Paracord Magnetic Metal Loom

by Fikjast Scott in Outside > Paracord

3703 Views, 45 Favorites, 0 Comments

Paracord Magnetic Metal Loom

005.JPG
019.JPG
028 (Small).JPG

I needed a way of managing my larger scale paracord knotting projects. A loom is the way to go.

I came up with my Paracord Magnetic Metal Loom.

Utilizing magnet hooks for the upper and lower holders, gives me quick adjustments. The used of a mini bungee cord keeps tension on the cords while knotting.

Working with long lengths of cord is tricky enough, this made it a little easier.

Design

scan0001.jpg

I first thought of wood, but the thought of all the variable locations and drilling holes made me think of alternatives.

My love for magnets sent me to the local building supply store.

I found metal studs or steel framing to fit the build - perfect.

Items and Tools

063 (Small).JPG
023 (Small).JPG

Items

Framing - 10 foot metal stud - 10 feet is not what I needed but there was a clearance rack with returned and dented metal. I grab a few pieces - 1/2 off the price not bad

Tape – I used hockey stick tape - I did not want any sharp edges; so I covered the edges with tape

Magnetic hooks – I had some 1 ½ magnetic hooks available. For my prototype I had to put some stronger rare earth magnets on the other side to hold up to the pulling pressure. I will try and source rare earth magnet hooks for future builds.

Bungee cord – I used 10 inch mini cords

Rings – 1 inch binder rings – keep 2 rings on hand

Optional

S hooks – I have 3 S hooks to use the open holes

Tools

Tin snips

Hammer

Leather gloves

Cut the Steel Down to Size

074 (Small).JPG
001 (Small).JPG
002 (Small).JPG
003 (Small).JPG

My finished target length was 62 inches. I cut down the 10 foot section to 64 inches (using tin snips).

The extra two inches are going to be used to fold over the ends.

I marked both ends at the 1 inch point (from each end).

To fold over - I wanted 3 sections; a top with two sides. So I cut in 1 inch on both sides of the top - with tin snips.

I folded in the two sides and then folded down the top.

I used a hammer to close up the joints.

Tape the Edges

018 (Small).JPG
020 (Small).JPG
019 (Small).JPG

I wanted to avoid sharp edges, so I thought of tape. Winter is winding down, so I had some hockey stick tape to use. I ran the hockey tape on all the outer edges. I did not mechanically close the ends with rivets or screws – I used only the tape.

Note: that with hammering the joints, it created some nice closed joints. Since there are no major structural requirements; I thought tape would be fine.

Set Up

016 (Small).JPG
014.JPG
015.JPG
035 (Small).JPG
002.JPG

The nice thing about using magnets on a metal frame, there

is not a lot of set up. I place the magnetic hooks facing in opposite directions. I place rings on both top and bottom. I use the bungee cord on the bottom. Again the bungee gives nice tension on the cords, but allows the movement of the cords while knotting.

This work just fine for me, but I keep the S-hooks with the loom just in case. I am not sure if there will be a time for greater pull than the magnets can hold.

Finished

004.JPG
022.JPG
018.JPG
039 (Small).JPG
019 (2) (Small).JPG

This could have not worked out any better. I can start a project and put it away in the closet - if I am not done.

It gives me endless set lengths (well what I would need).

I made my Paracord fence jumper with this set up.

I am trying different types of photos to get this project across visually.

I am glad I could share this project with anyone that views it.