Personalized Paper Clock

There I was, sitting in my studio, completely up a stump for an idea on how to build a fun, creative clock. It had to be simple to build, require only 'standard' materials, and actually be something I would want to hang on my wall. I was starting to drown in all the crumpled up paper of my terrible ideas-- when it hit me. Not the paper. That didn't hit me. The idea hit me. I make a lot of stuff, but just lately I have been pretty busy making stop motion films. My studio is overflowing with neat bits and pieces, paper dolls, toy chickens, paper cows, miniature harmonicas-- you get the idea. And so did I. Who wouldn't want to design a clock whose sole purpose is to celebrate the things you love? I mean, any clock can tell time. What you need is a clock that, on every hour of the tick-tocking day, you look up and see things that make you smile.

Clock themes: Oh, my! It's never-ending, really! Use lightweight tools, puzzle pieces, postage stamps, toy cars, fancy keys, small pieces of stone, nuts and bolts, buttons, sewing things, conches, dollhouse miniatures, board game pieces, handmade paper flowers, print off some neat images (your own or open source) like tropical fish or cupcakes or classic cars. What is YOUR interest? That's your theme.

Working on a book report? Pick one character and design your clock entirely for that person. What did they need to get through the story? What did they learn along the way? What were their obstacles? OR, retell the story by each item you place on the clock, starting at 1:00 and working the plot around to 12:00.

Who can do it:

Roughly age 10 to adult.

(Younger builders can 'buddy build' with an adult, especially if you precut the materials for them and handle the hot-- or super-- glue. Pleeeease, keep your wee ones away from strong glue and the craft knife.)

Skills:

using a sharp knife, gluing, drilling a hole (or using a pokey stick thing), using scissors

Tools:

pencil

metal ruler (as a straight edge)

scissors

glue (quality stick, rubber cement, or 'tacky' to make paper stick)

glue (super or hot glue to make your gizmos stay put)

craft knife

Drill (with a bit to fit your clock stem, a scrap of wood, a clamp) OR a pokey object to make a clean hole

Supplies:

foam core (It's that poster board stuff with the Styrofoam in the middle. See the pictures.)

fun cardstock paper (enough to cover the face of the clock)

a clock mechanism (your favorite size) (You could even build around an existing plain clock.)

decorative gizmos of your choice (lightweight and small-- look around the house)

duct tape, decorative tape (OPTIONAL ONLY- some folks do love to decorate with tape)

this wire (OPTIONAL instead of using glue to attach the decorations)

NOTE:

WHERE TO BUY STUFF:

Many crafters will have everything already loitering about in their studio, just waiting for a chance to be useful. If you do need to purchase something, any craft or hobby shop will suit. DON'T pay a fortune for the foam core. Most five & dime (cheap) stores will sell a 2'x3' sheet for about $1.00.

THE CLOCK: The hardest part to find might be the clock itself. Again, craft shops are your friend. It is, of course, available online at your favorite '.com'. I happen to like cherrytreetoys.com. Buy whatever style and size suits your project. Keep in mind that really tiny projects will require some finesse and patience.

THE KNIFE: Sharp. Yep. Don't go for the butter knife. You need an exacto style blade or other sturdy, fine-tipped knife. Paper will snag and tear and do unspeakable things if it is forced to associate with a dull knife. It won't be pretty.

Mama said, "Read everything before signing anything."

I would like to give you the same sage advice. Before you start building your super amazing clock that will be the coolest thing you ever hung on your wall-- read through all of these directions. Otherwise, you may end up with a really super amazing collection of craft catastrophe best suited to cluttering up your studio while it waits to be useful in the next project.

Pretty handy? You can home in on the BOLD print.

Need more help? There are plenty of pictures and step-by-step.

