Rocky Mountain Balaclava - Face Protection for Winter Mountaineering

This winter I've been doing more climbing in the mountains which comes with gear needs that are more specialized compared to warmer months. At higher elevations I've found the need for a better balaclava than what I've previously used. I've worn other brands in the past when I worked outside at an airport and have a rough idea of what I like and don't like. However, feel free to customize your design to fit your needs!

When it comes to clothes and head protection, layering is crucial. Maintaining proper body temperature and avoiding sweat build up should be a focal point for those in the mountains. Hypothermia becomes a real concern as you get above tree line where nothing blocks heavy, frigid gusts of wind and snow.

This balaclava is made to handle the elements. It is custom fit, water resistant, wind proof, moisture wicking, and insulated with dual layer fleece. It's provides a protective barrier for the face and can withstand 50+ mph winds and high elevation snow storms.

I am also testing a water tubing system which will feed directly into the balaclava for hydration. The water delivery tubing fits inside a jacket to avoid freezing in the cold. This will also allow access without having to remove the balaclava. Camelbak's and other water bladder systems have a tendency to freeze when exposed to the cold. By having the water tubing close to the body and inside a jacket I'm hoping it will remain insulated and keep water warm enough from dropping below its freezing point.

• Goggles
• Rotary cutter
• Fabric scissors
• Hobby knife
• Cutting mat
• Paper for tracing
• 4-way stretch polyester blend fleece fabric (I used a 90% polyester, 10% elastic blend)
• Fusible interfacing
• Fold over elastic - 5/8"
• Foam - 2mm
• Mesh fabric
• Nose bridge wire (I used one from an old N95 mask I had)
• Soft tape measure
• Tailor's chalk
• Iron
• Ironing board
• Sewing pins
• Binding clips
• Thread
• Sewing machine
• Tubing for hydration (optional)

One of the ways to make sure you can withstand the cold is to make your balaclava fits perfectly around your pair of goggles. This also has the added benefit of avoiding fogging which happens when people tuck the edges of their mask beneath the goggles.

To create a goggle outline, curve a piece of paper underneath the foam edges of your goggles and sketch an outline.

When you're done, lay the paper flat and sketch it throughly.

Cut an outline out and fold it in half along the center. While folded, trim the outline to make it symmetrical.

This will be referred to as GOGGLE OUTLINE in further steps

Place your goggles on so they fit comfortably and take the following measurements with a soft tape measure. Each measurement below will have a name listed to refer to in later steps.

• GOGGLE TO BACK - Top of goggle to the back of shirt line
• TOP OF HEAD TO SHOULDER - Top of head to the side of the shoulder
• NOSE TO MIDDLE CHIN - Underneath the nose of goggle to middle of chin
• NOSE TO SHIRT - Underneath nose of goggle to bottom of shirt
• GOGGLE CIRCUMFERENCE - Circumference of head above goggles
• NOSE CIRCUMFERENCE - Circumference of head using tip of nose as anchoring point (not pictured)
• MIDDLE CHIN CIRCUMFERENCE - Circumference of head using middle of chin as anchoring point

You will use these to trace the balaclava outline in the next step.

There will be two fabric parts of the balaclava which I'll refer to as the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. There will also be a FOAM MASK which will be attached to the front of the mask in later steps.

• Take the GOGGLE OUTLINE, fold it in half, and lie it flat against the edge of paper and trace the outline (Note: You will be doubling the fabric over when cutting)
• Measure from the bottom of the GOGGLE OUTLINE to the middle chin and make a mark using the NOSE TO MIDDLE CHIN measurement.
• Calculate the diameter of the GOGGLE CIRCUMFERENCE and make a mark perpendicular from the edge of the paper using a measuring tape or ruler.
• Sketch a semi-circle from the top of the goggle to the mark you just made. You may want to do a bit of sketching until you're happy. Remember, you can always make the area a bit wider and remove excess fabric later on.

NOTE: Make sure to add extra room to the outside edges to accommodate a 5/8" seam allowance

• Calculate the diameter of the NOSE CIRCUMFERENCE and make a mark perpendicular from the edge of the paper using a measuring tape or ruler.
• Connect the curves of the GOGGLE OUTLINE point and the NOSE CIRCUMFERENCE point
• Calculate the diameter of the MIDDLE CHIN CIRCUMFERENCE and make a mark perpendicular from the edge of the paper using a measuring tape or ruler.
• Connect the curves of the nose point and the middle chin point

NOTE: The dimensions below are based on my face shape and size. This is where your foam mask will fit so make sure to size accordingly so that you'll have room to breathe. You may need to make this area larger or smaller.

