Murky (the Murloc) Crochet Doll

I used to play World of Warcraft before I got married. I finally kicked the habit when I had to cancel my subscription to focus on planning the wedding. My husband stopped playing about a year after I did, but lately he has gotten completely hooked on playing Heroes of the Storm.

When I was trying to think of what I wanted to crochet next, he jokingly suggested that I should make him a Murky doll. So I did!

I should warn you that this is not a beginner's project. So if you are new to the world of crochet and amigurumi, you will want to start with some warm up projects to master the basics before you move into Murloc territory! MRGLGLGLGLGLGLLLLLL!!!

Materials:
3.75 mm crochet hook

Worsted weight yarn (green, yellow, blue, bronze, tan, black, white)

Stuffing (such as poly-fil)

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge: Not important for project. Just make sure that your stitches are tight enough that the stuffing will not show through.

Abbreviations:

ch - chain

st - stitch

MR - magic ring

sc - single crochet

sc3tog - single crochet 3 together

sl st - slip stitch

rnd - round

inc- increase (2 sc in the next st)

dec- decrease (sc 2 together)

blo - back loops only

flo - front loops only

hdc - half double crochet

hdc2tog - half double crochet 2 together

bpsc - back post single crochet

Sw to- Switch to (for colour changes)

F/O - fasten off

Notes and Tips:

• The pattern pieces are worked in continuous rounds. After finished the round simply single crochet into the next stitch to start the next round. Using a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round is strongly encouraged. You don’t need to have anything fancy, even a plain bobby pin will do.

• There are stitch counts in brackets at the end of each round to let you know how many stitches there should be at the end of each round.

• You can attach your pieces as you go or you can do it all at the end. I’ve listed what order I attached by pieces together in the Assembly section. When you are doing your assembly it is very helpful to pin the pieces into place before you sew them together. This will help you see what it will look like before it is permanently attached.

• Don’t forget to stuff your project as you go. When working with large round objects it is easy to stuff them near the end (I usually stuff them before I start the last round). When you are making long thin pieces (like hands/arms) it is best to stuff them as you go or it will be hard to get the stuffing down to the ends properly later. You can use the end of your crochet hook to help push the stuffing down to the ends of the limbs.

• Instructions often call for you to F/O with long tail. That means that you will be using the tail to attach the piece to other pieces. Be sure to keep that in mind when you are deciding how long for the tail to be. (for example: a long tail to attach the eyes would not need to be as long as a long tail to attach the belly)

• Bpsc (back post single crochet) are worked under the top loops of a stitch, and around its post -- the vertical part of the stitch. (1) Insert hook from back to front to back around the post of designated stitch, and yarn over. (2) Pull loop from back to front to back. (2 loops on hook.) Yarn over and pull through two loops.

Head/Body - green
Rnd 1: Using green yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] around (18)

Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] around (24)

Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] around (30)

Rnd 6: [inc, sc 13, inc] around (34)

Rnd 7: [inc, sc 15, inc] around (38)

Rnd 8: [inc, sc 17, inc] around (42)

Rnds 9-11 : Sc around (42)

Rnd 12: Sc 41, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 19. Sl st in next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 20 (42)

Rnd 13: Sc 41, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2. Sl st in next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 24 (46)

Rnd 14: Sc 27, inc, sc 11, inc, sc 6 (48)

Rnd 15: Sc, sl st. Move the st marker to the next st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 29. Sl st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 30 (48)

Rnd 16: Sc 47, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 29. Sl st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 30 (48)

Rnd 17: Sc around (48)

Rnd 18: Sc, sl st. Move the st marker to the next st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 33. Sl st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 34 (48)

Rnd 18: Sc 47, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 33. Sl st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 34 (48)

Rnd 19: Working in the flo, sc 13. Working again in both loops, [sc, dec] 11 times, sc 2 (37)

Rnd 20: Sc around (37)

Rnd 21: Sc 36, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 22. St st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. [Sc, inc] 11 times, sc. (48)

