Repurposable Shipping Container Home

Hello, I go to John P. Stevens High School, am going to be a senior in the 2022-2023 school year (next year), and I am submitting this project to the Make It Modular: Student Design Competition. For the main drawings, I used AutoCAD software from the Autodesk suite. The process of learning to use the software was not too complicated; AutoCAD is fairly easy to learn and understand. I highly recommend using AutoCAD and other Autodesk software if you want to create any project similar to (or completely different from) this. At first I planned to transfer my plans into Revit after using AutoCAD, but I quickly decided to focus more on the planning of the project than the use of 3D software because I wanted to create a very useful container home and very thorough instructions to build. However, I will definitely be using Revit in the future for 3d modeling and rendering.

For the competition, I decided to create a repurposable shipping container home. Due to the nature of the various materials used, the main space is able to be repurposed for anything that can fit within it.

In addition, since you do not need to cut any holes into the exterior metal of the shipping container, it can easily be transported by cargo ship or truck, which increases its ability to be repurposed as it can be moved to many locations throughout the world.

Although there are some drawbacks, working with a shipping container can be really helpful because the outside shell is already there. This means that you can use fewer materials and do not need to build a roof.

In the design, I have included a small full bath that is not wheelchair accessible. Due to the interior dimensions of the container, it would be very difficult to have 5 foot clearance throughout the container if including any types of kitchen cabinets along the end. However, if you do wish to include an accessible bathroom, you simply need to modify the plans.

You can use the instructions that I include to build your own repurposable shipping container home, or, if you so wish, you can use this as a jumping spot for a similar project. Feel free to use whichever portions of the project most pertain to you. If you plan to modify the concept, try planning it out beforehand so you do not encounter any difficulties during construction.

Good luck! I hope you get some great ideas from this project.

In this section, I will only include the tools that you need. Each instruction section below will detail any required materials.

Appropriate shipping container (described below)

Hand Tools

• You will need standard hand tools such as hammers, screwdrivers, wooden mallets, various pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, electrical testers, utility knives, staple guns, and more.

Power tools

• You will need a circular saw for cutting plywood and other materials to size. You can cut materials at several larger hardware stores, however, it is much easier and less time consuming to be able to cut your own.
• A Drill/Driver set with appropriate bits is absolutely necessary for completing this project. I highly recommend investing in a fairly high quality battery powered set. This is probably going to be one of your most used tools.
• I highly recommend the use of a power miter box to cut materials such as rough framing lumber.
• Other tools such as a table saw or different hand held power tools can be used and be extremely helpful, however, they are not necessary.

Safety Equipment

• Safety Glasses for protecting your eyes
• Gloves for handling OSB and other rough lumber
• Water to stay hydrated
• First Aid Kit, especially if you are working in a more isolated area
• Any other safety equipment or guards specific to the tools or materials you choose to use

Other

• A small ladder or at least a large step stool in order to make your life easier when working on higher portions of the container home.
• A way to transport tools and materials from where you purchase them to your work location. This could be a truck, trailer, van, or even just a roof rack and some ratchet straps.
• You should find at least one person to help you with the exterior portions of the project. The exterior portion can be completed in only a couple of days if you have enough help. A great way to do this is to complete the rough framing, but not wall raising yourself. Then, invite some people to the site, bribing them with pizza or some other commonly enjoyed food if they help you.
• It is optional, but very nice to have someone to help you with the interior portions of the project. It is always nice to have another brain and set of hands around to help.

Before purchasing anything, make sure that you have a basic idea of what you want and need in a shipping container home. Do not go into the process blind, as this can easily result in failure.

However, you do not need to fully plan anything out until you have the exact dimensions of the container that you will be using.

For this container, I am planning to include a full bathroom so that it can be used as a full time residence. However, I am not making a built in bed frame crucial to the design as many smaller container homes and tiny homes do so that it can be modified to suit new needs as people grow and develop.

In addition, I do not want to cut any metal in this project, as that would decrease the structural integrity of the container and mean that you would have to create additional structure out of metal. This would require welding, which is a far more complex skill to learn than basic construction skills.

I wanted a container home that I could possibly build at some point in the future, so I customized everything to that.

