Mouse Pad Wrist-Rest
This is a simple Instructable on how to create a wrist-rest that sits in front of your mouse pad. You will need about a quarter of a yard of any type of fabric, some popcorn that is not popped, and basic sewing skills.
I saw that there was another instructable on how to make one of these. But requires more materials, time, and is "for girls " according to my boyfriend. We had the mouse pads with the wrist-rests already on them; but the memory foam wore out really fast and we realized it would be more cost efficient to create our own using a different filler material, and make it last longer.
I saw that there was another instructable on how to make one of these. But requires more materials, time, and is "for girls " according to my boyfriend. We had the mouse pads with the wrist-rests already on them; but the memory foam wore out really fast and we realized it would be more cost efficient to create our own using a different filler material, and make it last longer.
Step 1: Finding the Length Measurement
Measure your mouse pad to determine how long you need to make the wrist-rest. My mouse pad measured 8 inches across. After you have measured your mouse pad, then fold your material into four layers to make cutting easier. Make sure to add an additional two inches when measuring on the material to allow for the seam when sewing.
I used the four layers for extra protection for losing popcorn kernels, and the added comfort/cushion. You may use more or less layers depending on the type of material you are using. I used a rayon/cotton blend because it stretches easily.
I used the four layers for extra protection for losing popcorn kernels, and the added comfort/cushion. You may use more or less layers depending on the type of material you are using. I used a rayon/cotton blend because it stretches easily.
Step 2: Finding the Width Measurement
After measuring the base, measure the width of the wrist-rest. The width will depend on where you would like to place your wrist in comparison of where you hold your mouse. I choose to measure 3 inches for the width. Measure the width on both sides of the length measurement.
Step 3: Measuring the Top Length
I made the top length arc because I wanted the extra space on the top because of the way the bottom of my hand and wrist rests when using my mouse. This was a personal preference and you can just connect the two width measurements straight across.
To add the extra space you measure up an extra 1.5 inches from the middle of the length measurement (this will be the highest point on the top length). Since the width is 3 inches, adding an additional 1.5 inches meant I drew a dot at the 4.5 inch mark from the middle (5 in. mark) of the bottom length line.
Then connect the dot at the 4.5 inch mark to the two width lines to finish creating the pattern of your wrist-rest.
To add the extra space you measure up an extra 1.5 inches from the middle of the length measurement (this will be the highest point on the top length). Since the width is 3 inches, adding an additional 1.5 inches meant I drew a dot at the 4.5 inch mark from the middle (5 in. mark) of the bottom length line.
Then connect the dot at the 4.5 inch mark to the two width lines to finish creating the pattern of your wrist-rest.
Step 4: Cutting Out the Pieces
Since you have already folded the material into four layers you only have to cut once! If you are using a thicker material that is hard to fold multiple times then cut out your pattern and trace it three times and cut out those pieces as well.
I suggest using a circular blade or razor blade to cut out the fabric pieces. If you use scissors be careful because the pieces may come out being different sizes, which may make sewing more difficult.
I suggest using a circular blade or razor blade to cut out the fabric pieces. If you use scissors be careful because the pieces may come out being different sizes, which may make sewing more difficult.
Step 5: Sewing the Pieces Together
**I used white thread for sewing the seam because it is easier to see against the black material. You may use the colored thread that goes with your material**
Hold your four pieces of fabric together along the bottom length side, making the pieces line up together to create a straight edge.
Put your fabric pieces under your sewing machine foot. Put the material under the foot leaving about a 1-1.5 inch space between where you will be sewing and the edge of the material. This is to make sure that you will get all of the pieces sewn together and not have any missed spots where popcorn could fall out.
Also, make sure to leave about an inch of material behind the foot of your machine so the material will not get stuck under the foot and you can push the material through while sewing.
Sew around three sides of the material. Do not sew to the end of each side! Instead sew until there is approximately an inch before the edge and then, with the needle down, lift up the foot and turn your material. Put the foot back down and then sew the next side.
