Pretty Patterned Cutting Board

Use leftover scrap pieces of hardwood in your shop to make a pretty cutting board.

You will need the following tools: table saw, planer, biscuit joiner (optional), router table (optional), circular or palm sander, and clamps.

Various hardwood boards or scraps, 3/4" strong by 16 to 18 inches long; 8 by 20 inch plywood or MDF; wood glue; #10 biscuits (optional); mineral oil/butcher block oil

First, cut a number of different colored hardwood boards. My scrap pieces varied between 18 and 42 inches long, so I trimmed all boards to 18 inches. The width of all the boards varied but should add up to between 12 to 18 inches. I had cherry, maple, and walnut boards.

Cut a 8 by 20 inch MDF or plywood board into two pieces along the diagonal. The exact dimensions are not very critical, you are just creating the angle for the cutting board pieces.

Lay out the hardwood boards along the edge of the MDF/Plywood cauls as shown. Arrange the different hardwoods in a pleasing pattern. Number or mark the boards for future reference.

While lined up draw a line across the centers of the hardwood boards. See pictures.

Now use a biscuit joiner to cut #10 biscuit slots in each board, using the center-line from the previous step for alignment. Because of the angle, the slots are slightly offset on each side of the boards. If you don’t have a biscuit joiner, drill 1/4” holes and insert short dowel pieces to keep the boards aligned.

This step is very important to prevent the boards from sliding around during the glue-up. I know this first hand!

Don’t cut a slot on the two outside edges.

Put four ‘stopper’ screws into the MDF/Plywood cauls to prevent the assembly from sliding around when you clamp down. Don't skip this step as it really helps! Glue-up the hardwood boards with biscuits for alignment; and the MDF/Plywood cauls to help align your clamps. The pictures should illustrate how to do it. Clean up any glue squeeze-out and leave clamped to dry for at least 4 hours.

After the assembly has dried, lightly plane both sides to get them flat. Don't finish-plane and sand yet since you have more gluing to do. Then cut off the two jagged edges on the table saw.

Next, cut the assembly into six 2.5 inches wide strips. Number the strips for future reference.

Arrange the strips into a pleasing pattern for your cutting board. You may flip each other strip to create a chevron or herringbone pattern. Put narrow strips in between for contrast if desired. A few examples are shown. I decided on the first design using four of the diagonal strips and three spacer strips from 'wormy' maple. The resulting cutting board will be about 16" by 13".

I have two extra diagonal strips which I am going to use for another cutting board.

Strongly recommended: Since you are gluing end-grain you should use two to three biscuits on each joint when putting together your cutting board. Makes it a lot stronger and durable.

Be patient and let the glue dry. Then surface plane and sand the cutting board. I use 100, 150, and 220 grid sand paper in sequence.

Straighten and square all edges of the board using the table saw.

For strength and looks cut a shallow groove (saw blade kerf) in the center of each edge of the board, and glue a contrasting spline into this groove. Trim the spline flush after glue dries.

Optional: On a router table cut a juice groove one inch from the edges.

Round the corners of the board. I use my corner markers (see my Instructable here) to draw the corner fillets and cut/sand to the line. Afterwards, round over (router table or by hand) all edges and finish sanding your board. Finish with food grade mineral oil or butcher block oil. I like to 'bake' the oiled boards outside in the sunshine to help the oil penetrate the wood.

When using the board re-oil/re-finish it with butcher block/mineral oil as needed to keep it in great shape!