For this project, you will need one 20 foot side opening shipping container. These containers have one long side and one short side that open completely with swinging doors. These can be obtained from shipping yards, online, or at shipping container warehouses/stores.

The container does need to be side opening, as the entire premise of this project is transportability. When the container needs to travel or be secured against anything, the doors can be easily closed. This means that it can be transported just like a normal shipping container, which can save immense costs when people need to relocate.

The biggest benefit of working on a shipping container like this one is that you can easily secure the work site

If you are purchasing a used container, make sure that it is still water tight by checking for holes and rust spots, especially on the roof. If it is not water tight, you will need to add a rubberized sealant to decrease any chances of leakage. Also inquire about what types of cargo were transported in the shipping container and make a choice depending on the toxicity of any transported goods. As a rule of thumb, many food carrying containers may contain high levels of pesticides and rat poison in the container, so you should allow the container to air out before you begin building.

The container I will be basing this project on has the dimensions listed below.

External:

Length = 19ft 10in

Width = 8ft 0in

Height = 8ft 6in

Internal:

Length = 19ft 4in

Width = 7ft 6in

Height = 7ft 6in

After extensive research and planning, I came up with this floor plan. The steps, drawings, and specifications below all pertain to this floorplan and the overall design I created. If you wish to change the overall layout of the container home, please make sure to also plan out the changes in framing, plumbing, and electrical among other systems.

The floor plan includes one small full bathroom, a small kitchen, and a sleeping/living/dining area. The design is generally to international building code standards, however, local building codes may vary.

Each step of the process can be hired out depending on the difficulty and your experience level.

The container can be placed on a preexisting foundation or you can make your own.

The container can be placed on a leveled crushed gravel base or on 16 inch concrete filled sono-tubes. These must be placed beneath the frost level of the site location and located at the 4 corners (the bearing points) of the shipping container.

Additionally, you can place the container on four concrete blocks, one at each of the bearing points.

Whichever method you chose, make sure it is right for the level of permanence you wish to achieve with your container home.

For this step, you will need 2x4s, framing nails, and bolts.

Fun fact: 2x4s are actually 1-1/2" by 3-1/2"

• Keep this in mind so that you don't make any mistakes like I did at first

In my plans, the walls are framed 16 inches on center.

I would recommend making the outer side wall (the one with a single window) first in order to get some experience in rough 2x4 framing, especially if you have never done it before.

After cutting all of the 2x4s to size, begin assembling them using toenailing. If you have never done this before, I would recommend searching for a youtube video or another instructable and then practicing on scrap pieces until you can successfully complete it.

If toenailing is too difficult for you (I have practiced for months and still struggle), you can always use screws instead of nails. However, it is more likely for screws to snap than nails.

Then, raise the wall and attach it to the shipping container using bolts. You will probably need help from another person for this because the wall will become somewhat heavy and very ungainly.

The front wall is harder to frame and slightly larger, but you can follow the same instructions to build and raise it.

If you wish, you can also frame the interior walls (step 12) at this point in time.

Once your framing is done, you can choose a sheathing material. This material can be as ugly as you want because it is eventually going to be covered up with your building wrap and whatever form of cladding you choose to use.

Some of the most common sheathing materials are OSB, (oriented strand board, or, as I like to call it, obnoxious splinter board) and low grade plywood. OSB is generally far cheaper than plywood. If you already have any of these materials laying around, you can use them as long as they are not too water damaged.

To sheathe your house, all you need to do is cover the entire face of all the walls you just framed. To do this, cut each piece of material to appropriate size to fit around the window and door openings, and then screw each piece onto the exterior with the 2x4s behind it.

This portion of the project is far easier if you have someone helping you to hold the pieces in place. Because of this, some people prefer to sheathe the wall before raising it. You may do this if you wish, but do note that it makes the wall heavier when you do eventually go to raise it even though it makes the wall more square.

Building wrap helps to make sure that no (or at least minimal) water or moisture gets into the interior of a structure.

For this step, you will need building wrap, building wrap tape, a staple gun, and a utility knife or scissors.

Installing the building wrap is fairly easy. Cover the entirety of the two exterior walls you framed and sheathed with the wrap, making sure to staple it to secure it and tape the edges to prevent water seepage. Follow any instructions about overlap on the building wrap package to ensure the best results. If you are planning to wait sometime before installing doors and windows, you do not need to cut out the rough openings until you are prepared for installation.

