Repurposed Metal Fire Table
by Battlecrycustoms in Outside > Fire
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Repurposed Metal Fire Table
Summer is here and the days always seem so short. So why not make the best of your summer nights with a fire table. This build is not only easy on your wallet but it will stand the test of time. It's simple yet modern like most of my projects. You just need to know how to weld for this one, or find someone that knows how.
Supplies
* Scrap metal ( i used some angle iron a neighbor donated me)
* Fire table hardware ( amazon has some affordable options)
* Propane Tank
* Propane hose
* welding equipment (or pay someone to weld this up)
*plywood or melamine (thicker the better, i used 5/8)
* Wood screws (1.5 - 2")
* Caulking gun
* 100% silicone
* Pre-mix concrete.(don't use a quick setting cement like poste haste)
* Drill
* Mixing paddle
* 5 gallon bucket
* Water
* Metal paint
* Concrete finishing tools ( Trowel, Edger, Screet)
Building the Frame
Start by cutting up your pieces.
Top frame
- 2 pieces angle iron @ 4 feet
- 2 pieces of angle iron at 28 inches
Legs ( 4 inch square pipe)
- 4 pieces @ 20 inches
- Weld top pieces together and then attach the legs at the corners.
- Spray or roll on a metal paint at this point
Top frame
- 2 pieces angle iron @ 4 feet
- 2 pieces of angle iron at 28 inches
Legs ( 4 inch square pipe)
- 4 pieces @ 20 inches
- Weld top pieces together and then attach the legs at the corners.
- Spray or roll on a metal paint at this point
Build the Concrete Forms
**Build this form on top of the metal frame. You can transfer to a temporary table later and re transfer back onto the metal form.**
5/8 Plywood or Melamine cut list
OUTSIDE WALLS
* 1 piece 4' 2" x 30" for bottom ( gives the form a 1" overhang on all sides)
* 2 pieces 3" x 30" (outside pieces)
* 2 pieces 3" x 28 3/4" (screw these on the inside of 30" pieces)
- Attach to bottom piece a d caulk the bottom edges and corners. This ensures that nothing seeps out and gives you a smooth edge.
‐---‐-----------------------------------------------------
INSIDE WALLS ( this is where the fire table hardware will sit)
- I bought this kit from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y81JHJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_JK5FHZNT85ZQGYBGEVXP
- This kit is 24" x 8 " but you have some wiggle room with the skirt on the pan. At least 3 inches all around.
- 2 pieces @ 22 " x 4"
- 2 pieces @ 4 5/8 " x 3 5/8"
- These two pieces will fit inside a 22" x 6" hole you'll cut in the middle of the bottom to allow the walls to be screwed on from the inside. You can also add a lip under this opening to hold the inside walls up while you screw it in place.
5/8 Plywood or Melamine cut list
OUTSIDE WALLS
* 1 piece 4' 2" x 30" for bottom ( gives the form a 1" overhang on all sides)
* 2 pieces 3" x 30" (outside pieces)
* 2 pieces 3" x 28 3/4" (screw these on the inside of 30" pieces)
- Attach to bottom piece a d caulk the bottom edges and corners. This ensures that nothing seeps out and gives you a smooth edge.
‐---‐-----------------------------------------------------
INSIDE WALLS ( this is where the fire table hardware will sit)
- I bought this kit from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y81JHJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_JK5FHZNT85ZQGYBGEVXP
- This kit is 24" x 8 " but you have some wiggle room with the skirt on the pan. At least 3 inches all around.
- 2 pieces @ 22 " x 4"
- 2 pieces @ 4 5/8 " x 3 5/8"
- These two pieces will fit inside a 22" x 6" hole you'll cut in the middle of the bottom to allow the walls to be screwed on from the inside. You can also add a lip under this opening to hold the inside walls up while you screw it in place.
Pouring Concrete
Mixing Concrete
- Start by adding water to your 5 gallon buckets first. This prevents any clumps and makes mixing alot easier. Start with a little water and gradually add concrete mix in. You'll want the consistency of thick oatmeal.
