Powerpuff Girls Mojo Jojo Cosplay Costume

Powerpuff Girls Mojo Jojo costume (left in image). To the right is my friend in a Powerpuff Girls Him outfit. You can find her here if interested in her costume.

I don't like hate having my picture taken but it was Comic-Con 2025 in London (May) and you have to expect people are going to want a photo. So if the guy who first asked if he could take my photo ever finds this, I'm profoundly sorry for saying no.

It quickly became apparent a lot of people were going to be asking for photos. A lot. So I temporarily got over my hatred of having photos taken. It has since resurfaced.

Why did I dress up then? Because I'd do anything for my friends and sometimes if life you need to be silly once in a while, or what's the point in living.

The costume was my first attempt at making anything physical. A lot can be improved upon. I'm a failed 3D modeller, I don't understand how to make things in the real world. This project was as much of a challenge to make as making my friend and everyone else smile.

I didn't take many pictures during the creation process. Don't think they would be much use anyway. A lot of the hard parts will be based on the persons physique. I'm 6'3, about 62kg at my last weigh in. Tall, thin, toned, kind of a unique fitting.

I'm going to start bottom to top. The higher you go, the harder things are to make!

Tools:

1. Heat gun
2. Printer
3. Safety pins
4. Scissors
5. Sewing needles (the thin ones)
6. Stanley knife

Materials:

1. Acrylic paint (I used Zieler, had good reviews and worked well)
2. 1x grey
3. 1x purple/violet
4. 1x white (optional, recommended)
5. Boots, white (wellies or similar, can be sprayed white)
6. Cardboard (stiff, thick, lots of, old packing boxes)
7. Cloth
8. 2 pieces of 1x1m blue (for tunic/dress)
9. 1 piece of 1x1 purple/violet (for cape)
10. Cotton Thread
11. 100m reel of any colour, bearing in mind it will be visible
12. Sewing needles
13. Safety pins
14. Felt sheets, purple/violet (or paint)
15. Gloves, white (flared gauntlets really)
16. Glue
17. Evo-Stik Multi-purpose Impact (instant contact adhesive) - or similar
18. Jeans, white (or trousers)
19. Metal wire coat hanger (optional)
20. T-shirt, black (I used a long sleeve, short sleeve may be better)
21. Twist ties
22. EVA Foam (10mm thick)
23. 1x, 90cm x 150cm sheet should be enough
24. As much as you can afford, assuming this will go wrong a few times
25. Cheap baseball cap
26. Velcro hat spacing strips
27. Makes the hat more comfortable
28. Especially if you get the measurements wrong
29. Kwik Seal Caulk (5 ounce squeeze tube)
30. To fill seams with the EVA foam (was recommended to me)
31. I would recommend clay as this method looked terrible
32. High grit sandpaper to sand the EVA foam filler
33. Long sleeve black t-shirt
34. Maybe short but the gorilla fur will rub against your arms
35. Gorilla fur
36. Green face paint (Snazaroo)

Optional 3D Printer:

1. Elegoo Mars 2
2. Light coloured or violet resin
3. I used grey because it was all I had and didn't want to spend money, can paint over it
4. Snap fasteners 15mm (poppers, optional)
5. Or/and more safety pins

I may have missed some stuff, there was a lot!

Required materials:

1. 1x pair of tall white boots
2. [optional] 1x can of white Plasti Dip spray
3. I'd recommend trying white spray paint, it's cheaper and will be more durable
4. Regardless of Plasti Dip or paint, I'd recommend light sanding for better adhesion

High white boots. Very hard to find if you're a guy. You may have to settle on wellies or food safety boots. I went with the latter.

I bought the pair attached, however the eBay seller sent me a different pair with a message about how they were sorry they didn't have these in stock. Whatever, that was the least of my headaches on this project

My ordered boots would have been almost perfect. All that needed to be done was cover up the red label on the side. However the boots I received had a blue area at the bottom which I did not like.

The Internet told me this was a job for Plasti Dip. They were wrong, as usual. Though the Plasti Dip did cover up the label and blue areas after a few layers, it has downsides.

I sprayed the boots a month before the event and it held up quite well. About 7 light coats were used. Looked great. The boots became dusty and I tried to clean them. This caused the Plasti Dip to start peeling. So I stopped. To get the boots to the venue I stored them in a bag which rubbed a little on the 200 mile trip. This caused more peeling. It wasn't terrible but I noticed it and that's the worst person who can notice.