Rnd 22: Sc, sc 11 in the flo, sc 35, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 33. Sl st in the next st, turn and sc in the sl st. Sc 4, inc, sc 23, inc, sc 5 (50)

Rnd 23: [sc 4, inc] around (60)

Rnds 24-31: Sc around (60)

Rnd 32: Sc 15, [dec, sc 6] 2 times, dec, sc 9, [dec, sc 6] 2 times, dec (54)

Rnds 33-34: Sc 53, sl st. Turn and sc in the sl st, sc 33. Sl st in the next st, run and sc in the sl st, sc 34 (54)

Rnds 35-36: Sc around (54)

Rnd 37: [sc 7, dec] around(48)

Rnd 38: [sc 6, dec] around (42)

Rnd 39: [sc 5, dec] around (36)

Rnd 40: [sc 4, dec] around (30)

Rnd 41: Sc around (30)

Rnd 42: [sc 3, dec] around (24)

Rnd 43: [sc 2, dec] around (18)

Rnd 44: [sc, dec] around (12)

Rnd 45: Dec around (6)

F/O

Hands/Arms (make 2) - blue, green

Finger A:

Rnd 1: Using blue yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: [sc, inc] around (9)

Rnd 3: Sc around (9)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec] around (6)

Rnds 5-8 : Sc around (6)

F/O.

Finger B:

Rnd 1: Using blue yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: [sc, inc] around (9)

Rnd 3: Sc around (9)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec] around (6)

Rnds 5-7 : Sc around (6)

F/O.

Finger C:

Rnd 1: Using blue yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: [sc, inc] around (9)

Rnd 3: Sc around (9)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec] around (6)

Rnds 5-8 : Sc around (6)

Move onto hand instructions.

Hand:

Rnd 9: Sc 3 in Finger C. Ch 2. Hold Finger A next to your work and sc 6 in Finger A. Sc 2 in the chain. Sc 3 in Finger C. (14 & 2 ch)

Rnd 10: Sc 3, sc 2 in the free loops of the ch. Sc 11 (16)

Rnd 11-13: Sc around (16)

Rnd 14: Sc 8. Hold Finger B next to your work and sc 6 in Finger B, sc 8 in the hand (22)

Rnd 15: Sc around (22)

*Instructions for Rnds 16-17 change for the left and right hand.

Left hand:

Rnd 16: Sc 8, dec 2, sc3tog, dec, sc 5 (17)

Rnd 17: Sc 10, dec, sc 5 (16)

Right Hand:

Rnd 16: Sc 5, dec, sc3tog, dec 2, sc 8 (17)

Rnd 17: Sc 5, dec, sc 10 (16)

Rnd 18: Hdc around (16)

Rnd 19: Bpsc around (16)

Rnd 20: Sc around (16)

Rnd 21: Hdc around (16)

Rnd 22: Bpsc around (16)

Rnds 23-29: Sc around (16)

Rnd 30: [Sc 2, dec] around (12)

Rnd 31: Sc around (12)

Rnd 32: Dec around (6) Sl st into next st

Make sure that your arm is stuffed before you start the next section. You will need to see how it looks stuffed to placed your sl sts.

Using blue yarn, sl st 9 in a circle into the arm to form the elbow and start the upper arm. (see picture for placement)

Upper Arm:

Rnd 1: Sc around (9)

Rnd 2: [Using blue yarn, sc 2. Using green yarn, inc] around (12)

Rnd 3: [Using blue yarn, sc. Using green yarn, sc 3] around (12)

Switch to green yarn

Rnd 4-7: Sc around (12)

*Instructions for Rnds 8-12 change for the left and right arms.

Left Arm

Rnd 8: Sc 6, in flo inc 6, (18)

Rnd 9-11: Sc around (18)

Rnd 12: Sc 6, dec 6 (12)

Right Arm

Rnd 8: In flo inc 6, sc 6 (18)

Rnds 9-11: Sc around (18)

Rnd 12: Dec 6, sc 6 (12)

Rnd 13: Sc around (12)

Rnd 14: Dec around (6)

F/O with long tail.

