How to Make a Versatile Remote Control Receiver Box: for Vehicles and More!

Hey friends! As you know, I’m always working on creating open-source projects that are fun, functional, and accessible for everyone. Today, I’m super excited to share how to build a remote control receiver box with a fun twist! This project comes with a few different options, so you can customize it based on your needs and preferences. Whether you want to control a remote control vehicle, a golf cart, or something else entirely, I’ve got you covered. Let’s get started!

Before you begin, make sure you have the following supplies:

1. 5V to 36V buck converter: This will help step down the voltage to a level that’s safe for your components.
2. 4100E 2.4GHz 4-Channel Receiver and Remote: This is the heart of the project—your receiver and remote control combo.
3. 3D printed case: I’ll explain how to print and assemble this case to house all your components securely.
4. Optional: PWM to Analog Module: If you plan to use this with remote control vehicles that use a Curtis controller (like my golf cart), this will be useful. But it’s also optional and not necessary for all vehicles.
5. Hot glue gun: This is used to secure your components inside the case, making sure everything stays in place.

The first step is to print the case that will house all of your components. This part is incredibly easy and straightforward, especially if you have a 3D printer at home. For this project, I use the Ender V3 printer, but you can use any printer that can handle the size and dimensions of the case.

If you’re not planning on using the PWM to analog module, you can skip any extra space for that, but I recommend printing the case with enough room for wiring and other components. The design of the case is fairly simple, but it has enough space to keep everything organized. I printed the top of the case with 10% infill, which should be sufficient for stability while keeping the weight light. You can adjust the infill percentage based on your needs—if you want the case to be stronger, increase the infill percentage.

Make sure that the design includes enough space for the receiver, buck converter, and any optional components like the PWM module. The case should be snug enough to keep everything in place but leave enough room for airflow.

The electronics are the next big part of this project. I’ll explain the main components you'll need and some options depending on what you’re trying to build.

4100E 2.4GHz 4-Channel Receiver and Remote

This is your standard remote control system, and it’s perfect for a variety of remote-controlled projects, from cars to boats to airplanes and beyond. The receiver is small, reliable, and works well with most remote control systems.

PWM to Analog Module (Optional)

This module is optional, but it’s highly recommended if you’re planning to use this setup for controlling vehicles that use a Curtis controller, like my golf cart. The PWM to analog module converts the PWM signal from the receiver into an analog signal, allowing you to control speed, direction, and other parameters in more advanced systems. If you don’t need this feature, don’t worry—you can skip this module and just use the buck converter and receiver.

The buck converter is used to step down the voltage from your power source (which can range from 5V to 36V) to a safe and usable voltage for your components. It’s crucial to get the right voltage so that you don’t fry any of your electronics.

Once your case is printed and your components are ready, it’s time to assemble everything. This part is pretty simple, but it’s important to take your time to ensure that all the components fit properly and are securely mounted inside the case.

Start by placing the buck converter and receiver inside the printed case. The fit should be snug, but you want to make sure you have enough space for wires and connectors. I recommend using a hot glue gun to attach the components to the inside of the case. Glue them in place to prevent them from shifting around as you use the remote control system.

You might want to secure some parts with screws if they fit, but I didn’t have any specific screws for this project, so I just used a few spare screws I had lying around the house. If you don’t have screws that fit, glue works just as well, but be careful not to use too much so that the components don’t overheat or become difficult to remove later.

This is where the fun begins—wiring everything up! The wiring for this device is flexible and depends on how you want to set it up. I’ll walk you through my wiring plan, but feel free to adapt it as needed for your project.

In the image above, I’ve shown a general wiring diagram to guide you through the process, but remember, this is just a demonstration. The key to wiring is to make sure you understand the connections between the receiver, buck converter, and any additional components you’re using.

If you’re using the PWM to analog module, you’ll need to pay special attention to the input and output pins. I’ve designed the case with a hole on the side to allow wires to pass through, but I didn’t include this in the diagram. This makes it a little trickier to unplug the wires once they’re in place, so I recommend using tweezers or small pliers to help plug in the pins securely.

Keep in mind that your wiring will also depend on whether you're using the module or just the receiver and buck converter. The more components you add, the more wiring you’ll need to plan for.

Once everything is assembled and wired up, it’s time to test your remote control receiver box. First, make sure that everything is powered correctly. Check that the buck converter is providing the right voltage to your components. You should see the receiver light up and be ready to receive signals from the remote.

If you’re using the PWM to analog module, make sure that the analog signals are being sent properly to the motor controller or whatever you’re controlling. You may need to adjust some settings on your receiver or PWM module to get the correct response.

And that’s it—your remote control receiver box is all set up and ready to use! I’ve successfully used this project to remotely control a golf cart, but it’s versatile enough to work with other remote-controlled vehicles too.

This was such a fun project to put together, and I hope it inspires you to create your own open-source remote control systems. If you have any ideas for improving this design, I’d love to hear them! Feel free to share your thoughts or ask questions in the comments below.

Thanks for following along, and I look forward to seeing what you create. Until next time—peace!