Pimp-Boy 3 Billion (wearable, ESP32 Coded, 3D Printed, Stop Motion Build)

My daughter and I built a fully functional Fallout: New Vegas Pimp-Boy 3 Billion and Pip-Boy Model 3000 complete with an ESP32 powered real-time clock screen, sensors, sound effects, MP3 Player, LEDs, and for the Pimp-Boy over 300 rhinestones for that +1 Charisma buff.

And because the Pip-Boy in Fallout always includes a clock, this build doubles as a wearable wasteland timepiece; perfect for the Clocks Contest.

Whether you want to track time, temperature, humidity, or your general level of radiological sass, this build has it all.

When the full series is finished, you’ll be able to build your own using the complete files:

1. Thingiverse (3D Files): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7162087
2. GitHub (ESP32 Code): https://github.com/Dadwithtowel/Pimpboy3billion-ESP32

Electronics

1. ESP32-WROOM-32 board
2. 4.0" SPI TFT Display (480×320, ST7796S driver)
3. DFPlayer Mini MP3 Module
4. SHT3X Temp/Humidity Sensor
5. 5-position 2P5T Rotary Switch
6. 8Ω 3W Mini Speaker (28mm)
7. 0402 pre-wired SMD LEDs
8. 220Ω resistors
9. USB power cable

Build Materials

1. PLA+ filament (any colour, final paint will cover it)
2. Super Glue (cyanoacrylate)
3. Leather or faux leather sheet
4. Masking tape
5. 2.5 cm (1 Inch) wide Velcro straps
6. Metal reinforcement rods (coat hanger wire)
7. Small 5mm magnets for clasping
8. Gold and silver spray paint
9. 300+ rhinestones
10. Clear double sided tape

Tools

1. 3D printer
2. Soldering iron
3. Soldering Iron Tip with M6 Heat Set Insert Tips
4. Dremel / rotary tool
5. Hot glue gun
6. Sandpaper: 80 / 120 / 220 / 400 grit
7. Scissors / craft knife

We printed 21 total components across both builds: the classic Pip-Boy 3000 and the high-charisma Pimp-Boy 3 Billion.

Print Settings

1. Material: PLA+ (strong, sands well, and won’t warp like ABS if you look at it wrong)
2. Layer height: 0.2 mm
3. Walls: 3
4. Infill: 15-20% (you don’t need power armor density)
5. Supports:
6. I used supports, but I'm not an expert printer

This video doesn’t show the printing itself; instead it covers how to assemble your raw prints into a solid shell ready for sanding and painting.

Dry Fit First (Vault-Tec Policy: Measure Twice, Glue Once)

Before touching glue:

1. Lay out all printed parts for your variant (Pip or Pimp).
2. Check alignment of the cuff halves they should meet cleanly without forcing.
3. Test the screen housing fit inside the wrist opening.
4. Make sure hinge channels line up on both sides.

Maker Tip: PLA+ can shrink by 0.5%, so a light pass with a file can save you hours of frustration later.

Gluing the Body Together

We used cyanoacrylate (super glue) for all major joins.

It bonds PLA fast (sometimes too fast) so:

Tips:

1. Work in small beads, not long lines of glue.
2. Press and hold for 5 to 7 seconds
3. Wipe away "squeeze out" instantly. Hardened CA is harder than Deathclaw armor.

“Super glue: because duct tape can’t fix everything… just almost everything.”

Assembly Check (Before Moving On)

Make sure:

1. Both cuff halves are securely glued
2. Screen housing is aligned and flush
3. Shell is rigid, not flexing
4. No visible gaps that will haunt you during sanding

If it looks like a Pip-Boy now, you’re good.

If it looks like a Brotherhood of Steel repair job… redo the joins.

With the printed parts assembled, it’s time to turn rough 3D prints into something worthy of a Wasteland wanderer or, in the Pimp-Boy’s case, New Vegas royalty.

Sanding (Coarse to Fine Grit)

Sanding is the “fetch quest” of prop-making; not glamorous, but absolutely necessary.

Recommended grit progression:

1. 120 grit this knocks down layer lines and seams
2. 220 grit this will smooth out the surface
3. 400 grit and this one preps for primer
4. (Optional) 600+ grit if you want a smoother metallic finish

Maker Tips:

1. Keep sanding motions long and even to avoid creating dips.
2. Don’t sand the interior contact points where electronics or leather will go, you want those to stay aligned.
3. A sanding block helps keep edges crisp and straight.
4. PLA+ dust is safe'ish but still wear a mask.

Priming (Optional but Recommended)

Primer helps the metallic paint stick and hides imperfections.

1. Use a filler primer for best results.
2. Two light coats is WAY better than one heavy one.
3. Let dry completely before painting impatience is the #1 cause of “why does my Pip-Boy look like I painted it in a dust storm?”

Painting the Pimp-Boy (Gold Finish)

The Pimp-Boy 3 Billion needs charisma, so we used a gold metallic spray for the outer shell:

1. Spray in smooth sweeping passes starting off the project and ending off the project.
2. Rotate around the piece to avoid missed angles
3. Avoid overspray, gold is powerful, but it shouldn’t look like Chet’s shop inventory exploded

Vault-Tec Wisdom: “A shiny accessory increases Charisma by +2, confidence by +4, and envy from NCR troopers by +10.”