For this step, you will need three windows for a 36"x24" rough opening, one window for a 36"x40" rough opening, and one window for a 24"x24" rough opening. You will also require flashing, shims, sealant (caulk), and nails or screws (depending on the window type).

I recommend purchasing multi-paned windows, preferably ones with three panes in order to aid with insulation. Since there are many windows in the house, this will result in a decrease in heat transfer, which results in significant savings in heating and cooling and a decrease in carbon emissions. In addition, this can decrease the likelihood of condensation forming on windows, which can help prevent mold and mildew forming in the house.

You can choose from a variety of windows, however, for this project I would recommend double-hung or awning windows. Even though fixed windows are often less expensive, being able to open windows is a lot more friendly for the environment and the people living inside the house. Being able to use cross ventilation allows spaces to air out, decreasing dangerous VOCs inside of areas. In addition, opening windows can help with ventilation, especially in a small space such as a container home. Unlike some other opening windows, double hung windows open directly vertically and can be opened when part of the container is closed if necessary. However, if you wish to use another type of non-fixed window, it will also work fairly well in this project.

To begin, cut the sheathing away from the rough opening, and cut 4-6 inches diagonally away from the corners of the opening. Next, install flashing, making sure that the flashing is covered by the building wrap. Then, place the window into the rough opening, starting with a dry fit. Shim to level, screw or nail into place, and then seal around the window. Once the widow is installed, install more flashing and ensure that the window and the area surrounding the window is watertight.

This video (created by MrFixIt DIY, not me) provides a fairly detailed explanation and visual concerning installing windows.

For this step you will need one 36"x80" door.

The door is installed similar to the window.

Make sure to dry fit the door in the rough opening before installing it.

Install the door knob and any hardware that comes with it. If you choose a flat profile doorknob, you may not need to take it off when moving the container. However, for any other doorknobs, you will need to remove it before closing and moving the container. Since this is the only built thing that you may need to change before moving the container, it makes the container very portable

There are a lot of different options for cladding. Vinyl siding and shakes are very popular options, however, to be more environmentally friendly, I would recommend either hardie plank (a cement based product) or cedar siding. Whichever siding type you chose, make sure to research the care that will need to go into it long term to ensure that it suits your needs.

This step is not necessary if the floor of the container is already in good condition and you do not plan to install any flooring that requires a specific type of subfloor. Most shipping containers already have plywood flooring.

Make sure to research the type of flooring that you wish to install to determine whether or not you need a subfloor.

Using the skills you learned from the exterior wall framing (or just using the skills you already had), frame and install the back interior wall, the side interior wall, and the interior wall between the open area and the bathroom.

At this time, you can also build the optional interior wall for between the bed and kitchen countertop. This wall will make sure that crumbs and other cooking refuse does not fall down to the gap between the bed and countertop. It should make the house easier to clean on a day to day basis. You should install this wall before installing the kitchen cabinets.

Make sure to space the studs at 16 inches on center and include the header and king studs around the door's rough opening. Also make the interior walls 6 inches shorter than the exterior walls to account for the ceiling joists and insulation. You should build the walls inside of the container so that they do not get stuck outside. The larger walls will need to be built standing up since the pre-existing ceiling of the container may get in the way of raising them.

Although you do not need to include a celling in your container, I would recommend doing do for the benefits in aesthetics and insulation.

Since the container is not very wide and the ceiling is not structural at all, you only need joists. You can use 2x4s to span the width of the container. If you are concerned about loosing too much ceiling height, you can run these flat. However, that will reduce the amount of insulation you can install in the ceiling. Connect the joists to the interior and exterior walls using hurricane clips.

If you have never done any plumbing before, I would recommend hiring out this portion of the construction process. Plumbing is quite difficult and requires a lot of prior knowledge to do correctly.

The clean and grey water hookup should be located on the wall behind the toilet. From there, you should run the plumbing along the right side wall and down the back wall to the kitchen sink. All the plumbing is along one wall to decrease the piping required to plumb the entire house.

If you want to use a flushing toilet, also make sure that you have a black water or septic connection and make sure to plumb for the toilet during this step.