Toes (make 6) - blue
Rnd 1: Using blue yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: [sc, inc] around (9)

Rnd 3: Sc around (9)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec] around (6)

Rnds 5-8 : Sc around (6)

F/O with long tail (to attach toe to foot and webbing)

Feet/Legs (make 2) - blue, green

Rnd 1: Using blue yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] around (18)

Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] around (24)

Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] around (30)

*you are going to make the webbing for Murky’s toes now. The next rnd calls for you to place a marker, that will be where you continue working up the foot after the webbing is done.

Row 6: Working in the flo, Sc, hdc 8. Place a st marker in the next st. Ch 1 & turn (9)

Row 7: Hdc 8, ch 1 & turn (8)

Row 8: Hdc 8 (8) F/O

Rnd 6: Attach yarn in the marked st to start making the top of the foot. Ch 1. Working in the blo, sc in the same st. Sc 21. Continue by working in the blo row 5, sc 9. (30)

Rnd 7: Dec, sc 17, dec, hdc, hdc2tog, hdc 3, hdc2tog, hdc (26)

Rnd 8: Sc, dec, sc 13, dec, sc, hdc, hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog, hdc (22)

Rnd 9: Sc 21. sl st 1. (22)

Rnd 10: Sw to green. Sc 6, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 10 (20)

Rnd 11: Sc 3, inc 10, sc 3, dec 2 (28)

Rnd 12: Sc 8, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 10 (30)

Rnd 13: Sc around (30)

Rnd 14: Sc 8, dec, sc, dec, sc 2, dec, sc, dec, sc 10(26)

Rnd 15: Sc around (26)

Rnd 16: Sc 5, dec, [sc 2, dec] three times, sc 7 (22)

Rnd 17: Sc around (22)

Rnd 18: Inc, sc 5, dec 4, sc 5, inc, sc 2 (20)

Rnd 19: Sc around (20)

Rnd 20: Sc 5, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7 (18)

Rnd 21: Sc around (18)

Row 22: Sc 2, sl st and place st marker to the next st (this will be the new beginning of rnd). Turn. Sc in the sl st, sc 6, sl st. Turn. Sc in the sl st, Sc 7. (8)

Rnd 23: Sc. Working in flo, [inc, sc] 4 times . Working in both loops again, sc 9. (22)

Rnd 24: Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 7, sl st. Turn. Sc in the sl st, sc 6, sl st. Turn. Sc in the sl st, Sc 7. (26) Rnd 25: Inc, sc 16, inc, sc, inc, sc 4, inc, sc (30)

Rnds 26-32 : Sc around (30)

Rnd 33: [sc 3, dec] around (24)

Rnd 34: [sc 2, dec] around (18)

Rnd 35: [sc, dec] around (12)

Rnd 36: Dec around (6)

F/O with long tail

Chest - tan
Circle A

Rnd 1: Using tan yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] around (18)

Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] around (24)

F/O

Circle B

Repeat Rnds 1-4 of Circle A and do not F/O. Continue to Rnd 5.

Rnd 5: Sc 6. Sk 4 sts, place and marker in the next st. Hold the circle A next to your work and sc 20 around it. Sc into the marked st from Circle B. Sc 14 around (40)

Row 6: Sc 4, hdc 4, sc 4, sl st. Ch 1 & turn (12)

Row 7: Sk the sl st, sc in the next st. Sc 11. Ch 1 & turn (12)

Rows 8-11: Sc 12. Ch 1 & turn (12)

Row 12: Sc, dec, sc 6, dec, sc (10)

Row 13: Sc across (10)

Row 14: Sc, dec, sc 4, dec, sc (8)

Row 15: Sc across (8)

Row 16: Sc, dec, sc 2, dec, sc (6)

Row 17: Sc, dec 2, sc (4)

Rnd 18: Sc evenly around the edges of the whole chest.

F/O with long tail (for attaching the chest to the body)

Upper Lip - green, bronze
Using green yarn, ch 35.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 11, hdc 10, sc 12 (34) *when you cut the green leave a long tail to sew to upper edge of the lip to the face.