The decorative gizmos you pick are, of course, entirely up to you. Keep them lightweight and small enough to fit comfortably on your clock face. Try the tool box, junk drawer, craft bin, toy chest, etc. Most of us have some neat things right at our fingertips. Do consider what type of glue you will be using. Some glue does not take to plastic, or metal, or whatever. Just read the label of your favorite 'sticky stuff' to be sure all your bits will stay stuck.

Collect some extra bits. I know, there's only 12 positions on a clock, but, as you layout your design, you may find that something doesn't quite fit, or maybe it looks off balance. Having a few extra pieces will give you room to be creative.

Tip:

Do be sure your gizmo selection will not inspire any members of your household to hunt you down. It is extremely difficult to explain to said feathered up individual exactly why their favorite trinket is now bathed in glue and stuck to your nascent clock. Words like, "See? Doesn't great-grandmother's wedding ring look great here?" will not help.

Pick a background that will accent your theme without overpowering your gizmos.

Consider what paper will show off your gizmos best. You could use a solid color or a wild pattern. If you are going with, say, toy trucks then maybe a simple map in the background. You could also do those trucks with a plain black background to really let the truck colors show, and use plastic toy construction pieces to decorate the outside edges of the clock. Whatever you choose, the paper MUST be strong enough to hold onto your decorative pieces. Most heavy stock 12"x12" craft type paper will be fine.

NOTE:

I have specified a background made of paper. You could, if you feel so inspired, cover the foam core with tape, fabric, ribbons, lace, go around and around with yarn, cover it in sandpaper-- you artsy folks will go your own way here. (For this instructable, though, I will demo with paper.)

Or, in this case, PLAN twice and cut once.

Take a few minutes to experiment with your layout. This may seem unnecessary, but it will help you avoid last minute scrabbling for one more gizmo, or trying to pry off things that were deliberately stuck on not to come off.

Just plop your background paper onto the table, place your clock mechanism right about where you plan to attach it (generally in the middle, but who knows:) and start placing your amazing gizmos. Bear in mind how large, or small, your final clock will be but DO NOT cut the paper or the foam core yet.

Move things around until you get a pleasing design. Do you like how the colors are balanced? Does this thing look good next to that thing? You could put an item at each hour, or you could plan to make a line at the hours and put the decorations around the outer edges.

NOTE:

Keep in mind, in order for your clock to hang straight, whatever you attach must be of equal weight between the left and right sides. For most objects, like buttons, this won't be a major issue. If, however, you decorate with a bunch of nuts and bolts on one side and-- say-- tissue paper on the other, your clock will hang crooked.

I used a 12"x12" piece of heavy craft paper for my background. My final clock will be this same size and shape, so no extra cutting was needed. Be sure to trim off that label along the edge (see picture).

If you want a different shape, or a smaller square-- this is the time to cut your PAPER into shape. I can't tell you what to cut here, it depends on your design. You might be cutting a circle, or a cloud, or a rectangle to make a strip of road. Just make sure that the final size works well with your clock size and your gizmos.

TIP:

If you want a trial run with your clock shape, cut out a piece of scrap paper first. Test your clock and gizmos on this and, if you're happy, then cut your real background.

Some thoughts on glue--

Before we start twisting tops off those sticky bottles, let's discuss how to get along with your chosen concoction of permanent adhesion. Glue has personality, and we need to be sure you 'red rover' (pick) the right one over to your team. There are many choices, go with the one you can control or just prefer.

We are about to stick your background paper onto the foam core, which is also coated in paper. Now, paper does not play well with liquid glues such as your basic white. I know, we all used it nearly everyday in grammar school. But think back and remember the mess. Yep. I see that 'ewww' look on your face. You remember. Too much of that stuff will make your carefully selected background paper soggy and cause it to buckle up-- or fall apart.

So, if you are using any white, 'tacky', squeezable liquid-- GO GENTLY. Dab a little glue and spread it with a cheap, firm bristled paint brush (or your finger). Don't drizzle a heavy stream and then smash the paper together. At the very least, your glue tracks will show right through the paper.

