Project HomeBound: Off the Streets, Into Hope

Bayview-Hunters Point stands at a critical crossroads in San Francisco’s ongoing struggle with homelessness. This historically marginalized neighborhood has seen a significant rise in unsheltered residents over recent years, many of whom live in vulnerable conditions without safe or stable housing. The area’s abundance of available land compared to denser neighborhoods presents a unique opportunity — a chance to create a thoughtfully designed shelter that offers not only protection but also dignity and space to heal.

Homelessness in Bayview-Hunters Point is not just a statistic; it represents real people with stories of hardship, resilience, and hope. Many have been displaced by economic pressures, systemic inequities, or personal crises. Yet, the lack of safe, welcoming spaces only deepens their struggle, making it harder to rebuild their lives and regain stability.

Designing a multi-person shelter here that includes a yard or outdoor area goes beyond providing a roof overhead. It offers a sanctuary where residents can breathe fresh air, connect with nature, and find moments of peace amid the chaos. In a place where many have been forced into overcrowded, temporary shelters or street encampments, having a dedicated space to gather, reflect, and grow is a profound gift.

This project is a commitment to the Bayview-Hunters Point community — to honor their dignity, address urgent needs, and contribute to healing. By creating a shelter that balances safety, privacy, and open space, we can provide a foundation for hope and transformation. It’s a step toward ensuring that no one in this community has to face homelessness alone or without the space to recover and thrive.

Materials:

1. PLA, Dark Brown, Beige, Reddish Brown
2. Hot Glue
3. Grass Powder
4. Foam Core
5. Spray Glue
6. Miniature Stick-On Plants

Software:

1. Tinkercad
2. Slicing Software For 3D Printing
3. Floorplanner

Tools:

1. Hot Glue Gun
2. 3D Printer
3. Spray Glue AEROSOL Canister

Image Source: SF.gov

Bayview-Hunters Point was selected as the location for this shelter project because it is a community facing significant challenges related to homelessness and housing insecurity. This neighborhood has experienced a marked increase in the number of unsheltered individuals and families who lack access to safe, stable housing. Economic hardship, limited affordable housing options, and systemic inequalities have all contributed to the urgency of providing effective and compassionate shelter solutions in this area.

The neighborhood’s deep need for supportive housing makes it an essential place to focus efforts aimed at ending homelessness. Residents here often face multiple barriers to stability, including limited resources, lack of access to healthcare, and economic displacement. Establishing a shelter in Bayview-Hunters Point offers the potential to provide vulnerable individuals with a safe, dignified place to begin rebuilding their lives.

In addition to addressing immediate shelter needs, this project seeks to contribute to the long-term resilience of the community. By creating a space that prioritizes safety, privacy, and support, the shelter can serve as a foundation for recovery and self-sufficiency. The project is a commitment to honoring the humanity of those experiencing homelessness, recognizing that every person deserves respect and the opportunity to regain stability.

Choosing Bayview-Hunters Point also reflects a dedication to equity and justice. This neighborhood has historically been underserved and disproportionately affected by economic and environmental challenges. Investing in a shelter here is a way to bring needed resources and hope directly to a community that has been overlooked for too long.

Ultimately, this shelter is intended to be more than just a place to sleep; it is a vital step toward restoring dignity, safety, and hope for individuals who have been displaced and marginalized. Bayview-Hunters Point offers the space and the community readiness necessary to support a project that can make a meaningful, lasting impact on the lives of its residents.

Image Source: Google Maps

Bayview-Hunters Point is situated in the southeastern corner of San Francisco, bordered by the San Francisco Bay to the east and south, and neighborhoods such as Visitacion Valley and Candlestick Point to the south and west. This area is known for its mix of industrial zones, residential neighborhoods, and open spaces. Its waterfront location offers expansive views of the bay and access to large parcels of land that are less dense compared to other parts of the city.

During my visit to Bayview-Hunters Point, I traveled along major streets like Third Street and the surrounding blocks, where I saw clusters of people living without permanent shelter. The area features a patchwork of residential streets and industrial sites, which sometimes creates isolated pockets where homelessness becomes more visible and acute. Walking through these streets, I noticed how the neighborhood’s geography — with its mix of open spaces and industrial land — has created places where encampments have formed, often out of public sight but very real to those living there.

The neighborhood’s relative distance from San Francisco’s downtown core means it has faced unique challenges, including fewer resources and services nearby compared to other neighborhoods. My firsthand experience of the area — seeing both its challenges and its potential — highlighted the need for a shelter that not only provides immediate housing but also thoughtfully integrates into the neighborhood’s fabric.

Being there in person, I could feel the urgency and the human stories behind the statistics. This direct encounter reinforced my commitment to designing a shelter project that addresses these needs in a practical, compassionate way, close to where I live and where many vulnerable people are in desperate need of support.

Image Source: FoundSF

Bayview-Hunters Point is a historically significant neighborhood in southeastern San Francisco with a complex and often challenging history that has contributed to its current socioeconomic struggles.

Originally, Bayview and Hunters Point were industrial and shipbuilding hubs, particularly during World War II, when the Hunters Point Naval Shipyard was a major center for ship construction and repair. The area attracted many workers, especially African American families migrating from the South during the Great Migration, seeking employment opportunities in the booming wartime industries. This influx shaped the neighborhood’s cultural identity, making it a center for Black communities in San Francisco.

However, after the war, the shipyard and other industrial operations declined significantly. The closure of the Hunters Point Naval Shipyard in the 1970s led to widespread job loss and economic downturn. This industrial decline left a vacuum in employment opportunities, which, combined with systemic racism and discriminatory housing policies, contributed to persistent poverty in the area.

Bayview-Hunters Point also faced environmental injustices. Decades of industrial activity and inadequate regulation resulted in significant pollution and contamination, including toxic waste sites and poor air quality. These environmental burdens have had long-term health impacts on residents and further hindered investment and development in the neighborhood.

Additionally, the area has suffered from underinvestment in public services such as schools, healthcare, and transportation. Limited access to quality education and jobs, along with higher rates of crime and social challenges, have perpetuated cycles of poverty and marginalization.

In recent years, there have been efforts to revitalize Bayview-Hunters Point through redevelopment projects, environmental cleanup, and community initiatives aimed at improving housing and economic opportunities. However, challenges remain, and the neighborhood continues to struggle with inequalities rooted in its industrial past, environmental damage, and systemic social issues.

Understanding this history helps explain why Bayview-Hunters Point is one of San Francisco’s most underserved and economically challenged neighborhoods, highlighting the importance of targeted investment and community-focused development to address long-standing disparities.

Image Source: Bay Area Council Economic Institute

Bayview-Hunters Point, located in the southeastern part of San Francisco, faces one of the city’s most urgent homelessness challenges. According to the 2024 Point-in-Time Count, the area has experienced a 47% increase in homelessness since 2022. While Bayview-Hunters Point accounts for nearly 18% of San Francisco’s homeless population, it has a disproportionately low number of shelter and supportive housing beds compared to other parts of the city.

This sharp rise in homelessness highlights deep economic challenges, including rising housing costs, limited affordable housing options, and systemic inequities that contribute to housing insecurity. Many individuals and families in the area live without safe or stable housing, often in makeshift shelters or vehicles.

The increasing numbers are a clear warning sign — if immediate and effective action is not taken, homelessness in Bayview-Hunters Point could spiral out of control, overwhelming existing resources and creating even more urgent humanitarian and public health crises. The current statistics underscore the critical need for expanded shelter capacity and supportive housing solutions to prevent this predicted escalation.

Developing new, thoughtfully designed shelters in Bayview-Hunters Point is essential to provide safer, more dignified housing options. This project aims to be part of the proactive response needed to address the growing crisis, offering stability and hope before the situation worsens beyond manageable levels.

Taking action now not only addresses immediate needs but also helps lay the groundwork for long-term solutions that can reduce homelessness and support recovery in this vulnerable community.

