Mosaic Granny and Full Front-Post Granny Square Tree Ornaments (crochet)

I saw granny-square tree ornaments from two different people this season. But I like front-post (FP) granny squares (see Step 4 for instructions and links); the post stitches cover the holes and compress the whole thing into a squishy delight. A simplified front-post option is the Mosaic Granny, and I made one for this Instructable, but I prefer the full version (you might disagree). I wondered if such a granny square would make a good tree. The post stitches form long lines, which I thought might look like branches. I decided to give it a try.

I like the result!

I made the Full-FP-Granny version (Step 4) in blue, so I think of it as a blue spruce, with well-defined branches. I also made a Mosaic Granny Tree (in green) so that I could show you the simpler option, too (Step 3).

Update 2024/12/28: My YouTube video is here: https://youtu.be/Pn1YtQy_CW8 . A playlist for videos is here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHbuG6dzKF8J87_iJEgulkm-f5aUsKDKs . I've also added some diagrams of color choices and an updated note in Step 1.

US crocheting terms are used throughout.

1. Yarn
2. Matching crochet hook
3. Scissors
4. Yarn needle (optional)
5. Stitchmarker (optional)

Hook, notes:

If you have the yarn label, it'll give a suggested hook size. One or two sizes up or down should still be fine; granny squares are very forgiving. If you're using scraps with the label long lost, twist two strands together a bit. If the hook sort of covers that twisted bit, and the twisted bit sort of covers the shaft part of the hook (where you size the loops), then the hook's in the right ballpark. And "good enough" is fine for granny squares.

Yarn, notes:

Fiber is your choice. I used acrylic.

A worsted weight can give you a 4-5" tree in about 5 rounds, depending on your tension and other parameters. Thinner yarn gives a smaller product and thicker yarn gives a larger product. But you can change the number of rounds to get the size you want; I won't tell on you. More rounds is probably better for the Full FP Ganny tree.

Yarn Color(s): Green(s) for the traditionalist, and maybe also brown if you want to add a trunk (I didn't). I did single-color grannies, though I did use color-gradient yarn for some, which is why my green tree looks a little yellow around the edges. It's also easy to do rounds in different colors if you wish (check some of the links for examples and see the note in Step 1).

Optional yarn: I also had some bright yellow scrubby yarn that I used to put a star on top. There's no particular reason to use scrubby yarn; it's just what I had on hand. I've seen someone do a zigzag of surface crochet as a garland, so you might want a contrasting color for that. If you're willing to vary the stitches to suit your needs, then the yarn thickness doesn't need to match.

Stitchmarker:

This is just to hold the corners together when making seams. I didn't actually use one.

If you know how to make a granny square, just do one in your usual way, then skip to Step 2. Maybe check out the options below, first.

If you don't know how to make a granny square or if you want to examine your default choices, there are links and some details below, along with variations/options. There are yet more links in Step 2 (in some of the videos that show how to sew a tree).

In Steps 3 and 4, I show you how to upgrade to a Mosaic Granny and then to the Full Front-Post Granny. They're only slight variations, despite the truly awesome difference in appearance and squishiness (and I don't use "awesome" very often). This is the real goal of this Instructable, even though I'm starting with a plain granny square.

COLOR NOTE: You can change colors every round (though every two rounds is better for the upgraded/front-post versions) because granny shells stack like bricks - half-width offsets. Consider gradient (ombre) yarn or a set of yarns in graduated colors; either is really good for the front-post versions. Update 2024/12/28: Color diagrams added. For the Full Front-Post Granny with two rounds per color, the center color gets a little lost. I recommend 3 rounds in the center (see diagram). For stripes, swap colors every round; the yarn can be carried up the back instead of cutting and weaving in a lot of ends.

SIZE NOTE: After about four rounds, I started folding my square-in-progress into a tree (see Step 2), then deciding whether to keep going or not. I made a few different sizes. For the full front-post version, more rounds means more branchiness showing on the front, so I prefer six rounds or more.