Using stick glue? Wonderful! You will have a lot of control with this application method. It can dry quickly, so you might have to glue part of your paper, and then glue up for the next half. Do be sure to use a high quality, acid free stick. Kiddie sticks are great for projects that will be loved to death in a week, but not so good when you want the glue to last.

Rubber cement? Excellent! Do be sure to spread the glue out and go easy on the quantity.

Super glue? This is not really your friend here. It may seep through your paper, leaving an ugly mark on the good side. If you are using this type, I suggest doing a teensy dab, hold the paper in place, move down a bit, and repeat. Take your time. Spreading a long line could give your glue time to dry before it ever meets your paper.

Hot glue? Could be done. Tends to have a lot of height that will show through your paper as tracks. Also tends to cool quickly, so you will have to either glue in parts, or move fast to attach the paper.

Spray adhesive? Hey, if you got it and the know how-- you know how :)

Double stick tape? A fine option! Mine wears out after a few months, so you may have to spot repair or maybe pick a good brand.

Just tape? You could go this route. Duct tape or that patterned craft stuff could be run around the edges of your paper and folded over the foam core, just like putting foil edging on stained glass. If you take this route, do glue or tape up the center of the paper where the clock pin comes through. Otherwise your paper will be loose in the center. (More on this later.)

Alright, ready with that glue? Excellent! Time to introduce the paper to the foam core.

Have your big sheet of foam core standing by. We will need it pretty quickly after we start gluing.

Apply glue to the backside of your background paper.

If you have any concerns about your paper crinkling up, glue only the outer inch or so all the way around. Also glue a spot about the size of a soda can bottom right where your clock pin will go. This will hold the paper down flat when the pin actually comes through.

If you feel your glue method or paper requires more full coverage, use your own discretion. Sometimes I add an X of glue from corner to corner. Just remember: you can always add glue, but it's hard stuff to put back in the bottle.

Now, line your sticky background paper up with one corner of the foam core. Even if you are using a different shape, go find an edge. (Working near the edges will conserve foam core for another project.)

BEFORE YOU SET THE PAPER DOWN, double check that it is exactly where you want it. If you are working with a square paper, line right up with the corner of the foam core. This will reduce the cuts you have to make and help your square look really straight.

Ready? Set the paper down by pressing from one edge clean over to the other edge. Start slowly and pay attention, watching for wrinkles. Then plant your hand right in the middle and hold it there. With the other hand, gently but firmly press all over the paper. Leaving one hand in place will help your paper not slide around.

You may need to smooth down the paper right along the edges as it dries, depending on the which glue you used and how much.

Now, wait. Yep. Just wait.

How long? Well, you don't need to brew up a fresh cup of tea, but this is a good time to grab a cookie. (I suppose you could snack on a carrot stick or 2 raw almonds, if that's your thing.)

While we wait for that glue, lets talk about the next step: cutting.

You and I haven't met in person, but I surely do like your fingers. I like them so much that I want to see all ten of them properly attached and looking good when this project is complete. To that end, here are 10 tips on safety and technique, one for each of those precious piggies:

1.Always know where your fingers are-- and do not let this be in front of the blade.

2.You must maintain control of the knife. Skinny blades, like an exacto, can wander off course very easily.

3.Let the tool do the work. Be firm in your cuts, but there's no need to get aggressive. You're cutting paper, not granite.

4.If your knife feels like you are tearing the paper, or you must push extra hard, the blade might be dull.

5.Your cut didn't go all the way through? No worries! Just gently go back and repeat the cut.

6.DO NOT TEAR a section free. DO recut it.

7.Keep your knife at a 90 degree angle to the foam core. This will give you a 'flat' edge, rather than a slope.