Image Source: NPR

To directly address the growing homelessness crisis in Bayview-Hunters Point, this initiative proposes creating a network of shelters designed to provide safe, dignified, and supportive housing options throughout the neighborhood. These shelters aim to offer much more than just a place to sleep—they are intended to be welcoming environments where individuals and families can begin to rebuild their lives with hope and stability.

A key feature of this approach is the integration of thoughtfully designed outdoor spaces. Many existing shelters lack access to fresh air or any kind of private or communal outdoor areas, which can be detrimental to residents’ physical and mental health. Including outdoor spaces provides a safe area for residents to relax, socialize, and engage in activities, helping to reduce stress and combat the isolation often experienced by those facing homelessness.

Equally important is the focus on treating residents with dignity and respect by offering comprehensive support services. Access to healthcare, mental health counseling, substance use treatment, job training, and personalized case management will be integral parts of the shelter experience. These services aim to address the root causes of homelessness and empower residents to transition successfully into permanent housing and stable employment.

This project is designed to be community-centered and sustainable, working in collaboration with local organizations and stakeholders to ensure that the shelters truly meet the unique needs of Bayview-Hunters Point residents. By establishing multiple shelter locations, resources can be distributed throughout the neighborhood, helping to foster stronger support networks and avoid overburdening any single area.

Ultimately, this effort is about more than providing temporary refuge—it’s about restoring hope and creating real opportunities for change. Acting now to bring people off the streets and into safe, supportive environments is crucial before homelessness reaches even more unmanageable levels in the neighborhood. The goal is to create spaces where people feel valued, supported, and equipped to rebuild their lives with dignity.

This compassionate response reflects a deep commitment to addressing homelessness with urgency and humanity, recognizing that everyone deserves a safe place to call home and the chance to move forward with hope.

Image Source: Medium

In San Francisco, zoning divides the city into different categories based on allowed uses, such as residential, commercial, industrial, and public or institutional zones. Residential zones, like RH (Residential House) or RM (Residential Multi-family), mainly focus on housing but can allow social service facilities such as homeless shelters with a Conditional Use Permit, which means I must get city approval to ensure the shelter fits the neighborhood’s character and meets safety and operational standards. Commercial and mixed-use zones are often more flexible, sometimes permitting shelters as a regular use because they encourage community services alongside housing and businesses. Industrial zones, particularly light industrial (M-1), are intended for manufacturing or warehousing, but in some cases, these areas can be adapted for shelters with special permits or variances. Public and institutional zones are generally set aside for community-serving facilities like schools or government offices, and shelters are often permitted there with fewer hurdles. For my shelter project, which will likely be in a mix of residential and light industrial zones, I will need to carefully navigate the permitting process, including Conditional Use Permits and zoning compliance, to make sure the shelter is legally allowed and designed to serve its residents safely and respectfully.

Image Source: Google Maps

The specific location I have chosen is a parcel of approximately 8,000 square feet situated near the intersection of Jennings Street and Oakdale Avenue. This site stands out due to its size and zoning characteristics, which together create a strong foundation for a shelter project that includes both indoor living spaces and much-needed outdoor communal areas. The 8,000-square-foot lot provides enough room to thoughtfully design a facility that prioritizes residents' comfort and well-being, allowing space for personal living quarters as well as outdoor areas where individuals can spend time safely and engage in recreational or therapeutic activities.

Zoning in this area is primarily a mix of residential (RH-1) and light industrial (M-1). The residential zoning means that developing a shelter will require securing a Conditional Use Permit (CUP), which involves working closely with city planning authorities to ensure that the project aligns with community standards and addresses important concerns such as safety, noise control, and environmental impact. The CUP process includes community input and city review to balance the needs of shelter residents with the neighborhood’s character. The nearby light industrial zoning provides additional flexibility, potentially allowing for the adaptive reuse of existing structures or the construction of new buildings designed specifically for shelter use, subject to appropriate permits or variances.

Importantly, this location benefits from proximity to multiple Muni bus lines, making it highly accessible for shelter residents who may rely on public transit to reach healthcare, employment, social services, and other critical resources throughout the city. This transit access is essential for supporting residents’ independence and improving their chances for long-term stability.

The site’s placement also offers opportunities for collaboration with local service providers and community organizations focused on supporting vulnerable populations, which can enhance the overall effectiveness of the shelter through partnerships and resource sharing.

In sum, the chosen location near Jennings and Oakdale provides a practical and strategic balance of adequate space, zoning flexibility, transit access, and community context. These factors combine to make it a strong candidate for a shelter project that seeks not only to provide immediate housing but also to create an environment that fosters dignity, support, and hope for individuals experiencing homelessness.

Image Source: New York Times

Fire safety is a critical aspect of designing and operating a homeless shelter to ensure the protection of all residents and staff. For a shelter, the building must comply with the California Building Code (CBC) and the San Francisco Fire Code, which set strict standards to prevent fires and enable safe evacuation if a fire occurs. Key requirements include installing an automatic sprinkler system throughout the building to quickly suppress fires before they can spread. Fire alarms and smoke detectors must be placed in all living areas, common rooms, and corridors to provide early warning to everyone inside.

The shelter’s design must also include clearly marked, unobstructed emergency exits that allow residents to evacuate quickly and safely. Exit routes should be well-lit and meet minimum width requirements to accommodate people with limited mobility or disabilities, following guidelines set by the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Fire-rated walls and doors may be required to contain fires and prevent them from spreading between different sections of the shelter.

In addition to physical building features, the shelter must have a fire safety plan that includes regular evacuation drills, staff training, and maintenance of fire protection equipment. Because shelters house vulnerable populations, these safety measures are especially important to reduce risks and provide a secure environment. Working closely with the San Francisco Fire Department during the planning and permitting stages ensures that all fire safety regulations are met and that the shelter is prepared for emergencies.

Image Source: NMEDA

Accessibility is a fundamental part of designing a shelter that is safe and welcoming for all residents, including people with disabilities. The shelter must comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) as well as California’s Title 24 Accessibility Standards, which ensure that buildings are accessible to individuals with a wide range of physical needs. This means entrances, pathways, and common areas must be designed without barriers, such as steps or narrow doorways, so residents using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids can easily move throughout the space.

Inside the shelter, bedrooms and bathrooms must include accessible features like wider doorways, grab bars, roll-in showers, and sinks at appropriate heights. Hallways and corridors need to be wide enough to accommodate mobility devices and allow for smooth navigation. In outdoor communal spaces, pathways should be firm, stable, and slip-resistant, with ramps or gentle slopes replacing stairs.

In addition to physical features, accessibility also covers clear signage with large print and braille to assist residents with visual impairments. Emergency alarms must have both audible and visual signals to alert all residents, including those who are deaf or hard of hearing.

Meeting these accessibility standards is not only a legal requirement but also essential for creating an inclusive environment where all residents feel safe and supported. Throughout the design and construction process, I will coordinate with accessibility consultants and comply with all relevant codes to ensure the shelter meets or exceeds these standards.

Image Source: Habitus Living

A green roof on the real-life version of this shelter would serve as a powerful combination of practical function and thoughtful, human-centered design. Beyond just being a roof, it would become a living part of the building—a system that actively improves the environment for the people living inside and the community around it. Functionally, the green roof would help regulate temperature inside the shelter. In hot weather, the plants and soil would absorb sunlight, preventing the roof from heating up like a regular surface would. That means the interior of the shelter would stay cooler naturally, reducing the need for fans or air conditioning. In cold weather, the layers of soil and vegetation would provide extra insulation, helping to trap warmth inside and lower heating costs. It’s like giving the building a living blanket that works year-round to make the space more comfortable.

But temperature control is only part of it. The green roof would also play an important role in managing rainwater. Instead of rain just running off the roof and potentially causing flooding or erosion around the building, the plants and soil would soak up a lot of that water. This helps slow down runoff into storm drains, making the whole area more environmentally friendly and flood-resistant. And by absorbing water, the roof also reduces the risk of leaks or water damage over time.

