Paper Hole Drill

As part of my interest in retro computing, I find myself printing manuals. I typically want to punch them for a three-ring binder but punching with a small desk punch is tedious. I also don't want to purchase pre punched blank paper and switch out the printer for these print jobs. Fortunately, a replacement paper punch drill is inexpensive. Here I will present a simple wooden jig to drill stacks of paper without the investment in a hole punch machine.

Strait Shank 8mm Paper Drill such as this one from Amazon (Amazon.com: Utoolmart 8mm Paper Punch Drill, Straight Shank Hollow Bit Tool, for Hole Puncher Punching Machine 1Pcs : Tools & Home Improvement)

Qty 2 - 3 1/2 x 5/16 bolts

Qty 4 - 5/16 washers

Qty 2 - 5/16 wing nut

Qty 2 - #8 x 1 1/4 wood screws

Qty 2 - #8 x2 wood screws

2 part 5 Minute Epoxy

1x10 pine board

Woodworking tools to cut and drill.

Cut the following sizes of wood from the 1x10:

Base - 8 1/2 x 14

Base Fence - 7 3/8 x 1 1/2

Side Fence - 2 x 11

Clamp - 1 x 14

In all, the grain runs parallel to the long side.

Using a standard sheet of three-hole punched paper, line it up over the top of the clamp board so that the left edge of the paper is aligned with the left edge of the board and the center hole is positioned at the center of the clamp board. Mark the three holes on the board and mark the edges of the paper to act as guides. Also mark the left edge so it can be properly aligned when used.

Drill a 1/2 inch clearance hole with a Forstner bit 1/2 inch deep at each paper hole location. Then drill the center through the board with a 11/32 inch bit. If you don't have the Forstner bit, that can be omitted but less of the paper drill length will be usable as the head of the bit is larger than the cutting portion. The 1/2 inch clearance hole allows more of the paper drill to reach the paper stack.

Finally, drill a 3/8 hole one inch from each end of the clamp board, centered.

Position the clamp board along the left long edge of the base and mark the location of the two holes at the edge of the clamp board. Drill a 5/16 hole at each location. Flip the board over and drill a 3/4 inch clearance hole with a Forstner bit deep enough for the head of the bolt and a washer to fit without sticking out.

Feed a bolt with a washer through each hole in the bottom of the base. Flip it over and slide the clamp board over the bolts and tighten down with the remaining washers and wing nuts. Flip the base back over and position on a table so the bolts hang over the edge and the base lies flat. Mix the epoxy and fill around the bolt heads to lock them in place. Allow the epoxy to dry.

Drill two holes and countersink for the #8 screws in the fence board. Screw the fence to the base so that the top edge aligns with the mark for the edge of the paper on the clamp board. Make sure it is at right angles to the clamp and screw the fence to the base.

Drill three holes and countersink for the #8 screws in the fence board. All screws are 3/8 from the bottom of the fence. I placed one at the center mark and the other two one inch from each end. Screw the fence to the left side of the base so that the fence aligns with the edge marks for the paper on the clamp board.

Chuck the Paper Punch in a drill. Clamp the stack of paper in the jig so that the left edge is aligned with the edge of the base. Place the clamp board on the bolts and tighten with the wing nuts to hold the paper stack still. Drill each hole using the predrilled holes in the clamp board as a guide. Don't drill past the stack of paper. However, since pine is a soft wood, it won't destroy the bit should that occur.

I use a drill press, but a hand drill held steady and perpendicular to the jig should work as well.

Remember that the paper punch is hollow, and it will fill with the punched paper. Unlike the actual punch machine, a drill chuck is enclosed. It is necessary to remove the bit from the chuck and clear the inside periodically.