Reimagining the Classic Mad Science Lab: Using a 1970's Funk Rock Band As a Design Theme (Pt I)

Part I of this three-part installment pushes artistic design boundaries by describing the construction of a miniature mad science lab from recyclables that is powered by a battery-operated, high voltage (HV) source. The fictional universe created by the Parliament-Funkadelic band inspired a reimagination of the electrical theatrics from the classic Frankenstein film of 1931. The lab is staged under a removable transparent dome that features miniature lightning bolts jumping an electrode gap and a humanoid form resting on a platform waiting to be animated. The mad scientist, Dr Funkenstein operates a control panel. The lab is illuminated from above by multiple LEDs.

This project commemorates the upcoming 50th anniversary of the band's cover art from their album, The Clones of Dr. Funkenstein. Cardboard cutouts in the likeness of musical innovator and Rock and Roll Hall of Fame member, George Clinton replace Dr. Frankenstein and his creation on a miniaturized stage. The first part concludes with the use of a BBQ grill igniter to test the concept of generating HV effects on a dollhouse scale before advancing to a considerably larger voltage source.

Part II focuses on the renovation and artistic reinterpretation of a vintage Rayotron consisting of a floor-standing Van de Graaff (VdG) generator that produces low-risk, static electricity. Part III concludes by detailing the steps for displaying and powering your lab from inside of the unit's hollow terminal. A bluetooth-enabled sound source completes the transformation of the generator into a display platform for scientific art with a Funk Rock design theme.

Essential Construction Materials

1. 1 cm diameter, mirrored rhinestones with flat backs (18)
2. Ceiling light w/multiple LEDs; use AAA battery-powered puck light (1)
3. Dollhouse flowerpots for electrode holders (2)
4. Glues: cyanoacrylate (CA), epoxy, and white
5. HV power source; use AA battery-powered BBQ grill igniter (1)
6. Heat shrink tubing
7. Hook & loop strips cut to appropriate size
8. Metal globes from old lamp finials for electrode terminals; 1/4" dia (2)
9. Misc metal and nylon hardware
10. Popsicle sticks
11. Round cardboard takeout container w/clear dome cover
12. Scrap cardboard, plastic, or wood for props, cutout characters, etc.
13. Switch: low voltage, On-Off function (1)
14. Stage flooring pattern (1)
15. Tape (metallic, blue or clear)

Tools

1. Clear tape
2. Colored marker pens
3. Electric drill
4. Hobby knife
5. Paper punch
6. Protractor
7. Sandpaper (med & fine grade)
8. Scissors
9. Contact adhesive
10. Spray paint
11. Wire crimper

The lab aimed for a miniature (1:60) design. The floor tiling pattern was rendered using MicroSoft Paint. As indicated on the floor plan, a metal worktable is positioned directly across from the Power Control Terminal (PCT) operated by Dr Funkenstein. A pair of electrodes is bolted to the floor between these stagings. The clone on a reanimating table in front of the electrodes is the focal point. Sparks supplied by the BBQ igniter mounted beneath the floor enhance the illusion of an electrifying experiment. The interior is illuminated by a ceiling-mounted LED puck light.

I recommend a sturdy take-out container from Honeygrow for the lab stage. (In Pt II, the lab rests in the bottom half of a Van de Graaff generator's hollow terminal as shown.) Invert the container and trim cover to fit inside the ~5 mm lip height. Sand cover edge evenly on a flat surface until level and cover top is parallel to lab floor. An optional metal support ring cut from the top of a cardboard snack container fits neatly in the recessed circle of the cover. Initially, I used metallic copper spray paint but repainted the ring black for a more consistent finish. Apply several drops of CA to hold the ring in place, then cut a 6 cm hole in the cover to allow for air circulation when the gap is energized.

Next, paint the container. I used leftover primer from another project before applying a coat of high-gloss Aqua paint. I used a protractor to mark locations for 18 mirrored rhinestones glued at 20-degree intervals around the ring to simulate floor lighting from the 1970s disco era. The thickness of a popsicle stick served as a spacer to make a fixed gap between the edge of the rhinestones and the lip of the base. The gap allowed the perimeter signage, described in the following step, and dome cover to fit snuggly on the base. I cut out the flooring pattern, then applied spray adhesive to attach it to the base.