More importantly, though, the green roof would change how the shelter feels. Many temporary shelters focus only on function, not on how the space makes people feel emotionally. Including plants and greenery would help break that pattern. Nature has a calming, healing effect on people. For individuals who’ve spent time without stable housing—often living in harsh, urban, or crowded environments—having even a small connection to nature can make a huge difference. It signals care, beauty, and dignity. It reminds people that they deserve more than just a roof over their head; they deserve a home. By adding a green roof, this shelter wouldn’t just provide physical protection—it would send a message that the people living inside matter, and that their environment should reflect that respect.

To start designing the shelter, I first created the lot in Floorplanner using the correct real-world dimensions. The total area I was working with was 8,000 square feet, but since I find metric units easier to work with for design and layout, I converted the area into square meters. Knowing that 1 square meter equals approximately 10.76 square feet, I divided 8,000 by 10.76, which gave me about 743 square meters.

Because I wanted the lot to be square-shaped for clarity and simplicity in the design, I then calculated the length of each side by taking the square root of 743. That gave me a side length of approximately 27.26 meters. Once I had that number, I adjusted the settings in Floorplanner to switch the unit of measurement from feet to meters so that I could build everything using metric dimensions.

With the units set to meters, I used the drawing tools to manually create a square lot, carefully pulling the edges out until each side measured as close to 27.26 meters as possible. I used the on-screen rulers and guides to get the dimensions right, making sure the total area would match the intended 743 square meters.

This step was essential because it formed the foundation for the rest of the design. Having the lot accurately represented in scale gave me a clear and proportional space to begin planning out the shelter’s rooms, circulation areas, and outdoor zones. It also ensured that my entire design would remain realistic and grounded in actual physical space throughout the process.

After establishing the 27.26 by 27.26 meter lot in Floorplanner, I moved on to outlining the building footprint within it. I intentionally placed the structure well inside the boundaries of the lot, leaving a wide buffer of open space on all sides. This setback created room for outdoor areas like green space, walkways, and breathing room between the building and the lot lines.

Using Floorplanner’s wall tool, I drew the outline of the building as a clean, simple rectangle positioned centrally within the plot. I was careful to ensure that all edges of the structure were set significantly back from the property lines to maintain a sense of openness. The extra space around the building not only allowed for flexibility in the outdoor design but also contributed to the overall feeling of dignity and comfort that I want this shelter to provide.

As I outlined the walls, I used the software’s built-in measurement tools to keep proportions accurate and balanced. This stage created the core shape of the shelter and served as the foundation for designing the internal layout of rooms and functional spaces. The generous spacing around the structure also made it easier to think about flow, privacy, and the connection between indoor and outdoor areas as I continued the planning process.

Once the main outline of the building was in place, I moved on to adding the interior room divisions within the structure. I used Floorplanner’s wall tool to draw internal walls, organizing the space into a functional and comfortable layout. My goal was to make sure each room had a clear purpose and was arranged logically, making the shelter feel both efficient and livable.

I started by blocking out the most essential spaces first, like the sleeping areas, bathrooms, and a central common room. I positioned these in a way that balanced privacy with accessibility—for example, placing the sleeping areas along the edges for quiet and the common areas toward the center to encourage gathering. I paid attention to flow, making sure people could move through the building easily without congestion or awkward transitions.

As I drew the room outlines, I kept checking the scale to make sure each space was realistically sized and fit well within the overall structure. I adjusted wall placements to maintain symmetry, improve circulation, and make room for support spaces like storage, staff offices, or counseling rooms.

By laying out the rooms directly inside the building outline, I was able to visualize how the shelter would feel in use and ensure that every part of the interior served a practical function while contributing to a safe and welcoming environment.

After laying out the room divisions inside the building footprint, I turned my attention to furnishing the interior spaces. This step was about more than just placing objects—it was about making the shelter feel livable, welcoming, and thoughtfully organized for the people who would use it. Using Floorplanner’s built-in catalog of furniture and fixtures, I carefully selected and arranged pieces that matched each room’s purpose while keeping comfort, accessibility, and practicality in mind.

I began with the sleeping areas, which are among the most important parts of the shelter. I added beds and arranged them to ensure each individual had a reasonable amount of personal space. In rooms designed to house multiple people, I placed beds with generous spacing between them and oriented them to maximize both privacy and ease of movement. I included nightstands and small personal storage units to give residents a place to keep their belongings—adding a layer of dignity and security to the space. Where possible, I experimented with different arrangements to reduce visual clutter and avoid making the rooms feel institutional or overly crowded.

Moving to the common areas, I furnished these spaces with the intention of encouraging community and rest. I added couches, armchairs, and tables, creating multiple seating arrangements where people could sit comfortably, talk, relax, or even read quietly. I was careful to leave enough space between the furniture for people to walk through easily, including those with mobility aids. I wanted the common room to feel like a place that could bring people together without feeling cramped or chaotic.

In the kitchen and dining areas, I added appliances such as refrigerators, stoves, and sinks, along with counters and cabinetry for meal prep and storage. I arranged dining tables and chairs in a way that allowed small groups to eat together while still keeping the space open and flexible. I also included thoughtful elements like open floor space for serving lines or temporary equipment.

The bathrooms and utility areas were kept more minimal, with essential fixtures like toilets, sinks, and showers placed in logical, accessible layouts. For shared bathrooms, I added partitions where appropriate to ensure privacy. I also considered the placement of doors, traffic flow, and ventilation when laying out these high-use areas.

Support and staff spaces were furnished with desks, shelves, and storage units. These areas were designed to be functional and efficient without feeling clinical. I wanted them to provide the necessary infrastructure for managing the shelter without being physically or visually separate from the rest of the environment.

As I moved forward with the design, I placed a strong focus on incorporating natural light throughout the shelter. I wanted the space to feel open, calming, and connected to the outside world—especially since the people who would be living here may have experienced long periods in environments that felt harsh, confined, or isolating. Bringing in sunlight was an important part of creating a sense of comfort and dignity.

To achieve this, I added windows to each of the main rooms in the building. Using Floorplanner’s tools, I placed them in thoughtful locations so that every space—whether it was for sleeping, gathering, eating, or working—could receive natural light during the day. This helped reduce the reliance on artificial lighting and created a brighter, more uplifting atmosphere throughout the interior.

The consistent use of windows helped unify the design and allowed daylight to flow more evenly from one space to another. I avoided placing large furniture in front of them so that the light would be able to enter and spread naturally across the rooms. This also enhanced the feeling of openness, which was important to me in making the shelter feel like a place of recovery and hope rather than just functionality.

Adding natural light through windows was a simple but powerful way to support the mental well-being of the shelter’s future residents. It helped soften the space, bring a feeling of warmth, and reinforce the idea that everyone deserves to live in an environment that feels welcoming and humane.

Once I finished placing the furniture and refining the layout with thoughtful design choices—like adding windows for natural light—I moved on to creating a visual export of my finished floor plan. To do this, I used Floorplanner’s export feature, which allows users to generate a high-quality image of their design.

I clicked the "Export Image" option in the software’s toolbar, which opened up a set of export preferences. From there, I selected the view I wanted to capture—choosing the 2D floor plan to clearly show the structure, room divisions, and furniture arrangement. I also adjusted the resolution and zoom level to make sure all details were visible and the image would be sharp and easy to present or print.

After finalizing these settings, I clicked the Export Image (SD) button to generate the image. The software processed the floor plan and created a downloadable file, which I saved as part of my project documentation. This image became a useful visual tool for communicating my design clearly to others and capturing the final look of the shelter layout.

