Reloading Rifle Brass

Many people enjoy shooting, but with the price of ammunition today, who can afford it? With the right tools and a basic understanding of a rifles' mechanical structure, loading your own bullets can help you save money and create a more accurate load. For myself as a long range hunter and marksman, it is imperative that I know exactly what kind of powder, bullet, primer, and casing is being used and at what amounts to calculate the trajectory of the round. In this instructable we will go over the basic steps for reloading your already fired brass into usable and accurate ammunition.

The first step is to check each brass for any stress cracks or other deformations that could diminish the safety of the round upon reloading.

Insert the used brass into the bullet press and, using a punch die, gently remove the primer from the base of the shell.

Using the media of your choice and a tumbler, tumble the bass until all of the oxidation and powder residue is removed. The length of this step depends on how dirty the case is.

After your brass is all shiny and free of oxidation, turn off the tumbler and remove your brass. (Warning: Be sure that all of the tumbling media is removed from the inside of the brass and primer seat. Failure to do so will result in an either an improper seating of bullet components or an unpredictable discharge.)

Using a micrometer or another accurate gauge, measure the length of each case to determine the stretch of the brass when it was fired.

Using a neck turning tool re-size the case to factory specifications. Every brand and caliber will be different so check with your reloading manual or a manufacturer's website.

The following steps will require your brass to be run through the press at least two times each, so using an old, clean cloth coat the outside of the brass in case lube (be sure that it stays on the outside of the brass).

Put a primer into the receiver on the bullet press and load the case into the holder. pull down on the handle to set the primer into the slot on the case. Inspect it to make sure it has seated all the way.

Using a deburring tool, smooth out the neck of the brass where it was turned to length earlier. This will insure a smooth seating of the bullet.

Set your powder scale, a scale that measures in grains and is accurate to one-thousandth of a grain, on an open, level surface and calibrate it as accurately as possible.

Using a powder and load size that is safe for your cartridge, reference your reloading manual or manufacturer for details, slowly pour the powder into the scales weighing bowl until you have reached EXACTLY the amount intended. It could cause serious injury to the user or the firearm if too much powder is added.

With the help of a small funnel, slowly pour all of the powder from the scale's bowl into the primed brass.

Unscrew the punch die from the top of the bullet press and replace it with a bullet seating die.

Insert the primed and powder filled brass into the bullet press and carefully set the bullet on top vertically with the boat tail pointing toward the inside of the casing (toward the powder) and pull the leaver on the press. This will seat the bullet firmly into the brass.

Inspect all mating surfaces for any stretching or scraping as this will cause inaccuracy. Check the seating of the bullet and the seating of the primer again to make sure everything is sealed for the longevity of powder life.

Once a bullet has been made it is best to store it in a protective case and in a place that has a mild temperature of about 65 degrees Fahrenheit and is void of moisture.

For those of us that take hunting and shooting accuracy seriously there is no better way of creating a predictable environment than to make the bullets yourself. I see it as a way to keep the quality control to a standard that I demand from my bullets. With the rising cost of brass and other materials that are required for making bullets, it also makes it easier on the wallet to go out and practice for a weekend. Good luck to all aspiring marksmen!