Trellis Deck Garden
You don't need a lot of space to get fresh vegetables from a garden. This garden is less than 48 square feet and will produce an abundance of green beans and cucumbers. Almost anyone with a south facing deck can be a gardener.
I have not specified the number of each of the materials needed because every project will be different. The materials used for this project appear later.
TOOLS
a detailed PLAN
a sharp shovel
saw horses
hammer
handsaw or reciprocating saw
tape measure
marker
electric drill
hex screw driver bit
wire cutter
pliers
MATERIALS
3/4" PVC pipe
3/4" PVC slip Tees
3/4" PVC slip Elbows
18" steel rods
A short marker board
2" hex screws
Twine or strong cord
Duct tape
Stiff wire or metal coat hangers
The PLAN
Keep in mind that I had never actually seen the work site except in two photos. Based on the length and the height of the deck and the distance between the deck railing posts I was provided, I developed THE PLAN. The deck is 24' long and about 5' off the ground. From the photo I determined the distance between the railing posts and the number of vertical PVC pipes needed.
PVC pipe usually comes in 10' sections. With 5' below deck level, picking beans below it can be done from the ground. Picking above the 5' deck level can be done from the deck.
Based on THE PLAN (aka the drawing) I determined that we would need:
7-10' 3/4" pipe for the verticals
3-10' 3/4" pipe for the horizontals at the top
1-10' 3/4" pipe for the short connectors from the verticals to the deck posts
7- 18" steel rods
19- 3/4" slip Tees
2- 3/4" slip Elbows
42- 2" hex head screws
700' twine or strong cord
The Build
After a trip to the local big box store for the materials, we set to work. The sod was scrapped off and the soil was dug, chopped, and raked.
The steel stakes were inserted into the ground directly below the post where the PVC vertical would be. The steel posts are to keep the bottom of the PVC in position when the wind blows. With one person on the ground to handle the verticals, the second person worked on the deck to mark each vertical piece for the correct length.
Starting at the low point of the gentle slope, a piece of wood was marked to indicate the top of the vertical (#1). Each succeeding vertical (#2 - #7) was held in position and marked for cutting using the marker board as a guide. Each vertical was cut to length, making sure they were kept in order. We marked the verticals 1-7 to help prevent mixups.
With the verticals all cut to insure that the tops were even, each was then again set upright and marked for more cutting. Stand the vertical in place and detemine where the lower tee would be inserted to connect with the bottom of the railing post. Cut the vertical, attach the tee to the bottom section, and reattach the top section. Again stand the vertical in place and mark where the top tee should be inserted. Cut the vertical, attach the upper tee to the middle section, and reattach the top section. Stand the vertical in place and detemine the length of the pieces that will connect the vertical to the deck post. Cut them to length and insert them into the tees. Insert one screw to join the connector to the tee and two screws to join the connector to the deck post. Repeat this for each vertical.
Install an elbow on the tops of the end verticals and a tee on the other verticals. Measure and cut a pipe to fit between the end elbow and the nearest tee. These pieces make up the top bar. Remember that the top bar pieces insert into the elbows and tees so include that in your measurements. Measure, cut, and insert all of the top bar pieces. The trellis framework is now done. Note that no adhesive is used so the structure can be disassembled and stored over the winter.
Stringing the Trellis
With one person on the deck and the other on the ground with the twine or cord, the top person ties the twine to the top bar about 6" from one end of the top bar. We used a clove hitch around the bar and two half hitches to secure the end of the twine. While the knots are being tied, the person on the ground cuts the twine to length, adding about 3' to the top bar to ground length. Bottom person hands the end of the twine up and the process is repeated for the entire length of the top bar so there is a twine every 6". Apply a 3-4" piece of duct tape over each twine on the top bar to keep them from moving in the wind.
On the ground, tie a small loop in each twine about 6' up and four more about a foot apart. The horizonatal twines will be threaded through these loops to form a net for the beans and cucumbers to climb on.
Thread the top horizontal twine through each successive top loop and tie it off on the end vertal. Cut the twine and secute it to the vertical. Repeat threading the horizontals.
Cut the stiff wire into 1' long pieces and form a loop or bend at one end. These are anchors for the bottom of the twine so it doesn't blow in the wind, yanking your plants out of the ground. Insert the anchors into the ground at a 45 degree angle if possible and tie the twine to the loop or bend.
You are ready to plant your pole beans, cucumbers, or other vining crop. Protect the young sprouts with a tent of bent chicken wire or something similar. Water the plants as needed. This link will get you to a how-to on irrigation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOpvLFwjS1g