I started the new build by first designing the texture for the exterior of the shelter directly in Tinkercad. I wanted the surface to have more visual interest than just smooth walls, so I chose to create a brick-like texture by manually placing individual rectangular shapes to represent each brick. I began by dragging out one rectangle onto the workplane, adjusting its proportions to resemble the scale of a standard brick relative to the rest of the model. Once I had the first brick sized properly, I used the align tool to make sure it was square with the workplane edges, so the pattern wouldn’t gradually drift out of alignment as I added more.

After placing the first few bricks by hand to test spacing, I used Tinkercad’s duplicate and repeat feature to speed up the process. I duplicated the brick and moved the copy over by a fixed amount, creating the first complete row. Then I duplicated that whole row and raised it slightly to begin forming the next row of bricks. To give the wall a more realistic brick layout, I offset each alternating row slightly, just like in traditional brick walls, creating that classic staggered pattern. I repeated this process to build up a full panel of tightly spaced, neatly organized brick rectangles.

Once the full brick pattern was arranged, I realized that trying to use dozens of separate pieces in the final model would make it difficult to handle and print cleanly. To solve that, I created a large, thin rectangular panel to serve as a backing for the bricks. I aligned the back panel perfectly behind the brick layer and grouped them together into a single solid shape. This kept all of the bricks connected as one clean object, preventing small pieces from breaking off during printing or handling. It also made it easier to position the texture on the walls later on in the design.

By approaching the texture this way, I was able to combine fine visual detail with structural practicality, creating a repeating, realistic brick texture that would work well both in the digital design and during 3D printing.

After creating the detailed brick texture, I used that design as the building block for forming the outer wall of the shelter. I started by placing the brick-textured panel along the edges of the floorplan layout. Whenever a section of the wall needed to be longer to match the shape of the building, I used the duplicate tool to quickly create identical copies of the textured panel. I lined these up carefully, making sure the brick pattern flowed smoothly from one piece to the next, creating a continuous, seamless look around the outer edges.

In places where a section of wall was too long or needed to stop at a specific point to match the floorplan exactly, I used rectangular hole shapes to trim the ends. By positioning these hole boxes precisely where I wanted to shorten a wall section, I could subtract just the right amount of material, leaving a clean, sharp edge. This process of extending with duplicates and trimming with holes gave me full control over the length of each part of the outer wall.

Piece by piece, I worked my way around the entire perimeter of the shelter, using only the brick-textured panels to shape the full outline. By the time I was done, the result was a complete outer wall, matching the planned layout exactly.

As I assembled the outer walls using the brick-textured panels, I added small gaps at the corners of each wall section to make space for decorative posts. I wanted these posts to break up the surface visually and add architectural detail to the overall structure, making the corners feel more intentional and designed.

To create the gaps, I used elongated rectangular hole shapes in Tinkercad. I started by dragging out a standard rectangle and then stretched it vertically into a tall, narrow shape that matched the height of the wall but stayed slim enough to just leave room for the posts. I positioned one of these elongated rectangles at each corner, carefully aligning them so that the gaps would be even and clean. Once everything was lined up, I grouped the shapes, and the elongated rectangles acted as clean cutouts at the corners.

By adding these narrow gaps while I was building the walls, I made sure that when I came back to add the posts, they would fit perfectly into place. This step added structure to the design and helped give the corners a more finished, thought-out look.

As I worked on assembling the outer walls of the shelter, I took the time to add specific slots for the windows to slide into, matching their positions exactly to the floorplan I had laid out earlier. I wanted to make sure that the windows would fit neatly within the walls, not just attached loosely on the outside, so I carefully planned and cut proper openings for them as part of the wall construction process.

To create these slots, I used rectangular hole shapes in Tinkercad. I stretched each rectangle to the correct size based on the window measurements I had used when designing the windows themselves. I made the slots slightly larger than the actual window pieces—not too big, but just enough to make sure the windows could slide in easily during assembly without needing to force them into place.

I positioned each slot by following the floorplan closely, checking the distance between the openings and making sure they lined up properly along the length of each wall section. I didn’t want any of the windows to look uneven or out of place, so I adjusted and realigned each rectangular hole until I was satisfied that everything matched what I had planned from the start.

Once all the rectangular holes were positioned correctly, I grouped them with the wall sections, cutting out clean, sharp-edged slots. By doing this during the wall-building stage, I avoided needing to make last-minute adjustments later, and I ensured that everything would fit together smoothly when I began assembling the final model.

To build the full window design, I started by using rectangles to form the main frame. I dragged a rectangular shape onto the workplane and adjusted its proportions to get the right size for the window opening. Then, to create the hollow center, I added another slightly smaller rectangle, set it as a hole, and aligned it inside the first one. After grouping them, this left a clean, even frame around the edges.

Next, I added more visual weight by creating a thicker outer border. I did this by placing another larger rectangle around the frame and adjusting its size so that it framed the original shape with a bold outline. This made the window stand out more and gave it a finished look.

To make the design more interesting, I added a small arch at the top of the window. For this, I used a half-cylinder shape, positioned it carefully at the top edge of the rectangle, and resized it so the curve fit smoothly along the top of the frame. This helped soften the overall rectangular form of the window.

Then I added the crisscross pattern inside the opening. Using long, thin rectangles, I placed two pieces diagonally from opposite corners of the window, forming an “X” shape right in the center. I carefully adjusted the thickness of these pieces so they wouldn’t overpower the design but would still be sturdy enough when printed.

Finally, I added a rectangular piece to the back of the window so it would fit securely into the matching slots I had already cut into the brick-textured walls. By the end of this process, I had a fully detailed, elegant window.

To design the door for the shelter, I began by first preparing the wall where the door would be placed. Using the floorplan as a guide, I positioned a rectangular hole on the outer wall exactly where the entrance was planned to go. I carefully sized and aligned the hole to match the dimensions of the door I was about to create, making sure the cutout fit cleanly into the structure.

With the opening ready, I moved on to designing the actual door. I started by dragging a rectangle onto the Tinkercad workplane and adjusted it to form the main body of the door. This rectangle provided the base shape and proportions. For the doorknob, I combined two basic shapes: I used a short, wide cylinder for the base of the knob, then placed a sphere on top of it to create a rounded, realistic handle. I positioned this combined handle off to one side of the door to complete the functional detail.

To give the door a more finished and decorative look, I added six rectangular cutaways spaced evenly across its surface. I used long, narrow rectangles as holes to carve out those six spaces. Inside each of these cutouts, I added a small stack of solid rectangles, each one slightly smaller than the one below it, to create a layered effect. These stacked rectangles gave the door more texture and made the design look more intentional and crafted, while keeping the overall shape simple and clean.

By the end of this process, the door had a rectangular frame, a decorative handle, six evenly spaced decorative cutaways, and layered rectangular accents inside each one. It was ready to be added to the opening I had prepared in the wall.

After finishing the walls and door, I moved on to creating the roof of the shelter. I wanted part of the roof to be flat for the green roof area, and the rest to have a sloped shape for a more traditional look. To start, I dragged out a large flat rectangle in Tinkercad and positioned it over the section of the building that I planned to cover with vegetation later. I adjusted the size so that it covered that portion of the structure cleanly, making sure the edges lined up with the outer walls.

For the sloped section of the roof, I used a triangular prism. I placed the prism on top of the other half of the shelter, angling it to create the pitched shape I wanted. To sharpen the angles and get the sloped sides exactly right, I used rectangular hole shapes. I positioned the rectangles as holes against the sides of the prism and used them to slice off material, adjusting the shape until the two sloped faces of the prism angled in neatly toward the center. To slice of the material, I grouped them with the main triangular prism.

By combining the flat section with the angled triangular prism, I created a roof that was part flat, ready for planting, and part pitched, adding visual variety to the overall shape of the building.

To prepare everything for 3D printing, I began by flattening all the parts in Tinkercad. This meant laying each piece down so that its broadest, most stable surface was flush with the workplane, helping ensure strong first layers and clean prints. I did this for all major components—the wall panels, windows, door, and the roof—so that every part would print flat and avoid warping or failed adhesion.