Row 2: Sw to bronze. Ch 1 & turn. Working in the flo, sc 12, hdc 10, sc 12 (34)

Row 3: Ch 1 & turn. Working in the blo, Sl st 6, sc 6, hdc 10, sc 6, sl st 6 (34)

F/O with long tail

Low Lips/Jaw - green, bronze, black

Using green yarn, ch 17

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 3, hdc 8, sc 4 (16)

Row 2: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 2, hdc 10, sc 2, inc (18)

Rows 3-4: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 4, hdc 10, sc 4 (18)

Row 5: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 2, hdc 10, sc 2, dec (16) *when you cut the green yarn leave a long tail to attach the jaw to the face

Row 6: Sw to black. Ch 1 & turn. Working in the blo, sc 4, hdc 8, sc 4. Place a st marker in the flo of the first st you worked into.(16)

Row 7: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc, hdc 8, sc, dec (14)

Row 8: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 2, hdc 10, sc 2 (14)

Row 9: Ch 1 & turn. Dec 2, hdc 6, dec 2 (10)

Row 10: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 2, hdc 6, dec 2 (10)

Row 11: Dec, hdc 6, dec (8)

F/O with long tail (to attach black of mouth to the face.)

Go back to the free front loops that were left from row 5. Using green yarn, attach your yarn to the marked stitch and ch 1.

Row 6: Sc 5, hdc, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc 2, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc, sc 5 (18)

Row 7: Sw to bronze. Ch 1 & turn. Working in blo, sc 5, hdc 8, sc 5 (18)

Row 8: Ch 1 & turn. Working in flo, sl st 5, sc, hdc 6, sc, sl st 5

F/O with a long tail (to attach bronze section of lips to the black of the mouth/face)

Teeth - white, grey

Using white yarn, ch 7

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 5 (6)

Rows 2-5: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (6)

F/O with tail (to attach edge of teeth to face)

Using grey (or black yarn) embroider a line down the middle of the teeth. Teeth should be positioned so that the rows will run up and down (vertically) when they are attached to Murky.

Eyes (make 2) - yellow, black, blue

Eyeball

Rnd 1: Using yellow yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] around (18)

Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] around (24)

Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] around (30)

Rnd 6: Sc around (30)

Rnd 7: Sc 14, sl st. Turn. Sk the sl st, sc in the next st, sc 13. Sl st.

F/O with long tail (to attach eyeball to face)

Pupil/Iris

Using black yarn, ch 11

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Sc 2, hdc 4, sc 3 (10)

Rnd 2: Sw to blue. Start by working down the free loops of the starting ch. Sc 10, ch 1. Work up the sts from row 1, sc 10, ch 1 and sl st to the first st of rnd 2.

F/O with long tail (to attach pupil/iris to the eyeball)

Eyelids (make 2)

Using green yarn, ch 39

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Sc 18, hdc 19.

F/O with long tail. (to attach eyelids to face/eyes)

Cheek Fins (make 2) - blue, bronze, green
Using blue yarn, ch 6

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (5)

Row 2: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 3, hdc, 2 hdc in next st (6)

Row 3: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (6)

Row 4: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 3, hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st (7)

Row 5: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (7)

Row 6: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 4, hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st (8)

Row 7: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (8)

Row 8: Ch 1 & turn. Sc 5, hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st (9)

g ccf Place marker in last st made F/O

Using bronze yarn, ch 4. Sc into the marked st. Sc 2. Sw to green. Sc along the top of row 8, sc down the side of the rows, sc along the beginning ch until you have 2 sts left. Sw to bronze, sc 2, ch 2. F/O

You are going to start the last line of the fin details in the middle of the blue edge moving towards the green edge. Attach bronze yarn in the middle of the blue edge. Sl st 2. Sw to green. Sl st all the way to the green edge.

