Nautical Themed Clock
I served 24 years in the Navy, and I came up with the idea to create a nautical-themed clock. After much design consideration, I decided the frame of the clock could resemble a porthole. Instead of using traditional numbers on the clock face, I opted for signal pennants to represent the hours. To ensure accuracy, I did a quick search for signal flags since my memory was a bit rusty.
Here's how I made this clock. I’ve also attached the LightBurn file in case anyone else wants to make one.
Downloads
Supplies
Here is a list of the supplies I used for this project:
- First and foremost, proper safety glasses for laser cutting.
- X-Tool D-1 Pro 20W laser. (If you have a different laser, adjust the setting appropriately for your machine)
- 3mm Birch Plywood
- Markers to color the pennants
- Gold, Silver and Black spray paint
- Spray polyurethane
- Wood glue
Clock Design
I designed the clock in LightBurn, taking inspiration from pictures of portholes I found online. There are several videos on YouTube about how to design a clock face. I personally like to watch The Louisiana Hobby Guy for his tutorials, as he provides thorough and easy-to-follow instructions on all things LightBurn. Here's the link to his channel, https://www.youtube.com/@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy.
Cutting Out the Pennants
The first thing I cut out were the pennants. I started by using the laser to draw a key that I could color and use as a reference when coloring and applying the pennants to the clock face. You might note that I made an error on the key, so be sure to double- and triple-check your work.
Cutting Out the Clock Face
The next step was cutting out the clock face. I started by finding the center of the 12" x 12" 3mm plywood. (I recommend drawing the center marks on a piece of painter's tape so you won't have to sand away pencil marks later. Remember to remove the tape before cutting.)
Then, I set all the parts as a tool (T1 or T2). I positioned the compass at the center of the clock face to engrave. Next, I marked the locations for the pennants and other layers to draw lines—this will greatly assist during assembly. I measured the diameter of the clock mechanism shaft and centered a circle of that size, setting it to the cut layer. Lastly, I set the perimeter of the clock face to the cut layer.
The order of operations for this first layer was:
- Engrave the compass at the center
- Draw placeholders for the pennants and other layers
- Cut out the center hole for the clock mechanism
- Cut the perimeter
As you cut different layers, you'll need to set the other items as a tool to ensure only one layer is cut at a time. Double-check your settings and set the origin to start in the center.
Assemble the Clock Face
I decided to go ahead and assemble the clock face first, so I could allow the polyurethane to dry completely while I was cutting out the other layers and parts.
This is where drawing placeholders for the pennants is crucial for their correct placement. I first laid the pennants in their spots before gluing to double-check my work. Once satisfied, I glued them down one at a time. After the glue dried, I applied three coats of polyurethane. While it was drying, I proceeded to cut out all the remaining layers and parts.
Cutting Out the Layers and Parts
After finding the center of the plywood blank, I selected the layer and set it to cut. I did this for each layer. The blank space in the center of the layers are where the small parts were laid out. I forgot to take a picture, but you will see it in the LightBurn file.
Painting Layers and Small Parts
Now comes the painting. I painted the body of the porthole gold, the nuts silver, and the bolts and latches black.
Here's a tip: stick the small parts to a piece of painter's tape, then attach the tape to a paper plate. This will help prevent the small parts from being blown away while spraying paint. (Don’t ask how I learned this!)
Final Assembly
Now that all the paint and polyurethane have dried, let's get this clock assembled. Use just enough glue and avoid applying it all the way to the edges, as squeeze-out will be difficult to clean. I also drew out the placement of the nuts, bolts, and latches while cutting out the parts. This makes the assembly process much easier.
Adding the Clock Mechanism
The last step is to add the clock mechanism once all the glue has dried. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with your mechanism.
This was a fun project that I’m proud of. I may make a few more as gifts for my Navy buddies.