Mount Your Oscilloscope to a Monitor Arm

Want to free up bench space and get your oscilloscope positioned exactly where you need it? This guide shows how to create a custom VESA bracket for mounting an oscilloscope to a monitor arm.

We'll look at two fabrication methods (woodworking and 3D printing) and two attachment options, both of which require disassembling your scope and drilling holes through the enclosure.

Overview

This is a straightforward DIY project that should take 1-2 hours.

The goal is to create a simple bracket from wood or 3D-printed plastic that will be used to attach your oscilloscope to a desktop monitor arm.

It requires comfort with modifying electronic equipment and using basic tools like a drill and screwdriver.

Cost Estimate

1. Wood: Under $20 for a 3/4" plywood project panel
2. 3D printing filament: Under $2 per 60-gram bracket
3. Fasteners: $10-$20 for metric screw/washer/nut assortment

Approximate USD, as of 2025.

General Steps

The basic process involves several steps: disassemble your oscilloscope to identify secure attachment points, drill access holes through the enclosure, design and fabricate a custom bracket, test the fit, and finally install the bracket and attach it to your monitor arm.

There are two different bracket attachment options:

1. Chassis Standoffs: Use existing threaded standoffs or holes inside the oscilloscope's chassis. This provides a clean attachment to the internal frame.
2. Enclosure Through-Bolts: Drill new holes through the oscilloscope's back enclosure and secure the bracket with bolts and large washers.

Both approaches are detailed below.

Throughout the guide, I'll be illustrating the project with my Rigol DS1054z (CAD model).

Background: Why VESA?

VESA is an industry organization that sets standards for video product interoperability. They define a Flat Display Mounting Interface, known as a "VESA mount", which is used by most TVs and computer monitors.

For our purposes it's just a square hole pattern, either 75×75 mm or 100×100 mm, with M4 metric screws.

In other words, any monitor arm or wall mount bracket you might purchase for a display will use one of the VESA hole patterns.

Mounting your oscilloscope onto a desktop monitor arm brings the same benefits it brings to a monitor, including more bench/desktop space, better ergonomics, and flexible positioning for different tasks.

Note: My monitor arm has a quick-release mechanism, which is shown in the photos. If yours doesn't have this feature, attach your scope directly to the monitor arm's VESA plate.

Verify that your monitor arm can hold twice your scope's weight, and consider what would happen if your bracket failed.

Safety and Disclaimer

Beyond typical DIY and electronics hazards, be aware of these additional risks:

1. You may damage your oscilloscope and will probably void your warranty.
2. You are putting a physical load on the scope in ways that it was not designed for, which could lead to other damage or injury if the scope falls off of your monitor arm.

While this project only requires basic DIY skills, carefully consider whether the risks are worth it and whether your oscilloscope and mounting system are appropriate for this use case.

Please don't proceed if you aren't willing to completely destroy your oscilloscope!

What You'll Need

Prerequisites:

1. A lightweight oscilloscope
2. A desktop monitor arm or wall mount that is rated to handle the weight of your scope

Measurement and marking:

1. Inexpensive digital calipers or a ruler
2. Paint marker to transfer hole locations to the enclosure or bracket easily
3. Masking tape if you need to transfer contours or outlines to your wooden bracket

Fasteners:

1. Screws, washers, and nuts:
2. Screws that match preexisting holes in your scope's chassis, probably metric sizes like M3 or M4 (3 or 4 mm diameter). A kit of assorted sizes is $10-$20.
3. M4 (metric) or #8 (imperial) or larger fasteners with washers if you are attaching your bracket to the enclosure
4. Bolts or screws to attach your VESA mount plate to the bracket. Small VESA patterns typically use M4 screws.

Basic tools and materials:

1. Drill with bits to make holes in the oscilloscope enclosure
2. Standard screwdriver for assembly
3. Specific screwdriver to remove oscilloscope screws, like a "precision" set with interchangeable bits ($15-$40)
4. Woodworking tools:
5. Safety equipment: eye, hearing, and lung protection
6. 1/2" (12 mm) or thicker wood stock
7. Saws:
8. Small hand saw or Japanese-style pull saw for straight cuts
9. Jigsaw or coping saw to cut curves
10. Forstner drill bits or chisel if you need to cut recesses into the wood
11. Sandpaper:
12. Low grit (80) to remove sharp edges and prevent splinters
13. Higher grits if you want a smooth finish
14. 3D printing needs:
15. Basic CAD application
16. 3D printer (local library or schools may provide access)
17. Filament (PETG recommended)

To determine the best attachment method, open your oscilloscope and examine its internal structure. Every enclosure differs, so search online for your model's service manual or teardown guides to make disassembly easier.

