Nintendo Switch Carrying Case

We needed a carrying case for the Nintendo Switch, so I decided to see if I could make one. I included storage for games and the controller straps. My husband requested a Pokéball look, which inspired the color scheme.

This is definitely a bit more of an advanced project, I wouldn’t recommend it to beginner sewers, mostly because there are a lot of layers of fabric to keep track of, and sewing along the 3D shape can get a bit tricky. But now we know it’s definitely possible to make your own protective cover for your handheld gaming consoles.

What you’ll need:

- Water resistant fabric

- Fleece fabric

- Quilt batting

- Plastic binder

- 70 cm two-way zipper (27,5 inch)

- 25 mm elastic (1 inch)

- 25 mm polyester binding (1 inch)

- Velcro

- Extra strong sewing machine needles (mine were denim needles)

- Matching thread

- Sewing clips

- Pins

- Temporary spray adhesive or another kind of fabric adhesive

- Sewing machine

- Scissors

- Pinking shears

- Measuring tape

You can watch the video or read the steps here, whatever you prefer.

I started with the top and bottom of the case. I cut two plastic pieces out of a plastic binder to act as a protective layer inside the case. I cut them slightly bigger than the outer size of the Switch. This will also be the shape and size of the case.

I then cut the fabric layers for the top and bottom. First up are two layers of quilt batting that are the same size as the plastic pieces.

I then made a pattern for the other pieces by adding 1,5 centimeters of seam allowance around the sides. For the outside, I cut a red and a white piece of water resistant fabric. For the inside, I cut two layers of soft fleece fabric.

The top and bottom are each a sandwich of the outer water resistant layer, the protective plastic, quilt batting and inner fleece layer.

Before assembling the top and bottom, I added straps and pockets to the inside layers. For the bottom piece, I cut four pieces of elastic, which will be connected in the middle by Velcro. I used a lighter to finish the edges of the elastic, folded over a small edge on each of the pieces and stitched it down. I then stitched pieces of Velcro to the elastic. I checked where I wanted the straps to be placed and stitched them to the sides of the fleece.

For the top, I wanted a place to hold the controller straps. I cut another piece of elastic, folded over the edges and stitched them down. I then attached the elastic to the fleece.

I also want pockets to hold six game cartridges. I figured out the configuration and cut two pieces of elastic. After folding the edges over and stitching them down, I pinned the pieces on the fleece and sewed along the bottom and sides. I then marked the size of the individual pockets and stitched lines to separate them.

Now I’m ready to assemble the top and bottom. To keep the plastic and batting in place while I make the rest of the case, I’m using temporary spray adhesive that I have left over from when I made a quilt. I sprayed the layers and sandwiched them all together. First the fleece, then the batting, the plastic and finally the water resistant fabric. I then sewed all the way around to keep everything in place.

To make the sides, I started by adding side pieces to the zipper. I cut two 5 centimeter (2 inch) wide pieces of black water resistant fabric that are just as long as the zipper. I then placed the zipper right sides together on one of the strips and sewed all the way along the edge. I flipped the fabric over and top-stitched it down on the zipper to make it lie nice and flat. I used pinking shears to finish the edges of the fabric to prevent it from fraying. I repeated these steps on the other side of the zipper.

When you get close to the zipper pulls, just lift up the presser foot and pull them to the other side.

I cut a piece of black fleece and a piece of black water resistant fabric of the same size. These pieces will form the back of the case, with the zipper forming the rest of the sides. As an extra buffer I’m adding a layer of fleece to the inside of the sides. I cut two strips of fleece that are 5 centimeters (2 inch) wide and can reach all the way around the case. I folded them in half and stitched them down close to the edge. I then placed them on the inside of the zipper, so that they completely cover the teeth, and stitched them in place.

For the back, I put the outside piece of fabric right sides together with the zipper and stitched it down. Go slow whenever you sew across a zipper to make sure you don’t damage your needle or machine.

I then placed the fleece right sides together with the inside of the zipper and stitched it down in the same place. I cut off the excess fabric and zipper. I also cut away some excess fabric on the sides.

I measured the outside of the case pattern to make the sides to size. I marked the correct length and cut the zipper to size. I folded the ends of the back inside and placed the zipper end in between. I then stitched it down close to the edge.

Now I’m ready to assemble the case. I used clips to attach the side to the top, right sides together. Along the way, it started pulling itself into its 3D shape. I sewed all the way around, following the 3D shape as best as I could. Now it’s really starting to look like something!

I folded nylon binding around the inside seam to cover it up and give the case some strength. I sewed it in place all the way around. This was pretty tricky, since the case was really holding that 3D shape now. So I went slow and made sure I sewed threw the binding on both sides.

A test fit showed it was all looking good, so I moved on to attaching the bottom in the same way. First, I clipped the pieces together and sewed them in place. Then I added the binding. The clips are really great here, since there’s no way I would’ve been able to stick pins through all these thick layers. My extra strong sewing machine needle is also doing its job well, punching through all those layers.

Now I can flip the case the right side out. And it’s done!