Paper Shadowbox: the Magic of Light and Shadows

Let's create an intricate, multi-layered shadowbox using layered paper cutouts, custom spacers, and a dual-color LED lighting system. The featured design (a father and daughter in an imaginary cityscape with a floating whale) uses 9 paper layers, but this method works for any theme you choose. So put your creative hats on and let's get started!

PS: I've used multiple references to come up with this design and you should feel free to pick elements you like from all around you when designing your shadowbox

1. Paper: Sheets of sturdy white cardstock (180gsm or more).
2. Drawing & Cutting Tools: Pencil, ruler, Craft Knife/X-Acto Knife, optional Swivel Knife, a fine pin or needle (for stars), and a Cutting Mat.
3. Spacers: Thin foam board or thick cardstock for custom spacer frames.
4. Adhesive: Craft glue for assembly.
5. Casing: Material for the custom box (e.g., foam board, wood).
6. Lighting Components: Modular LED light strips (warm white and purple), 9-volt batteries (or power supply), a toggle switch (DPDT is ideal), and connecting wires.

The design featured here uses 9 paper layers for complex depth, but your design can use any number of layers! Use fewer for a simpler scene or more for maximum depth and detail. For the rest of the instructable we'll focus on the design chosen here.

Map out your layers and draw the corresponding design on each cardstock sheet, ensuring the outer border of all layers is identical.

Layers:

1. The Foreground Canopy. This layer provides the main natural frame for the entire scene. Its thicker branches anchor the viewer's eye and create the longest shadows. Focus on clean, natural curves and negative space to define the branches.
2. Mid-Foreground Density. This layer adds visual depth just behind the main frame. The finer leaves and ferns enhance the sense of being surrounded by nature. Cut the small, intricate leaves with precision, ensuring they don't tear.
3. The Immediate Ground. This layer contains small elements like mushrooms and tufts of grass that sit right at the bottom edge, adding texture to the floor. Carefully carve out the small mushroom shapes and the fine cuts of ground foliage.
4. The Father and Daughters on the bridge. This is the narrative focal point. Their silhouette must be clear and distinct. The outline must be crisp. Ensure the bridge railings are thin enough to let light through but sturdy enough not to break.
5. The Water Plane. This layer acts as the 'canvas' for the water. The lower half must remain a solid sheet of white paper. Cut the top edge to match the horizon/bridge line, but leave the entire bottom half solid and clean.
6. The Reflection. This layer contains the vertically flipped silhouette of the father and daughter. Its purpose is to cast a shadow onto Layer 5. The cutout must be identical to Layer 4 but flipped upside down. It requires clean cuts but will be mostly hidden from direct view.
7. Urban Backdrop. This layer introduces a background setting (the town/city) that gives context to the central figures. Focus on straight lines for the roofs and precise small rectangles for the windows, ensuring they are evenly cut for a clean light effect.
8. Urban Backdrop 2. An additional layer detailing the urban Backdrop.
9. Sky Whale. A breaching whale creates a sense of wonder and scale. Its large, simple shape pushes it visually far back. Cut the large, smooth curves of the animal's body and its watery spout with a fluid motion.
10. Sky Whale 2. An additional layer detailing the whale further.
11. Sky and stars. This is the final paper layer. It diffuses the back light and the pinpricked holes provide the "starry sky" effect. Use a fine pin or needle to puncture many small, random holes across the sheet. No large cuts needed.

Cut out all the layers defined above. Use your sharp knife on the cutting mat ensuring you move slowly to ensure the shapes are precise.

Always cut the small, intricate details first before cutting the outer perimeters to maintain paper stability.

Ensure that each layer has a boundary on all 4 sides which will be used later to stick all the layers together with spacers in between to introduce depth.

You will need 9 spacer frames (one between each of the paper layers except the water and reflection later) to control the depth and shadow definition.

The following steps should be done for each frame

1. Cut and Mitre Strips: Determine the desired space between your layers. Cut long strips of your spacer material to this uniform width. Cut a 45° angle (mitre) on the ends of the strips so they can be joined seamlessly.
2. Assemble Frames: Glue four strips together to form a sturdy rectangular frame that matches the outer edge of your paper layers.

Let's build 2 colour lighting system that provides a dynamic lighting effect that enhances the 3D quality and atmosphere. Lighting is the most important aspect of the shadowbox, without it there are no shadows or depth at all!

The following steps detail how to build the lighting system.

1. Wire Circuits: Create a separate, parallel circuit for the warm white LEDs and the purple LEDs. You can use LED bricks for this to simplify the process. Diffused LEDs work best, you can take some sandpaper and rub gently on the LEDs until the glass diffuses the light well.
2. Connect to Switch: Wire the positive leads of the two color circuits to the two output positions of the toggle switch. The battery's positive lead connects to the common terminal. The negative leads connect directly to the battery's negative terminal. I've used a 9 volt battery here but you'll need to use the right voltage based on the LEDs you use.

Carefully assemble the layers, starting from the front of the casing and working backward toward the light source. You can test your assembly at any point by pointing it towards a light source like a tube light and checking if the shadows look as expected. Note that until the last layer (sky and stars) is not added, you'll not get truly diffused light but this will still give you a rough idea.

1. General Stacking: Attach the spacers between every two layers and stack and glue the layers together for the first set of layers until the reflection.
2. Reflection Integration: Place Layer 5 (Water Plane), and then place Layer 6 (Reflection) right behind it. This uses the light shining past Layer 6 to cast a strong shadow.
3. Final Layers: Continue stacking all the way to the last layer.

The casing must be built to the exact size of your final stack plus the lighting system ensuring that there is some space between the back of the case where the lighting system will be attached and the last layer of the stack (the sky and stars) to ensure that the light has room to spread around.

1. Calculate Depth: Measure the combined thickness of all the layers plus. Add an extra few centimeters for the lights and wiring at the back. This is the internal depth of your box.
2. Assemble Walls and Install Switch: Cut four walls to your calculated depth and glue them together. Install the toggle switch into a pre-drilled hole in one of the side walls for easy access.

Plug in your power source and test the switch to see your hard work come to life!

The warm white setting provides a soft, golden ambiance, enhancing the cozy feel. The purple setting transforms the scene into a spectacular, moonlit fantasy, making the starry sky and the reflection effect truly stand out.