Note: In this guide, "enclosure" refers to the outer plastic housing or rear cover of the oscilloscope, while "chassis" refers to the internal metal frame.

Remove the screws holding the enclosure together. Look for screws hidden under rubber feet or the handle.

A special screwdriver may be required, possibly Torx (star-shaped) or hexagonal. Some screws have a "security pin" requiring screwdriver bits with a hole in the center. Some screws may require a very long driver to reach.

Take photos or use a screw organizer to track which screws go where. Screws can vary in size, thread pitch, and length. It is important to replace the screws in their original locations to avoid stripping the threads, damaging internal components, or not actually fastening the connection.

Watch for internal tabs that snap into place. Remove these carefully to avoid damaging the tabs or internal components.

Warning: Internal Wiring

After removing the fasteners, don't just crack open the enclosure! There may be internal components that are connected to each other by short or fragile cables, like a power supply attached to one half of the enclosure that provides DC voltage to a board attached to the other half.

Check for these cables as you separate the parts of the oscilloscope.

My scope's rear enclosure is easily removed, but further disassembly would require disconnecting some cables.

As with screws, keep careful track of which connections go where if you disconnect anything.

Example: Rigol DS1054z

I'll use my Rigol DS1054z scope as an example throughout.

Prior to starting this project, I discovered most of what I needed to know from this EEVblog teardown video, which saved me the effort and risk of major disassembly to study the innards.

Reference photos from this EEVblog Blog Post (thanks, Dave!) illustrate what's available to use for this project.

1. Inside view showing some promising threaded inserts
2. Detail of the power supply which explains what those standoffs are being used for

Disassembly was easy. There are two screws next to the front feet and two behind the handle. Keep track of which screws go where! The foot screws have the coarser thread. There are no internal cables to disconnect.

With your oscilloscope open, look for ways to attach a bracket. This guide presents two options.

1. Existing Chassis Standoffs: Use threaded holes or standoffs already present inside the oscilloscope, like those in the Rigol DS1054z. This provides a clean, simple attachment to the internal chassis.
2. DIY Enclosure Attachment: Drill new holes through the oscilloscope's back enclosure and attach the bracket using screws or bolts with large washers. This method might work for more oscilloscopes, assuming the enclosure is strong enough.

Two Fabrication Methods

Once you know your attachment method, choose how to build the bracket:

1. 3D Printing: Design and print a custom bracket. This works well with chassis standoffs and allows for precise fitting around enclosure contours.
2. Woodworking: Cut a bracket from wood using basic tools. This pairs well with enclosure attachment and requires no specialized equipment.

For simplicity, this guide pairs chassis standoffs with 3D printing, and enclosure attachment with woodworking. However, the methods are interchangeable—you can use any combination that works for your oscilloscope.

Existing Standoffs

My Rigol DS1054z has existing threaded standoffs (metal spacers with internal threads) on its chassis that make the project straightforward. These standoffs hold the internal power supply and a circuit board, but the screws don't run the entire length, leaving threads available for bracket attachment.

DIY Enclosure Attachment Points

If chassis standoffs aren't an option for your oscilloscope, the second approach is to create your own attachment points by drilling through the enclosure.

If your scope doesn't have any good existing attachment points, you may be able to find spaces inside the enclosure that will accommodate screws or bolts.

The strength of this attachment depends on the thickness and strength of the scope's enclosure. If space allows, you may be able to increase the strength of the connection using large washers or rigid plates behind the enclosure. Use as many connection points as you need.

Look for threaded inserts or other usable structures on the chassis. If you find something promising, investigate further. I found 8 threaded holes in the rear frame of my scope.

Test different screw sizes gently to avoid damaging threads. Check the available depth—ensure enough thread engagement for strength.

If you don't find any usable attachment points or your investigation reveals challenges, consider the enclosure method.

Each method is detailed below.

Chassis Attachment Method

The next step in this method is to get more information. To avoid injury and damage, you need to know: what is on the other side of the holes? Are the attachment points strong enough?

Based on the teardown photos and examination through the vent, I found that four of the standoffs attach the power supply to the chassis, and four hold a circuit board. The photo clearly illustrates that the chassis is grounded, so connecting to the chassis should not pose an electrical hazard.

