One-Sheet Plywood Angled Bookshelf (Midcentury Modern)

Last fall, I designed and built a simple desk for my home office out of a single sheet of plywood. If you are interested, you can check out the Instructable that I wrote for that desk here.

I like the desk, so I decided it would be fun to build a one-sheet plywood bookshelf to compliment it.

I chose to angle the sides of the bookshelf for reasons of stability, efficiency, and to harmonize with the angled legs on the desk. The end result is a very large, very sturdy bookshelf that is elegant in its simplicity.

Give it a try! It will be easier to build than you think.

1 4' x 8' Sheet of 3/4" Plywood - (I used UV Prefinished Birch)

1 1/4" Pocket Screws

1 1/4" Deck or Drywall Screws

Masking Tape

Wood Glue

220-Grit Sandpaper

The first step in building your bookshelf is to break down your sheet of plywood into component parts. Cuts need to be accurate, straight, and clean. For these reasons, I strongly recommend using a circular saw guide. (I built my saw guide using this great Instructable.) If you use prefinished plywood, like I did, you should also consider placing masking tape on both sides of the line you will be cutting. The masking tape helps to prevent splintering as you cut and prevents you from leaving pencil marks on your project. (I used masking tape at first, but removed it prematurely and suffered the consequences - splintering!)

You may notice that my photographs show the plywood cuts reverse (mirrored) to my diagram. I chose to do it that way because it was more convenient with my available space and equipment.

I have added 2 cut diagrams to the images attached to this step. One of them contains colored lines where cuts should be made. For ease and material efficiency, I recommend making your cuts in the following order:

1. Green - Be sure to make your cut long enough that you will cut all the way through the bottom of the plywood, but don't overcut by more than 3 or 4 inches, or you will damage necessary material.
2. Orange - Same reminder as above, but even more so. It might be a good idea to make this cut with a jig saw, or to stop short with the circular saw and finish the cut with a hand saw. There is very little material to spare, here.
3. Blue - I have highlighted 2 cuts in blue, because their order relative to each other doesn't matter.
4. Pink
5. Yellow - This is a fairly difficult cut. You will definitely need a cutting guide or straightedge. Measure and clamp carefully. Cut slowly and steadily. I will describe this in more detail in the next step.

You should be left with:

• 1 - 20 5/8" x 78 1/4" piece
• 2 - 31 1/4" x 27 1/4" pieces
• 1 - 33 1/4" x 24 7/8" piece
• 1 - L-shaped piece whose longest edges measure 33 1/4" x 23"

This step refers to the cut highlighted in yellow on the cut diagram provided in the previous step.

This is, perhaps, the most difficult step in the entire bookshelf build.

1. Take the 20 5/8" x 78 1/4" piece that you cut out in the previous step.
2. On one short end of the piece, mark 12 1/2" from the left corner.
3. On the opposite end of the piece, mark 8" from the right corner.
4. Align your cutting guide or straight edge so that the left edge of your saw blade will align with your mark on the 12 1/2" side.
5. Repeat this process on the opposite end of the workpiece, so that the right edge of your saw blade will align with your mark on the 8" side.
6. Clamp your straightedge or saw guide to the workpiece. (You should now be set up to cut out a long piece that tapers from 12 1/2" on one end to 8" on the opposite end.)
7. Clamp your workpiece to your bench or cutting surface.
8. Make the cut. Go slowly and steadily. Do your best not to let the saw blade wander.

You should be left with 2 nearly identical workpieces that are 78 1/4" long and taper from 12 1/2" to 8". The pieces probably won't be an exact match, but they need to be as close as you can make them. Lay the two workpieces against each other and mark the larger piece so that you know how much to trim off. If the angled cut you have just made is nice and straight, you should be able to trim the excess from the straight side of the larger piece.

If (like me) your angled cut was a little sloppy, you may need to clamp the two pieces together and use a flush-trim router bit to match them up. In this case, use the smaller workpiece as the template for the bearing on your flush-trim router bit.

