Patio Dining Table

My winter project this year was to build a patio dining table. I built the farmhouse-style base out of pressure treated wood in order to save a bit on cost, and put it on 3" castors to allow us to move it around easily. I built the top in two layers. The first layer is a pressure treated frame, which supports the herringbone pattern cedar top, made from cedar deck boards. For finishing, I lightly sanded the pressure treated wood and applied a cedar colored outdoor stain. This cleaned it up nicely. For the cedar top, I applied stain only to herringbone quadrants. I left the centre cross and trim natural for a nice contrast, and then applied multiple coats of spar urethane.

Base Assembly

(4) Pressure-treated 4x4x8

(2) Pressure-treated 2X4X8

(1) Pressure-treated 2x6x8

Tabletop Frame

(1) 2X6X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

(4) 2X4X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

Tabletop

(9) Cedar deck boards 5/4x6x12

Other Materials

(4) 3” Castors (4” Overall Height)

4” decking or exterior screws

2-1/2” decking or exterior screws

1-5/8” decking or exterior screws

2-1/4” pocket screws

Cedar Stain Spar Urethane

Material List

(2) 4X4X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

(2) 2X4X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

Cut List

Angled Leg Pieces as shown

(4) Vertical Leg Pieces - 2X4X21-1/2”

(2) Short Vertical leg pieces – (2) 2X4X8”

· Note: Now is a good time to cut the two upper Short Vertical leg pieces – (2) 2X4X8”

(2) Leg assembly bases – (2) 4X4X39”Cut all pieces to size as per the drawing.

Directions

Cut all pieces to size as per the drawing.

• Cut two additional short verticals for installation later.
• Notch the base pieces to allow for free movement of the castors.
• Chamfer the end of the base pieces at 45 degrees.

• Use a combination of 2” deck screws inserted straight and 4” deck screws inserted at an angle to attach the angled leg pieces to the long verticals.
• Using pocket screws, attach the short vertical leg to the leg assembly bases.
• Then attach the "K” shaped pieces to the bases with deck screws.

Material List

(1) 2X6X10 Pressure Treated Lumber

Cut List

(1) Horizontal Support Beam – 2X6X45”

Directions

Cut the horizontal support beam as shown in the drawing.

• Dry fit but do not secure or fasten at this time.
• During the dry fit, ensure the 2” overhang of the horizontal beam on each end.
• The two additional 2X4X8” pieces cut earlier, fit above the horizontal beam as shown.

Material List

(2) 4X4X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

Cut List

(1) Cross Beam – 4X4X56”

(2) End Members – 4X4X34”

Directions

Cut, notch and chamfer the three beams as shown in the drawing. Cut the notches carefully, to ensure a snug fit. A cross cut sled on a table saw with a dado blade or multiple passes with a normal blade (which is what I did) works well.

2. Fit the pieces together and secure with deck screws.

In the shop, dry fit the entire base assembly to ensure everything fits properly.

Now is also a good time to lightly sand and stain the base if you choose to do so. At the very least you should apply End Cut Sealer for Pressure Treated Wood.

Take the two leg assemblies, the centre beam, the two upper
short verticals, the top of base and the castors to where the table will be located.

Assemble using deck screws as appropriate.

Material List

(1) 2X6X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

(4) 2X4X8 Pressure Treated Lumber

Cut List

(1) Center Beam – 2X6X61”

(2) End Beams – 2X4X46”

(2) Side Beams – 2x4x61”

(8) Dividers – 2X4X16-3/4”

Directions

Cut and assemble the tabletop frame using pocket screw joinery.

Note: Lumber dimensions are not always consistent, so it’s important to ensure one side (the top) of the frame is a flush base for the cedar top.

Material List

(6) Cedar deck boards 5/4x6x12

Cut List

All pieces are cut to fit, as shown in the drawing.

Directions

Begin by ripping the centre cross pieces down to 3-1/2” wide and cut to length as shown in the drawing. Then lay out the center cross pieces on the tabletop frame.

Note: Initially, the tabletop will be fastened to the frame by brad nailing from underneath, just to hold the pieces in place and sure the top is flush. Once the entire tabletop is laid out and nailed, it will be flipped over in order to drive in the screws.

Now start cutting and laying out the herringbone pattern of cedar planks and laying them out from the center of each quadrant. Cut some scrap wood into 1/8" strips and use theme to divide the herringbone pieces. This 1/8" gap will leave room for expansion and allow water to drain away. Brad nail the herringbone pieces to the frame from underneath.

• Cut the herringbone pieces slightly over-length. They will be trimmed flush with the frame once they are all laid out.
• Before nailing the pieces into place, make sure the tops are flush. Shims may be required.

Carry on adding the deck boards until the tabletop is complete, and then trim the sides flush with the frame.

Note: Each quadrant should be made up of the same board, to keep the finish consistent.

Flip the tabletop over and drive screws through the frame and into the cedar top to properly secure everything into place.

Note: This is a good time to stain the bottom of the table to protect it from the elements.

Material List

(4) Cedar deck boards 5/4x6x12

Now flip the table back over, then cut and attach the side trim. To begin with, measure the total thickness of the frame and tabletop now they are screwed together. Take this measurement, and rip cedar deck boards to width. Then measure and cut the trim with mitered ends for fitting to the table. These lengths aren't provided as at this point the length and width of the table might vary slightly. When cutting miters, always oversize and then trim to fit. Attach the deck boards with screws as this will pull the trim in tight to the herringbone pieces. Oversize the holes for the screws and use a plug cutter to create plugs from scrap cedar to fill them in.

Sand and finish with cedar stain. For contrasting looks, don’t stain all the parts (I didn’t stain the cross pieces or trim, just the herringbone quadrants). You could also use a contrasting stain such as black. Finish with spar urethane for all weather protection.