Granny-Square Links and Options

If you've never made a granny square, check one of these instructions (I show the full link text for those who tend to print out instructions):

1. https://www.instructables.com/Traditional-Granny-Square-Bedspread/ - It only shows 4 rounds, but additional rows follow logically from there. This instructable has a stitch chart that shows the chain-ups, which is nice. It does have you changing color every round, so check other instructions if you want to chain up and continue in the same color.
2. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Crochet-a-Granny-Square/ - At the end of step 2, it doesn't quite explain the difference between side shells that start in the third round and the two shells in a corner, but the rest seems good.
3. https://crochetstrends.com/easy-crochet-christmas-tree-ornament-with-granny-squares/ - and matching no-voice video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaQIXi7Akoo - This one has a sewn-on DC trunk.
4. Or just search on YouTube.

I've included a basic-granny crochet chart in the images above, but it doesn't show how or where to chain up. (Chain-up options are shown in a different diagram.) There's also a stitch decoder for all my charts. Because there's a lot of variation in how people make a basic granny square, I'm describing all the options I know about below, and have made a diagram of most of them. My descriptions are not good for learning (see the links or do a search instead), but they might be good for an experienced crocheter who doesn't often make granny squares, or one who wants a refresher before trying a front-post granny.

Note: This describes a granny square that has shells of 4 double crochet stitches and an optional chain between shells. Sometimes people do shells of 4 or 5 trebles, or 2 or 3 half-doubles, or sometimes even 1-2 singles. It's important that the unit (shell or shell-plus-chain) is square. If not, the sides may bow in, curl forward, or ripple. For trees, these effects may distort the tree, but the result still works. Also: For either of the upgrades (steps 3 and 4), shells need an odd number of stitches. If you use one of these alternative-stitch shells, just do an extra yarnover for the deep center stitch.

A basic granny square, conceptually, with options:

A.

Make a center ring for in-the-round crochet. All stitches are from the front, in separate rounds (not a spiral). The center ring can be:

1. The first chain of a chain-4 (the other 3 count as the first DC). This is easy, and if you crochet over the tail, you can pull the center tight. Too flimsy for the Full FP Granny, in my view, but fine for the others.
2. Ch-4 and slipstitch to close into a ring. I usually do this, and then crochet over the tail so I can pull it to close the center hole later. This approach, with an upgrade to ch-5, is what I use for the Full FP Granny (Step 4).
3. Magic ring: Look up several versions, because people use different tricks. You may need to try a few to find one that works well for you. Magic ring is a good choice for standard granny squares and Mosaic Granny, but it's not great for the Full FP Granny.
4. Backwards slip knot: Tie a slip knot the other way from usual, so that it tightens when you pull the tail (rather than the working yarn). Tighten when done and sew in the tail securely. Similar pros/cons to a magic ring.

B.

Begin Round 1 (black center stitches in my chart):

Chain up or equivalent; counts as the first double crochet (DC) of the first shell of 3 DC. Then add two (more) DC into the center ring to complete the first shell.

Options for chaining up (or equivalent):

1. Chain 3, or chain 2 (as I do because I use a DC to close). Maybe wrap the tail end around the hook as you go up the first time (to thicken and to help secure the tail; not shown).
2. Thick chain-up: Use a forward-loop chain stitch or two (see https://mrsmicawber.blogspot.com/2013/10/forward-loop-chain-alternative-to.html). I use 1 forward loop chain and then 1 regular chain for standard and Mosaic granny squares; I just use plain ch-2 for Full FP Grannies because the chain-up is hidden.
3. Chainless first double crochet: Basically, you pull up a loop extra high, then wrap that around the hook as the yarnover for the DC, treating both strands as one. Search on YouTube; words and unmoving pictures are just inadequate.

C.

Set up the corner increase: ch-2

Explanation: You put two shells in each corner, so you need a chain space big enough for 6 stitches. (Full FP Grannies: still 6 stitches after the initial ring.)

Options: Some people chain 3 instead. I think I even saw instructions for ch-4, once. In later rounds, they might also put a chain-1 between DC groups. Do what you prefer, even when you upgrade to Mosaic Granny or Full FP Granny. The extra stitches might help the square stay flat. I like smaller holes and more squishy FP grannies, so I stick with ch-2 corners and no chains between side shells.

D.

Continue with shells of 3 DC separated by corner chains until you have 4 shells. In this first round, these are side shells (solos, not like corner pairs of shells). That's not obvious until later; trust me or look at the chart.

E.

Close the round and chain up (or equivalent) to the next round. (Round 2 is blue in my chart. And a bit of green for reasons that no longer matter.)

