Professional Screwdriver

I designed this 3D printed screwdriver with the goal in mind of it being the best non-ratcheting and bit swap-able screwdriver. It has a smooth and fast rotating bottom knob for comfortable and quick screwing action. It features removable bit storage that pops in and out of the handle for quick changing of bits.

NOTE: There's around 50 images to this Instructable. Be sure to look at all of them, this is a very technical process.

A list of specialty things you'll need to get:

1. NEIKO 11403A Magnetic Bit Holder Set
2. https://www.amazon.com/NEIKO-11403A-Magnetic-Holder-Pieces/dp/B089N8XTTB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=319OTTEQLG4O4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.h8NXAv7ZEYBgsKFrxzAKBA.n1xiN7kcmlcaF4ckAouj4-5XutQAdBhCCBbjDagp8t4&dib_tag=se&keywords=B089N8XTTB&qid=1760821739&sprefix=b089n8xttb%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-1&th=1

1. NOTE: You can use any bit extender as long as its 3" or longer and has a outer diameter of 10mm or less. If it's less then 10mm, you may need to use glue.

1. 608 Steel Ball Bearing 8mm x 22mm x 7mm High Precision Rating Fidget Spinner Bearing
2. https://www.amazon.com/Antrader-Bearing-Precision-Rating-Spinner/dp/B07XD6PLV1/ref=sr_1_2?crid=GAOCMEMIY4OY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pOvbusbQ3v2x3jD_7Ay0kA.6G7kZBfq8pVzFiaBGd3xNo57EerQZuPcMencrjbuurg&dib_tag=se&keywords=%E2%80%8E%2BB07XD6PLV1&qid=1760821790&sprefix=b07xd6plv1%2Caps%2C75&sr=8-2&th=1

1. Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease
2. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1TJB2WC29TWST&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fnN9pz5sNN5rQhes6XIeLQ.ewhs5skNX935x35xN72PWcAnVwhWN1kkKaicuGua9hI&dib_tag=se&keywords=B000XBH9HI&qid=1760821821&sprefix=b000xbh9hi%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-3&th=1

1. NOTE: You can probably use any grease or non liquid lubricant if you already have some.

1. Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets, 20x2mm, Silver, Round
2. https://www.amazon.com/Magnets-Refrigerator-Neodymium-Whiteboard-Kitchen/dp/B0CXSC4BTK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=347BAF2Y7RT3V&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gc52ydqcRqWsHBHNPRtScw.9m5BQ3ISE_uCACIeR2j7BJYK2CWKWaxs_kKfuUOM-3k&dib_tag=se&keywords=%E2%80%8E%2BB0CXSC4BTK&qid=1760821850&sprefix=b0cxsc4btk%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-1&th=1

1. Gorilla Micro Precise Super Glue Gel
2. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-112010-Micro-Precise-2-Pack/dp/B0CTHY7QTY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DCDS0S6I55KM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AX_2ytwXNrCbh8RhqNemoA.xAz1lqC_RsAkQsoET6-T5Phmi3QYGwE7kOcUSLYpo-s&dib_tag=se&keywords=B0B5YHL18C&qid=1760821892&sprefix=b0b5yhl18c%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-2&th=1

A list of other things you may have on hand or need to get:

1. x2 M3 x 20mm Hex Socket Head Cap Screws
2. Hammer
3. Acetone
4. Oil (optional. Probably any type of oil meant for metal parts should work)
5. Cotton Swabs
6. Paper Towels
7. 2.5mm Hex L-Shaped Allen Wrench
8. 2.5mm and 3mm Drill Bits
9. Drill
10. Needle Nose Pliers (or something flat)
11. Scissors
12. Between 400 Grit and 1000 Grit Sandpaper (results will vary)
13. Razor Blade (optional)
14. Sharpie or a Marker
15. Disposable Gloves (optional)
16. TPU Filament (semi-optional). The two TPU gaskets are made for noise reduction from the storage bits when using the screwdriver. If not using TPU, you can print the one gasket in regular filament for under the hex bit storage part and it should work out. Might be a tight fit.
17. 1/4" Bits for the screwdriver. I recommend impact driver bits. They seem to last longer.

Here's pictures off all recommended build plates. I used 30% infill for all parts and no supports for the first 3 build plates. The 4th build plate I then enabled supports for one of the pieces. The last build plate has the two TPU gaskets, printed at 100% infill. If you don't have TPU or want to get a roll, you can just print the one piece with the smaller hole in your preferred filament.