8.On the straightaways, use the length of the blade, not just the very tip. You can do this by angling the cutting edge down towards the table. This lets more of the blade do the cutting. (see blue pictures-- the wood is just there for clarity)

9.When you go around a curve, lift the blade up on its tippy-toes and then come back down for the straight bits. (see green pictures)

10.Don't get in a rush. This was one of the best bits of advice my woodworking teacher gave me. If you ignore all the other tips, pay attention to this one and things will still go well. Take your time.

Okay, go check on your glue. Is it dry? Really? You're sure? Wonderful! Next step. . .

So, our background is now stuck to a huge piece of foam core. Time to do some cutting!

Unless you put a black paper on top of black foam core, the edge of your paper should stand out very clearly. You are going to follow along this edge with the craft knife to cut the shape of your clock free.

Straight edges: whew! You get to use a guide. Line up a metal straight edge with the edge of your background paper. Get right up close. I put my knife on the edge of the paper first, then bring the straight edge over to meet it (see pictures). Hold the straight edge right there, and move to a spot near the other end of the paper. Line this up the same way. Double check that your straight edge is perfectly lined up. Yes? CAREFULLY, hold the straight edge firmly in place and pull your knife along the paper's edge, cutting through the foam core. The ruler might try to slide out of position; you need to press down fairly firmly. Go slowly and gently. If the first cut went well, go ahead and cut the other side using the same method.

Curves/freeform: making sure your fingers are not in the path of the knife, slowly cut around your shape. Stay as close as possible to the edge of your background paper. You can go back and cut off any little woobles that let the foam core show, but you will get the cleanest look if you cut accurately from the start. Take your time.

Your finished edges may have a few frizzy woobles. You know, bits of paper or foam that stick out like that one in my picture. Your first instinct may be to yank these unsightly frizzies right off. Don't do it!

"But they're ugly," you say.

Too true, but yanking will make them even uglier. Trust me. Cut them with your scissors. Or set the foam core back on the table and cut those bits off with your knife. Or ignore them.

If you really, really simply cannot resist plucking these little anomalies-- then tear them 'forwards'. If you tear back, you will be following along the rip line that's already started and you will make it worse.

So. . . the next step was not part of my original design. Yep. I was about to move along to attaching my gizmos, when the stark whiteness of the foam core grabbed my attention and would not let go. We played tug-of-war for a moment, and then I decided: that edge had to go.

For all y'all out there, that means the next step is entirely optional. You could skip it and move on, white edge and all, and no harm done. You could put decorative tape over the raw edge, or glue on something related to your design. Your call.

Now, me, I decided to wrap a contrasting paper over the edges, because I have a lot ready to hand. I think it will actually make my final clock look better than my original design. Isn't art fun that way :) So flexible!

If you choose to follow me on this left turn route, here's what I did (If not, skip to the next step):

We're going to turn four long strips of paper into four U-shaped pockets. (see pictures)

First: cut 4 pieces of accent paper about 1.75 inches wide and as tall as your clock edge (mine was 12").

You can make this wider or thinner as you see fit, just make sure it wraps all the way over your edge, AND gives you enough width to glue the paper down well. Too thin and the paper will fight to pop back up.

Second: Mark the first bend in the paper. I did mine at 1/2 inch.

Third: Tuck that 1/2 inch under a thin, strong straight edge, such as a ruler or over the crisp edge of a table.

Fourth: Pet the cat who has just leapt into the middle of your project to lend you a hand. Gently place her back on the floor before proceeding to step five.

Fifth: Hold the ruler down and start bending the paper up. The paper may fight back. Just give it the suggestion that it's time to bend. Work your way down the entire length of the paper strip.

Sixth: Repeat step five, bending farther this time. You now have a right angle that looks sort of like an L. Crease well.

Seven A: Pop this L shape onto the edge of your foam core. Tuck it right up close, just like it will be once it is glued into place. Be sure to hold the paper right there and then ease it over the white edge of the foam core. You might want a friend to help hold things in place. I pinned it down to the table. Clamps will dent your foam core. Once you have a pretty good rough draft here, take the paper off and really crease that fold well. I stuck it back on the ruler for the final crease. Be precise. It will be visible on the final project.