I've been told a better solution would be to finely sand the boots, wash them down then use regular white spray paint. This creates better adhesion. Then again, I was told the same thing about Plasti Dip.

I don't have a picture of them finished. They were pure white. I've attached an imagine of what they looked like after the event. They looked better before.

Trousers or jeans. Personal preference. Need to be loose to baggy as they just look better. Golf trousers may work if you can bring yourself to buy then.

I went with white jeans. Which turned out not to be entirely white but were good enough. If making the costume again I would trying dying them a brighter white. Jeans might be wearable for other occasions, though... white jeans... not exactly fashionable.

When purchasing "white" trousers/jeans, be mindful that "white" does not necessarily mean "white". Light cream seems to pass for white these days. Also, ecru is not white.

I went with ecru because I wanted looser fitting jeans and the only "white" ones I could find were £15 more. Couldn't justify the price.

My jeans were white enough. Was happy with them.

To really make the outfit, gloves need to be flared at the cuff. There are some horse thing gloves which looked appropriate but were really expensive.

I found a pair of "Leather Long Cuff Bearers Gauntlets Piper Drummer Band Gloves Multiple colors"which did the job. They came flat packed so I stuff them full of paper to help shape them weeks before the event.

The attached is what I ordered and shockingly what I received.

It's not a dress, it's a tunic!

But it is.

This was the most time intensive part of the costume for me. If you have a sewing machine you could smash this out in a day. I hand stitched it. Multiple times because I have never made a costume before never sewn anything more than a pair of socks.

Underneath the tunic I wore a long sleeve t-shirt with gorilla fur sewn over the top. Was a little warm but not unbearable. A short sleeve t-shirt would work but the inside of the gorilla fur is very rough and might grate along skin. A full gorilla suit would have been a sauna.

Though not as technical as the hat was to make, this piece took a long time. Weeks. Literally. I had to sew, pick out the stitches then sew again multiple times on every piece. The costume was modelled on myself by myself, so I had to pin it together while wearing and hope it worked. Which it didn't. The final product was nowhere near as good as I wanted but it was good enough for a bit of fun.

The t-shirt was made to be modular. All the fur was attached by either poppers or safety pins. This meant I could remove them after the event and be wearing a plain black t-shirt. Sure, it had poppers on but these were hidden by an over-shirt. I changed in the lobby of a hotel because I only booked one night.

Step - Undershirt

A simple long sleeve black t-shirt with gorilla fur sewn along the arms.

Initially tried sewing the fur along the sleeve of the t-shirt. Which is why I bought a long sleeve. Gorilla fur is incredibly hard to sew. The thread keeps catching and it's impossible to see where the stitch lines are.

After unpicking multiple times, I decided to use my noodle. I wrapped the gorilla fur around my arm, left it a little baggy, using sewing pins to hold it in place.

The gorilla fur close to your hand will be covered by the gloves so doesn't need to be perfect or full length. The fur only needs to wrap up your arm at this point. Make sure it goes up to armpit and shoulder. Reminder you're also be wearing a tunic.

My gorilla fur arms were fitting around the armpit/shoulder area with a series of poppers (snap fasteners, 15mm) sewn on. Worked remarkably well and held up great. Not one came loose. 15mm

Once the tunic is finished, put the entire costume on and see which areas of the t-shirt need patching with gorilla fur. Will be minimal areas. By this point I was sick of sewing and used safety pins instead of poppers to hold them in place. Had the same effect; was modular for a quick change back to the train.

Step - Tunic

Brace yourself, this may make you want to quit the outfit. I found this incredibly difficult as I made everything myself. Which meant pinning and cutting fabric which I was wearing. Took a lot of time to make it fit. It still bunched and creased. It's just a little fun, deal with it. No one's expecting perfection.

The tunic is simply 2 pieces of blue cloth held together with stitching and 15mm snap fasteners. HA!

I guess the outline method to follow would be something like:

1. Use safety pins to hollow the neckline area together, leaving an area in the middle for your head
2. Cut a small hole where your head will poke through and try it on
3. If the hole isn't big enough, widen it a little, always aim for too small and widen later
4. Once your happy with the fitting, add a ton more safety pins to the neckline and shoulders
5. Do not sew anything until completely happy!
6. Put the tunic on then fold in the sides and use safety pins to hold them in place
7. Try bending over and twisting to make sure the seams hold
8. Don't leave it clown baggy, loose is better than tight
9. Once happy with the neckline and sides, begin final stitching
10. Switch the shoulders and neckline together, obviously removing the safety pins once complete
11. Sew snap fasteners down the side leaving as big a gap as you see fit, maybe 6cm-7cm
12. Put everything on and hope it fits
13. Or unpick your sewing and do it all again (I did)

Now you have a tunic and cape. Time to finish the shoulder areas; arm holes and some sort of lightweight pauldrons. These areas rely on each other and is dependent upon your physique. Just above the poppers, the cloth starts to fold in on itself for each piece, angling itself up to create a hole. This requires cutting the fabric so do it slowly and carefully. Can always cut more, can never go back

The pauldrons, creating a pointed broader shoulder, were constructed of left over EVA foam and lots of cardboard. Loose cloth at the top of the shoulder areas were folded up, glued and snap fastened to the pauldrons.

