3D Printed Nutating Disk Air Engine

This is an air engine with a nutating disk. It runs on compressed air and starts operating at around 10 psi. A big advantage is that it doesn't have any valves, pistons, or cranks. However, you might face a few challenges during the build that I didn't show in the video.

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All the necessary parts are listed in the picture if I remember correctly, you won't need any other parts.

1. 6 M3x30 bolts&nuts
2. 11 M2x6 bolts
3. 5 MR128 bearings
4. 1/8'' - 8mm pneumatic fitting
5. 1 mm rubber sheet (Approximately 50mm in diameter, 2 pieces needed.)

All the 3D printed parts were made with PLA+

I also had most of the parts 3D printed in clear SLA at JLC3DP, they turned out incredibly beautiful and it worked well with that too. By the way, I didn’t get to mention it in the video, but huge thanks to them for sponsoring this project/video!

1. Before attaching the top disk, you'll need to secure the bushing with a small ring called a bushing lock. Make sure this is fastened well because it shouldn’t move when you apply air pressure.
2. I wrapped some tape around it first and then slid the bushing lock tightly over it, and that worked great for me. (It won’t be an issue if it shifts when the engine isn’t under pressure, but once you apply air, if it’s not locked down properly, the disk will get stuck.)

1. If you're not satisfied with the surface quality of the inner wall of the casing, you can do a light sanding.
2. I added a 0.5 mm thick paper gasket before closing the casing.

1. After you've finished assembling, make sure the output shaft rotates freely and that the disk nutates without getting stuck or rubbing against anything. If there's any jamming, check the clearance between the partition in the engine block-A and the disks—this might require some extra sanding (I had to sand quite a bit, as you can see in the video).
2. I also sanded the gap on the disk quite a bit, but that might not be necessary for you; I think it's due to the 3D printing.

1. After assembling the engine block with M2 bolts, if the holes for the gasket covers on the top and bottom don’t align ( which can happen because I added paper gaskets between the motor case parts ), you can sand the edges of the engine block.
2. Just make sure to take your time and be careful not to cause any jamming with the disk.

1. Another thing is the thin ring called "unnamed." You can glue it in place during assembly. I added this part intentionally after making sure everything was aligned and working smoothly, and it's definitely necessary.

1. The gasket drawing is available in the files as a 1:1 scale.
2. I made this from a 1mm rubber sheet, but I thought maybe TPU 3D printing could work too.