Multi-Function Router Table

There are many router table designs out there, some are off the shelf, metal, wood, fancy tops and lifts.

I mulled over designs for a long time but couldn't settle on one I was happy with for my shop.

All of what I could find was either too fixed purpose such as stand alone tables or ones that required too much change and deployment for simple uses such as integration into a tablesaw wing.

I regularly work on projects with components that can be oversized for standard top sizes, I am limited for floor space in the shop and I am a sucker for anything that can carry out more than one function.

I was determined to build this table on a budget so I worked mostly in hardwood ply but I did use some film coated ply for the top to reduce friction when sliding parts across the work surface.

For the casters I went with full rotation on the front but foxed on the back, this makes steering the table into place easier and stops some of the racking when pushing work across the table.

Below is csv file with the dimensions of all of the components.

The router I used is a cheap Erbauer router, I wouldn't recommend this model but we work with what we have.

As stated, I had a number of criteria.

1. Cheap build
2. Multi-function
3. Small footprint
4. Ability to handle large workpieces

So cheap build is easy to address: working with cheap ply, a router I had and hardware reclaimed from previous projecs. Even the router plate was from Wish.com

Multi-function is the odd one, primarily it's a router table, I have added some signifcant infeed and outfeed wings. The whole surface is designed that when the fence is removed that it is a large assembly surface for other projects. The film coating is resistant to glue sticking to it so that makes a nice glue up surface. There are slide out panels from the wings when collapsed that extend up to provide out rigger support for the drill press.

Small footprint: at only 800x400mm and sitting under the drill press when not in use means the whole unit does not consume much floor space.

The table was designed in Sketchup and modelled in all operating modes as seen in the images.

This helped with working out the spacial requirements and bugs in the design.

Learning how to use the interaction tools in sketchup can save a tonne of headaches in construction and worth the time.

I also use an extension called "Cut List" that once all materials are defined then produces a cut list and diagram.

I won't dig too much into the cabinet construction, it is a large box with a cabinet in the bottom and some storage slots on the sides, I still need to make some storage for the sides, I am thinking about 3d printed router bit storage for 1/2", 1/4" and 8mm router bits.

As seen in the images, the table is compact and the fence slides on t-track. There is also a t-track in the top of the fence to slide in a compatible stop block.

With the wings deployed the table is almost 2.1m and incredibly stable. I have only once had a requirement to support the ends of the wings and a pipe clamp proved to be the tool for the job as an outrigger.

With the fence removed and the table pushed under the drill press you can see the supports raised, these are just pinned in place with a cap head allen bolt and tightening by hand is sufficent for almost all applications. This broadens the drill table from 270mm to just over 1m. I had to overcome a deployment problem with these, once the supports were lowered I couldn't grip them. To resolve this, I drilled an 8mm hole below the lower end of the support in the wing. Inserting a bar or a screwdriver allows me to pop them passed the top of the wing and get a grip.

Some of this information will only apply if you are not using a proper router lift and router.

As I said earlier I used a router plate from wish, this needed custom drilling to mount my Erbauer plunge router.

Once mounted I had a constant problem getting the router to the correct height. After some deliberation and the decision to void the warranty I made a number of mods. Please only do these if you are happy to void your warranty too and only do the electrial mod if you are electrically compitent.

I removed the plunge base and stripped out the heavy inner spring. In place of the micro-adjust I ran a 10mm threaded rod. On the lower end I welded a coupling nut as a limiter and trapped an M10 nut inside the unit to carry the router up and down the rod. On the top end (through the plate) I welded a 6mm cap headed allen bolt. This allows the router height to be set from above the table using a t-handle 6 allen key.

While the router was apart, I removed the start trigger as it needed to be pushed all the time for operation. I exteded the wires out to the front and wired to an NVR (no volt return) start/stop switch. This switch has a saftey on the start button and if power is lost the unit will not come back on again after power resortation unit the start button is pushed again.

One last issue was that this router has a lock button on the spindle so it's a single tool change. I could raise the router high enough to access the nut on the collet from the top but not the lock. To get passed this I modified a toggle clamp to push a 6mm rod through a channel aligned with the button. This allows the router to be raise to the top, the toggle pushed and locked, tool change and release.

I have been running this table in the shop for about 2 years.

The top has held up really well. The storage was never finished but I have a 3D printer now so I may follow with a storage update.

The router lift/lock mechanism works well especially on a budget but a dedicated unit would be better.

The router used is aweful, it's underpowered, noisey and vibrates heavilty with larger bits so I have a new router ordered, it's still not a router table/lift unit as that's out of budget. The brand is better and the motor is more powerful.

If have any storage suggestions please drop them below.