During this step, you will install wiring and outlet boxes.

Follow the plan and create circuits to adequately power all of your electrical equipment. This picture shows the approximate location of all my rough electrical components.

Make sure to bring power to under the sink if you are using an electrical hot water heater. Wire for outlets, the refrigerator, the induction cooktop, and the mini split (HVAC system).

You should bring the power in where I located it, and refrain from wiring through the window over the bed, but otherwise, you can customize the wiring to fit your needs and intended uses.

Although I did not include solar panels because doing so would decrease the portability of the house, a solar array could be utilized separate from or on the container home and enter the home in the same location as the electrical meter.

Insulation is an extremely important topic when it comes to sustainability and decreased heating and cooling costs.

In terms of insulation, there are a massive amount of choices that vary in terms of sustainability, cost, ease of insulation, and R-value (how effective something is at insulating).

Fiberglass insulation is a very popular insulation type. It is easy to install (as long as you wear gloves and mask, and cover your arms), can have a high R-value, and is relatively cost effective, but bad for the environment.

Foam insulation comes in a variety of different forms, but often needs to be sprayed in, which requires professional machinery and ventilation. Although it also can have a high R-value, it is not very environmentally friendly, and is only cost effective if you install it yourself. Rigid foam insulation is easier to install yourself, but has a lower R value than most insulation types.

A lot of more natural insulation methods such as wool and cork are also prevalent. Although they are highly sustainable, they are often extremely expensive. Each type has its own pros and cons concerning ease of installation and R-value.

Although there are many different types of insulation to chose from, it is important to choose one that will work in the climate you intend to have your house in. You can easily find the recommended R-values of various locations online. As a general rule, the ceiling will have insulation of a very high R-value, while the walls (both exterior and interior) will have somewhat lower R-values. If you wish to install a sub-structure for your floor or tear up the existing subfloor, you should also install additional insulation there.

On the ceiling, you can install a variety of different coverings.

I would recommend water resistant drywall for the interior of the bathroom because it is very resistant to water. This is installed by screwing or nailing to the joists and then covering the seams.

Another option is to use canvas to cover the insulation and joists. This option works best if you use rigid foam or another solid type of insulation. To install, you simply nail or staple canvas or another thick fabric, which can be obtained fairly cheaply from painters tarps, to the joists of the ceiling. This is very easy and cheap, and, depending on where you source your materials, can be very environmentally friendly. Using this can also decrease the weight of the container if you end up transporting it. However, it is a very uncommon ceiling material, especially in residential construction.

If you want to go the more traditional route, you can use drywall, a very common ceiling material. The process of installing it on the ceilings is similar to how you install it on the walls, which is detailed in step 18.

Wood can also be used to cover the ceiling, but I would recommend only using salvaged or second hand wood to decrease the impact on the environment and your budget.

For the walls, I would recommend using drywall in the main area, simply because it is one of the least expensive and simplest methods. To do this, you simply install the sheets of drywall, cutting them to the appropriate sizes so that they span the entire wall. Make sure to plan before cutting and account for all of the electrical boxes and rough plumbing you have installed. Install the sheets of drywall by nailing or screwing to the 2x4s. Then, spackle all of the seams and any other indents (such as those caused by the screws or nails). Afterwards, you need to sand the drywall (while wearing a respirator) to prepare it for primer.

If you wish to follow a more modern route, you can use plywood on the walls instead of drywall. I would highly recommend finished birch if you choose to do this. For installing plywood, simply cut the sheets to the appropriate sizes, and then screw or nail to the 2x4s.

Another option is using wood. This can be done in the form of paneling or, even better, repurposed wood! I know that I am saying this a lot, but that's because it is so cheap and environmentally friendly and stylish. For this method, just cover the wall in the board, going horizontally, and screw or nail each piece into the 2x4s.

For the bathroom, you can use cement board on the walls for behind the shower or any place that you plan to put tile on the walls. It is used very similarly to drywall, however, it is not sanded.

At the shower area, you should install hardibacker, or a similar material with high water resistance, to decrease the risk of mold.

This step is optional depending on the type of wall and ceiling you chose to install.

Drywall and cement board require this step.

To begin, put on at least one coat of primer. This will help to even out the texture of any painting and will seal the drywall.

