Reclaimed Barn Wood Table

Small end table. I noticed a new home subdivision was going in. They were tearing down an old dilapidated barn. I simply asked for a couple pieces of the wood, and they obliged. If barn wood is elusive, scrap wood should work equally as well. Or if you have a new subdivision going in, they throw away ample wood, on a daily basis.

Super simple and (mostly) free supplies. The total cost was simply the glue, screws, brad nails and electricity to make it....all estimated less than $1.

1. Tree branch (or multiple branches) to serve as the FOUR legs.
2. Reclaimed barn wood, in my case a single piece 3 feet long by 11-1/2" wide.
3. Wood glue
4. 18 gauge 2" brad nails
5. Four 1.25" wood screws (to hold flat top to the table)
6. Small scrap wood (to mount top). I used 1x2 14" long.
7. Safety Glasses

Put on your safety glasses. Rough cut the tree branches into legs. Don't worry about getting them perfectly the same length, we'll do that later.

I cut mine 18" long. TIP: take an extra small piece and place it on top of the branch. Why? Fresh branches are full of moisture and will dry out. If the ends dry out too fast, the branch can crack. Adding this extra piece on top slows down the drying process to avoid cracking the branch.

Set aside and let dry. If fresh cut branches, give them some time to dry, in my case two weeks. This is not necessary for a downed tree that has naturally dried.

The Apron is the framing that connects the legs to the top. I used barn wood and cut the following sizes:

TWO 3" tall by 9" long - for the side aprons.

TWO 3" tall by 12" long - for the front & rear apron.

Note: I included a look-ahead photo to see the apron (the horizontal pieces that attach to the legs).

The goal here is to notch out an area to mount the apron. We need a notch on two sides that are close to 90 degrees.

I used a handsaw to cut the branch log vertically, 3" deep.

I then used my mitre saw to cross-cut and remove the small notch.

Finally, you should have FOUR legs similar to the picture above, that will allow us to later attach the apron.

TIP: If your branch logs are very wet, ie you still see sap emitting, it would be a good idea to continue to let dry.

We will build the legs and apron inverted. By doing this upside down, this will be our starting point to ensure the table top is level. Glue branch log legs to the apron, and brad nail using 2" 18 gauge brad nails. You can substitute many options for the brad nails such as screws (but drill a pilot hole prior) or dowels, etc. Don't gorget your safety glasses.

Do your best to ensure the legs are mostly straight and vertical. They don't have to be perfect. That is the nice thing about this table, the roughness is part of the appeal.

TIP: I place scrap pieces of paper (or power towels) under the glue joints, to avoid gluing the table to my workbench.

Set aside and dry overnight.

Turn the table right side up and remove the paper that might be glued to the legs.

Remember your safety glasses. Now reinforce the legs and apron with 18 gauge 2" brad nails. Nail the edges of the apron together, and also nail through the apron into the legs.

It is very challenging to get the rough cut branch legs to perfect length, or perfectly square so the table does not rock.

Using a table saw, cut the legs on one side. Then flip over and cut the remaining two legs. Go nice and slow while firmly holding onto the leg & apron assembly. Be sure to keep the right side up tight against the fence as the second picture illustrates.

TIP: Always use a saw blade guard. Mine is removed for photos only.

All that remains is the table top.

Using scrap wood, attach two pieces of wood that will allow us to mount the top, from underneath. We don't want screws showing on the top of the table, so we will do this from underneath.

I used a 1x2 cut 7" long, with 45 degree angled on both ends.

Attach with glue and 2", 18-gauge brad nails.

Lay the leg & apron assembly on the wood and mark the size to cut the top.

TIP: Pencil marks are difficult to see on old barn wood, so use masking tape to see your pencil mark.

The barn wood was naturally 11-1/2" wide, so I just needed to cut the length. My length was 13-1/2" long.

Do not glue the top to the leg & apron assembly. We want the top to expand and contract naturally.

Invert the table. Drill four pilot holes from the underside of the table. I used a 1/8" drill bit.

Drive the FOUR screws into the top, from the underneath so the screws are not visible.

TIP: Drive the screws in ~ 80% with a drill and finish up the remaining 20% with a hand screwdriver...this is to help ensure we don't split the braces, or the top.

Allow the glue (from the Top Mounting Brace) to dry overnight.

Your table is now ready for use.

Note: This is my first Instructable, as a way to say thanks to everyone prior for helping me via their Instructables.