Rustic TV Stand

I'm calling this a TV stand but it could also be used as a console or side table. It would easily fit behind a couch or be placed in a bedroom for storage. Being "rustic", it was built with simple construction methods from low cost lumber. The total material cost (excluding baskets) was around $50.

The design can be scaled up or down to meet your needs. I will give you my simple logic for this size:

• Strong and large enough to hold a 60 to 70 inch TV
• I wanted a total height between 24 and 30 inches which seems typical for this size TV
• Shelf to hold cable box, DVD player, XBox, etc. I measured a few of these items and wanted room for later additions. I didn't want this space to be too tall since you would see wires. I was really looking for a black hole.
• The wife wanted baskets on the bottom. Believe it or not the basket size turned out to be one of the key design constraints. These baskets are 12" wide x 14.4" deep x 13" tall. I was able to squeeze four of them with a 1/4" to spare.

As with other items I've posted on Instructables, it's way overbuilt from a structural standpoint. You will also need two people to move it since it weighs in at about 75lbs.

Tools List:

• Table Saw
• Miter Saw (optional)
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Drill
• Drill Bits
• Nail gun (optional)
• Sander
• Wood clamps
• Tape Measure
• Pen or Pencil

Materials List:

• 2x4 by 8' long (x3)
• 2x6 by 8' long (x3)
• 2x12 by 8' long (x2)
• Screws (1.5" and 2.5" Long)
• Glue
• Stain
• Polyurethane
• Basket (x4)

You will be building to this drawing. The parts are color coded for easy reference.

Cut 2x6 to 60" long. Make 3 of these.

Use a pocket hole jig to drill holes at 6" increments in one of the 2x6 boards. I used a Harbor Freight version of the jig but the most common type is made by Kreg.

Attach the boards together with 1.5" long screws. Add glue for a better joint. When screwing together, the boards might want to cup. Make sure to apply pressure to keep the boards flat.

Cut 2x12 to 59" long. Drill the pocket holes at the locations shown. Make two shelves. Since these boards will be hard to access later, I suggest pre-sanding at this point.

Cut 2x4s to the lengths shown. If the dimensions work out perfectly, the hole locations will work as shown. I would hold off and drill the holes as the last step. You will need six of the longer piece and three of the shorter piece. Make 3 extra short pieces for temporary bracing (discussed later).

I used a pocket hole jig in the smaller piece which allowed me to make the connection to the legs. Use the temporary pieces to help keep the joint square. Add glue to the joints. Make three leg assemblies.

Using a table saw, I cut down the scrap from the 2x6 and 2x12s to make 1.5" square pieces. These 1.5" square pieces are used for the cross pieces and trim (later step).

You might want to cut the pieces a little longer than shown in case your leg dimensions are off. I used a miter saw to make the 45 degree cuts.

You will need eight trim pieces. My gaps between legs were off by 1/8" so I suggest holding off until the end before cutting these pieces.

The dowel is optional but adds a decorative touch and also helps with structural support. Make 12 of these.

Place top on floor with pocket hole side up. Position legs as shown. I used four 2.5" long screws to attach each leg assemble to the top. Take your time positioning these to make sure everything stays square.

Space the shelf 5" from the top with pocket holes facing up. I used a 4x4 (3.5") and 2x4 (1.5") to get the 5" spacing. Attach the shelf to the legs with screws at the pocket hole locations.

Add your temporary 2x4 to the top of the legs to verify a square joint. Start with the long piece and position as shown. I cut my pieces long and shaved them as needed. Use glue and/or nails to attach the cross to the legs. Repeat the process with the short pieces.

Add the next shelf as shown. It should rest on top of the crosses. Attach with screws at the pocket hole locations.

You can now turn the unit over. Add the trim between the 2x4s. I wanted a tight fit so I shaved each piece (multiple trips to the miter saw). I used glue and wood clamps to attach the trim.

Drill 5/8" diameter holes in the center of the 2x4s and center on the 2x12 shelves. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the 2x4 or you will hit the screws or protrude out the the 2x12s. Squirt glue in the holes and hammer in pins. I left about a 1/4" protruding from the legs.

Break all sharp edges and clean up the joints. I used a little wood filler at the trim locations and crosses.

Apply a pre-stain wood conditioner to the entire piece. Add a double coat to the ends of the 2x6s and 2x12s. This stand is stained with black cherry from Rustoleum. Cover stain with satin polyurethane. I sanded with 600 grit paper between the two coats of polyurethane.

The top shelf can be used to hold blankets. The wicker baskets are a tight fit. If you decide to use these baskets, consider growing the width of the table by 1".

Ready for football season :).