. I made one stand for the desk top, or art table...and one was made as a floor stand, to go by the easel for stand up work.
Materials and Tools Used
I just scrounged around the shop and found what I would need: Pine pieces as shown, an old broom handle, a few screws and a 5/16in. piece of dowel. Basic shop tools are used, drill or drill press; table saw, forstner or spade bit, sander, etc.
Desk Top Stand Was the First Made
Stand was made to hold the skull securely and to be oriented level and plumb.
Designing the Stand
When I looked at the bottom of the skull, it was apparent that two braces, or 5/16in. dowels would bed needed. One lateral brace and one vertical or anterior/posterior brace. A base was made of two pieces of pine, and a hole was drilled to fit the main support, which is a recycled broom handle. Pictures show these placements.
One Down, One to Go
With a little testing, placement of the dowels is defined, and all is put together to yield a helpful stand for the skull.
I Needed a Floor Stand As Well
Having made the desk top stand, I wanted a floor model as well. The only difference in the two would be the base, and the length of the main support, or broom stick.
Making the Floor Stand
First, a base is designed. I cut a round piece of plywood as shown, cut to the size of the flower pot that is used as a form for concrete. The bottom of the flower pot is cut out, and the pot is screwed to the base piece of plywood as shown. A wet mix of concrete is troweled into the opening of the pot, level with the top edge. After curing for a day or two, the stand can be painted, and I chose to use black paint.