Use a decorative font to create a signage strip with a desired message. Although not historically accurate, I selected 14-point, Bauhaus 93 from the MS Word gallery because of its bold, expressive vibe. Print and cut strip to appropriate size so it fits around inside lip of base. I designed the sign in two, equal-length segments so that each half of the sign extended along left and right perimeters of the base. I decorated the sigh with circles punched from metallic tape. Signage should be visible when dome is placed over lab and viewed from above or on either side of the lab's focal point. Use white glue to attach strips to inner lip of base, then smooth wrinkles with a popsicle stick.

This step describes the assembly of the electrodes, PCT, reanimating platform, and metal work table. The main challenge with incorporating HV on a dollhouse scale was electrical arcing.

1. Electrodes - Insert metal #8-32 x 1-1/2" screw through color-coded ring lug and wood flowerpot. Initially, I used a metal lock washer and brass hex nut to secure the electrodes to the floor, but had to replace that hardware with nylon because of arcing. Use nylon hex nut to secure nylon washer firmly against discharge globe. Repeat these steps to assemble 2nd electrode. I brush painted the pots red.

1. PCT - A piece of scrap wood sanded to about 45 deg supports a 1 cm x 2 cm instrument console cut from a popsicle stick. I rendered a user interface using MS Paint that is glued on the console. Glue a 1/8" diameter wood dowel to the base of the support column as a peg that will anchor this prop to a hole in the lab floor. I painted the column and console edges with silver paint.

1. Platform - This piece of scrap plastic had no identifying markings, but made a perfect platform for the clone; no work required!

1. Work Table - I found a metal disc attached to a machine screw that looked like a table. I added a metal washer at the base and an optional sleeve cut from aluminum tubing to hide the screw that was welded to the disc.

A practical way to construct a stable stage is to identify props on an approximately 7 cm x 11 cm base made from popsicle sticks glued side-to-side, then drill out holes for anchoring everything in place. Drill 4 electrode mounting holes along a straight line as shown to allow for spark gap adjustments. Next, use base as a template to drill holes through lab floor. Mount base under flooring with 4 nylon machine screws and remount props in holes. The soft nylon screws reduce stress on popsicle sticks to reduce possibility of cracking. Mount On-Off switch on sidewall of lab stage using an support ring made of nylon or cut from cardboard.

Chatgpt sketched a rough likeness of George Clinton as Dr Funkenstein and as his clone. I printed a reduced size of the images, glued each one to stiff cardboard, then cut them out. A folded tab at the base of the mad doctor enabled him to stand upright at the control panel. The clone is glued directly on the platform.

A small igniter from a discarded BBQ generated this snappy, 12 kV spark from a single 1.5V AA battery! 😲 Crimp igniter output wires to ring connectors of electrodes, then insulate bare metal connections with heat shrink tubing. Also, insulate HV output wires from igniter. Connect battery wires to On-Off switch.

I pressed the switch and... no sparks. Decreasing gap to the minimum distance of 1.5 cm didn't fix the problem (Caution: power must be off before making adjustments! ).

Here is an easy work-around to produce sparks: use metal tape to make breakout points for the discharge globes. Stick a piece of tape on each nylon collar. These points allow sparks to jump the gap.

A better solution is to remove the micro xenon flash tube (2 cm in length) from an old Instamatic camera or purchase one here. Place the tube across the gap so it rests on the nylon collars. Check that each flash tube electrode is as close as possible to a discharge globe, or hardwire each electrode to the globe's support screw. Use CA to secure tube to the collars.

Plug unused set of electrode mounting holes with a wood dowel and replace plastic dome. Puck light rests on top of dome, or it can be attached with hook and loop strips. Miniature lightning bolts will illuminate the flash tube above the clone's head when the igniter is switched on.

For anyone who desires a standalone lab, epoxy igniter to underside of popsicle base and the project ends here. Otherwise, use tape to temporarily hold igniter in place. The project continues in Part II with details on renovating a Rayotron of nearly 500 kV, which will (hopefully!) power the lab in Part III...