Next, examine the enclosure to ensure you can access the chassis connections from the outside.

I had to make a trade-off. The holes I wanted to use allow me to avoid any contours or obstacles on the enclosure, but those holes only allow for 2 mm of thread engagement. The other holes have more space, but the bracket design is more complicated due to the enclosure's shape. For this guide, I demonstrate brackets designed for both the shallow-thread and deep-thread standoff locations.

Enclosure Attachment Method

If you don't find any suitable chassis attachment points, consider the enclosure as another option to attach your bracket to the oscilloscope.

Consider the strength of the enclosure using this option.

My scope's rear enclosure is made of thick ABS plastic, so I took the risk that it would be strong enough to use for this project.

Check for safe spaces to place fasteners. Each location needs room for a screw head and large washer, with no risk of touching electronic components.

A washer is critical to spread out the forces on the enclosure. Use the largest washer (or stack of washers) that you can for each hole.

Mark the candidate locations with a paint marker.

Do you need a bracket?

If you are really lucky, you might be able to put your screws through the enclosure and directly connect it to your VESA mounting plate!

If so, simply place your VESA plate or hole pattern onto the back of the enclosure and mark the hole locations.

Drill holes, fasten the plate on with a bolt and washers, and call it a day!

Please note that I don't recommend making holes in the chassis.

Enclosure Pass-through Holes

Once you've identified your attachment points (either chassis standoffs or DIY enclosure locations), drill access holes through the back of the enclosure for the fasteners that will connect your bracket to the oscilloscope.

For the chassis attachment, transfer the hole locations to the enclosure. Determine the locations through careful measurement, or use a paint marker for easier transfer. Insert short screws into the holes so that the heads are all flush with each other, apply paint to the heads, and then carefully place the enclosure back into place. Press firmly over each screw. Then remove the enclosure and check the paint transfer.

Drill clearance holes for the fasteners.

With the enclosure prepared and your attachment method determined, it's time to design the bracket that will securely connect to the oscilloscope and provide a way to securely attach a VESA mounting plate:

1. Place holes for the fasteners that will connect to the scope.
2. Choose a location for the VESA hole pattern that is compatible with the other fastener locations and the shape of your enclosure.
3. Determine the appropriate thickness of the bracket based on the required strength and fastener lengths.

Fabrication Choice

Choose your fabrication method. This guide covers 3D printing and woodworking.

The woodworking option is about as simple as a woodworking project can get, and it doesn't require any fancy or expensive tools.

If you've chosen to 3D print your bracket, you have two design options depending on the shape of your oscilloscope's back enclosure: a simple rectangular bracket for flat enclosures or a contoured bracket that accommodates curves and obstacles.

Any CAD program and slicer will work for this project. I provide an Onshape model for reference.

The bracket needs to be strong enough to hold the scope and thick enough to accommodate the fasteners.

The strength comes from a combination of the thickness, material strength, and print settings (like speeds and infill). Make test parts to validate your design choices.

My bracket is 11 mm thick and was printed in PETG with 25% internal fill density. I used my slicer's "structural" setting, which slows down the print moves.

Measure your oscilloscope's screw placement and place the VESA hole pattern. Shape the bracket outline to match your enclosure's characteristics, test the fit and strength, and print the final part.

Step 1: Measure Scope Screw Placement

Determine the position of each screw relative to the others. Then determine the approximate position of the screws relative to the enclosure.

For holes not in a rectangular grid, optionally transfer the hole locations to a piece of graph paper and measure the x and y distances with a ruler.

For holes in a grid, place screws into the scope holes and measure the distances between them. Measure from hole center to hole center.

Inexpensive calipers make this measurement easy. Place the calipers onto the screw shaft and zero them. This subtracts the screw diameter from your next measurement, which is from the far side of one screw to the far side of the other. This will give you the distance between hole centers. If you don't have calipers, measure with a ruler.

Identify important measurements for the placement of the hole pattern based on your enclosure's shape. My scope has a protruding contour for the handle, so my bracket must avoid or accommodate it.

Record your measurements on paper or in your CAD program.

Step 2: Place VESA Pattern

The objective of this step is to find a position of the VESA mounting plate that doesn't complicate assembly, doesn't interfere with ports or vents, and fits within the space you have.

The specific hole pattern is dictated by the VESA mount you have. It will most likely be 75×75 mm or 100×100 mm.