Next, choose a good color that you will continue to like. Make sure to test this color out on your walls through samples. Paint looks different in the stores than it does in the home due to differences in light, among many things. Also make sure to chose a paint type that works well for the climate your house will be in, the activities you will be doing it, and the amount of mess you think you are going to be making.

Paint the required number of coats on your walls and ceiling (if applicable), making sure that you do so evenly.

Since you are doing this step before any of the trim, finish flooring, countertops, cabinets, or finish electrical are installed, you do not need to tape anything off. However, if you think you are going to make a mess, you should tape off the windows and exterior door.

Regardless of how the shipping container is being used, chances are that a nice floor would be an extremely helpful, if not necessary, addition to the space.

The floor should be waterproof, especially in the bathroom.

For the bathroom, I highly recommend tile since it is one of the most common and most waterproof materials for bathrooms. I also recommend tiling the entire container for sustainability even though it does come with the issue of being hard to install. However, tile is durable and easy to clean, which is a massive plus.

Other options include wood, vinyl, and any other commonly used flooring material. As long as it fits your needs, it will work just fine.

The kitchen and cabinets above the bed are Ikea cabinets. The total cost as designed is $1033.

I chose Ikea cabinets because they are very durable, especially for their low cost. In addition, Ikea is becoming a more sustainable brand, and therefore, the cabinets are also fairly sustainable.

However, you can easily purchase different cabinets and hardware from anywhere else, or even build your own if you so wish.

The links for all of the cabinets and hardware I used are below:

SEKTION Base cabinet with shelves, white/Häggeby white (1)

SEKTION Base cabinet w/3 fronts & 4 drawers, white Maximera/Häggeby white, 24x24x30 " (1)

KALLRÖR Handle, stainless steel, 8 3/8 " (6 packs of 2)

SEKTION Base cabinet for sink, white/Häggeby white, 24x24x30 " (1)

SEKTION Wall cabinet horizontal w/ push-op, white/Häggeby white, 24x15x15 " (4)

SEKTION Wall cabinet, white/Häggeby white, 24x15x30 " (2)

Install the kitchen and bathroom sink basins. Dry fit the sink before fully installing it. Make sure to caulk around the seams and edges to ensure that no water will be able to get into the cabinets below.

If the sink is an undermount sink, you must do this step before installing the countertops, as the sink sits below the countertop. However, if the sink is a drop in or vessel sink, you must install them after the countertop is installed.

There are a lot of choices for countertop material out there, ranging from synthetic to wood to stone.

I highly recommend stone or wood countertops, however, if this is not within your price point, there are many types of options that are not the stereotypical vinyl tops.

If you decide to use stone countertops, please get someone to help you install them, or better yet, pay someone to install them. They are extremely heavy and relatively fragile, especially in areas where they are less wide due to the cutouts for the sink.

The hot water heater is located under the bathroom sink and serves the bathroom sink, shower, and kitchen sink.

An instant electrical hot water heater is preferable because it decreases energy use, is far smaller, and means that you do not need to worry about running out of hot water.

In addition, if you use an electrical hot water heater, you do not need to use any type of natural gas, which means fewer connection, fewer bills, less construction, and greater sustainability.

For ease of installation, a prefabricated shower unit is the best way to go. Many units have different advantages to them, so chose one that works best for you.

To install the unit, clear the area and then follow the instructions provided with the unit. These vary, so even if you have experience with one shower unit, the process may not be the same. Make sure to have caulk on hand for waterproofing and sealing.

Another option is creating your own shower system through the use of waterproof materials (such as tile or a plastic panel) on the walls and a shower pan. This is much more likely to result in leakage, especially if you are not very experienced, so I urge caution if you wish to go this route.

At this point, you should have the most bulky items inside of the bathroom, which means that it is time to put on the door. Install this the same as the exterior door and choose a handle that appropriately matches the other fixtures and handles throughout the house.

There are a lot of different types of trim, and many of them are not necessary in a home. If you are on a tight budget or time frame, you only need to install baseboard trim and trim at the around the doors and windows. Make sure to measure at least twice before cutting your trim.

You can also install crown molding, especially if the seam between your celling and wall is not very aesthetic. This is purely an aesthetic piece, and can be left out and put in at any later date.