Good luck!

Align and loosely insert the hex pattern of the bit extender into the hex hole in the handle. Place the handle right side up on a very flat surface and hammer the bit extender down into it until it's fully seated into the handle. This may take a large amount of force or a good amount. It seems to differ based on what brand/color/type of filament you use. A fully seated extender should measure very close to 4" exposed. WARNING: You should hear the hammering sound change when the extender is fully seated. Continuing to hammer after this will bulge or break through the inside of the handle. Monitor this carefully as you near the 4" mark.

Attach the now secured extender into a drill and tighten. Use the drill to rotate the handle as you sand with a piece of 400 grit (or higher) sand paper with thumb or finger pressure. The top of the handle is sometimes a little rough and you can lightly use a razor blade or sand paper while you rotate with the drill. Be careful of the direction it's rotating if using the razor blade. It should be used for scraping, not cutting. Sharp edge away.

Stack two magnets together and clean the top surface with acetone and a cotton swab. Apply a good dab of super glue gel on the top magnet. Push down and swab off the excess glue. Flip around and press down on a flat surface hard until the rest of the excess comes out. Swab off the excess glue again and also clean off your table surface. Acetone can dissolve not fully cured super glue, so use this to remove all excess residue. Stack the last magnet on after 5 minutes and mark with a sharpie or marker.

Remove the top magnet from the glued in ones and place on top of the magnet installer tool. With the marked side up, put a good dab of glue on the center of the magnet. Push the handle down fairly hard onto the magnet and it should glue itself into the handle. Be sure to be as straight as possible. The magnet may jump into the handle on the last few mm away as it's attracting itself to the bit extender. Clean out the excess glue with cotton swabs and acetone. Place handle assembly upside down (on the small end of the bit extender, magnet exposed towards ceiling) and put off to the side. Don't knock it over.

Properly size all holes on parts with the drill. 2.5mm for the tube, 3mm for the rest of the parts.

Have all parts ready as shown in picture 1. You can add a drop of oil to the bearing to reduce noise. I used silicone fluid. Motor oil would probably work too. Loosely assemble parts as shown in picture 3. Both of the larger printed parts have collars that should slide/fit/lock into the bearing, keeping it centered. I add a small amount of glue onto the base of the screw just before I screw the assembly into the tube, shown in picture 4.

Secure the tube INTO the drill and tighten it down. Screw the bearing assembly into tube as tightly as you can without stripping out the tube. Remove the assembly from the drill and test that the bearing still spins freely. *Add a few small dabs of glue onto the plate as shown in picture 6. Press the larger holed gasket down with needle nose pliers or something else flat.* If you didn't print the TPU gasket, skip that last little bit. You should have an assembly that looks like the last picture (potentially minus the black part).

Clean the outside surface of the bearing with cotton swabs and acetone. Adds dabs of glue shown in picture 2. Quickly press the bearing assembly into the bearing holder as far down as it goes. You should have a gap between the plate and bearing holder. Let dry for 10 minutes or so. The two halves should spin freely of each other with a sort of fidget spinner speed. Maybe not that fast, but still decent.

Have all parts ready. Stack parts shown in picture 2 on your 2.5mm Allen wrench. Add a small dab of glue on the base of the screw shown in picture 3.

Grab onto the center tube of the bearing holder assembly and screw the knob assembly on as hard as you can, without stripping out the tube.

AFTER WAITING AT LEAST 10 MINUTES AFTER THE LAST MAGNET GLUE WAS APPLIED, you can now insert the assembly into the handle. Assuming you followed the magnet marking and gluing instructions, the assembly should stick right on in there and spin. But, it won't spin well.

The gray color band is what rides on the inner handle surface, and those surfaces are still rough. From here, use both your hands and force-ably rotate the assembly to grind some smoothness into all the contacting surfaces. Do this for like 5 minutes until it's noticeably better. Little plastic fluff will come off during this time. Blow it out and keep going. After you're done with that, fully remove all dust or fluff.

Add some lubricant (picture 5) to the closes part of the inner handle, and use a cotton swab to make a ring of lubricant, shown in picture 6. Force-ably rotate the assembly for another 5 minutes until it feels way better. When you're satisfied with the rotational smoothness, wipe off the excess lubricant with a paper towel and cotton swabs. Put back together and it should rotate nicely and spin fairly freely.

Load up your favorite bits and have fun screwing.