Oak and Cypress Kegerator Lid With NukaTap Mini

I built a wooden lid to convert a top-loading refrigerator/freezer into a kegerator. It uses the Nukatap Mini beer faucet and 5/8" tubing extending down through a single hole in the top of a convertible freezer.

The countertop is made of 1/2" plywood sized to the lid, plus 1/4" on each side to fit into the frame, plus clearance for a snug but not tight fit.

The frame or border of the lid is made of cypress. I routed a 1/2" groove 1/4" from the top of a cypress 2x10. Next I cut the bevels on each double-width section. Then I ripped the sections in half to create the four sides of the lid.

Wood glue and some clamps hold it together. It is tricky to align the bevels and the plywood inset into the grooves all at the same time.

The mini tower is made of red oak. I used the table saw to create 45 degree bevels on both sides of a long board. Then I cut the board into four pieces to make the tower, and glued it together.

A piece at the bottom of the mini tower holds it together, and is later screwed into the countertop.

Once I decided where I wanted the tower, I drilled a smal hole through the center and down into the freezer lid to mark its location, and then I was able to drill a 10mm hole in the freezer lid. A 3d-printed ferrule makes up the difference between the hole size and the tubing size, protecting both.

This setup is perfect for home use. Since there is little liquid in the line, and no bulky metal tap to cool, you're getting fresh cold beer in no time when you pull the handle.

1. NukaTap Mini Beer Faucet
2. NukaTap Mini Wall Mount Shank Kit (duotight 8mm 5/16)
3. 5/16" (8mm) draft tubing, 5.5' length
4. Small "convertible" freezer with refrigerator thermostat range
5. 1/2" Cabinet-grade Plywood
6. 2x10x8' Cypress Plank for border, lid
7. 3x7/16"x40" Thin Hardwood Plank for tower
8. Wood Glue
9. Painter's Tape
10. Corner Clamps (many 3d-printable options)
11. #6 Brass Wood Screws
12. 10mm drill bit suitable for metal, for drilling through the freezer lid
13. Primer
14. Paint
15. Sandpaper
16. Polyurethane
17. Boiled Linseed Oil

A convertible freezer has a built-in refrigerator/freezer thermostat. Another option is to use a separate temperature controller with the freezer. Mine is set to the coldest available refrigerator temperature.

Measure the lid. This will determine the size of the project. My countertop is made of 1/2" plywood sized to the lid, plus 1/4" on each side to notch into the frame, plus clearance for a snug but not tight fit.

The frame or border of the lid is made of cypress. Route a 1/2" groove 1/4" from both sides of a 2x10. Next use a circular saw to cut 45° bevels on each double-width section. Then rip the sections in half to create the four sides of the lid.

Check the fit. Then apply stain to the frame. Prime, sand, and paint the plywood lid to give it a smooth finish.

Apply wood glue to the inside bevels and groove of the frame. Using corner clamps, clamp the frame to the plywood countertop. It's tricky to keep everything aligned, and to have the plywood and the bevels all align at the same time.

After the glue dries, is a good time to apply a polyurethane sealer to the countertop.

Decide how high your tower needs to be to fit a glass. Mine is 10" high.

Using a table saw, rip 45° bevels on both sides of the thin board. Cut the board into 10" sections.

Use tape to connect the sections, glue, and fold into a square tube.

Once it's dried, drill a hole for the tap.

Add a piece in the base that will be used to attach the tower to the countertop. Attach with 4 countersunk #6 screws from either side of the tower.

Apply your desired finish to the tower. I used wood stain, boiled linseed oil, and polyurethane.

Using an extra piece of the softwood, build a lid for the tower.

Decide where the tower should go, then mark the lid. With the lid on top of the freezer, drill a small hole (1/8") through the middle of the tower to mark the top of the freezer.

Drill a 10mm hole down through the metal, insulation, and plastic in the freezer lid. The lid is mostly safe to drill, unlike the sides of a chest freezer which contain refrigerant coils.

Using a 3d printer, make a tube that takes up the difference between the hole in the lid and the 5/16" tubing size, with a flat piece on the top. Mine is 10mmx60mm with a 9mm hole. Hot glue this ferrule into the freezer lid to protect the tubing and insulation.

Drill a 3/4" hole through the plywood countertop matching where the freezer lid is drilled. The tubing will pass up through the freezer lid, through the plywood and the tower tailpiece, and to the beer faucet.

Drill 4 countersunk screw holes through the underside of the plywood countertop to meet the corners of the tower tailpiece. Use #6 screws to firmly attach the tower to the countertop.

Screw the faucet wall mount kit into pre-drilled holes in the tower, with a center hole for the beer line. Use short screws. The back part and long included screws are not needed.

Pass the beer line up through the freezer lid, tower, and faucet hole. Push firmly into the push-to-connect faucet piece.

Screw the faucet onto the wall mount kit.

Attach a keg to the other side of the beer line. Check for leaks!

Admire your work, and enjoy a cold beverage!