At this point, you can also install any other decorative trim that you choose.

At this point, you should install the faucets and any hardware that goes with it in the kitchen and bathroom. You may also want to install the shower head and handles at this point, depending on whether or not you did that in step 25.

There are actually a couple of options for toilets.

The most standard option is a flush toilet. This requires a connection to a sewage system or a septic system and tank. Although this option is the most conventional and easiest for most people to understand how to use, this is only suitable if you will not be moving your container home around a lot.

Another fairly publicized toilet type is the composting toilet. This toilet composts human waste, and often requires an electrical connection as it has a fan that helps with ventilation.

Other toilet options include incinerator toilets (they burn waste) and tank toilets (sort of like porta-potties).

The option that works best for you is the one you should install. If you do plan on converting the container into a store, restaurant, or other area where members of the general public would have access to the bathroom, I would highly recommend a flushing toilet.

Install outlet cover plates, light switch cover plates, and lighting fixtures.

The cover plates are super simple to install. Just screw them in.

The lighting fixtures may require some mounting. Make sure that you have picked them out and appropriately accounted for what you need prior to installing them.

Unless you are planning to rapidly change the purpose of the container home or are extremely susceptible to lighting fires, the fire safety systems for a single family residential unit should be fairly simple to install.

You will need two smoke alarms, one right outside of the bathroom and one near the bed area. These must be hardwired into the electrical system in new construction. You must also install at least one carbon dioxide detector in the main area, however, if you wish, you may also install a second one. In addition, you will need a fire extinguisher. This should be hung on the wall nearest the kitchen area. Make sure that you understand how to use and maintain all of the fire safety systems. They are really important and can save your life.

For the HVAC system, I will be using a mini-split system. These systems are very energy efficient, run solely off of electricity, and are very easy to install. To begin, calculate the BTUs required for your space. This depends a lot on the climate that your shipping container will be in. The average for this home ranges between 2-3,000 BTUs, especially with good insulation, however, it is always best to ere on the side of caution and purchase a unit with slightly more BTUs than you need.

The refrigerator should be simple to install. Just plug it in and slide it into the cavity underneath the countertop.

The cooktop may be either difficult or hard to install. I highly recommend a free standing induction cooktop. Although these only work with magnetic based metals (such as stainless steel or cast iron), they are far more energy efficient, somewhat safer (since they only heat up pots and pans), and easy to move around and stow away if necessary. However, electrical cooktops would also work well in this container.

A built in bed frame can be installed into the container if you wish to customize the storage you require. However, installing a built in bed frame can be very challenging, especially if you have not built any furniture prior to this experience. If you do not wish to install a built in bed, you can put in any queen, twin, or full bed into the space. The bed pictured in the floor plan is a queen sized bed frame.

Your house is almost completed, and it is time to move in any furniture you may want. I recommend a table with chairs or stools near the head of the bed.

To save money on this step, use furniture you already have or purchase something second hand. Make sure to furnish your space appropriately; using too much furniture or furniture that is too large will result in a cramped feeling space.

Decorate your new home by hanging up pictures, curtains, and other homely touches.

Move in everything you need to live, and enjoy your new home!

The window in front of the bed is 36 inches wide, and no electrical or plumbing systems run through the opening. If your needs change, you can convert the window opening into a door by removing the sill.

You can design an addition with either shipping containers or other construction methods. However, these additions will most likely decrease the portability of your home.

If you are no longer in need of a shipping container home, it is possible to turn this shipping container into a hangout area, pop-up shop or other similar structure.

To create a pop-up shop, begin by removing any personal effects and furniture from the container. Depending on the type of shop you wish to create, set up shelves to display products.

By installing an awning to the exterior of the container, you can also make exterior sitting or eating areas.

If you plan on creating a shop later on, please check with all local ordinances to ensure that you can acquire the business permits necessary for selling.

Whether or not you plan to change the container into something different in the future, it is always good to have an adaptable home that can change with the needs of a person.

This project required so much research. Designing and understanding how to build a house is way more difficult than I thought it would be. However, I did end up learning so much through this project and am super excited to be able to use all the knowledge I have gained in future endeavors.

I hope I was able to impart some of the knowledge I learned over these months.

Good luck on your project!!!