One Day Lightsaber

This instructable will demonstrate how to build a quality Lightsaber in one day. Normally it takes many weeks and countless hours when I build a Lightsaber. This version will be less sophisticated yet still be a wearable and displayable energy weapon. I always recommend designing your own Lightsaber and never copying the original. The originals have been copied and reproduced to death. Plus, I love having something no one else has. This version will be machined on a metal lathe and drill press only. I use 6061 aluminum because its easy to find and it anodizes well.
Any step of this instructable can be modified depending on what you have available, materials, tools, etc. After a final polishing and assembly, all aluminum parts will be anodized black at a later date.
This Lightsaber project requires only the very basics of lathe machining. All main fasteners are 1/4-28 set screws which provide sufficient strength for assembling. Complete artistic freedom should be applied to any and all steps so you end up with a Lightsaber that will truly be unique...young Padawan.

Metal Lathe
Drill Press
Vise
Aluminum stock in various diameters
Brass stock in various diameters
Hacksaw or bandsaw
Selection of drillbits
Miscellaneous fasteners and set screws

The front emitter is machined from 1.5 inch diameter aluminum about 2.25 inches long. Use a center drill before drilling a 1/2 hole about 1 inch deep. Machine a pleasing taper. Then with a cut-off blade, machine evenly spaced slots about 3/16 inch deep. Now drill a 7/32 inch hole deep enough to clear through the entire piece. Tap 1/4-28 threads for attaching an emitter cap. Sand and polish till smooth. Use a cut-off blade or hacksaw to cut the part away. Machine the other side flat. Done!
The last photo has rubber O rings in the slots to help demonstrate the look when the finished Lightsaber is anodized black and some areas remachined to reveal silver against black.

The emitter cap is machined from 1-1/8 inch brass stock. A 3/8 inch diameter hole is drilled about 3/4 inches deep. Now drill a 1/4 inch through hole for attaching to the emitter. Sand and polish for a smooth look and feel.

The emitter shaft is machined from 1 inch aluminum rod about 1-3/4 inches long. Drill both ends with a 7/32 bit and tap 1/4-28 threads about 3/8 inch deep. Machine wide at one end and 3/4 inch at the other. Sand and polish smooth.

Assemble the front sections with 1/4-28 set screws and proceed to step 5.

The center barrel section is machined from 1-3/4 inch aluminum stock. Drill a 7/32 inch center hole on each end and tap 1/4-28 threads 1/2 inch deep. Machine each end flat. Carefully layout 12 drill points for 3/16 inch holes. Center punch for each hole and drill at least 1/4 inch deep. Now drill 3/32 inch holes inside of the 3/16 inch holes about a 1/4 inch deeper. Carefully tap 4-40 threads into these smaller holes. Be mindful young Padawans as these small taps can break easily! Lubricate as needed.

Machine heat disapators from 3/16 inch brass stock. Make each one 3/4 inch long and center drill (very important for these small parts). Now drill a 3/32 inch hole and tap 4-40 threads about 1/8 inch deep and insert a set screw. Repeat 11 more times for a total of 12 parts.
This step took over an hour and was the most tedious of the whole project. Be careful of those 4-40 taps as they can break easily. Lubricate as needed!

After the barrel has been tapped for 4-40 threads, screw in all 12 disapators and machine the entire assembly. Now unscrew each disapator and machine a slight chamfer on the machined edge and reinsert. This assembly is finished!

With a 1/4-28 set screw, attach the barrel assembly to the emitter shaft and proceed to step 9.

A coupling is machined from 2 inch diameter brass stock. Drill a 7/32 inch hole the full length of the part and tap for 1/4-28 threads. A slitting blade is used to define 3 sections. Then round over the edges till they are smooth. They can be completely round or angled a bit. Choose whatever looks good to you. Cut this piece off and machine the other side flat.

Insert a 1/4-28 set screw and attach to the center barrel. Proceed to step 11 for transition plate.

This part will smoothly transition the brass coupling to the handle. Machined from 2 inch aluminum stock. Drill a 1/4 inch hole through the entire piece and countersink a 7/16 inch hole for a 1/4-28 button cap screw to slide into. The handle will fit onto this piece and tighten in place with 6 set screws. Sand and polish.

The handle will be about 6.5 inches long and machined from 1-5/8 inch diameter aluminum, 1/8 inch thick wall. One end will have 6 evenly spaced 6/32 inch set screws. This will allow for easy access into the handle for future upgrades...electronics, storage, etc.

This end cap for the handle will be machined for a very tight fit and will have to be pressed on. If machined properly, the end cap will be permanently attached. Once it's pressed on, you will not be able to remove it so take care with this step.
This cap piece is machined from 2 inch aluminum stock. Create a 1/2 inch deep shoulder that will tightly fit into the handle end. Drill and tap 1/4-28 threads about 1/2 inch deep.
Now carefully press the cap into the handle end. An arbor press (best), large vise or a heavy rubber mallet will seat the end cap securely.

The handle needs some grooves for positive gripping. Machine 12 evenly spaced concave grooves about a 1/4 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep. At a later time when the parts are anodized black, the grooves will be re-sanded and polished for a nice finishing touch. Black, silver, black, silver etc.

The end is in sight! A brass lanyard will finish this project and allow the Lightsaber to be attached to your belt. Machine this part from 1-3/4 inch brass stock. Drill and tap threads for a 1/4-28 set screw. This part is about 3/16 inch thick.
The round end ball is machined from 1/2 inch brass stock. After sanding and polishing, cut off and machine the other side flat. Drill and tap for 1/4-28 threads about 3/8 inch deep. Now drill an 1/8 inch cross hole for a brass ring.
Slowly "hand" wrap 1/8 inch brass rod around a 7/16 inch drillbit several times. With a hacksaw, cut out a ring. Remove about 1/4 inch extra from the
ring and then chamfer each end. Now carefully open the ring till it can fit over the ball and press into place. Use a vice with 2 pieces of wood and press the ring until it seats well.

This project took over 9 hours and and I can tell you that I'm pooped! Total length is about 14 inches and weighs 2.5 pounds. When I have enough parts from other projects, I will disassemble this Lightsaber and have it anodized black. Some of its parts will be remachined to reveal a nice contrast. But for now this instructable project is finished!
A final message to all young Padawans. Never be afraid to build your own Lightsaber any way you want. Any of these steps can and should be modified to suit your own needs. The ultimate goal is to construct a Lightsaber that reflects your own personality and the materials and tools you have at your disposal. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions.
The last photos show this Lightsaber next to a more sophisticated one to help demonstrate the effects of anodizing and many more hours of building.
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU