Reversible Soft Slipper Shoes
by piggleliggle in Craft > Sewing
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Reversible Soft Slipper Shoes
I have bad blood circulation. In winter, this leaves me with freezing cold hands and feet. i am told that this is extremely bad for my health. to prevent this, I whipped up these: reversible soft slipper shoes!
They're soft, warm and can be worn in bed (but only if you really want to.)
BTW, because everyone's feet are sized differently, steps 2 to 4 are just detailing how to create a pattern unique to your feet.
BTW again, sorry in advance for the shoddy photo quality. My best camera got dunked in water D:
They're soft, warm and can be worn in bed (but only if you really want to.)
BTW, because everyone's feet are sized differently, steps 2 to 4 are just detailing how to create a pattern unique to your feet.
BTW again, sorry in advance for the shoddy photo quality. My best camera got dunked in water D:
What Is Needed?
1. 1/2m of Fleece*
2. Pattern paper (printer paper is fine too)
3. Sewing Machine/Needle and thread
4. Pins
5. Chalk/Pencil
*The types of fabric that you use depends on the type of shoe you want, but I suggest fleece for soft, stretchy, warm shoes. I actually used fleece and cotton poplin for the lining, because I didn't have enough fleece, which worked well too. The only problem with using the poplin was that it's a weave fabric, and non-stretchy. Makes it a little hard to put on the shoes! XD
2. Pattern paper (printer paper is fine too)
3. Sewing Machine/Needle and thread
4. Pins
5. Chalk/Pencil
*The types of fabric that you use depends on the type of shoe you want, but I suggest fleece for soft, stretchy, warm shoes. I actually used fleece and cotton poplin for the lining, because I didn't have enough fleece, which worked well too. The only problem with using the poplin was that it's a weave fabric, and non-stretchy. Makes it a little hard to put on the shoes! XD
Base Pattern
Grab a piece of paper bigger than you foot. Trace your foot, label your foot tracing as right or left, then cut it out.
Get another piece of paper and put your foot tracing on top of it. Now, around your foot tracing, draw a round-ish shape that's bigger than your foot. This will be your base pattern. Again, label it left or right and cut it out. Remember that you haven't added your seam allowance to this base pattern!
The last thing is that you have to find the center line. Measure the perimeter by either using a string or a measuring tape. Halve this measurement. Now, measure halfway along the foot. Mark your starting and finishing positions, somewhere between the toes and along the heel, as shown in the pictures. Fold along the line between these dots.
Get another piece of paper and put your foot tracing on top of it. Now, around your foot tracing, draw a round-ish shape that's bigger than your foot. This will be your base pattern. Again, label it left or right and cut it out. Remember that you haven't added your seam allowance to this base pattern!
The last thing is that you have to find the center line. Measure the perimeter by either using a string or a measuring tape. Halve this measurement. Now, measure halfway along the foot. Mark your starting and finishing positions, somewhere between the toes and along the heel, as shown in the pictures. Fold along the line between these dots.
Pattern Part 2
Fold your base pattern along the centre crease. Then grab another piece of paper and fold it in half lengthways.
Using the base pattern as a guide, draw a shape on one side of the fold (of the piece of paper, not the base pattern) that looks like half a toe sock.
I know that that's really vague, but I'm not too sure how to describe it. For better understanding, look at the pictures. Fold in half and cut for a perfectly symmetrical pattern.
To note:
- The distance between the outer curve and the inner curve at the fold is meant to be the distance from your toes to where ever you want the shoes to cover on your feet.
- The length of the outer curve should equal the perimeter of the base pattern.
- The length of the straight bit at the end of the two curves is the length of how high up your ankle (at the back) you want the shoe to go.
Using the base pattern as a guide, draw a shape on one side of the fold (of the piece of paper, not the base pattern) that looks like half a toe sock.
I know that that's really vague, but I'm not too sure how to describe it. For better understanding, look at the pictures. Fold in half and cut for a perfectly symmetrical pattern.
To note:
- The distance between the outer curve and the inner curve at the fold is meant to be the distance from your toes to where ever you want the shoes to cover on your feet.
- The length of the outer curve should equal the perimeter of the base pattern.
