REFURBISHED/ RE-PURPOSED VINTAGE COOLER

This vintage cooler’s cooling days were over. Built in 1966, according to the manufacturer’s stamp, the entire bottom was rusted and full of pin holes. The liner was cracked. The exterior still looked good and it had an aged patina that just needed some care. I decided to restore it to near original condition but re-purpose it as an extra seat by the fireplace and storage box for kindling. Many may protest that I have destroyed its antique value but I feel that I have kept the look intact and made it into something useful. Previously, I had re-built another cooler as a stereo. Check out that Instructable here: https://www.instructables.com/VINTAGE-COOLER-STEREO/

Materials and Tools

NOTE: All coolers are different so no specific measurements are given.

For disassembly:

WD-40

Vise Grips

Socket wrench of appropriate size

Angle Grinder with cutting disk

Small pry bar

For finish restoration:

Extra fine steel wool

Automotive rubbing compound

Cloths

Matte finish clear spray lacquer

For re- assembly:

Wood for floor, interior and lid/ seat reinforcement- I used some left over T&G flooring and 1 x 10” pine. 1/8” hardboard for shims.

Brad nailer and 1, 1/4 “ brads

Mitre saw

Panel saw with guide or table saw

1/2” wood screws

1,1/2” wood screws

Drill with 1/16” bit and screwdriver bit to match screws.

Large stick- on floor protectors

Gorilla glue

Spray the drain plug with WD-40 a day before to let it soak in.

Use the Vise Grips and socket wrench to remove the plug.

The liner should lift out but may need some careful prying around the top edge.

Remove the insulation.

The lid liner and insulation should just pop out with a small pry bar.

Mark a line about 1” inside the bottom edges of the cooler.

Cut out the bottom with the angle grinder and remove. Wear safety glasses!

Rub down any surface rust with the steel wool.

Use a cloth and the rubbing compound over the entire surface. This should brighten up the original colour. Buff off any remaining compound.

Clean the entire surface then spray with two coats of lacquer.

Cut flooring material with the mitre saw to fit just inside the cooler length.

Drill holes in the metal bottom edge to coincide with the flooring locations

Attach the flooring with 1/2” screws through the bottom. 

Attach the floor protectors to the four corners.

NOTE: The box must protrude about 3/16” above the top edge of the cooler as the metal walls will not support the weight of someone sitting on it, however, the box and floor will.

Cut the 2 end pine pieces to the inside height + 3/16” and a width slightly less than the inside cooler width minus the thickness of the 2 sides.

Cut the side material to a length slightly less than the length of the cooler.

Nail the sides to the ends.

Fit the box inside the cooler. Use 1, 1/2” screws through the bottom to attach it permanently. 

Cut wood material to fit just inside the lid filling the gap where the insulation was. 

The metal lid will not support weight so you may have to shim at the high centre point with some thin material to keep the lid from denting.

Test fit that the wood filler sits on the top edge of the interior box so that any weight is transferred to it. Make sure the latching mechanism works and the top feels solid when locked into place. ( You should feel some tension as you latch the lid.) If it is loose, nail some thin material to the top edge of the box to fill the gap.

Glue the wood and the shim material to the inside of the lid using Gorilla glue. Put some weight on it and let it dry. 

Put the lid back on and enjoy.