Tail Fin - blue, bronze
Using blue yarn, ch 6

Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (5)

Rnd 2: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 3, inc (7)

Rnd 3: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 5, inc (9)

Rnd 4: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (9)

Rnd 5: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 7, inc (11)

Rnd 6: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (11)

Rnd 7: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 9, inc (13)

Rnd 8: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across (13)

Rnd 9: Ch 1 & turn. Inc, sc 11, inc (15)

Rnd 10: Ch 1 & turn. Sc across. Place in the outer edge of last st worked (15)

Rnd 11: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 11, dec (13)

Rnd 12: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 9, dec (11)

Rnd 13: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 7, dec (9)

Rnd 14: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 5, dec (7)

Rnd 15: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc 3, dec (5)

Rnd 16: Ch 1 & turn. Dec, sc, dec (3)

Rnd 17: Ch 1 & turn. Sc3tog (1) F/O

Using bronze yarn, ch 2, sc into the side of the marked st. Sc along the edge of the fin towards the beginning ch edge. Sc along the ch edge. Sc up the edge of the fin until you reach rnd 10 (right before the decreases start). Ch 2. F/O.

Spikes - bronze

Spike A (make 2)

Rnd 1: Using bronze yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3: Sc around (12)

Rnd 4: [Sc, dec] (8)

Rnds 5-9: Sc around (8)

Rnd 10: [Sc 2, dec] around (6)

Rnd 11-15: Sc around (6)

F/O with tail (to attach the end of the spike to the body)

Spike B (make 2)

Rnd 1: Using bronze yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3-4: Sc around (12)

Rnd 5: [Sc, dec] (8)

Rnds 6-11: Sc around (8)

Rnd 12: [Sc 2, dec] around (6)

Rnd 13-17: Sc around (6)

F/O with tail (to attach the end of the spike to the body)

Spike C

Rnd 1: Using bronze yarn, MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2: Inc around (12)

Rnd 3-5: Sc around (12)

Rnd 6: [Sc, dec] (8)

Rnds 7-13: Sc around (8)

Rnd 14: [Sc 2, dec] around (6)

Rnd 15-19: Sc around (6)

F/O with tail (to attach the end of the spike to the body)

1) Attach the arms to the body. Make sure you pay attention to which is the left and right arm. They should be place on either side of the body, just slightly below where the increases for the body start.

2) Attach the legs to the body. The legs are positioned at the near the bottom of the body with the toes pointing slightly outward. They are at the sides of the body and located slightly more towards the back of the body.

3) Attach the lower jaw to the head. The top middle of the black section should be placed just below the starting round of the head. Sew the black section to the head. Sew 1 short side and 1 long side of the green lower jaw to the head. The lower jaw will need to be lightly stuffed through the open side. Sew the last short side to the head.

4) Take the upper lip and find the middle to find position for teeth (Fold it in half or count stitches to the midpoint). Sew the top edge of the teeth to the inner side of the upper lip.

5) Position the upper lip so that the mid-point/teeth will line up with your beginning round of the head. The green edge of the lip should be just covering the beginning ring. Sew the green edge of the mouth to the head. (Look to pictures of placement help for the sides of the lips.) Sew the orange edge of the mouth down. The lips are thinner right at the middle of the teeth and wide on either side of that, so position the orange edge accordingly (see pictures)

6) Attach chest to the body. The circles should be located at the top of the chest area.

7) Attach the eyes to the head. The yellow eyeball is attached first, and the iris is sewn to the eyeball. It is positioned so that it is just a little forward of the beginning round of the eyeball. There is one eyelid piece for each eye. One half is bigger than the other half. The bigger half is the upper eyelid and the thinner half is the lower eyelid. Fold it in half and position it around the eye, pinning it into place. Sew the eyelids to the head and eyeball.

8) There are two fins located at the sides of the head. They should be positioned on the head right before the decreases start for the neck. and lining up below the outer edge of the eye.

9) The tail fin is located at the back of the body, close to the bottom. It should be just above the tops of the legs and centered above them.

10) There are 5 spikes of various sizes. There are two spikes down the middle of the head and 3 down the middle of back, spaced evenly. The order of the spikes are as follows (from top of head, down): Spike A, Spike B, Spike C, Spike B, Spike A. Slightly stuffing the spikes will make them a little more firm (I didn't do this, but looking back I wish I did. Mine are a little too floppy.)