The pauldrons became a little uneven throughout the day. I'm not sure how to make them more stable. Perhaps a strap system? If creating a single use costume like I did, this was fine. Maybe add more padding than I did

One of the poppers did come un-popped a couple of times. It didn't make any difference to the structure or fitting and no one noticed. I left it un-popped.

The cape/tunic ended up as a single piece which would easily be put on and removed by the wearer.

Added bonus; I attached the cape last and used this to pull the pauldron areas closer together, adding rigidity. If the tunic was bunched up a little more under the cape then I think the pauldrons may have dipped less.

Step - Cape

Glue is not your friend. The cape was a last minute panic for me and I messed up the seams. No one said anything, everyone was so nice.

My cape fabric came almost the perfect length. I simple folder the edges by a couple of centimeters to make them stronger and hide some wonky cuts. These were sewn up. Nothing special.

The top of the cape was then sewn to the shoulder line of the tunic. 3 rows of switches were used as I was paranoid of it becoming caught and ripped off.

Even the folder sides of the cape looked fine and held together perfectly, the insides were frayed a little. This bothered me to point where I applied a very thing amount of PVA glue around the edges to stop them fraying. They didn't not fray anymore. However the glue did become a little visible later on. Kind of wish I didn't do that.

Step - Undershirt Part 2

With the undershirt and tunic fitted, you may want to add some fur to the neckline of the t-shirt.

I bought the cheapest gorilla fur on eBay. It didn't itch or tickle. Was nice and soft. The inside webbing doesn't feel great but that's why I used a long sleeve t-shirt. I took a risk in adding some all around the neckline and didn't even notice throughout the day.

The neckline fur, as with the shoulder fur, was attached mostly with snap fasteners. However I lost my temper while sewing and reverted to safety pins. They weren't visible. Save your sanity. Use safety pins.

Required materials:

1. 1x wide, white belt
2. Cardboard (from any old box)
3. Some leftover 10mm EVA foam would help
4. Will need a Stanley knife to cut
5. Purple felt fabric sheets
6. Evo-Stick Impact Adhesive (any strong glue)
7. Twist ties
8. Scissors

A belt was the final piece of the outfit I made. It didn't look great when I ordered it, didn't look great when it arrived but once assembled it brought everything together. Perfect.

The belt itself is a simple off-the-shelf. No way around this, has to be a woman's belt. I bought a tacky plastic belt from Amazon. It's 3 inches wide which I thought was way too small, give I'm 6'3. Was great.

A purple triangle is required on the front of the belt. By this point in the project I just wanted it finished so bodged together a quick fix. I had some left over 10mm EVA foam but stiff cardboard will work the same. Just need to hold the shape of a triangle and have a little depth.

To attach the triangle to belt I used some twist ties glued on to the back under a little more cardboard. The twist dies allow for some deviation in measurements. It didn't hold place very well but was a quick and cheap solution.

Steps (1)

1. Cut your EVA foam in to a triangle
2. Or thick cardboard
3. Mark the up direction on the EVA foam since it's a triangle and looks the same every way around
4. Cut a piece of purple felt to be slightly bigger than the EVA triangle
5. Glue the felt on to 1 face of the triangle
6. Cut some felt strips for the 3 sides of the triangle
7. Make them slightly larger in every dimension, they can be cut down later
8. Glue the 3 felt strips on the sides
9. Mark out positions for the twist ties to mount the triangle to your belt
10. Place the twist ties on the back of the triangle
11. Cut 2 small pieces of cardboard to fit over the twist ties
12. Put glue everywhere, sandwiching the twist ties between the triangle and the small cardboard pieces
13. Wait to dry
14. Put on belt
15. Attach to belt

There are many different approaches to the hat. All dependent upon how much you want to spend and what materials you're comfortable with.