• Go back to the bottom of the goggle and measure 1" down and make a mark.
• Place the GOGGLE OUTLINE's nose on this point and sketch the bottom portion of the outline
• Make a mark on the "lower" goggle outline 1.5" from the edge of the paper
• Draw a straight line downwards from the "lower" goggle outline mark
• Draw a 1.5" line perpendicular from the paper edge at the MIDDLE CHIN CIRCUMFERENCE mark
• Make sure both lines connect.
• Mark a point on the edge of the paper using the NOSE TO SHIRT measurement from the bottom of the original GOGGLE OUTLINE
• Make a mark from the top of the head downwards using the TOP OF HEAD TO SHOULDER measurement.
• Trace from the NOSE TO SHIRT mark to the TOP OF HEAD TO SHOULDER all the way back towards the the back.

WATER TUBING SYSTEM Area

• Measure 1" downwards from the MIDDLE CHIN CIRCUMFERENCE line and make a mark.
• Draw a 1.5" perpendicular line from the edge of the paper on this marking.
• At the 1.5" mark, draw a parallel line to the bottom of the outline.

When this looks good, cut the outline to create your FRONT PANEL.

OPTIONAL: Water Tubing System Inlet

• An option for a hydration tubing option will be covered in a later step.

Double over piece of polyester fabric and place the FRONT PANEL outline along the edge. You'll want your fabric to stretch from side to side around your head the most, so make sure that the fabric is aligned properly to do so.

Mark around the outline with tailor's chalk and cut the fabric.

Repeat this process again as you need two FRONT PANEL sections.

Use the FRONT PANEL one more time to cut an outline of fusible interfacing.

You'll end up with three total FRONT PANEL sections. Two polyester cloth sections and one fusible interfacing section.

NOTE: If you want a lighter weight balaclava remove one layer of FRONT and BACK PANEL fabric and don't use fusible interfacing.

Pin or clip the interfacing with the fusible side laying into the non-finished side of a piece of fabric. Make sure there are no overlapping edges. Trim any excess interfacing hanging over the edge of the fabric.

When ready, spray water onto an old shirt (or other fabric) laid over the top of the interfacing/fabric combo. Then, using a hot iron, press down for ~10 seconds to bond them together. DO NOT move the iron back and forth like you are ironing a shirt! Keep spraying/pressing until every area is bonded.

Using the FRONT PANEL, measure the distance between the missing portion of the GOGGLE OUTLINE accounting for the extra 5/8" seam allowance on each side.

• Using this as your starting measurement, take a piece of paper and mark two points which will fill this gap (have an extra 5/8" seam allowance on each side too).
• Grab the FRONT PANEL outline and a fabric measuring tape and measure the length from the top of the GOGGLE OUTLINE to the GOGGLE CIRCUMFERENCE POINT on the back of the head. Note this length as BACK PANEL TOP.
• From the two marks that you made on the tracing paper, create parallel vertical lines the length of BACK PANEL TOP. The lines can start to widen as you get closer to the end points as the skull extends in the back.
• Using the GOGGLE TO BACK measurements from earlier, the lines should continue to "open up" as you eventually reach the GOGGLE TO BACK length.

Repeat the same process from cutting the FRONT PANEL as the BACK PANEL and fuse one of the pieces of fabric.

Pin both the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANELS together along the outside edges.

Using a long basting stitch, sew a straight stitch with 5/8" seam allowance on each side.

When complete, pull the unfinished balaclava on and note where any excess fabric is located along the edges. Use fabric pins to hold these in place and then go back and sew more basting stitch lines until the fit is perfect.

NOTE: The balaclava should be snug, but you don't want it so tight that it is constricting and hurting. It should fit like a beanie on the top of your head and loosen as it drapes down into the neck and shoulders.

To create the FOAM MASK follow these instructions (the attached photos will help too):

• Place the GOGGLE OUTLINE at the edge of a 2mm piece of foam and mark where the outline ends on an opposite side.
• Find the center from the GOGGLE OUTLINE mark and notch a center mark in the foam.
• From this center mark, sketch approximately 2-3" inches from the edge to a NOSE END POINT.
• Make two INWARD CURVE sketches from the NOSE END POINT back to the edge of the foam.
• Cut the entire foam square from the sheet.
• Fold the foam in half along the center line so that both sides are equal.
• Cut through both sides of the foam using a hobby knife along the INWARD CURVE.
• Unfold the foam. Use the bottom of your GOGGLE OUTLINE to trace from each point on the INWARD CURVE to the outer end of the foam. When sketching this, tilt the center of the GOGGLE OUTLINE to roughly the same angle as the bottom of your INWARD CURVE (see dotted line picture for clarity on this). This will lead to a foam seal of your balaclava around your goggles.
• Place the foam in your sewing machine, select a wide zig-zag stitch (~5.0mm), and pinch the INWARD CURVES as you sew from the NOSE END POINT. Take your time. As you sew the INWARD CURVES will join and start to bend outwards as the mask takes shape.
• Back stitch and trim any excess thread.