Define the placement of the VESA holes relative to your scope attachment holes.

Step 3: Create and Validate the 3D Model

These are the basic steps to design the model:

1. Place the hole patterns.
2. Design the rough shape of the bracket.
3. Create a way to securely fasten the VESA plate.
4. Extrude to final thickness.

Place Holes

In your favorite CAD program, sketch the hole patterns and critical measurements. In my design, I first placed the hole patterns with the origin in the center, and then I drew the shape of the bracket. You may decide to do it in a different order.

For the simple version of my bracket, the attachment hole pattern is 146×78 mm. The VESA pattern is 75×75 mm, and its center is about 10 mm lower than the center of the attachment hole pattern. The top attachment holes are about 10 mm away from the contour that I want to avoid.

Decide how much material to place around each hole. I chose 10 mm wherever possible. Draw a rectangle outset from your outer holes by that amount.

With the hole pattern set, it is time for the first fit test.

There's no need to invest the time and cost to 3D-print the entire part. Instead make a print of the pattern, either by exporting your sketch and printing it on paper or 3D-printing only the first 1 mm of the model. Place the test pattern onto the scope, place the VESA mount (if possible), and install the screws. Adjust your model as needed, and repeat the process until you are happy with the fit.

Sketch Outline, Extrude, and Make Holes

If you haven't already, sketch the outline of the bracket.

Ensure that the bracket does not interfere with access to ports or obstruct any vents.

Extrude the bracket to your desired thickness. Expect to adjust this dimension as needed while testing and validating your design.

Make screw clearance holes by extruding a circle or using your CAD program's hole tool (which should make it easier to adjust the size and fit).

Tip: For Onshape's hole tool, sketch the hole locations with a construction rectangle, and draw 1 mm circles around each hole. When using the hole tool, those 1 mm circles make it easier to use the mate connector selection.

To connect the bracket to the VESA mounting plate, I am using M4 screws with captive M4 hex nuts on the underside of the bracket. "Captive" simply means placing a nut into a pocket that keeps the nut from turning.

To add this to your bracket, sketch a hexagon that is centered with the screw hole. Measure the width of the flats on the nut (M4 nuts should be 7 mm). Add 0.1-0.4 mm to make the nut easy to insert. Dimension your hexagon accordingly.

To determine the depth of the pocket, measure the thickness of the nut and decide how far the end of the screw will protrude from the nut. If there is not enough space, the screw will bottom out into the scope enclosure. Extrude the pocket to that depth.

Consider making a test part with different nut width dimensions to see which works best for you.

Onshape Text Tip: Variables in Labels

You can use variables in text labels in sketches, but the process is not very intuitive.

First, create a text element in your sketch.

Inside the text dialog, right click on the text entry field and select "Convert to expression."

To show "7 mm" in my sketch, I have a variable #baseWidth set to 7 mm. This is the expression:

roundToPrecision(#baseWidth/mm, 3) ~ " mm"

If I want to use this fit test tool for another size of nut, I just have to change the value of #baseWidth. The labels will automatically update.

See the documentation for more details.

By this point, you should have been able to test the bracket's shape, hole layout, and strength. Double check that the bracket will not obstruct vents or ports.

The last critical design step is to choose the specific fasteners that will be used and adjust the bracket's thickness to match. Be sure to include washers in the design.

This is also the time to apply comfort features, like chamfers and fillets, and remove any unnecessary material to save printing time and cost.

Print your Model

Optimal print settings depend on the bracket design, filament choice, and printer capabilities.

For reference, I printed one of my brackets on a Prusa Mini printer with PETG filament and PrusaSlicer's preset for "0.2 mm STRUCTURAL" and 25% infill.

Place the captive nuts into the pockets on the underside.

Reassemble and Install

Before installing the bracket, reassemble the oscilloscope. Refer to your notes to ensure each screw is placed into the correct location and that all screws are used.

Install screws by hand, and don't overtighten them.

Use the largest washers that fit your design.

After installing all screws, perform these final checks:

1. Tighten each screw to similar torque to distribute load evenly across all the mounting points
2. Verify no large gaps exist between the parts
3. Wiggle the bracket to confirm no play or movement

Finally, place the scope onto the monitor arm and secure the quick-release mechanism. You're ready to move on to your next electronics project!

If your scope's back enclosure has curves, obstacles, or recesses (like my Rigol DS1054z), you'll need to modify your bracket design to accommodate these features for a snug fit.