Use a table saw to break down your workpieces into their final widths. I have listed the necessary cuts in the following format: Quantity - Width of panel. If this is confusing, refer the the cut diagram provided in the first step.

• One of the 31 1/4" x 27 1/4" panels should be cut into the following widths (4 workpieces, and one narrow strip of waste). Always start with the factory edge of the plywood against your table saw fence for maximum accuracy.
  • 1 - 12 1/2"
  • 1 - 11"
  • 2 - 1 1/2"
• The other 31 1/4" x 27 1/4" panel should be cut into the following widths (6 workpieces).
  • 1 - 10 3/16"
  • 1 - 9 3/8"
  • 3 - 1 1/2"
  • 1 - Approximately 2 1/2". Exact width is not important.
• Place the 24 7/8" factory edge of the 33 1/4" x 24 7/8" workpiece against your table saw fence. Measure 31 1/4" and mark the panel carefully. Now, adjust your table saw fence so that you will trim off enough material to leave yourself with a panel that is 24 7/8" x 31 1/4". You should be left with an offcut piece that is approximately 24 7/8" x 1 7/8".
• Now, take the 31 1/4" x 24 7/8" workpiece, place the 31 1/4" factory edge against the table saw fence, and cut panels in the following three widths.
  • 1 - 8"
  • 1 - 8 1/16"
  • 1 - 8 9/16"
• Place the 23" factory edge of the L-shaped workpiece against your table saw fence and cut panels in the following widths.
  • 5 - 3 3/8"

Note: You could, certainly build this bookshelf without a router. In that case, you could use a pocket hole jig and pocket screws to fasten the shelves to the bookshelf sides. You could, also, simply use drywall screws to screw through the outside of the bookshelf sides and fasten the shelves with a simple butt joint.

However, if you intend to use rabbets and dados for the shelf joinery, as I did, it is very important that you set up the bookshelf sides properly, for easy router work.

1. Start by examining your two long angled pieces. Place the faces with the nicest appearance face down, so that the most significant flaws are facing upward.
2. Orient the pieces so that the short ends (8”) are together and the long ends (12 ½”) are together.
3. Butt the two long, straight edges (with 90-degree corners) against each other, so that the two workpieces form a trapezoid.
4. Now, pull the two workpieces slightly apart and use scrap pieces of ¾” plywood as spacers between the two pieces. I used two pieces of ¾” plywood at either end and in the middle, to create a uniform 1 ½” space between the two workpieces.
5. Clamp one of the two workpieces down to your work surface.
6. Push the unclamped workpiece tight against your spaces.
7. Use a box level or other sturdy straightedge to make sure that both the 8” and 12 ½” workpiece ends are squarely aligned with each other.
8. Clamp the unclamped workpiece in place.

You might have a more sophisticated router setup than I do. If so, you probably already know what to do!

I used a fixed base router with a straightedge. Therefore, in order to make accurate cuts, I needed to know the distance from the edge of my router base to the opposite edge of my router bit. I selected a 23/32" straight router bit (sold as an "Undersized 3/4" Plywood Bit"). Next, I used a digital caliper to find the required distance. With my equipment, that distance was 2.65". I used the stem of the caliper to transfer that measurement to an adjustable square. This would allow me to use the adjustable square to place my straightedge for the rabbet cuts. Finally, I used the adjustable square and a scrap of 3/4" plywood to transfer the router base + bit + material width onto a metal ruler. I marked this combined measurement with a piece of painter's tape for future use in setting up the stopped dado cuts.

I hope this makes sense to you. I will try to explain the significance of these measurements in the related steps.

A good rule of thumb for dado and rabbet joints is to cut the dado or rabbet approximately 1/3 the thickness of your material. Since I was using 3/4" plywood, I adjusted my router cut depth to 1/4".