Painting the Pip-Boy 3000 (Silver/Steel Finish)

For the Pip-Boy 3000, stick to a weathered metallic look:

1. A matte or satin metallic gray works best
2. You can mist with a darker coloured metalic to add depth
3. Save the full weathering pass for your final detailing step

Let Dry (The Hardest Step)

Give everything plenty of time to cure, seriously don't rush the drying, especially before handling.

If you rush this step, your fingerprints become permanent lore.

With the paint dry and the surface shining, we’re finally ready to bring this Pip-Boy to life; one wire, one LED, and one EXP point at a time.

In this step, we wire the electronics that make the Pip-Boy 3000 and Pimp-Boy 3 Billion actually work.

This includes installing the ESP32, TFT screen, DFPlayer Mini, SHT3X sensor, LEDs, and the 5 position rotary selector switch.

This step is shown in the video through a combination of stop motion, timelapse, and pinout references, but here is the full written breakdown.

Electronics Used in This Step

1. ESP-WROOM-32 (ESP32 dev board)
2. 4.0″ 480×320 TFT display (ST7796S SPI)
3. DFPlayer Mini MP3 module
4. SHT3X temperature & humidity sensor
5. 0402 pre-wired SMD LEDs
6. 8Ω 3W mini speaker (28mm)
7. 5-position 2P5T rotary switch
8. 220Ω resistors for LEDs
9. Lots of patience
10. A bit of Wasteland luck

Before You Start (Important!)

1. Trim the TFT boards
2. The TFT screen must be dremeled slightly to make room for the rotary dial.
3. Pre-bend the pins
4. Using pliers, gently bend the TFT, DFPlayer, and ESP32 pins to 90° where required.
5. This allows everything to sit flush against the housing.
6. Tin your wires
7. A tiny bit of solder on each wire end makes the build 100x cleaner and makes it easier

ESP32 to TFT Screen Wiring (SPI)

Your screen’s pinout may vary slightly, but this is the common ST7796S SPI mapping:

TFT Screen Pin to ESP32 Pin

1. VCC -> 3V3
2. GND -> GND
3. CS -> 5
4. RST -> 23
5. DC -> 2
6. MOSI -> 13
7. MISO -> 12
8. SCK -> 14
9. LED (backlight) -> 3V3

Maker Note: If your screen flickers, double-check the GND and LED pins first.

9/10 times it’s those little rascals.

DFPlayer Mini Wiring

DFPlayer Pin to ESP32 Pin

1. VCC -> 3V3
2. GND -> GND
3. TX -> RX2 (U0RXD)
4. RX -> TX2 (U0TXD)
5. SPK+ / SPK- ->Speaker leads

Important:

The DFPlayer Mini must share ground with your ESP32 or it will behave like a drunk Mr. Gutsy.

SHT3X Sensor Wiring

SHT3X Pin to ESP32

1. VIN -> 3V3
2. GND -> GND
3. SDA -> GPIO 21
4. SCL -> GPIO 22

Installing the LEDs

-The tiny 0402 SMD LEDs light the gauge, radio dial, and indicator areas.

Wiring Notes:

1. Each LED has a 220Ω resistor inline
2. Solder the resistors to ESP32 GPIO pins 12, 13, 14
3. Test every LED before closing the housing
4. If an LED stops working, it’s usually not broken; it’s judging you because you forgot ground

Rotary Selector Switch Wiring

-A simple 2-pole 5-throw switch maps each position to a different ESP32 input, controlling:

1. Radio
2. Clock
3. Temp/Humidity
4. Inventory
5. Status screen

You can adjust your pin choices, but common mappings are:

Switch Position to ESP32 Pin

1. 1 -> GPIO 32
2. 2 -> GPIO 33
3. 3 -> GPIO 25
4. 4 -> GPIO 26
5. 5 -> GPIO 27

“One dial to rule them all.” -Vault-Tec, probably.

Speaker Install

Attach directly to SPK+ and SPK- on the DFPlayer Mini.

The 28mm speaker fits perfectly inside the Pip-Boy housing.

Tip:

A small pice of double sided sticky tape removes rattling.

Testing Everything Before Closing

Before you screw the body shut:

1. Confirm the screen initializes
2. Test every rotary switch position
3. Make sure the DFPlayer plays the Nuka Cola jingle (optional but highly recommended)
4. Check all LEDs
5. Tug each wire gently to confirm solder strength

If something doesn’t work: Don’t panic. Even Vault-Tec prototypes failed their first field test.

In this step, we upgrade both the Pip-Boy 3000 and the Pimp-Boy 3 Billion with the interior comfort and exterior flair they deserve.

We install the faux selector dial, the Geiger counter dial, line the interior with faux leather, and for the Pimp-Boy variant add over 300 rhinestones.

This step combines stop-motion and timelapse sequences to show the detailing process clearly.

Faux Dial Assembly (Selector and Geiger Counter)

Both devices use decorative dials that give the front face their iconic “Fallout tech” look.

