Ply Again, Skateboard Made Entirely of Plywood

As a child, I always dreamed of making my own skateboard and riding it. That dream stayed with me, and recently, I was lucky enough to find the perfect opportunity to bring it to life. Through the Khashaby Residency Program, I gained access to Fab Lab Egypt, where I found not only the necessary tools and machines but also materials and learning sessions that helped me navigate the world of woodworking. With their support, I set out to build a skateboard entirely from plywood—a unique twist on the traditional maple construction.

To achieve the classic skateboard shape, I needed to design a mold that would allow me to bend the plywood in two directions:

1. Longitudinal Bending – This type of bending shapes the tail and nose of the skateboard, giving it the upward curves needed for tricks and maneuverability.
2. Widthwise Bending (Concave Curvature) – This creates the concave shape across the width of the skateboard deck, which improves control and foot grip while riding.

To accomplish this, I designed a two-part mold: one for the tail and nose lift and another to create the concave shape. The mold needed to be strong enough to hold the plywood in position while the glue dried, ensuring it retained its curved shape.

With the mold design ready, the next step was cutting the plywood pieces for both the mold and the skateboard deck.

1. Cutting Plywood (12 mm) for the Mold

The mold needed to be strong and precise to create the right curves for the skateboard. I used thick plywood sheets, cutting them into layers that would be stacked to form the mold’s shape.

1. Cutting Method: Since a laser cutting machine was available, I used it to achieve precise and clean cuts. However, a jigsaw or bandsaw could also be used for this step.
2. Finishing Touches: After cutting, I sanded the edges to ensure smooth transitions between the layers.

2. Cutting Plywood for the Skateboard Deck

For the skateboard itself, I selected thin plywood sheets (3 mm) that could be laminated together to form a strong yet flexible deck.

1. Marking the Deck Shape: I used a template to outline the skateboard on the plywood.
2. Cutting Options: While I used a laser cutter for accuracy, a jigsaw would also work well for shaping the deck.
3. Final Adjustments: After cutting, I lightly sanded the edges to refine the shape before moving to the pressing step.

After cutting the plywood pieces for the mold, the next step was to assemble them into a solid structure. Since the mold needed to withstand pressure during the bending process, I ensured that all parts were securely attached using wood glue and additional reinforcements.

1. Layering and Gluing the Mold Parts

1. The mold consisted of multiple plywood layers, stacked to create the required concave and tail/nose bends.
2. I applied wood glue evenly between each layer to ensure strong adhesion.
3. To keep everything aligned, I used clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue dried.

2. Reinforcing the Structure

1. Since the mold would endure high pressure while shaping the skateboard, I added screws at key points for extra strength.
2. I left the glued mold to dry for at least 24 hours to ensure a firm bond before moving on to the next step.

With the mold fully assembled and hardened, it was ready to be used for pressing the skateboard layers into shape!

To make the plywood flexible enough for bending, I needed to soften it first. Since I didn’t have access to a steam system, I used boiled water instead. This method worked well for achieving the necessary flexibility before pressing the wood into the mold.

1. Soaking the Plywood with Boiled Water

1. I heated water until it reached boiling temperature.
2. Using a brush and cloth, I applied the hot water evenly across the plywood sheets, focusing on the areas that needed the most bending (tail, nose, and concave).
3. The hot water helped loosen the wood fibers, making the sheets more pliable for shaping.

2. Pressing the Wet Plywood into the Mold

1. Immediately after soaking, I placed the wet plywood onto the mold.
2. I applied pressure using clamps to ensure the wood took the shape of the mold.
3. The plywood remained under pressure for 24 hours, allowing it to dry and retain its curved shape.

Once dried, the plywood held its form, and the skateboard deck was now taking shape!

Now that the plywood sheets had been successfully bent and dried in the mold, the next step was to laminate them together to create a strong and durable skateboard deck.

1. Choosing the Right Layers

1. I used five layers of plywood, each 3mm thick, to achieve the right balance of strength and flexibility.
2. The thin layers allowed for easy bending while maintaining structural integrity when glued together.

2. Applying the Wood Glue

1. I spread an even layer of wood glue between each sheet, making sure to cover the entire surface to avoid weak spots.
2. A roller or brush helped distribute the glue smoothly across each layer.