The walls, windows, and door were already modeled as individual pieces, so once flattened, I didn’t need to do any additional slicing. Each window was placed face-up, allowing the crisscross and arch details to print cleanly. The door, with its handle and layered panel cutouts, was also laid with the detailed face upward. For the wall sections, I positioned them so the brick texture was visible from the top, ensuring it came out clean and defined during printing.

The roof was the only part that needed to be physically divided. It was too large to print in one go, so I used two rectangular hole shapes to slice it into three parts. I placed the cuts at clean, straight points that avoided angled sections or detail-heavy edges. After grouping the hole shapes with the full roof, I was left with three individual roof sections, each small enough to print on its own. I then flattened all three roof parts so their base edges sat flush against the build plate.

Once all components were correctly oriented and grouped, I exported each one as a separate STL file—flattened and ready for slicing and printing with minimal risk of errors.

After finalizing the model in Tinkercad, I exported it as an STL file and opened it in my slicing software to prepare it for 3D printing. In the slicer, I first made sure the model was oriented properly—flat side down—so it would have a stable base and the brick texture would print cleanly without needing extra supports. I double-checked the scale and dimensions to make sure everything matched the original plan.

Next, I set my layer height and infill settings. I used a standard layer height that would preserve the detail of the brick pattern while still printing efficiently, and I chose a moderate infill to give the walls strength without wasting material. I also checked that the wall cutouts—for windows, posts, and the door—were rendering correctly in the preview and wouldn’t close up or warp during the print.

Once everything looked good, I sliced the model to generate the G-code, then saved it to a thumb drive. I loaded beige PLA filament into the printer to give the walls a warm, natural color and inserted the thumb drive with the G-code. After preheating the printer and running a quick extrusion test to make sure the filament was flowing smoothly, I selected the wall print and started the job.

I watched the first few layers to make sure they stuck properly to the print bed and that the details—especially the textured bricks and narrow slots—were coming out clean. The print ran for several hours, gradually building up the full wall structure. When it finished, I let it cool before carefully removing the finished piece. The result was a solid, beige wall section with all the planned details printed clearly and accurately.

When it came time to 3D print the windows, I knew I had to be especially careful because of their fine details—like the thin crisscross patterns and the arched tops. These small elements could easily warp or fail if the print settings weren’t just right, so I took extra steps to make sure everything would come out clean and precise.

I started by opening each flattened window STL in my slicing software and adjusting the layer height to a finer setting than I had used for larger parts like the walls. A lower layer height meant more layers overall, but it helped preserve the small features and ensured that the edges of the crisscross pieces didn’t get rounded off or blurred. I also lowered the print speed slightly to give the printer more time to handle the detailed areas.

To keep the thin features from wobbling or breaking during printing, I used a brim for added bed adhesion. This helped prevent the narrow base of each window from lifting or curling. I made sure the temperature settings were consistent with the filament I was using—usually PLA—and double-checked the fan and cooling settings so the details wouldn’t sag as they formed.

Once everything was set up, I loaded the beige filament, preheated the printer, and ran a quick nozzle check. I then started printing one window at a time to ensure the highest quality and to catch any issues early. As each print ran, I kept a close eye on the first few layers to confirm the detail was coming through properly—especially around the arch and inside the thin diagonal strips. When the prints were finished, I carefully removed them from the bed using a thin scraper, making sure not to damage the delicate frame or interior features. Each finished window came out with clean lines, sharp edges, and intact detail, just as I had designed.

For the wall posts and the door, I switched to dark brown filament to give those elements a distinct, contrasting tone against the beige walls. I wanted them to stand out visually while still feeling natural and grounded within the overall look of the shelter.

I started by loading the dark brown PLA into the printer and purging any remaining beige filament to make sure the color transition was clean. Since the wall posts were small and narrow, I positioned them flat on the bed to ensure good adhesion and reduce the risk of warping. I double-checked the layer height to balance detail and strength, and I made sure the bed was level to avoid any lifting or uneven edges.

For the door, which had more complex features like the cutouts, stacked rectangles, and rounded handle, I took extra care with the print settings. I slowed the print speed slightly to allow the printer to move more precisely through the details, especially around the handle and the layered designs. I also added a small brim around the base of the door to help it stay flat as it printed.

Throughout the print, I monitored the progress closely, especially during the handle section, which was more delicate due to its rounded shape and small contact point. Once finished, the door and all the wall posts came out clean and sturdy in the rich dark brown color, giving them a finished look that clearly separated them from the rest of the structure and added to the overall depth of the model.

I printed the roof by first carefully slicing the entire roof model into three separate, manageable sections because the full roof was too large to fit on my 3D printer’s build plate all at once. Breaking the model down into smaller parts was necessary to ensure each piece could be printed with the right level of detail and structural integrity without risking errors or warping during printing. I chose brown filament for all the pieces to maintain a uniform and natural aesthetic once the roof was fully assembled. Each section was printed individually, with careful attention to printer settings such as layer height, print speed, and infill density, to create sturdy parts that would fit together well. After the printing process was complete, I thoroughly inspected each piece and prepared the edges by sanding them lightly. This step was crucial because it smoothed out any rough surfaces or small imperfections left by the printer, allowing the pieces to join seamlessly without gaps. Once the edges were properly finished, I used hot glue to join the roof pieces together. I applied the hot glue carefully along the connecting edges, then pressed the parts firmly together and held them in place until the glue cooled and solidified. Using hot glue allowed for a quick bond and made it easy to adjust the pieces slightly before the glue set. After assembling all the sections, I let the roof rest for a short time to ensure the glue hardened fully, resulting in a solid and stable roof structure that was ready for further use or finishing. Throughout the entire process, I took care to maintain precision and patience, knowing that proper preparation, printing, and gluing were essential to achieving a clean, professional-looking final piece.

I inserted the windows into the window slots in the walls by first carefully preparing each window piece to ensure a clean fit. After printing, I removed any leftover support material and smoothed rough edges by sanding, making sure the windows were free of imperfections that could interfere with insertion. I also checked the window slots in the walls and lightly sanded the edges if needed to ensure the openings were clean and smooth. Once everything was prepared, I aligned each window carefully with its corresponding slot, making sure the orientation was correct for a flush fit. I gently pressed the windows into place, avoiding any force that might cause damage. After confirming the windows were seated evenly and securely in their slots, I applied hot glue along the edges inside the slots to firmly fix each window in place. I held them steady while the glue cooled and solidified, ensuring a strong bond. This careful process of cleaning, aligning, inserting, and gluing resulted in windows that fit neatly and securely, enhancing the overall finish and stability of the walls.

I inserted the door by first carefully inspecting the door piece to ensure it was clean and free from any leftover support material, stringing, or rough edges that could interfere with the fit. I used fine sandpaper and small tools to smooth out any imperfections and make sure the edges were even and precise. Next, I examined the door slot in the wall to confirm it was the correct size and shape for the door piece. If there were any rough spots or small irregularities in the slot, I gently sanded those areas to create a smooth, well-defined opening that would allow the door to fit properly without forcing it.

Once both the door and the slot were fully prepared, I carefully aligned the door with the slot, paying close attention to the orientation to ensure it would sit flush and look natural once inserted. I gently pressed the door into place, applying even pressure to avoid bending or damaging either piece. The fit was designed to be snug but not too tight, so I made sure to avoid forcing the door in, which could cause cracks or misalignment.

After the door was seated properly and evenly in the slot, I applied hot glue carefully along the edges inside the slot to secure the door firmly in place. I used just enough glue to create a strong bond without excess spilling out or making a mess. I held the door steady for several minutes while the hot glue cooled and hardened, ensuring the bond was solid and the door would remain firmly attached during handling or further assembly.

Finally, I inspected the installation to make sure the door was flush with the wall surface, properly aligned, and stable. The careful process of cleaning, preparing, aligning, inserting, and gluing resulted in a door that looked well-fitted and professional, adding to the overall quality and realism of the wall assembly.