I made diagrams for the options I know about for closing and its relationship to chaining up and starting/ending a round. (Please comment if you know of other options. It may take me a while to respond, though...)

Standard/default close: Chain 2 (or 3), then slipstitch into the top of the initial chain-up to close the round. The working yarn is now at the end of the corner chain space, which is not a good place to start the next shell. Options are (details then follow):

1. slipstitch to next location (standard start)
2. turn, so that you're at the start of a corner
3. use a method to back up - slipstitch backward (not shown) or chain up and back up
4. chain up as the last stitch of the round, then start the first full shell
5. use a different close, such as sideways DC, to end up in a different location
6. cut yarn, finish off, and start in a new location (good for a color change)

Standard/default start: Slipstitch to and perhaps into the next space (for this first round, it's another corner), then chain up or do a chainless 1st stitch. The chain-ups change positions from round to round, which makes them less noticeable.

Turn to start: (not shown in diagram) You can turn at the start of each new round, as in this link (which also shows a granny-square tree): https://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2023/12/crochet-granny-square-evergreen-trees.html

1. Turning makes more definition between rounds, in my view. I don't like it for trees, but you might. It puts you at the start of a corner each time, which is easier, and yet staggers the chain-ups so they're less visible.
2. You can turn after each round with the Mosaic and FP upgrades, but then you have to use back-post stitches when working on the wrong side. That's beyond the scope of this Instructable, though it's straightforward for those experienced with front- and back-post stitches.

Slipstitch backward to start: (not shown in diagram) You can slipstitch backward (into the corner chain just made) to get to either the center or beginning of the corner.

Chain up and back up start: Chain 3 (or even 4) and back up a little so you can add the rest of the shell into the corner you just closed. Work the 2 DC right over this chain-up (as well as the corner chain), or experiment. Rounds always start in the same corner, so they're more visible, but if you're doing something complicated, it's easier to keep track of a pattern.

Chain up as the last DC: Chain 3 (or 2) and treat it as the last stitch of the last shell you'll be working. Put the first true DC into the next space (in Round 2, that's the next corner). At the end of the round, do just 2 DC and slipstitch into the top of the chain to close. I always forget (I work 3 DC and have to undo one), so I don't usually do this, but it's a simple method if you pay attention.

Alternative closes:

Double crochet to close: DC (counts as ch-2) into the top of the chain-up or equivalent (the stitch is going sideways, not downward). I go into the back loop + 3rd loop because I like how it looks. Then pretend the post of the DC is a normal horizontal corner chain. The top of the stitch gives some horizontal displacement, so there's room to the right for the final shell at the end of the round. The top of the stitch is also high, so I only need 2 chains for the next chain-up. For Full FP Grannies, the chain-ups are concealed by the corner trebles (TC), so I don't care if they're aligned (in a standard granny, the alignment makes the chain-ups more noticeable). I typically use this method because it leaves me in the middle of the same corner every time, which I like. Your preferences may differ.

Chain and single-crochet to close: Ch-1 and then SC (single crochet) into the top of the chain-up/equivalent; it may feel more like the middle of the corner.

HDC to close: Similar to DC, but use a half-double, as here, at this time code: https://youtu.be/Zci8HqB2DN0?t=381 (full video shows a tree ornament). I haven't tried this, but I assume it leaves a slightly tighter corner.

Yarn/color change: (not shown) Cut the yarn, finish off. (I pull the loop until the tail comes through, then sew/hook to replicate a continuous top edge.) Start a new color (or start again with the same yarn) on the next round, preferably in a different location so that any chain-ups don't align. This option is beyond the scope of this Instructable, but many granny-square instructions give you options on how to do this. Also look up Standing Double Crochet for a way to start a new strand without chaining up.

F.

In further rounds: Put new corners (3-DC shell, corner chain, 3-DC shell) into corners; put a single shell (3 DC) into the spaces between shells. Optionally, put a chain between shells when going from one location to another (shown as dotted ovals in the chart; I don't use this option, but the chart spacing worked better).

Continue rounds, optionally changing colors, until you decide the square is big enough. (Try 5 rounds if you really can't decide.)

For the tree, don't make a border and don't cut the yarn just yet (until you decide whether to sew or crochet the seams, in Step 2).