-Pour mix into your form until it finally reaches the top. You want the mix to come over the forms a bit.
- Next you'll want to vibrate the sides to get the concrete to settle and release air bubbles. Do this by using an eye bolt in a drill and slowly find around the outside of the forms to vibrate it. You could also use a hammer.
- Once it's settled you'll want to screet the top with a flat board. Put the board on both sides of the form and move it from side to side while pulling from front to back. The purpose of this is to level out your concrete.
-Take a float trowel and smooth out the surface in a back and forth motion. Slightly lifting your front edge but still keeping the trowel flat.
- Once you have a unified surface you'll want to let it sit until it starts to set up. You'll know it's ready when you can poke your finger in it and compresses down slightly.
- Next take your finishing trowel and work the surface in a back and forth motion. Trying to smooth out but not bring up rocks. Nice and easy.
- Now use your edger and edge along the sides of your form. This will give a nice round over look on your finished concrete. Back and forth, slowly lifting the front and back end of the edger. Don't push too hard, you'll pass over this again when you're concrete sets up more. Now feather out your edges. Feathering your edge is just lightly swiping with your finishing trowel away from the edge to remove the edger line.
- When your concrete has set up to the point that it's a bit soft on top you'll want to swipe the top again. Its ok to use a bit of water at this point. Now edge the sides again and then feather out your edges again.
- Keep your concrete covered with poly or a tarp. You don't want your concrete setting up too quickly. Nice and slow is best, so pick a cool day to pour.
- Start by adding water to your 5 gallon buckets first. This prevents any clumps and makes mixing alot easier. Start with a little water and gradually add concrete mix in. You'll want the consistency of thick oatmeal.
-Pour mix into your form until it finally reaches the top. You want the mix to come over the forms a bit.
- Next you'll want to vibrate the sides to get the concrete to settle and release air bubbles. Do this by using an eye bolt in a drill and slowly find around the outside of the forms to vibrate it. You could also use a hammer.
- Once it's settled you'll want to screet the top with a flat board. Put the board on both sides of the form and move it from side to side while pulling from front to back. The purpose of this is to level out your concrete.
-Take a float trowel and smooth out the surface in a back and forth motion. Slightly lifting your front edge but still keeping the trowel flat.
- Once you have a unified surface you'll want to let it sit until it starts to set up. You'll know it's ready when you can poke your finger in it and compresses down slightly.
- Next take your finishing trowel and work the surface in a back and forth motion. Trying to smooth out but not bring up rocks. Nice and easy.
- Now use your edger and edge along the sides of your form. This will give a nice round over look on your finished concrete. Back and forth, slowly lifting the front and back end of the edger. Don't push too hard, you'll pass over this again when you're concrete sets up more. Now feather out your edges. Feathering your edge is just lightly swiping with your finishing trowel away from the edge to remove the edger line.
- When your concrete has set up to the point that it's a bit soft on top you'll want to swipe the top again. Its ok to use a bit of water at this point. Now edge the sides again and then feather out your edges again.
- Keep your concrete covered with poly or a tarp. You don't want your concrete setting up too quickly. Nice and slow is best, so pick a cool day to pour.
Tear Down
-3-4 days later your slab should be ready to be unveiled.
- Take apart the forms slowly, your concrete is still not fully cured.
- After 7 days you should be able to lift your slab onto something else and lift it back onto your frame. Use a friend for this, it will weigh over 300lbs
- Take apart the forms slowly, your concrete is still not fully cured.
- After 7 days you should be able to lift your slab onto something else and lift it back onto your frame. Use a friend for this, it will weigh over 300lbs
Concrete Sealing & Hardware Install
- For sealing your concrete you can use a roller, cloth or sprayer. Make sure to get at least 3 coats.
- Next install your hardware according to your instruction manual.
- Connect your propane and light er up.
- Now sit back and enjoy your creation.
- Next install your hardware according to your instruction manual.
- Connect your propane and light er up.
- Now sit back and enjoy your creation.