As mentioned above, my scope's chassis hole pattern that allows for longer screws to be used has downsides: it places two of the holes in the middle of a curved surface and one in a recess in the enclosure.

To get a snug fit between the bracket and the enclosure, I needed to account for those features in my design.

I measured the depth of the depression with the end of the calipers and noted the required space between the holes and the edges. Then I extruded the shape to that depth.

Matching the curve took more effort. I approximated the curve's radius with calipers and then made small test blocks with different radii and hole placements. The better the fit, the more evenly the stress will be spread across the enclosure. Based on the tests, I sketched the final profile and extruded away the excess material.

This is a straightforward woodworking project that requires only basic tools and little to no previous experience.

This portion of the guide pairs woodworking with the enclosure attachment option.

Assuming a simple oscilloscope enclosure shape, the simplest bracket assembly will be a rectangular block of wood with eight screws and washers. Otherwise, cut a conforming outline with a saw.

To use the enclosure attachment method with my Rigol scope, the holes end up at the far corners of the unit, which makes the wooden bracket more involved due to the curves and obstacles on the back.

The fabrication process follows these steps: select appropriate wood stock, then determine the bracket outline based on your oscilloscope's shape. Cut the basic form, remove additional material for clearance as needed, sand the edges smooth, drill mounting holes, and install the fasteners.

Select Wood

Select wood thick enough to accommodate the screw lengths you want to use and strong enough for the purpose. I used a 1/2" (12 mm) piece of plywood from my scrap bin.

Create the Outline

If the hole placement and enclosure shape are simple, a rectangular outline may suffice. Otherwise, sketch the right shape for your situation.

Create a template. I recommend using masking tape.

Apply a layer of masking tape to the back of the enclosure, then use a marker to trace around all of the obstacles.

Carefully peel the tape template off in one piece and place it onto the wood stock.

Transfer the marks to the wood using a hobby knife or pen that leave a visible impression.

Then mark all of the cut lines in pencil. Clearly designate which side of the line is to be cut.

Cut the Bracket

Use the saw of your choice to remove the material you marked out.

For a jigsaw, I find it convenient to drill holes at the corners of each cut.

Partial Material Removal

I had to accommodate the scope's bottom feet for my bracket. Because the screws were so close to the edge of the wood, I wanted to retain as much material as possible, so I carved out space instead of cutting away the whole section.

Use a chisel, router, or drill to remove the material. I used a drill press with a Forstner (flat-bottomed) bit. The drill press makes it easy to set a stop and get the same depth on each plunge.

Sneak up on the cut line, removing a little bit at a time and testing the fit against the enclosure.

Sand Edges

Sand the edges smooth to avoid splinters. I used 80 grit sandpaper.

Decide whether to use screws or through-bolts (a screw with a nut).

For bolts, select a drill bit as wide or slightly larger than your screw and make clearance holes.

For screws, predrill the hole based on the screw size. I find that predrilling is worthwhile for accurate placement and to prevent splitting.

The goal with predrilling is to create room for the screw shaft while leaving material for the threads to fully engage. This reduces the risk of splitting the wood, and it makes it much easier to drive the screw.

Search online for "predrill chart" to find the correct drill size. If you don't know the screw's size, find a drill that is about the same size as the main shaft of the screw, excluding the threads. It doesn't have to be perfect.

Install the Fasteners and Reassemble

Depending on your hole locations and fastening strategy, determine whether to attach the enclosure or the VESA mount first.

To spread out the stress on your oscilloscope's enclosure, use the largest washers that will fit in the space you have. For bolts, use washers for both the screw head and the nut.

Drive screws carefully. First, install all the screws with a loose fit. Then position the two parts and tighten the screws. Do not over-tighten the screws: your goal is for the parts not to move, but you should not be deforming the surface of your enclosure or the washers. Tighten bolts in a similar way.

Verify Fit and Clearance

Before final assembly, verify:

1. Parts are flush with each other, with no play (movement) between them
2. Screws are not hitting any electronic components
3. All ports are accessible
4. No vents are obstructed

If all checks pass, reattach the scope enclosure. Refer to your notes to ensure each screw is placed into the correct location and that all screws are used.

Finally, attach the scope to your monitor arm and fully secure it.

You've added VESA mounting to your oscilloscope, which opens up flexible positioning options and frees up valuable bench space. Enjoy your next electronics project!