I decided to use EVA foam. 10mm thick. This worked well for the cylindrical part but was hard to flex over the convex top. Buying thinner foam wasn't an option for me due to budget. Maybe a thinner foam over the top would be easier to flex.

The Core of the hat is a cylinder and dome formed from EVA foam. Decorations around the front are a combination of foam and 3D printed orbs. The lines along the top are felt sheets. Inside the core cylinder is a baseball cap with lots of glue and some foam strips.

Yeah, the seams are visible. Did my best to hide them with Kwik seal and paint. Should have used modelling clay. Don't think I could have aligned things up any better, was at the limit of my abilities..

Steps - Hat Core - Cylinder

1. Find some spare cardboard and wrap it around your head to get a good measurement
2. ....or use a tape measure
3. Unfurl the cardboard and use that as a template to cut some EVA foam in to a cylinder
4. A baseball cap will need to fit inside it
5. The height of the cylinder is personal preference
6. I made mine way too high but it grew on me and people thought it was funny
7. Try to make it a couple of centimeters wider than your head as you don't want it rubbing
8. Foam hat fitting strips will be glued on later to make it fit securely
9. Make sure the height is correct then clue the seams together to make a cylinder
10. Leave to harden

Steps - Hat Core - Dome

1. Trickiest part of the whole costume
2. There are a few templates to choose from, this isn't what I used but is the only one I can find at the moment:
3. https://www.scribd.com/document/358456479/EvilTed-Foam-Dome-Pattern
4. The dome consists of 4 pieces, heat shaped, glue together then smoothed
5. These templates are for specific sizes and this hat is custom
6. Scale the design to your liking
7. Print out some tests and cut some prototypes with trash cardboard, this is how I saved wasting a lot of foam!
8. Will need some basic foam heat shaping techniques to complete this, with plenty of YouTube videos available to help
9. Once the dome has hardened, glue it to the cylinder

Steps - Hat Core - Inner

Before adding detail, we should check if the hat fits.

1. Take a baseball cap and cut off the brim so you're left with a dome
2. Place baseball cap in the center of the hat
3. As usual, this is personal preference
4. I put mine a few centimeters deep inside the hat so the cylindrical core rested further down my head
5. This meant the hat sat lower down which I liked, hiding the mess which is inside
6. Glue the baseball cap to the inside of the cylindrical core
7. If there are gaps, fill them with cardboard and more glue
8. Make sure it's comfortable, it should be a little loose
9. Leave to dry
10. Glue foam strips along the inside of the cylindrical core to create a snug fit

Steps - Hat Core - Filling and Finishing

With the hat constructed, fill in seams with Kwik Seal or modelling clay. Lots of YouTube tutorials on this. I found Kwik Seal to be terrible and ineffective. May be because I don't know what I'm doing?

Once filled, I have the hat a few coats of white spray Plasti Dip. It didn't make much of a difference but did hide some light scratches and made it a little glossier.

Steps - Hat Outer - Lower Area

The border at the bottom, which rises at the front, is more EVA foam. More cardboard was used to create the initial shape then the foam was cut. A little longer than the cardboard, always best to have some wiggle room, wrapped around the cylinder and cut down to fit.

The EVA foam was glued on with maybe 1cm overlap at the bottom. This was to hide the seam for the cylinder. It's all about hiding the inner areas underneath.

A total of 7 orbs were space out around the sides, glue on to the newly attached foam. I designed and 3D resin printed these myself. They're simple orbs, slightly hollowed to reduce weight. In total the orbs weighed about as much as the rest of the hat. The resin colour was grey and painted later on. Would have made more sense to use a purple resin but that would have cost more.

If you don't have access to a 3D printer then you'll have to wing this. Maybe paper mache?

Even with the best of gluexperts, there are going to be seams. I filled these with Kwik Seal. As with the core hat construction, I think you will have better luck with modelling clay.

Once everything was dry it was painted with acrylic paint. Grey for the surround, purple/violet for the orbs. Multiple coats.

Steps - Hat Outer - Upper Lines

These are cut from felt sheets. There is no method to it as such. Free hand some lines then cut the strips and glue in place. The sheets I bought came with glue, however I added Evo-Stik to increase adhesion.

Foam sheets are probably not going to be long enough to fit over the hat. What I did was cut them in to strips, using one side to create a template for the other.

Just put it on!

I don't like having my face painted so just did the neckline. Should have done the whole face. Do your whole face.

The best of friends. Someone who convinces you to walk through central London dressed as Mojo Jojo and you couldn't care less because it makes them smile.

Very hard to find.

Don't take them for granted.