1. Use the adjustable square that has been set up for rabbets (router base width + bit, 2.65" in my case) to mark where your straight edge should be placed on the 12 1/2" ends of both long workpieces.
2. Clamp the straightedge in place.
3. With your router unplugged, carefully check the straightedge placement. You should be set up to route a 1/4" deep x 3/4" wide rabbet flush with the 12 1/2" end of each long workpiece.
4. When you are satisfied with the preparation of your router and straightedge, make the cut, keeping your router level, with the edge of the router base pressed firmly against the straightedge.
5. Turn off your router and check to make sure the cut looks clean and uniform. If there are irregularities, repeat the cut to clean them up.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the opposite (8") ends of the long workpieces.

(In the last two photos, I have included a piece of scrap plywood in the rabbets to demonstrate that it fits properly.)

As I mentioned previously, you could build this bookshelf without going through the hassle of using stopped dado joints. That beings said, they are not as hard as they seem, and the end result looks really sleek and clean.

For the sake of simplicity, I will refer to the deepest shelf (12 1/2" deep), at the base of the bookshelf as Shelf #7. The shelf at the very top of the bookshelf (8" deep) will be Shelf #1.

1. Use a framing square or a long metal ruler to measure 14 1/2" up from the top edge of the rabbet on the wider (12 1/2") ends of the long workpieces.
2. Make a mark here on both long sides of the work pieces to represent the bottom of the dado for Shelf #6.
3. Align your straightedge with these two marks and clamp it across the two workpieces. Make the sure the straightedge is clamped firmly against the middles and edges of the workpieces so that your router base doesn't slide beneath it when you are cutting your dados.
4. Now use the ruler you marked with your router base + bit + material thickness measurement and mark that distance from either side of the workpiece, along the straightedge, toward the center. (In my picture, I show a ruler plus a scrap piece of plywood. This mark will tell you where to stop the inside edge of your router base, so you may wish to use your square to extend this mark into a perpendicular line, about six inches down from the straightedge, in order to make it easy to see.)
5. Place your router on the two workpieces, with the bit protruding into the gap between them, and the edge of your router base firmly against the straightedge.
6. Run the router from left to right along the straightedge, stopping when the left edge of your router base is flush with the line you marked in Step 4.
7. Carefully run your router from right to left, along your straightedge, until the router bit is back in the center gap.
8. Now run the router from right to left along your straight edge, stopping when the right edge of your router base is flush with the line you marked in Step 4.
9. Carefully return the router to the center gap.
10. Switch the router off and set it aside when the bit has stopped spinning.

Shelf spacing should be as follows:

• Shelf #7 to Shelf #6 (described in the previous 10 steps): 14 1/2"
• Shelf #6 to Shelf #5: 13 1/2"
• Shelf #5 to Shelf #4: 12 3/4"
• Shelf #4 to Shelf #3: 12"
• Shelf #3 to Shelf #2: 11 1/4"
• Shelf #2 to Shelf #1: 9"

Repeat steps 1-10, adjusting your measurements per the shelf spacing listed above, until you have cut 5 pairs of stopped dados for Shelves 2-6.

Here is a guide to help you identify your shelves by width:

• Shelf #1 (top): 8 1/16"
• Shelf #2: 8"
• Shelf #3: 8 9/16"
• Shelf #4: 9 3/8"
• Shelf #5: 10 3/16"
• Shelf #6: 11"
• Shelf #7: 12 1/2"

In order to prep your top and bottom (rabbet) shelves, start by beveling one 31 1/4" side of Shelves #1 and #7 in order to match the front angle of the bookshelf sides. Per the plans, this angle should be 86.4 degrees (or 3.6 degrees, depending on your perspective).

1. Set the angle of your table saw to 86.4 degrees (or as close as you can get).
2. Set your table saw fence to the appropriate width for Shelf #1.
3. Run the Shelf #1 workpiece through your table saw so that the width of one face remains exactly the same, while the width of the opposite face is slightly narrowed, due to the angle of the cut.
4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for Shelf #7.