Materials

1. 3D-printed selector dial
2. 3D-printed Geiger counter
3. Small center screw for rotation (optional)
4. Super glue
5. Fine-grit sandpaper (optional, for smoothing edges)

Process

1. Sand the edges of the dials if you want a cleaner look.
2. Align each dial with its mount point.
3. Glue into place with a tiny drop of super glue; you want it secure but not oozing.
4. Hold in place for a few seconds.

Maker Tip:

If you want them to spin freely, use a tiny screw.

If you want them locked in place, use super glue.

Leather Interior (Comfort Perk +1)

Faux leather gives the device a comfortable, premium interior finish and also hides interior seams from the 3D print.

Materials

1. Faux leather sheet
2. Masking tape
3. Fabric scissors
4. Super glue

Template Method (Vault-Tec Approved)

Instead of eyeballing curved cuts:

1. Place masking tape directly inside the cuff.
2. Press the tape into corners and curves so it forms a perfect template.
3. Peel it off in one piece; this is your pattern.
4. Stick the tape onto the leather sheet and cut along the lines.

Maker Tip:

Masking tape templates beat ruler measurements every time.

They’re accurate, fast, and nearly error proof just like a Vault-Tec experiment (on paper).

Installing the Leather

1. Apply a thin, even layer of glue inside the cuff.
2. Press the leather down starting from one edge.
3. Smooth out wrinkles by working toward the opposite side.
4. Trim any excess after the glue sets.

Rhinestone Install (Pimp-Boy 3 Billion Only)

The part of the build where your inner Caesar’s Legion scout says ‘too flashy’ but your inner Benny says ‘perfect.’

The Pimp-Boy features 300+ flatback rhinestones arranged in multiple symmetrical patterns across the housing.

Materials

1. 300 to 330'ish rhinestones (3 to 4 mm)
2. Clear super glue
3. Tweezers
4. Patience

Process

1. Start with the center column this anchors the whole pattern.
2. Apply glue to small sections only; rhinestones dry fast.
3. Use tweezers to place each stone precisely.
4. Rotate the device frequently to check symmetry.
5. Continue filling the outer edges and curves.

Maker Tip:

Don’t overglue. A tiny dot is all you need, too much and the sparkle looks cloudy instead of clean.

Officially increases Charisma by +5, and increases envy from NCR troopers by +10.

With the electronics installed and the interior leather finished, it’s time to bring everything together; cuffs, hinges, straps, magnets, screws, and the last sparkle pass for the Pimp-Boy.

Final Prep: Laying Out the Parts

Lay out the three main components:

1. Top cuff (with leather interior)
2. Bottom cuff
3. Screen and electronics housing

And set aside:

1. Two metal reinforcement rods
2. Four strips of Velcro
3. One hinge pin wire
4. Magnets
5. Four decorative screws

Everything in the Wasteland is better when pre-sorted. Except maybe deathclaws.

Reinforcing the Strap Slots (Optional but Recommended)

The Velcro straps will put constant stress on the printed cuff.

So before installing them:

Add metal reinforcement rods

1. Place the rods inside the strap channel
2. Tape them down with fabric tape to lock them in place
3. They’ll help spread the load and prevent cracking

Maker Tip:

PLA will fatigue faster than a settler with no bed.

Reinforcing now saves heartbreak later.

Installing the Velcro Strap System

- inserting the strap ends, and creating the wrap-around closures.

A. Insert the main straps

1. Feed two Velcro strips through the reinforced slots
2. Teeth side facing outward
3. Press their adhesive sides together to form secure anchor tabs inside the cuff

Freeze frame check:

You should see clean, centered straps ready to receive the wrap-around bands.

B. Create the wrap-around closures

1. Add the second pair of Velcro strips
2. Fuzzy side facing inward (toward the wearer’s arm)
3. Teeth side outward to grab onto the fuzzy side as it wraps around the wrist

This forms the actual wearable wrist closure.

Installing the Screen and Electronics Module

1. Thread the USB cable through the top cuff
2. Seat the screen module into its cavity
3. Align the screw holes
4. Secure using two interior screws

Keep the pressure light PLA doesn’t like being treated like power armor plating.

Joining the Cuff Halves (Hinge Installation)

Use your metal wire as the hinge pin:

1. Align the hinge loops
2. Slide the pin through until centered
3. Open/close the Pip-Boy to test movement

If it swings cleanly, your hinge passed its SPECIAL endurance check.

Installing the Magnetic Clasp

These magnets create the iconic click shut moment.

Process

1. Use a soldering iron to melt small recesses
2. Drop magnets into place while the plastic is soft
3. Install the matching polarity pair on the opposite cuff
4. Let cool fully before closing

Maker Warning: Magnets installed backwards will repel harder than a Super Mutant smelling Fancy Lad Snack Cakes.

Decorative Screw Installation

These four screws are cosmetic only, but complete the Pip-Boy’s iconic look.

1. Rotate the unit to expose the top plate
2. Drop screws into position
3. Tighten flush to the surface

If you hear crunching, stop that’s the sound of future regret.