Seven B: For those of you just itching to use your ruler, instead of popping the L paper onto the foam core, stick your ruler along the wider side of that L and measure out the same width as your foam core. For me, that is 1/8". Make another mark down at the far end and fold (as you did with the first fold).

NOTE: Yes, you could have measured both fold marks at the same time, but suppose your first fold were to slip? That would throw off the second measurement. I find doing one at a time allows me to be tidier. Do what works for you :)

Eighth: Fold the remaining 3 strips in the same manner.

Ninth: Take your new trim for a test drive. Pop it on without glue and see what you think. Make changes as needed.

Tenth: Use your favorite glue and stick the trim on for keeps. I put the left and right on first, then came back on put the top and bottom pieces on. I let the top and bottom overlap the sides, but- if you can be very precise- you could trim off the very tips of the sides (where mine duck under). REMEMBER: if you over glue, there will be goo everywhere. Use just enough to keep the paper trim stuck. Depending on your glue, you may need to glue just one piece, hold it to dry, then do the next piece.

If you will be using a pointy stick to make the hole, work on the front of your foam core. Set a straight edge from corner to corner on the diagonal.

(As you can see, mine was too short to reach the corner. I used an edge on my leftover foam core.)

Make a tiny mark near the center, maybe 1/4 long at most. Set the straight edge on the other diagonal and make a second mark. You should now have an X pretty close to the center of your foam core. This is where the clock pin will go.

If you are going to drill the hole, I got a cleaner hole by drilling from the BACK side, so do your marking on the back.

NOTE:

If you don't have a square clock, this step won't help you much :) Go ahead and locate the best spot for your particular clock and design. Remember to think about how to balance things so that the final clock hangs the way you want.

Make a hole just big enough so that the clock pin fits snuggly.

"How?" you ask me.

"Depends," is my answer.

Method 1:

If you know how to set a piece of scrap wood into a clamp, select the correct bit and operate a drill-- well done, you! Go make that hole! FYI: a faster speed is less likely to tear the paper. Tidy up any 'frizz' created by the bit.

Method 2:

Not so sure about using power tools? This is not the best moment to experiment. For you lot, it's pointy stick time! Yippeee!!

Find something the same thickness as your clock pin. Might be a pencil, a chubby pencil, an awl, anything that has a pointy end and the right width. With your foam core sitting level on a table, slide the X just off the edge of said table. Carefully press your sharp pokey thing through the foam core right at the X you made. Go easy so you don't accidentally bend your foam core or stab your fingers.

Following the directions that came with your clock, undo whatever needs undoing. Insert the stem through your hole, and reassemble. Take a minute now to make sure your clock runs and all is well.

TIP:

My clock has a metal nut that cinches down against the foam core. Tighten this only enough to secure the clock. If you go too far, you will dent the foam core.

NOTE:

If you want to add anything to the arms, be certain that it is very lightweight and thin. This will allow the arms to turn as they should. Add whatever this is before permanently assembling the clock bits onto the foam core.

All that's left now is for you to attach those super cool gizmos you picked out. Lay them out one more time, just to make sure you like the composition. Happy? Slide them onto the table, in their proper order and, one at a time, start attaching your items. Make sure each one has time to dry after you glue it.

Which glue you should use depends entirely on what you are attaching. Many objects will be held on well with hot glue. Some may need super glue.

Remember that optional thin wire in the supply list? This is the place for it. You could wire each item onto the foam core. Just poke the wire right through and twist the wire in the back, just like a bread tie.

NOTE:

I didn't use them, but this is a good time to add lines at each hour if you want them. Draw them on with a marker or glue on a tiny slice of paper.

Congratulations! Go hang up your clock where you can look up and enjoy it.

If you make this project, please feel free to upload an image. Your creativity may inspire someone else!

Thank you for enjoying this instructable!