I assembled the walls by first carefully preparing each wall section and the accompanying wall posts, which were specifically designed to facilitate secure connections between the individual wall pieces. These wall posts acted as structural guides, ensuring that when the walls were brought together, they would align perfectly at the correct angles and positions, providing both stability and accuracy to the overall assembly. Before beginning the assembly, I thoroughly inspected each wall piece and its corresponding posts to make sure there were no printing imperfections, rough edges, or leftover support materials that could interfere with the fit. Any minor irregularities were gently sanded or filed down to create smooth surfaces that would allow the parts to join tightly without gaps.

With all components prepared, I began the assembly process by positioning the first wall section upright and aligning a wall post at its designated connecting edge. I carefully fitted the adjoining wall section so that its edge matched precisely with the post, effectively locking the two pieces together in the intended configuration. The posts provided a built-in framework that prevented the walls from shifting or misaligning during this step, which was crucial for maintaining the structural integrity and intended shape of the model.

Once the walls and posts were properly aligned, I applied hot glue generously but precisely along the contact points—both along the edges of the walls and around the wall posts themselves. The hot glue served as a strong adhesive that bonded the parts quickly, allowing for fast yet secure connections. While applying the glue, I took care to avoid excessive amounts that might spill over and affect the clean appearance of the joints. After the glue was applied, I pressed the connected sections firmly together, ensuring full contact between the surfaces to maximize adhesion. I held each joint steady for several moments to allow the hot glue to cool and harden, which helped create a durable and stable bond.

I repeated this careful process for each connection point, methodically assembling the entire wall structure piece by piece. The wall posts not only helped align the sections but also added internal support, distributing stress evenly across the joints and preventing any weak spots. After assembling all the walls, I inspected every seam and joint closely to verify that the connections were tight and secure. If I noticed any areas where the bond seemed insufficient or gaps appeared, I applied a small amount of additional hot glue to reinforce those spots.

Throughout the entire assembly process, patience and precision were key. Taking the time to properly prepare the parts, align the wall posts accurately, and carefully apply the hot glue ensured that the final wall structure was both strong and visually clean. The resulting assembly was stable enough to support further construction steps and maintained the intended design without warping or misalignment, thanks largely to the combined role of the wall posts and hot glue in creating a robust connection system.

I cut a large base out of foam core using a utility knife by first carefully measuring and marking the exact dimensions I needed on the foam core board with a pencil and ruler. Once the lines were clearly drawn, I placed the foam core on a stable, flat surface to keep it from moving during cutting. I made sure to use a sharp utility knife, replacing the blade if it was dull, because a fresh blade is essential for clean, precise cuts without tearing the paper surface of the foam core. Holding a metal ruler firmly along the pencil lines as a straightedge, I carefully scored the foam core by running the utility knife along the edge with light, controlled pressure. Instead of trying to cut through in a single pass, I made several shallow passes, gradually deepening the cut to maintain control and accuracy. This technique helped prevent jagged edges and ensured the foam core was cut cleanly. I kept my fingers well clear of the blade and maintained a steady hand throughout the process to avoid accidents. After completing the cut, I examined the edges and, if necessary, used the utility knife to trim or smooth out any uneven spots, resulting in a large base piece with straight, clean edges that was ready for use in my project.

I created the lawn by using spray glue and different colored grass powders applied in multiple layers to achieve a realistic, textured effect. First, I prepared the base surface where the lawn would be created, making sure it was clean and dry to ensure proper adhesion. I began by spraying a thin, even coat of spray glue over a small section of the base, working in manageable areas so the glue wouldn’t dry out before I applied the grass powders.

Immediately after spraying the glue, I sprinkled a base layer of grass powder, choosing a medium green shade as the foundational color. I distributed the powder evenly but lightly to mimic the natural look of grass without creating clumps. Once this first layer was applied, I allowed the glue to set briefly so the powder would adhere firmly.

After the base layer was secure, I repeated the process by spraying another layer of glue over a new section or over parts of the first layer where I wanted more depth. This time, I applied a slightly different shade of green grass powder—some areas with darker greens and others with lighter or yellowish-green tones—to create variation and avoid a flat, uniform appearance. Each different color was sprinkled carefully to blend subtly with the layers below, adding richness and complexity to the lawn’s texture.

To enhance realism further, I also introduced small amounts of brown or tan grass powders intermittently. These represented patches of dry or dead grass, giving the lawn a more natural, lived-in look. With every new layer of spray glue and grass powder, I worked patiently, ensuring each layer adhered well before adding the next. The layering technique built up the density and visual depth of the lawn, making it appear lush and three-dimensional.

Between layers, I occasionally used a soft brush to gently tap or spread the powders, blending colors smoothly and removing any loose particles that didn’t stick properly. This helped maintain a clean finish and prevented unwanted clumps or uneven patches. The multiple layers of varying colors and textures, combined with the precise use of spray glue as an adhesive, resulted in a rich, vibrant lawn that looked realistic and full of life.

Throughout the process, I worked carefully and methodically, understanding that building up the lawn in stages rather than all at once was key to achieving the desired effect. The time and attention invested in layering the glue and grass powders paid off by producing a detailed, textured surface that convincingly mimicked real grass, enhancing the overall quality and visual appeal of the model.

I created the green roof by using stick-on model plants carefully applied to the roof surface to simulate lush greenery. First, I prepared the roof by making sure its surface was clean and dry, providing a good base for adhesion. I selected a variety of small, realistic model plants with different shades of green and textures to add depth and natural variation to the roof.

Starting with the larger plants, I peeled off the backing from the adhesive side and positioned them strategically across the roof, pressing firmly to ensure they stuck well. I spaced these plants thoughtfully to mimic natural growth patterns, avoiding uniform placement. Next, I filled in the gaps with smaller plants and patches of greenery, layering different shapes and sizes to create a dense, rich coverage.

As I worked, I adjusted the placement of each plant slightly before pressing it down completely, allowing me to achieve an organic, uneven look rather than a flat, artificial arrangement. By combining multiple types of model plants and layering them carefully, I was able to build up a textured green roof that looked vibrant and alive.

Throughout the process, I took care to cover the entire roof area evenly while leaving some variation in density to replicate how plants grow in nature. The stick-on plants adhered securely, creating a durable green roof that added both aesthetic appeal and a touch of natural realism to the model.

I then attached the roof to the model by first preparing both the roof and the main structure to ensure a clean and secure connection. I carefully inspected the top edges of the walls and the underside of the roof to make sure there was no dust, debris, or rough spots that could interfere with adhesion. Any imperfections were gently cleaned or sanded to create smooth surfaces for a better bond. Next, I positioned the roof above the model, aligning it precisely with the edges of the walls. I took extra time to make sure the roof fit perfectly, checking from multiple angles to avoid any gaps, overhangs, or misalignment that could compromise the overall appearance or stability.

Once I was confident with the positioning, I applied hot glue thoughtfully along the contact points on the top edges of the walls where the roof would rest. I spread the glue evenly but avoided excessive amounts that could spill over or create messy seams. Then, I carefully lowered the roof onto the walls, pressing it firmly down to ensure full contact with the glued areas. I held the roof in place steadily for several minutes to allow the hot glue to cool and solidify, forming a strong and lasting bond.

After the initial setting, I inspected the connection thoroughly, gently testing the roof’s stability to confirm it was securely attached and would not shift or come loose during handling. If I noticed any weak spots or small gaps, I applied a bit more hot glue along those areas and pressed again until fully bonded. Throughout this process, I worked patiently and deliberately to maintain precise alignment and a clean finish, knowing that the roof attachment was critical to the overall structural integrity and aesthetic of the model.

By taking the time to prepare the surfaces, align carefully, and use the hot glue effectively, I was able to attach the roof solidly to the model, resulting in a cohesive and sturdy build that looked polished and professional, ready for any further detailing or display.