3. Pressing the Layers in the Mold

1. Once glued, I placed the stacked plywood sheets back into the mold, aligning them carefully to match the skateboard shape.
2. I applied strong pressure using clamps, ensuring a tight bond between the layers.
3. The deck was left in the mold for at least 24 hours to allow the glue to fully cure and harden.

After drying, the laminated deck was solid, holding its curved shape and ready for the next steps of shaping and finishing!

After the laminated plywood had fully dried and taken its final shape, it was time to cut out the skateboard deck.

1. Marking the Skateboard Shape

1. I used a template to outline the skateboard shape onto the laminated wood.
2. A pencil or marker helped ensure precise lines for cutting.

2. Cutting with a Jigsaw

1. I used a jigsaw to carefully cut along the marked outline.
2. To keep the edges smooth and accurate, I took my time and followed the curves precisely, especially around the nose and tail.
3. For tight curves, I made small relief cuts to prevent the wood from splintering.

3. Smoothing the Edges

1. After cutting, I used sandpaper and a file to refine the edges and remove any rough spots.
2. This step was important for both aesthetics and safety, ensuring a clean, professional look.

With the skateboard deck now in its final shape, the next step was sanding and finishing to prepare it for riding!

With the skateboard deck now cut and shaped, the next step was to drill precise holes for attaching the trucks. Proper alignment was crucial to ensure a balanced and stable ride.

1. Marking the Truck Holes

1. I used a standard truck mounting template to mark the positions of the holes.
2. Each truck requires four holes, making a total of eight holes on the deck.
3. I double-checked the alignment to ensure the trucks would be positioned evenly.

2. Drilling the Holes

1. I used a drill and a 5mm drill bit to create the holes.
2. To avoid splintering, I placed a scrap wood piece underneath while drilling.
3. I made sure to drill straight down to keep the holes clean and aligned.

3. Finishing the Holes

1. I lightly sanded the edges of the holes to remove any roughness.
2. This helped the hardware fit smoothly without damaging the deck.

With the holes drilled, the deck was now ready for the final finishing touches before assembling the complete skateboard!

With the deck fully shaped and drilled, the next step was to enhance its appearance and protect the wood using dye and sealer. This step not only made the skateboard look better but also improved its durability.

1. Dyeing the Wood with Walnut Pebbles

1. Instead of using commercial wood stains, I used walnut pebbles as a natural dye.
2. I soaked the walnut pebbles in hot water to extract the dark brown color.
3. Using a brush or cloth, I applied the walnut stain evenly across the deck, bringing out the natural wood grain.
4. I let the dye dry completely before moving to the next step.

2. Applying a Wood Sealer

1. To protect the deck from moisture and wear, I applied a wood sealer (such as clear polyurethane or wood varnish).
2. I used a soft brush to apply thin, even coats, allowing each coat to dry before adding another layer.
3. The sealer gave the skateboard a smooth, polished finish while preserving the natural look of the plywood.

3. Light Sanding for a Smooth Touch

1. After the final coat dried, I used fine-grit sandpaper to lightly smooth out any rough spots.
2. This ensured a comfortable grip and a professional finish.

To give my skateboard a unique and culturally meaningful design, I used a vinyl cutter plotter to create stencils. My theme featured Umm Kulthum, an Arabic icon, as a tribute to our rich culture. Additionally, I added a personal touch on the back of the deck with the phrase:

🛹 "Game Over – Ply Again" 🎮

1. Cutting the Vinyl Stencils

1. Using a cutter plotter, I created a stencil of Umm Kulthum for the deck’s main graphic.
2. I also cut out the phrase "Game Over – Ply Again" to place on the back of the skateboard.

2. Applying the Vinyl to the Deck

1. I carefully placed the vinyl stencils onto the deck, ensuring smooth and firm adhesion to prevent paint from bleeding.

3. Spray Painting the Design

1. Once the vinyl was in place, I used white spray paint to cover the exposed areas of the deck.
2. I applied multiple light coats to ensure an even, smooth finish.

4. Removing the Vinyl Stencils

1. After the paint dried, I peeled off the vinyl, revealing the natural plywood color underneath in the shape of the designs.
2. This method created a clean and professional contrast between the wood and painted sections.