National Cash Register Replica 1910 Era

I worked on a play that required an old nonfunctioning cash register, only the drawer needed to open by pulling it. The play took place in the early 1900’s. After doing a bit of research, I found out that they can weight around 200lb, they are made of cast iron, brass and can be very expensive. After discussing with the director, I was asked to create a modified version of an early 20^th century National style cash register, a smaller version to fit on specific set pieces and also light enough for actors to move it, solid enough that it won’t break if it falls.

Tools:

-Utility knife, craft knife

-Cutting mat

-Drill for key holes

-Air stapler

-Glue gun

-Clamps of all size but tape can also work

-Paint brushes, old cloth for paint rubbing

-Silicone fondant mold (yes, for cake, they're great to make trims)

-Laser cutter (can also cut shapes with a scroll saw)

-3D Printer (can also buy filigree ornate from another maker)

-Free filigree ornate 3D files from free 3D website

-Cricut (or hand cut)

-Printer (or hand draw)

-Autodesk Tinkercad to design the shapes

Supplies:

-Tape

-Epoxy resin

-PLA Filament for 3D printing

-Sewing trim

-Polymer clay

-Foamcore

-Cardboard

-Pressboard (1/8")

-Flex-ply (bending plywood 3/16") for the curved top

-Small square 1/2"X1/2" wood bits

-Cardstock (for the numbers in the keys and the total numbers)

-Stiff wire rod (thin) for the price tags in the window

-Plexiglas for the total window section

-Felt for the drawer lining

-Drawer pull knob

-Gold paint of all shades (I used 5) spray paint and acrylic

-Piece of black foam (I reuse dense black foam from electronic packaging or any type of foam works)

Making a mock-up of an ambitious project is a good idea if you're not sure of what it should look like, the size and where it's going to live. It's especially true for actors and directors, they don't generally think spatial and have a hard time imagining how it's going to be. A mock-up is a good way to communicate alterations for size and shape. With this mock-up, it was decided that we wouldn't need a large base drawer, but I was asked to make it the size of the entire footprint of the cash register. Waste of time and material avoided, plus, your mock-up is now your pattern.

It's a good idea to write all your measurements on all your pieces.

-Use the measurements from your mock-up and proceed to draw and cut all pieces. I used Tinkercad from Autodesk to make the 4 side shapes, 2 are the full sides and 2 are the extra frames around the sides, the back with the window opening, the window and then I used a laser cutter to cut all these shapes, but a scroll saw can work as well. The window is plexiglass and the rest is pressboard. If you use a scroll saw to cut plexiglass, put painter's tape where you are going to cut and draw your lines with a marker.

-Cut small bits of wood to glue and staple inside the sides, BEFORE adding the extra trim sides, that way, your extra trim sides will cover the staples used to attach them on the main sides and then staple the front to the small blocks. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of the small blocks but I drew them on the photo where the staples are. Always use wood glue before stapling to make it extra solid.

I used "flexi-ply" for the top, it's a bendable plywood, very fun to work with.

-Drill holes for the typewriter keys (this can be done step 6 too)

-Add the plexiglass (or any clear plastic) window. I glued mine AND I added some black gaff tape to be safe.

-Paint the inside visible section of the window black.

-Measure and create the drawer. I used a free program to make the drawer and then laser cut it, it's supposed to hold together without glue because of the box joints (also called finger joints) but I wanted to be safe, and I glued it all. Add a piece of felt to make it nice and I also rub a little paraffin (candle wax) on the sides to make it open and close smoothly.

-Add a decorative and functional drawer pull if it needs to open.

-Using a cake fondant silicone mold from a craft or cake store, make the trim. I use polymer clay, bake following the package instruction but remove a few minutes before the baking time suggested to keep it a bit more malleable. Cut to fit and cut 45 degrees angle to make mitered corners.

-Glue on the drawer.

-I used free files from a free 3D printing website (like Thingiverse) by searching filigree ornate and typewriter keys.

These can also be purchased from sellers who make 3D objects.

-Spray paint the typewriter keys, I poke them in foam to make it easier.

-Glue on the filigrees where you want them to be all over the cash register, I used epoxy.

-Using a printer or markers, make the numbers for the typewriter keys and might as well make the total price tags that goes in the window. I used a cream color cardstock, not stark white, it needs to look old.

-Use a stiff thin wire rod to attach the price tags that will go in the window. I made them double sided because the "customer" needs to see the total and so is the cashier.

-Add (glue) a piece of foam(black or paint it to make it less visible) on the inside, just below the window to poke the price tag rod in them.

-Glue the numbers in the typewriter keys and add a nice blob of resin epoxy to make them look shiny and old.

-I used a simple, easy to find fabric trim from a fabric store. 3D printed or polymer clay can also work for this.

-I used hot glue gun to put the trim all around.

-Tape all the areas that you want to protect.

-I first did a thin coat of gold spray paint. Let it dry and repeat.

-Then I went all over with different gold and brass shades, I used paint brushes, rags to rub and my fingers. Going where the dirt would accumulate is key to make it look old, use a darker gold and even a little bit of brown to dirty it.

-Remove the tape

-Glue in the keys in each holes, I use epoxy to be safe.

-And voila, you have a fancy but light 20th century brass cash register.