In order to prep your middle (stopped dado) shelves, it might be wise to cut a shallow rabbet along the underside of the front edge of each shelf. This will provide for easy alignment and better glue contact when you attach the front horizontal braces.

This process will be very similar to the process you used to cut the rabbets for your top and bottom shelves.

1. Adjust the depth of your router bit for 1/16" deep cut.
2. Clamp Shelf #2 securely to your work surface.
3. Use the adjustable square that has been set up for rabbets (router base width + bit, 2.65" in my case) to mark where your straight edge should be placed on the 31 1/4" edge of Shelf #2.
4. Clamp the straightedge in place.
5. With your router unplugged, carefully check the straightedge placement.
6. You should be set up to route a 1/16" deep x 3/4" wide rabbet flush with the 31 1/4" edge of Shelf #2.
7. When you are satisfied with the preparation of your router and straightedge, make the cut, keeping your router level, with the edge of the router base pressed firmly against the straightedge.
8. Turn off your router and check to make sure the cut looks clean and uniform. If there are irregularities, repeat the cut to clean them up.
9. Repeat steps 2-8 for Shelves #3, #4, #5, and #6.

At this point, you should take the opportunity to trim all 7 of your shelves to exactly the same length. If you have a 12" miter saw, you can accomplish this easily by clamping all of the shelves together and trimming each end with as single cut. (This worked well, but resulted in some nasty tear-out and splintering on one of my shelves.)

When you are satisfied that all of the shelves are the same length, it is time to cut notches to accommodate the stopped dados. I chose to do this with a table saw, so I have included that process below. In retrospect, I think the end result would have been better if I had used a router, following the same steps that I have provided for setting up rabbet cuts. The rabbet or "notch" should be 1/4" deep (from the short end of the shelf) and 5/8" wide (from the long side of the shelf).

1. Neatly stack Shelves #2 - #6 (all five shelves with the shallow rabbets) so that the long rabbeted edge is pressed squarely against your table saw fence.
2. Use a square to make sure that the ends to the stack of shelves are flush.
3. Clamp the stack of shelves together, leaving enough space at each short end of the stack for the clamps to pass easily above your table saw fence.
4. Use an adjustable square or scrap of 3/4" plywood to measure the depth of the dado and rabbet cuts that you have made in the long sides of your bookshelf.
5. Adjust your table saw fence to a cut width in which the distance from the left edge of the saw blade to the left face of the fence matches this depth measurement.
6. Adjust your table saw blade to a cut depth of 5/8".
7. Lay the squared up, rabbeted, long edge of your clamped shelf stack on the table saw surface, with one short end of the stack against the fence.
8. Make a 5/8" deep cut in the front (rabbeted) edge of the shelf stack. The left edge of the kerf should be approximately 1/4" from the short edge of the shelf stack.
9. Reverse the shelf stack and repeat this process for the opposite side.
10. Lower the saw blade to a height that matches the approximate 1/4" dado depth measurement.
11. Adjust the saw fence to 5/8" including the kerf (as described in Step 5, above).
12. Place the short edge of the shelf stack on the table saw top, with the rabbeted long edge against the table saw fence.
13. Make the 1/4" deep cut in the short side of the shelf stack. It should mate up with the previous cut to remove a neat, 1/4" x 5/8" rectangle of wood from the corner of each shelf in the stack.
14. Reverse the shelf stack and repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the opposite side.

Dry fitting is necessary to ensure that all of the pieces you have cut and prepared will fit properly. You also need to dry fit the bookcase in order to get an accurate measurement for your front horizontal braces, which will be attached to the underside of Shelves #2 - #6.

At least 3 or 4 - 36" or longer pipe or bar clamps are really useful in this step. Strap clamps are also helpful for keeping the whole bookshelf square.