Attached is the svg file in case you want to make granny charts and would like a starting place. Some layers may be turned off. Be nice and link back to here (or explain how to search and find this Instructable). If you use it without really changing it (such as just turning layers on and off and/or recropping), then please give credit to ImprovCrafting also.

You can try other people's instructions; just look up Granny Square Tree.

Here are a few examples:

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2JHweo-ZXE - Starts with the sewing, with the bottom folded up straight (not edge to edge like mine), and includes a trunk worked into a space between shells.
2. https://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2023/12/crochet-granny-square-evergreen-trees.html - This one has you turn after each round, and includes a trunk worked into a space between shells. There are also links to other options.
3. https://youtu.be/fk6cteFcnb4?t=447 - (time code starts with finished square) Uses two colors, has a hot-glued cinnamon-stick trunk, twine bow and loop, and tucked-in straight bottom.
4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkN7E_tgYTk&t=546s - This time stamp is for the sewing up. Has a 2-row trunk made separately, then sewn on flat.

My photos are taken from different front-post trees; sorry about the inconsistency. I don't have a photo of a standard-granny tree because I didn't make one.

Optional: Pre-fold the tree, then add a garland or other decorations while you still have access to the back of the square. See Step 5.

A. Optional picot top (photo) and/or hanging loop

The top of the tree will be where your working yarn is. Optionally add a picot (ch-3, then slst into the first chain) for the tippy top branch. (I did this for my Full-FP blue spruce...see photo.)

Optionally add a hanging loop - chain twice your desired loop length (maybe 4 inches / 10 cm), then slipstitch to close. I thought I had photos, but apparently not. I'll add some later if I find them.

VARIATION: Some people (see the cinnamon-stick video) use the ending corner as one of the three corners that get folded to the back. If you have unesthetic chain-ups, this might be a better option. For this option, work the back seam up from the bottom (and then, optionally, make a hanging loop). Seems to work well for the flat variation (see C, below), but I haven't tried it.

B. Fold top two edges to the back (photo)

See the two edges coming from the top? Fold those back so they lie against each other. The two corners should match. Now fold up the remaining corner so it meets the other two. Each of the two bottom edges will be folded in half and sewn to itself (see photo). If you wish, use a stitchmarker to hold the three corners together.

VARIATION: You can fold the bottom corner flat; see C, below.

C. Sew or Crochet the seams (photos)

Decide whether you prefer to crochet the seams or cut and sew. I crochet so that I don't have to figure out how long to cut the yarn. If sewing (all the videos show sewing), you'll be sewing a length equivalent to two sides of the square; you judge how long to cut the yarn. Use mattress stitch, overcast, or whatever other stitch you like; it'll be in the back.

Attach the two long edges down the back of the tree. Add in the third corner where they all meet, and then attach one of the short sides (see diagram and photo sequence). Then work back and attach the other. I ended up with a weird Y shape, but pressing on the place where the three seams meet fixed the problem; squish!

FLAT VARIATION: For a flatter tree with a straight bottom, fold the bottom up like a flap, over the back seam. Or even tuck it in; see this video at this time stamp: https://youtu.be/Zci8HqB2DN0?t=1546 I prefer the three-dimensional squishiness from matching edges, but your tastes may differ.

If crocheting, you can work the first two seams, slipstitch back to where the corners meet, then work the last short bit, cut the yarn, and fasten off. Or crochet the first two seams, cut the yarn and pull it through the back, then just sew the last side. (I cheat-sewed by using the crochet hook to pull the yarn through, repeatedly. I'm often too lazy to get out a needle.)

If crocheting, use your preferred method, but do make sure the seam is not too tight, or the tree will curve like something out of a Seuss book. I'm inconsistent, but tend to hold the yarn behind the seam, on what will be the inside. It's a bit awkward. I often hold the piece in a position that's not normal for crochet, such as vertical and upside down. I slipstitch alternately into one side and then the other. There are alternative ways to crochet. For example, match the edges back to back and slipstitch through both edge loops (maybe back loop for the front piece and front loop for the back piece). Do it your way; I don't have any "best" recommendation.

Tie off each tail and conceal it in the hollow center of the tree (no need to work in the ends, as long as they're secure).