Custom Goggle Fit and Exhalation Valves

• Fold the foam in half again and cut through both sides of foam along the GOGGLE OUTLINE that you sketched.
• Pin or use binder clips to align the center mark of the foam with the center mark of the FRONT PANEL.
• Let the fabric drape naturally over the mask and pin it to check for a proper fit.
• While the foam is clipped, mark the foam 1/2" from the edge of the fabric hole in the fabric and 1/2" from the center line where you sewed the INWARD CURVES together.
• Trace an outline of the marks you made and use a hobby knife to cut through both sides of foam. This is where the exhalation valves will be placed.

Sewing in mesh panels over the exhalation valve openings

• To avoid direct wind and snow entry into the FOAM MASK, grab 2 small pieces of mesh fabric to act as a barrier.
• Using the exhalation valve pieces of foam which were cut out earlier, mark around two pieces of scrap fabric to make an outline. cut this center out and cut around 1/4" of the outside.
• Sew the mesh into the fabric using zig zag stitches. This doesn't have to be fancy, it will simply be used to hold them in place when attached to the foam.
• Take the FOAM MASK, flip it inside out and sew in 5/8" Fold Over Elastic to the inside edges of the exhalation valve cutout. At the same time you're doing this, sew sewing in the mesh fabric panels. Flip the mask inside out when complete

Trimming foam down

• With the mesh panels sewn in place, measure ~2 inches from the center line on each side and create a vertical line.
• Create a line below the GOGGLE OUTLINE which mirrors the top. When trimmed this section will help cover your cheeks from cold exposure. The nose and cheeks are particularly susceptible to frostbite.
• With the lines drawn, trim the excess foam.

Attaching the wire nose bridge

• I decided to use an N95 mask I had lying around and cut out the foam and wire bridge instead of creating my own.
• After trimming this the bridge down (or making your own), add a basting stitch along the top to keep it in place

There are quite a few pieces to sew into place on the FRONT PANEL, but here is the order and ways to secure them:

• Have the fused interfacing panel face up and pin or bind the FOAM MASK to it face up.
• Zig-zag stitch the fabric and the top of the foam to secure it in place.
• Take 5/8" Fold Over Elastic, line it up halfway on the back side of the interfacing/foam, and apply a basting stitch to secure it in place.
• Grab the finished side of the FRONT PANEL and begin to pin or clip it all into place with the interfacing.
• Use a triple stitch or small zig-zag stitch and a 5/8" seam allowance to join all outside edges of the FRONT PANEL.
• Fold the 5/8" Fold Over Elastic over both layers and use a stretch zig-zag stitch to lock the elastic onto both pieces of fabric. You can stretch the elastic a bit in the GOGGLE OUTLINE area, but the earlier measurements should be spot on, so there isn't a need to tighten down too much.
• When everything is in place, zig-zag stitch and secure the FOAM MASK to the FRONT PANEL in the hole area where the mask protrudes from.

This step is pretty easy. Sew both pieces of BACK PANEL fabric together using a triple stitch or zig-zag stitch with a 5/8" seam allowance on both sides. On the GOGGLE OUTLINE side of the BACK PANEL, sew in Fold Over Elastic along the edge to be combined with the FRONT PANEL.

Line up both panels together with binding clips and sew a triple stitch or zig-zag stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance along the edges. Do this for both edges.

NOTE: Make sure the balaclava can eventually be flipped inside out and facing the right direction when done!

Leave about 1/2-1" inch of room near the GOGGLE OUTLINE to be finished in the next step.

Take both the FRONT and BACK PANEL and line up the Fold Over Elastic edges making sure they are completely even. Line up the FRONT and BACK PANEL edges so they are even as well. Pin or clip these areas down

Sew a triple stitch or zig-zag stitch along the panel's 5/8" seam allowance towards the GOGGLE OUTLINE Fold Over Elastic. Back stitch when reaching the end.

Snip the joined panels excess fabric off and lie the fabric to one side. Sew a triple stitch or zig-zag stitch over top of this excess to keep the area around the GOGGLE OUTLINE flat against your skin.

In the area below the FOAM MASK, there is a section missing for more material to be added. This can be a simple fabric addition, or an area where a WATER TUBING SYSTEM can be added.

Cut roughly a 6x6" piece of fabric for this section.

NOTE: I chose not to use interfacing or double layered fabric here as this will tuck into a jacket already and not need additional insulation.

Now cut a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2" piece of foam and make a small hole where a piece of hydration tubing can enter.

Cut a 2x2" area into the fabric and lay the foam over top so it covers all sides.

Zig-zag stitch all edges to lock the foam to the fabric.

Pin the fabric on the edges of the WATER TUBING SYSTEM to the FRONT PANEL and sew zig-zag stitches to join the area underneath the FOAM MASK. Trim/finish as needed.

Finish the bottom of the balaclava with overlocking stitches (I used a quick zig-zag stitch) and trim any excess fabric along the way making sure the fabric drapes and contours evenly over the shoulders.

Pull the balaclava on and fit it with goggles making sure none of the areas of the GOGGLE OUTLINE show exposed skin between the edge of the goggles and the edge of the Fold Over Elastic (there shouldn't be any issues).

Take it out for a test run outside! Stay safe and have fun!