1. Lay your long bookshelf sides on a large, level surface (like the floor, or a large workbench).
2. With the dados and rabbets facing inwards (toward each other), set the bookshelf sides upright. It should be oriented as if the bookcase were laying on its back, with the long angled edges of the sides facing upward, and the long squared edges of the sides on the floor or workbench.
3. Put the shelves in place, with the shallow rabbets on Shelves #2 - #6 oriented downward, toward Shelf #7. Use clamps to hold the shelves snugly in place.
4. Use a square to check the corners and make adjustments until the whole bookcase is arranged as squarely as possible. You can also measure diagonally, from corner to corner. If the measurements match, the bookcase is square.
5. Label the 5 - 1 1/2" x 31 1/4" workpieces with masking tape for Shelves #2 - #6.
6. Using the corresponding 1 1/2" workpiece as a measuring tool, mark the exact inside width of the underside of Shelves #2 - #6.
7. Trim each 1 1/2" - wide piece to the appropriate length.
8. Drill 2 pocket holes on each end of the 1 1/2" wide pieces.
9. One at a time, apply glue to one long edge of each 1 1/2" wide piece.
10. Use the shallow rabbet on the underside of each shelf to align the 1 1/2" wide piece.
11. Clamp the 1 1/2" wide piece the underside of the shelf. I used a c-clamp at each end and one in the middle (for a total of 3 clamps per shelf).
12. Wipe off any glue squeeze out or drips.
13. Repeat this process for all 5 middle shelves.
14. Allow the glue to dry, preferably overnight.

While the glue on the front shelf braces is drying, you can start preparing the components of your bookshelf's base. The base will be made, entirely, of the five 3 3/8" wide pieces. However, you should NOT actually attach any pieces of the base to the bookshelf until the shelves have been glued in place. Therefore, this step is a bit chronologically ambiguous, but I think you will understand.

1. Set up your miter or table saw for an 8 degree angled cut.
2. Select the two shortest pieces of 3 3/8" wide stock.
3. From those two pieces, cut 8 segments that have a right angle on one end, and an 82 degree on the other end. The longest side should be 5" long. (See the photos for a better idea of the shape.)
4. Arrange these 8 pieces on your workbench to resemble the configuration in the photos.
5. Drill pocket holes in the pieces that will allow you to fasten them into 4 pairs joined at right angles to each other.
6. Drill pocket holes in the pieces that will allow you to fasten these L-shaped pairs to the underside of the bookshelf.
7. Apply wood glue appropriately to the short square ends of 4 of the angled pieces.
8. Join them into 4 L-shaped pairs, using pocket screws. (Again, refer to the photos for a clearer idea of this step.) One-handed clamps are really helpful for holding the two pieces together while you tighten the pocket screws.
9. Apply glue to the 5" edges of the L-shaped pieces.
10. One at a time, clamp the L-shaped pieces to the underside of the bottom shelf of the bookshelf, making sure to orient them correctly in the corners.
11. Fasten the L-shaped pieces, flush, to the bottom corners of Shelf #7.
12. Select two of the remaining 3 3/8" wide x 23" long pieces.
13. Drill pocket holes that will allow the long edge of each piece to be fastened to the underside of Shelf #7. I used 5 pocket holes, evenly spaced in each piece.
14. Use glue and pocket screws to attach the 23" pieces inside, and centered between the L-shaped brackets on the bottom of Shelf #7. (Clamps and a scrap of 3/4" plywood to ensure appropriate spacing are very helpful here.) One of the 23" pieces will go on the front and one on the back faces of the bookshelf base, inset behind the corner brackets.
15. Clamp the bottom edge of the 23" pieces to the corner brackets.
16. Use 1 1/4" deck or drywall screws to attach the long pieces, firmly, to the corner brackets.
17. Select the only remaining 3 3/8" wide piece.
18. Cut it into two pieces (approximately 11" long) that fit tightly inside the short space created between the corner brackets.
19. Drill pocket holes in the two 11" pieces so that they can be screwed to the underside of Shelf #7.
20. Clamp the 11" pieces firmly to the inside of the corner brackets.
21. Use glue and pocket screws to fasten the 11" pieces to the underside of Shelf #7.

