Optimized Hangboard for Beginners

Hello! My name Aidan, I am a junior in engineering 3 and love to hang out with my freinds. One way to get better and get HUGE at hanging out is to climb and hangboard. But every hangboard I've found is a bit too far out in climbing level, so I've made a hangboard that has been tested by non climbers to intermediate climbers to help bridge the gap of difficulty with hangboarding.

The Makers space in my engineering class helps to CNC router a 23" x 6" x 2" , as well as some old 1" Dia Pegs for the pull up bar, make sure to get a solid piece of wood with good feel to it should be used so that your hands dont get messed up while hanging from them, (real beech wood or tulipwood works great)

After designing, I kept the idea of how to cut it out in mind, making sure there is no angle the a flat end Mill cant do. Since we are using a router, Setting up a roughing operation is key, making sure to rough out each hole and step down, and then having it contour out the details to leave a nice finish, (due note that when your CNC router is at 18 thousand RPMs with a federate of 140-155 you can plunge the into the wood to save time, it saved me an hour of cutting time) and make sure to use a 1/2 flat end Mill with at least 1.8-2 inches, also keeping in mind the dust guard in relation to that. and always have a peice of stock larger than the dimensions I gave in order to have areas to mount it to the router table.

When cutting it out you should mark where the Hangboard will be cut out of set to the WCS (where your machine is at 0,0) and from there you can drill into and put in wood screws into your stock at least 2 inches or bigger in order to not puncture through your router table. once you put in wood screws into each corner of your stock. Make sure to confirm on the first 15 minutes of roughing out that it will NOT be cutting where you mounted it, I made this mistake and it sheared off a screw and destroyed a end Mill, just cause its going fast enough to cut metal does not mean its feedrate is correct to as well.

Great now its cut out, cut it out by any means (I used a vertical bandsaw). Also, each hole is not exactly smooth for your fingers, so make sure you get a hand router with a round over but, like I have in the photo, and a hand sander to smooth out the rest, (if you don't have a hand router or roundover bit, then the hand sander works fine too). I didn't get to fancy but you can also use a blow torch to give it a cool look, just not to much (it's still wood)

The Hangboard is designed to be mounted above a door (or just a wood frame works) so in the picture I marked out with a stud finder where the studs on my wall are with measurements online, your door may be different so be warned, the outer holds are designed to have the wood screws mounted vertically parallel to each other as shown in the right picture, that is the perfect distance between studs to ensure you are hanging and not crashing to the ground (unless you have a crash pad of course) And you can also put some 1' wood dowels onto the outer top most holes with some wood glue, this is great for just starting to hang in a neutral position and do pull ups, trust me it can hold you.

https://a360.co/439qkx4

This link will lead you to a viewable file on fusion360 of my design, you can download the CAM from here as well so you don't need to make a whole new cutting operation, be sure to edit feeds and speeds to what you may need.