Outside Rustic Bar - This Is a Very Simple Straight Forward Project That Can Be Made in a Day or Two With Simple Tools.

DIY Outside Rustic Bar - This is a very simple straight forward project that can be made in a day or two with simple tools.

Construction materials are commonly available from Home Depot or Lowes and the counter underlighting and casters from Amazon. The lumber cut dimensions are approximate, and you should always measure twice before cutting. I found that the project starts out with more accuracy, and you need to adjust cuts as you go due to the accuracy of cuts, dimensional material variances, and wood warpage.

Also, I advise reading a few steps ahead before doing executing each step so you can have an idea of what’s coming and not assume (this is really important with the LED lighting).

Place boards A and B as shown in the picture below. Diagonally measure corner to corner to measure sure your setup is square (both measurements should be the same), then mount A to B with a 1 ½” off set with the 2-1/2 in. Wood Deck Screws. 

Mount 2 C boards to 1 B board as shown in the drawing below (note they are mirrored) using the 2-1/2 in. Wood Deck Screws.

On a flat even surface, move assemble A/B into an upright position and mount assembly B/C to A/B. Start with one with the 2-1/2 in. Wood Deck Screws and adjust any skew so the combined assembly is square and flat on surface. Once square/flat, secure with remaining boards with the 2-1/2 in. Wood Deck Screws. Note the C board end should be flush with the A board ends.

Cut main countertop E from 2” x 10” x 10’. Measure in from either end so the remaining wood can be used for the F countertop sides. Cut at a 45-degree angles.

Cut the ends countertop sides to 29”. Measure from the previous 45-degree angle cut to make the perpendicular cut. This will preserves the angle.

Secure the main countertop E to the frame with the 2-1/2 in. Wood Deck Screws. Once in place do the same for the F countertop side pieces.

Flip bar assemble on to its’ top and add the angle brackets spaced out evenly with the 1/2" sheet metal screws.

Cut the under-counter skirt lip pieces from the 1” x 2” x 8’ lumber. Cut a 45-degree angle then measure from the point match the length of the main countertop E length (61”). Cut back at 45-degree angle so the final resulting length of the points on part G matches the main countertop (61”). Apply wood glue to skirt lip and flush mount G to the underside of the main countertop E with the #8 x 1-1/4 in. Star Drive Trim-Head Finish Screws (space out evenly – minimum of 3 screws should be used). Follow the same process for the H under-counter skirt lip pieces.

Flip the bar back to its upright position. From the inside of the bar, measure 10 ½” and 26” down from the bar top to locate the top of the shelf support beams. Cut 4 (Item I) 1” x 2” x 42” and 4 (item J) 1” x 2” 17.5” pieces for the shelf supports. Mount part D (2” x 4” 19 ¾”) to the front vertical support B so it is flush with the outside edge. This will be used to support the side shelf beams and mount the power strip.

Mount the front and side (2 “I” and 4 “J”) supports to the bar assemble with the #8 x 1-1/4 in. Star Drive Trim-Head Finish Screws (space out evenly – minimum of 3 screws should be used). The remaining two “I” back supports will be added after the shelfs are installed.

Cut two ½ plywood shelfs (K) 18.5" x 42". Start with the lower shelf and apply wood glue to the support beams and then secure in place using the #8 x 1-1/4 in. Star Drive Trim-Head Finish Screws (space out evenly – minimum of 3 screws should be used per side). Repeat for the top shelf. Note: adjustments might need to be made to the shelf size for proper fitting due to material warpage or cutting/assembly variances.

Now mount the back shelf support piece “I” by applying wood glue to where the edge of the plywood will touch the beam. Flush mount using #8 x 1-1/4 in. Star Drive Trim-Head Finish Screws (space out evenly – minimum of 3 screws should be used). Note: you can bevel the ends for a more finished look.

Sizing the Corrugated Galvanized Steel Roof Panel is done by measuring out 38” height and marking the steel with a straight edge and pencil. Use the Offset Straight and Left Cut Aviation Snips to cut the panels. It is OK to allow the panels to curve while cutting to clear the snips.

Prep the side panels for easier installation. Place a side panel so either end extends beyond the edge evenly – with a bit more towards the back (this will be attached to the back post). Mark with a pencil. Now using plyers or a hammer, flatten out and create a vertical crease/bend at the corners so the panel will wrap the edges. The vertical bending can take a few rounds to get the metal to comply and it may not look neat. That is OK as the front will be covered, and the back side just adds to the rustic look of the bar. 

Place the side panel on the bar and using a nail or steel punch, hammer a hole through the corrugated steel (in the valley touching the wood) into the cross wood beam at the top and bottom. Secure your first Hex metal screw to hold the panel in place. Repeat along the top and the bottom. Repeat on the other end panel. Secure the end wrapped corner at the back of the bar last. 

Place the remaining two corrugated panels on the front of the bar allowing them to overlap in the middle. Adjust so the front edges cover the front vertical corners side steel wrapping. Secure with Hex screws following the same process as the side panels.

Mount the casters to the bottom of 4 most outward corners of the bar with the caster having breaks on the back side.

Undercounter lighting. 

Flip the bar back on its top. Connect the plug end and two strip light together and several extender strips. Peel only the beginning of the release liner on the back of the LED strip lights to expose the adhesive tape and start to mount to the top under 2” x 4” horizontal beam. Pull a little of the release liner as you go as you adhere to the beam (it is very sticky and can cause issues if you pull it all off at once). Make sure you connect the next part in the series before adhering to the end as it is very difficult to push on the connector if it is in place.

Two full trips are used under the back inside of the bar for the top shelf lighting. Then flexible connectors are used to run to the outside of the bar. You will need to fish the flexible connect through the corrugated steel (make sure you have the right connector ends established before doing this as they are one-way directional).

Trim the last leg of the lights where the scissor icon on the strip is printed.

Flip the bar back to its upright position.

Using the double sided foam tape provided, mount the remote control facing the LED plug connector. It is a line of sight remote.

Mount the Weatherproof Outdoor Power Strip to part D under the left corner where the LED plus is located.

Using a hand blow torch, scorch the lumber to desired patina which will preserve the wood. Using an old rag and furniture oil, coat the wood with the oil allow a few minutes to penetrate, and then wipe off the excess. Allow to dry.

You are now done. Good job!