22. Use 1 1/4" deck or drywall screws to attach the 11" pieces, firmly, to the inside of the corner brackets.

This is the big moment!

When the glue on your shelf braces has sufficiently cured, loose your clamps and disassemble the dry fit setup. It's time for the real thing.

1. Turn your long bookshelf sides over, so that the bookshelf will now be face down. This means that the open end of the stopped dados should now be facing up.
2. Apply glue to the short sides of Shelf #2 and its brace.
3. Fit the glued ends of the shelf into the stopped dado, and adjust until the back of the shelf is flush with the backs of both shelf sides.
4. Secure the back side of the shelf in place with a clamp.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 for Shelves #3 - #6, working as quickly as you reasonably can.
6. Check the bookshelf for squareness and adjust as necessary.
7. Using a clamp to provide pressure the the underside (front) of Shelf #2, attach the shelf brace to the bookshelf sides with pocket screws.
8. Repeat Step 7 for Shelves #3 - #6.
9. Apply glue to the short ends of Shelf #1.
10. Insert Shelf #1 into its rabbets, with the beveled face oriented appropriately, to match the front angle of the bookcase, and secure it with clamps. The shelf should be flush with the bookshelf sides on all faces.
11. Repeat Step 10 for Shelf #7.
12. Check the whole bookcase for squareness and adjust as necessary.
13. Wipe away any excess glue.
14. Attach the base when you feel comfortable doing so. (I waited about 6 hours.)

Racking is the greatest enemy of bookshelves, particularly tall bookshelves like this one. Attaching a bookshelf securely to the wall with a cabinet screw or two is usually enough to minimize racking and to prevent any danger of the bookshelf crashing down on innocent bystanders.

To this end, you will need to install a brace/mounting strip (for attaching the bookshelf to the wall) under the backside of Shelf #3 and two diagonal braces (for anti-racking support) on the backside of Shelf #7.

1. Select your remaining 31 1/4" long piece of plywood. It should be about 2 9/16" wide. Exact width doesn't matter, as long as it is uniform and the corners are square.
2. Insert this piece into the opening between the bookshelf sides, directly beneath Shelf #3.
3. Mark the width for a very snug fit.
4. Cut the piece to length.
5. Drill pocket holes on each end for attachment to the bookshelf sides and on a few on one long edge for attachment to the underside of Shelf #3.
6. Clamp the brace in place.
7. Attach the brace/mounting strip with glue and pocket screws.
8. Select your remaining significant piece of plywood, which should be approximately 24 7/8" long x 1 7/8" wide. Again, width isn't particularly important as long as it is uniform. (I trimmed mine down to 1 1/2" wide in order to match the front shelf braces.)
9. Find the center of this workpiece and cut through the center at 45 degrees.
10. Trim the ends of your two remaining pieces so that they form two exactly matching trapezoids, with short ends mitered to 45 degrees.
11. Drill pocket holes that will allow these trapezoidal pieces to be installed diagonally inside the bookshelf case.
12. Dry fit the angle braces in the bottom back corner of the bookshelf, so that they will be fastened to the bookshelf sides and to the top of Shelf #7.
13. Check for properly square installation by making sure that the horizontal and vertical ends of the braces are equidistant from each respective corner.
14. Attach the braces in both corners with glue and pocket screws. (If you have one, a right-angle pocket hole clamp will be very useful.)
15. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

After your glue has fully cured, enlist the help of a friend and set up your bookcase. Since this bookcase is too tall to fit through a standard door, vertically, you will need to tip it on its side to move it from room to room.

As previously mentioned, you should secure it to a wall stud through the back brace beneath Shelf #3 when you have chosen a final resting place for your new bookshelf.

1. Step back and admire your handiwork.
2. Load up your new shelf with books.
3. Brace for the flood of requests that will inevitably pour in from your friends and relatives for you to build them one of these marvelous bookshelves.