Oh Snap, How to Fix the Roll Up Door! (garage Door)

Relax Space Cadet, Were here to help you get back in track, and straight enough to preform bare minimum operative functions. Plus a little Physics thrown in.

Contain your irritation, even if you loose your business and finally get divorced you'll still be glad you did. If you draw a crowd (and people who have work to do are desperate for first hand door party whitness status, thus making the information they later manipilate to defame you a kind of journalistic integrity) and people start to try and help you beware this is a bid for power in disguise, they dont want to help you they want to show you how a small a person you are or worse yet actually help you use it later to extort you for sexual favors via guilt pathways but worst case here you really are the omega to their beta let Dr. Egoboner take over and try to fix it but be sure they know that they have taken ownership of the crisis and do everything in your power to frustrate and humiliate while doing exactly as they say.

Better yet let no-one help you, your the one with skin in the game and you can skin it however you can't test two methods at the same time without sacrificing statistical significance, and they already know your the moron who wrecked the door. You've got nothing to loose, and if you let them help to be nice and let them get credit for fixing your mess, they'll make sure whatever method you choose confirms their world view. Send everyone with vocal cords home if you can, or set them to some other task. Go pour yourself a coffee and call the people your were going to see and announce the "door party" and that your going to be there 24 hours late. Don't give them more than this one reason or they will add you to the long list or unreliable witnesses, don't apologize, they will hear the will hear the word roll up door and instantly know your sorry that your parents were ever in the same room together.

My approach to the door party is get the twisted wreck down near the ground as soon as possible where the bumpers and access abound. The latter is one of the few tools in the shop that will totally ruined your life or even kill you. So heres a few scenery and what I think is safe and reasonable but if you like you like areal demolition derbies you can be a test pilot can just skip ahead to the "Equal and opposite reenactment" section Please send photos, your my hero. The reason I have the vice is that this was Scenario 2 as in I had to force the thing half way back into shape with a beam that served to support roll door tracks as well as give me a place to pull from. Being a betting man I would have just came around and hit it from the other side but the truck and protruding rack were all caged in.

Evaluate.

Scenario 1: the door still goes down. Do not go up! Once a door more than an inch out of it wack clears the c Chanel guides and goes up onto the roll you might as well grab a few valuables and catch a bus to an exotic location like palm springs, hawk your stuff as soon as you drive (bottle necks are the mothers of all squeezes) AFTER IMPACT DO NOT FOR ANY REASON roll the tangled mess further away from the ground, motor or chain its a curtain on a shaft id hate to have to thread a greasy pinchy role door underneath the cover an back into the channels perched off to the side on a "dear osha latter. So if your one of those rare hesitant ease your way into the day lightfoot fabricator types, and the door goes down. Take her down to bumper level and skip to "cold setting" or equal and opposite reenactment..

Scenario 2. If the doors won't budge via chain nor motor, you can can use a couple of come alongs or ratchet straps attached to clamps (padded at door) on one end and the bumper of the offending vehicle at the other. You want to pull from the center and directly down. If one side falls faster than the other your going to have to balance force with additional ratchet straps. I used three and since a car parked right up against the door blocks access I tied full length 2x4s to the low end of the ratchet straps and just used body weight to leaver my door down

(see ms paint drawing)

Once its down you can move on to to the blocking/re-enforcement section and then the final equal and opposite reenactment slash cold setting to perfection.

If the door has come all the way out of the tracks call the nice people again and tell them 48 hours is more like it.

Scenario 3: As far as philosophy is concerned we're always in shit, it's just a matter or how deep and this is some deep shit indeed. If the door is bent or bowed more than 8 inches out, it could be a sharp crease in the middle or a sharp crease on one end or the other or both ends. If its the old bulge crease continuum wang dinger your no better off I assure you, but like I said so long as you maintained face and insulted everyone good ideas before claiming them as your own your on the right track, to seeking out some kind of a living in metal.

If you can unbolt the channel on one side of the door get a ratchet on an impact gun and pull it. Leave the top bolt in so you don't have to keep someone over time. or you can money up and swallow your pride and use an angle grinder and make one slit at at a time and slice the material and I know you its your worst day every your keeping so well concealed but mark your cuts with a sharpie and cut along the lines making several passes. (your not cutting the door, your cutting the guide channel you will weld back in at like midnight) do not plunge a cut off wheel into any cut unless absolutely necessary, for one it tends to grab and break the wheel and your knuckles and of course even if you don't fall off the latter and go through several wheels your cut won't be straight so take passes and enjoy the inhaled fiberglass and blade dust like the ill tempered neanderthal or reprobate or at least a back of the class doesn't sit still type you most likely are. Send someone for a six pack or maybe several, send the person who is most likely to talk shit about you to tell the neighborhood whats up and that your handling it like a boss. Guide the door down with any of my aforementioned methods or be a rebel and make up your own stupid way. Observe that the door is made up of lateral interlocking strips. see if you can't get the bent section free by sliding it latterly a few slats up above the deformation. Once you've got it out block the door up and pad the lower edge so the the angle iron (usually alloy) dent get flattened. Ramp a board up onto the stack. Keep fingers clear if you still have any left. Dive slowly onto the pile. If you went to flip the door section over and remove a 2x4 from the stack and go again. Now stomp the screwed up thiner lateral strips into line. Once you've got it flat, test roll, if it doesn't roll you can just accept that your roll up door upper limit took a hair cut, or you can cut out bad section and make a mail drop. If the damage is on one side you can cut down the width and fabricate a cage for a man door an thats always good. Trouble is that that will require careful planning and your all pissed off and bleeding money and probably getting Pidgin holed as yet another west coast flake for making excuses. Call around try to find used old grade door section or a like 200 feet of 10 gauge stainless steel piano hinge and make your own custom lower end of the door and then polish it all to look like the spirit of saint lewis. Keeping in mind doing too good a job is for chumps and that a entire brand new door can be had for like 12K, In any case once you pull it all together and get it all back in the tracks you must tack, and I say tack the cut out section back in place and somehow get it down and locked or your camping at the shop and maybe even doing a little of that aforementioned, Empathizing.