I glued the house onto the base I made by first preparing both the house structure and the base surface to ensure a strong, lasting bond. I began by inspecting the bottom edges of the house and the corresponding area on the base where the house would be placed, making sure both were clean, dry, and free from dust, debris, or any loose material that could weaken the adhesion. If necessary, I gently wiped the surfaces with a dry cloth or lightly sanded any uneven spots to create smooth, flat contact areas. This preparation was essential for maximizing the glue’s effectiveness and ensuring the house would sit securely without wobbling or shifting.

Next, I carefully measured and positioned the house on the base to determine the exact placement before applying any glue. This step involved aligning the walls with the edges or markings on the base, checking from multiple angles to confirm that the house was centered or arranged according to my design plan. Taking the time to do a dry fit without adhesive allowed me to adjust and make sure the house would look balanced and properly situated once attached.

Once I was satisfied with the positioning, I lifted the house and began applying hot glue along the bottom edges of the walls and any supporting structural points that would contact the base. I made sure to apply the glue evenly but without excess, avoiding glue spilling out beyond the edges which could mar the appearance. For extra stability, I also applied glue to key support points or corners to reinforce the bond, especially in areas that would bear more weight or stress.

Immediately after applying the glue, I carefully lowered the house onto the base, aligning it precisely with the markings or edges I had noted earlier. I pressed the structure firmly but gently onto the base to ensure full contact between the glued surfaces, taking care to avoid shifting or sliding which could weaken the bond or misalign the house. Holding the house steadily in place, I maintained pressure for several minutes to allow the hot glue to cool and solidify, forming a strong adhesive connection.

After the glue had set, I inspected the joint all around the base of the house, checking for any gaps, loose spots, or areas where the bond might be weak. If I found any such spots, I applied a small amount of additional glue and pressed again until fully secure. This thorough inspection and reinforcement helped guarantee the house was firmly anchored to the base, able to withstand handling or movement without risk of detachment.

Throughout the entire gluing process, I worked methodically and patiently, knowing that proper preparation, precise alignment, and careful adhesive application were crucial to achieving a clean, professional-looking assembly. The end result was a house securely and neatly attached to the base, providing a stable foundation for further detailing, landscaping, or display.

The construction of your homeless shelter would begin with thorough site preparation. This involves clearing the land of any debris, vegetation, and obstacles, then leveling and compacting the ground to create a stable and even base. Proper grading is essential to ensure that water drains away from the building’s foundation, preventing moisture buildup that could cause long-term structural issues.

Once the site is prepared, the next step is to lay a solid foundation. A reinforced concrete slab foundation would be poured, which entails setting up wooden formwork to shape the slab, placing steel rebar inside for added strength, and then pouring a high-strength concrete mix. The slab foundation provides a durable, flat, and moisture-resistant base that supports the shelter’s entire structure and helps prevent settling or shifting over time.

After allowing the concrete to cure fully, construction would move to erecting the walls. The walls would be framed using timber studs, selected for their strength, availability, and ease of assembly. Each stud would be precisely cut and assembled according to architectural plans to ensure proper spacing and dimensions. These timber frames would then be sheathed with structural insulated panels (SIPs) or similar insulated sheathing materials to provide thermal efficiency, weather resistance, and structural rigidity. Vapor barriers and weatherproof membranes would be applied to protect the interior from moisture and drafts. Openings for windows and doors would be framed during this stage.

Energy-efficient windows and secure doors would be installed next. Windows would likely be double-glazed to enhance insulation and reduce heat loss, and doors would include weather stripping and locking mechanisms for security and energy conservation. All window and door installations would be sealed properly with flashing and caulk to prevent water intrusion.

Once the walls are assembled and sealed, the roof framing would begin. Wooden roof trusses would be constructed and installed, designed to evenly distribute weight and withstand local weather conditions. Over the trusses, a waterproof membrane—such as EPDM rubber or a synthetic roofing underlayment—would be installed to create a continuous moisture barrier, preventing water leaks into the structure.

The green roof would be built on top of this waterproof membrane in several carefully layered steps:

1. Root Barrier Installation: A durable root barrier membrane would be laid down first to prevent plant roots from penetrating and damaging the waterproof membrane beneath. This barrier protects the integrity of the roof while allowing the plants to thrive above.
2. Drainage Layer: A lightweight drainage layer would be added on top of the root barrier. This layer ensures excess rainwater can flow away from the roof efficiently, preventing waterlogging of the growing medium. It also helps retain some moisture for the plants while avoiding heavy weight buildup.
3. Filter Fabric Layer: Over the drainage layer, a filter fabric would be placed to keep fine particles from clogging the drainage system. This layer also helps hold the growing medium in place while allowing water to pass through freely.
4. Growing Medium: A specially formulated lightweight soil substitute designed for green roofs would be spread evenly across the surface. This medium is engineered to retain moisture, provide nutrients, and support plant growth while minimizing the additional load on the structure.
5. Plant Selection and Planting: Drought-resistant, low-maintenance plants such as sedums, mosses, native grasses, and small shrubs would be planted into the growing medium. These plants are chosen for their ability to thrive in shallow soil with minimal watering and care, creating a lush, insulating green roof that reduces heat transfer, manages rainwater runoff, and improves air quality.
6. Irrigation and Maintenance Considerations: Depending on climate and plant selection, a simple irrigation system might be installed to support plant health during dry periods. Regular maintenance, such as weeding and trimming, would help sustain the green roof’s vitality over time.

Simultaneously, the area surrounding the shelter would be prepared for landscaping. Soil would be graded to promote proper drainage, and nutrient-rich topsoil would be added to encourage healthy grass growth. Grass seed or sod would be laid down carefully to create a natural lawn that complements the green roof and provides a welcoming environment.

Throughout the entire construction process, strict adherence to building codes, safety regulations, and environmental standards would be maintained. Inspections by qualified professionals would be conducted at key milestones to verify that foundations, framing, insulation, roofing, and finishes meet all required standards.

The combined effect of the insulated walls, weatherproof roofing, and green roof system would provide an energy-efficient, comfortable shelter. The green roof adds thermal mass, reduces urban heat island effects, and enhances stormwater management, while the natural lawn and landscaping create a humane, inviting space.

Finally, careful coordination among carpenters, roofers, landscapers, and other trades ensures the shelter is completed on schedule with attention to durability, functionality, and sustainability. This comprehensive, layered approach results in a sturdy, weather-resistant, and eco-friendly homeless shelter that provides safety and comfort to its occupants.

Throughout the entire design process, I actively sought and gathered feedback at multiple stages to ensure that the project not only met my vision but also incorporated practical improvements and aesthetic refinements suggested by others. At the very beginning, after developing the initial sketches and 3D models, I shared these preliminary designs with peers, mentors, and collaborators who had experience in modeling and design. Their fresh perspectives were invaluable—they helped me spot potential problems in proportions, overall layout, and usability that I might have missed working alone. This early feedback allowed me to make key adjustments before moving further into the detailed production phase, saving time and reducing the need for major rework later.

As I moved on to printing physical prototypes of individual components such as the walls, roof, and windows, I continued to involve others in the process by showing them the tangible parts. This hands-on feedback was crucial, as it provided insights into how the pieces fit together, how they looked in real life versus digital renderings, and how easy or difficult the assembly would be. For example, some suggested ways to improve the sturdiness of connections or offered ideas to simplify assembly without sacrificing detail. They also encouraged me to think about the tactile qualities and textures of the model, which helped me refine the choice of materials and finishes.

One particularly valuable suggestion was to incorporate grass powder to create the lawn instead of relying solely on painted or printed textures. This advice came after showing progress photos of the base, where the flat surface looked a bit artificial. Incorporating different shades of grass powder and layering them with spray glue added much-needed texture and realism to the lawn area. This tip transformed the look of the model and made the environment feel more lifelike and engaging.

In addition to the grass powder idea, I received important feedback regarding the color palette. Several reviewers noted that the colors I was using for the house should complement the natural tones of the lawn and surrounding elements to create a cohesive, harmonious look. They recommended adjusting the color scale of the house to better match earthy and muted tones found in nature, rather than overly bright or contrasting colors that would feel out of place. Taking this advice to heart, I refined the house colors to blend seamlessly with the lawn and green roof, which greatly enhanced the overall visual balance of the model.

Throughout assembly, I regularly sought input on the fit and stability of the parts. I invited others to handle the model, which helped reveal subtle issues such as slight misalignments or weak joints that weren’t obvious just by looking. Their hands-on critique prompted me to reinforce key areas, use stronger adhesives, and improve the preparation of connecting surfaces. I also kept detailed notes of all feedback and compared it with my own observations to prioritize changes effectively and maintain a clear vision.

By continuously inviting, listening to, and applying feedback throughout every phase—from concept and prototyping to assembly and final detailing—I was able to iterate and improve the design in meaningful ways. This open, collaborative, and iterative approach ensured the final model was not only technically sound and visually compelling but also resonated with others’ expectations and standards. The integration of suggestions like using grass powder and adjusting the color scale contributed significantly to the success and quality of the finished project.

Reflecting on everything I’ve learned through this project—and especially after understanding the deep history of Bayview-Hunters Point—I’ve come to realize how powerful design can be when it responds not just to physical needs, but to social and historical contexts as well. What began as a model-making assignment quickly grew into something more meaningful: a way to explore how architecture and community care can intersect.

Through every step of designing, cutting, assembling, and detailing the model shelter, I learned practical skills in construction, planning, and sustainability. I understood how important it is to think through each layer of a structure—from the foundation to the green roof—and how even small details like color choices, materials, and landscaping contribute to a sense of dignity and comfort. At the same time, I learned how valuable it is to take feedback from others, to keep improving, and to build something that isn’t just functional but also beautiful and human-centered.

But what struck me most was learning about Bayview-Hunters Point itself—its history of promise and neglect, of community strength and systemic abandonment. This project made me think deeply about how cities are built, who gets to benefit, and who is often left behind. The fact that neighborhoods like Bayview have faced decades of pollution, job loss, and underinvestment is not just a historical fact—it’s a call to action.

If a shelter like mine were built in Bayview-Hunters Point, it could be more than just a roof. It could be a symbol of care, of attention, of investment in people who deserve far better than they’ve received. It could show that good design isn’t reserved for wealthy areas, but can—and should—serve communities that have been historically underserved.

In the end, this project taught me more than how to build a model. It taught me how design can be a tool for justice. It reminded me that when we take the time to understand people’s histories, and when we commit to building things that respond with empathy, creativity, and care, we’re not just constructing buildings—we’re helping build a better future.

Throughout this entire project, I have learned an incredible amount about both the theoretical and practical sides of design, construction, and sustainable building techniques. Starting from the initial concept stage, I developed a deeper appreciation for the importance of thorough planning and precise measurement, which are crucial to ensuring that each component fits together seamlessly. I learned how to prepare and work with various materials—such as foam core for the base, timber and insulated panels for walls, and the use of adhesives like hot glue—to build a sturdy and well-aligned structure. The process of cutting, assembling, and layering parts taught me valuable lessons in patience, accuracy, and problem-solving.

One of the most impactful aspects of the project was learning how to incorporate environmentally sustainable features, particularly the green roof system. Understanding the multiple layers involved—from waterproof membranes and root barriers to drainage systems and specialized growing mediums—gave me insight into how nature can be integrated into architecture to improve energy efficiency, manage rainwater, and enhance air quality. Applying grass powders and textured landscaping techniques for the lawn also expanded my knowledge of creating realistic, natural aesthetics that bring life and warmth to built environments.

Seeking and integrating feedback throughout the process was another critical learning experience. By actively collaborating with peers, mentors, and communities, I realized how essential outside perspectives are for improving designs and solving unforeseen challenges. The suggestions to use natural color scales for the house and to apply grass powder for the lawn significantly enhanced the model’s realism and cohesion. This iterative approach reinforced the value of adaptability and open-mindedness in creative projects.

If a shelter designed with these principles were implemented in Bayview and Hunters Point, neighborhoods that face significant challenges related to homelessness and environmental stress, it could make a transformative difference. These communities often struggle with limited affordable housing options, exposure to harsh weather, and a lack of green, livable spaces. By introducing shelters built with durable, cost-effective materials and enhanced by sustainable features like green roofs, the city could provide not only safe and comfortable housing but also environmental benefits that uplift the neighborhood as a whole.

The green roof, for example, would help mitigate the urban heat island effect prevalent in these dense, built-up areas by reducing rooftop temperatures and lowering surrounding air temperatures. It would also manage stormwater more effectively, reducing runoff that can overwhelm city drainage systems and contribute to flooding. The inclusion of natural landscaping around the shelter would improve air quality, provide a calming aesthetic, and promote a sense of well-being for residents and neighbors alike.

Moreover, implementing such shelters could serve as a model for affordable, eco-conscious urban design—showing that sustainability and social responsibility can coexist in practical ways that directly benefit vulnerable populations. By providing dignified, energy-efficient homes that consider both human and environmental needs, this approach could foster stronger, healthier communities in Bayview, Hunters Point, and beyond.

Ultimately, the knowledge and skills I gained throughout this project have equipped me to contribute meaningfully to future efforts in urban planning, social housing, and sustainable architecture. The hands-on experience and collaborative mindset developed here provide a solid foundation for designing solutions that address real-world problems with creativity, empathy, and technical proficiency. If adopted at scale, this shelter design could become part of a broader strategy to combat homelessness while improving the quality of life and environmental resilience in underserved urban neighborhoods, making a lasting positive impact on the city.

This project represents the result of weeks of hands-on building, research, problem-solving, and reflection. It would not have been possible without the support, guidance, and inspiration I received from many people and organizations along the way.

First, I want to sincerely thank my teacher for guiding me through this process with thoughtful feedback, encouragement, and patience. Your ability to challenge me creatively while supporting my ideas helped me push this project to a higher level. You reminded me that great design isn’t just about how something looks—it’s about how it works, who it serves, and what it represents. Your insight helped me connect technical work with real-world purpose.

To my classmates, thank you for your feedback throughout the process—whether it was during critique sessions or while watching me glue yet another tiny piece in place. Your comments, suggestions, and even small questions helped me notice details I had overlooked and pushed me to think more deeply about how everything fit together. Some of the most meaningful changes I made—like adjusting the color palette to feel more natural, or using layered grass textures—came directly from your input.

A huge thank you goes to my family and friends for their constant support behind the scenes. Whether it was encouraging me when I was frustrated, helping me test out glue options, or simply reminding me to eat something, your presence and care kept me grounded and motivated through every late-night build session and redesign.

I also want to acknowledge the valuable learning I gained from researching the Bayview-Hunters Point neighborhood. Learning about its rich history and the struggles it has faced—from economic disinvestment and environmental damage to structural racism and housing injustice—changed the way I approached this project. It made me realize that architecture is not neutral. It’s personal, political, and powerful. Understanding the community’s past made me more committed to designing something rooted in care, equity, and possibility. I’m grateful to the writers, activists, historians, and community members who have documented and shared that history, and whose work continues to advocate for justice in Bayview-Hunters Point.

Finally, I want to express my deep gratitude to Autodesk for making this contest possible. Competitions like this give students like me the chance to not only explore our skills in architecture and design, but to use those skills in a meaningful way. Knowing that this wasn’t just an assignment—but a real platform to share ideas that could impact the world—motivated me to give it my full attention and effort. Autodesk’s commitment to innovation, sustainability, and education made this experience feel bigger than the classroom. It felt like a step toward real change.

Thank you to everyone who helped me along the way—whether by teaching, listening, challenging, or believing in this project.