- The length of the straight bit at the end of the two curves is the length of how high up your ankle (at the back) you want the shoe to go.
Checking Pattern
Tape the two pattern pieces together as shown in the pictures. Use masking tape, or some other not-so-sticky tape. Be gentle, as it's just paper.
The outer curve of the 2nd pattern piece meets with the perimeter of the base piece. The fold on the 2nd piece lines up with the centre crease of the base piece.
When shoe is assembled, GENTLY try it on. If it doesn't fit, make the inner curve of the 2nd pattern piece larger.
When your shoe fits without tearing the paper, then your pattern is finished! Carefully unpeel the masking tape, and your pattern is ready for use.
The outer curve of the 2nd pattern piece meets with the perimeter of the base piece. The fold on the 2nd piece lines up with the centre crease of the base piece.
When shoe is assembled, GENTLY try it on. If it doesn't fit, make the inner curve of the 2nd pattern piece larger.
When your shoe fits without tearing the paper, then your pattern is finished! Carefully unpeel the masking tape, and your pattern is ready for use.
The Lining
Place the base pattern on the lining fabric, wrong side up. Trace around the base pattern, and then draw on the seam allowance, an extra 1.5cm all the way around (I only used 1cm, but that's because I was sewing by hand).
Flip the base pattern over, and repeat. Cut the two base pattern pieces out. *
With the other pattern piece, fold your lining fabric just enough for the pattern to fit. Fold the pattern in half and place the fold along the fold in the fabric. Trace and add seam allowance as before. Repeat and cut.
Using the base pattern as a guide, mark the centres on the base fabric pieces. Now, putting the right sides together, pin and sew the pattern pieces together as you did with the masking tape. Don't forget to line up the centres!
* I used two different fabrics for the two shoes. If you do this too, remember to make one shoe left, and one shoe right!
Flip the base pattern over, and repeat. Cut the two base pattern pieces out. *
With the other pattern piece, fold your lining fabric just enough for the pattern to fit. Fold the pattern in half and place the fold along the fold in the fabric. Trace and add seam allowance as before. Repeat and cut.
Using the base pattern as a guide, mark the centres on the base fabric pieces. Now, putting the right sides together, pin and sew the pattern pieces together as you did with the masking tape. Don't forget to line up the centres!
* I used two different fabrics for the two shoes. If you do this too, remember to make one shoe left, and one shoe right!
Putting It Together
The construction of the fleece shoe is the same as the lining. Once you have four shoes; two linings and two fleeces, pair them up so that you have two fleece-lining pairs. Left shoes with left, right shoes with right.
Take one pair. Put one part inside the other, making sure that right sides are together. This means that you can see the seams. Line up the seam at the heel, then pin the opening together. Sew along, leaving a 10cm gap. Turn the shoe inside out through this gap.
Tuck the ends into the gap again and slip stitch the gap close. Done!
...Or not. Repeat with the other shoe. NOW you're done :D
Take one pair. Put one part inside the other, making sure that right sides are together. This means that you can see the seams. Line up the seam at the heel, then pin the opening together. Sew along, leaving a 10cm gap. Turn the shoe inside out through this gap.
Tuck the ends into the gap again and slip stitch the gap close. Done!
...Or not. Repeat with the other shoe. NOW you're done :D
Try on Your New Shoes
Try them on, dance around, and have insane amounts of fun :D
It's important to note that when you turn the shoes inside out (i.e. reverse them), the shoes are flipped. What I mean is that your shoe will go from being a leftie to a rightie.
If you don't want them to be reversible, they're really good to decorate, on account of them being a big blank shoe. I can imagine shoes with bows, ribbons, smiley faces, retro prints, catchphrases, autographs, miniature Mona Lisa's...so feel free to run wild.
Thanks for viewing! :D
It's important to note that when you turn the shoes inside out (i.e. reverse them), the shoes are flipped. What I mean is that your shoe will go from being a leftie to a rightie.
If you don't want them to be reversible, they're really good to decorate, on account of them being a big blank shoe. I can imagine shoes with bows, ribbons, smiley faces, retro prints, catchphrases, autographs, miniature Mona Lisa's...so feel free to run wild.
Thanks for viewing! :D