When you get to the last side to be sewn, sew along the edge and stop about half way through the side. If you started sewing on a length side you should be on a width side, so sew about 1.5-2 inches down the side and then stop. You need this open space to put the popcorn into.
Hold your four pieces of fabric together along the bottom length side, making the pieces line up together to create a straight edge.
Put your fabric pieces under your sewing machine foot. Put the material under the foot leaving about a 1-1.5 inch space between where you will be sewing and the edge of the material. This is to make sure that you will get all of the pieces sewn together and not have any missed spots where popcorn could fall out.
Also, make sure to leave about an inch of material behind the foot of your machine so the material will not get stuck under the foot and you can push the material through while sewing.
Sew around three sides of the material. Do not sew to the end of each side! Instead sew until there is approximately an inch before the edge and then, with the needle down, lift up the foot and turn your material. Put the foot back down and then sew the next side.
When you get to the last side to be sewn, sew along the edge and stop about half way through the side. If you started sewing on a length side you should be on a width side, so sew about 1.5-2 inches down the side and then stop. You need this open space to put the popcorn into.
Step 6: Flipping the Material Inside Out
After you have finished sewing the 3.5 sides you will need to flip the fabric inside out so the seams are not seen. I find it easier to cut off the extra material around your seam, but this is a personal preference.
Push the fabric through the opening of your half sewn side until it is flipped inside out. Make sure to push the corners out with your finger or a dull tipped object.
Push the fabric through the opening of your half sewn side until it is flipped inside out. Make sure to push the corners out with your finger or a dull tipped object.
Step 7: Filling the Fabric With Popcorn
To fill the fabric make sure you have the fabric separated and filling between layer two and three of the material.
Using a funnel, or some other instrument, fill the popcorn into the fabric until it is full, but not over filled.
To know when it is filled enough hold the end shut and then try to move the popcorn around in the fabric. If you cannot move the popcorn then it is too full and you need to take some out, but you should not be able to push the popcorn and feel the bottom either. A perfect fill is to be able to press on the bag and your finger goes down about a quarter to half an inch into the fabric.
Using a funnel, or some other instrument, fill the popcorn into the fabric until it is full, but not over filled.
To know when it is filled enough hold the end shut and then try to move the popcorn around in the fabric. If you cannot move the popcorn then it is too full and you need to take some out, but you should not be able to push the popcorn and feel the bottom either. A perfect fill is to be able to press on the bag and your finger goes down about a quarter to half an inch into the fabric.
Step 8: Sewing the Final Seam
You may choose to sew the final seam with your sewing machine. I chose to sew it by hand because I find it easier. Also, I chose to thread my needle and then tie the ends of the string together instead of tying a knot at one of the thread.
Fold the layers of material over with the ends facing into the popcorn. Make sure all the layers are folded over so make a strong and supported seam.
Start by putting the needle into the fabric where it had already been sewn together earlier. This way you will have no gap between the two sewn areas. Sew from one side of the fabric through to the other side and then back. You may chose to use a different sewing stitch, use whatever stitch you are comfortable with.
Fold the layers of material over with the ends facing into the popcorn. Make sure all the layers are folded over so make a strong and supported seam.
Start by putting the needle into the fabric where it had already been sewn together earlier. This way you will have no gap between the two sewn areas. Sew from one side of the fabric through to the other side and then back. You may chose to use a different sewing stitch, use whatever stitch you are comfortable with.
Step 9: Tying the Knot
When you have completed sewing the final seam you are ready to tie the knot. Start by putting the needle through the fabric and pull the thread through, but leave about a loop the size of your index finger on the other side. Then put your needle back through the fabric and put it through the loop a few times before pulling tight to create the knot.
Step 10: Admire Your Finished Product!
Cut off the remaining thread and you are finished!!! You now have your very own wrist-rest made by you, and for you!!