Overview: Work the first two rounds like a standard granny square. Work all corners like a standard granny square. Do your chain-up (or equivalent) and almost everything else exactly the way you normally do a granny, except for the middle stitches of side shells (as follows).

Starting in the third round: Whenever making a side shell, work the middle stitch as a very tall front-post treble around the center stitch directly below (which is 2 rounds below, not just the previous round). Pull up the loop extra high so that the sides don't bow in. See below and the photos for more details.

A note on color: Because the shells alternate like bricks, it takes two rows to do a full color change. The first changes the odd shells and the second does the evens. So if you're trying for a gradient, work two rounds of each color. If you want stripes, alternate colors every round.

If you want detailed instructions, go here and scroll down to #91 Mosaic Granny Square, then select it to download the pdf: https://creativegrandma.net/crochet-patterns/ The file is 91-Mosaic-Granny-Square-PDF.pdf . The matching video is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGnt5yM_OXo "Stitch of the Week # 91 Mosaic Granny Square - Crochet Tutorial" (Glenda Winkleman = Creative Grandma's channel also has the full FP Granny; see next step. https://www.youtube.com/@CreativeGrandma )

Or just look up "Mosaic Granny". I don't know why it's called that, but there are many YouTube videos in a variety of styles and languages.

The special Mosaic/FP-granny shell, in more detail:

Start the shell with a DC into exactly the same place you'd normally put it. But then swap the middle stitch for a front-post treble:

1. Yarnover twice
2. Find the center stitch of the shell directly below the one you're making.
3. Insert the hook from front to back to front, so that the post of the target stitch is pulled forward.
4. Bring the yarn to the front, yarnover, and pull up a loop. Pull it high, up to just above where you'd normally put the DC.
5. Yarnover and pull through two. Maybe pull this one up a bit extra, too.
6. Yarnover and pull through two, twice more (don't pull up extra on the last one).

Now complete the shell with a DC into the usual place (between shells of the previous round). You may have to nudge the treble aside a bit to find the place, but it's otherwise exactly the same as a standard granny. Put a chain between shells or don't; whatever is normal for you.

Side note: You might think you need extra yarnovers to go the whole depth, but I've tried it and it doesn't work well. The big pulled-up loop feeds yarn back into the two yarnovers, and so the end result is looser and delightfully squishy. Extra yarnovers (and pull-throughs) make the stitch thinner and firmer, and then it stays thin and sticks out rather than getting wide and covering the hole.

If you don't pull up the yarn enough, the sides end up bowing in after a few rounds. Then the tree ends up curving in and maybe twisting to one side, like something out of a Seuss book. It still works, but more of the special stitches end up in back, kinda wasted.

When the square is large enough for your preferences, seam as in Step 2. I worked 6 rounds for the green example.

Attached is the svg for the Mosaic Granny. Some layers may be turned off, but they're in the file. Again, link back here if you use it as the basis for your own work.

I like the Full FP Granny better because the posts go all the way to the center. The special corners form a line up the front center of the tree, and I think that's worth the extra trouble. You might prefer the eyelets, though.

For good step-by-step instruction on how to make this special granny square, go to either of these videos (or buy the second pattern - it is no longer free).

1. "1996 Etched Copper Afghan" - detailed video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAEM-FHHmqE I have not been able to find the written pattern; it seems discontinued.
2. The center of the Elements CAL Blanket is identical to the Etched Copper except for color, as far as I can tell. The full pattern is for sale; here's the Ravelry link: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/elements-blanket-cal (shows different color combinations). And here's a matching YouTube video (you only need the first video for the basic FP-Granny square for a tree): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQfJcZpcsIE (how-to for the part used here and a bit more)

Overview:

Use a sturdy center ring because it needs to hold 16 stitches (instead of the usual 12). I use a ch-5 and then work over the tail (to tighten later, if needed).

For the first round ONLY, instead of shells of 3 DC, just work 2 DC per shell (still four shells separated by corner chains). It cuts center bulk and lets the second set of long stitches emerge nicely. (See smaller black diagram. I show a dashed line for the missing middle stitch of the shell, but really the stitches are next to each other, as in the diagram atop the later photo.)

Starting in Round 2: In all corners, do a special middle stitch. Make a long treble crochet (TC) into (around) the corner chain one level down, between the previous shells. In Round 2, you're putting these long stitches into the starting ring. You may have to shove the previous stitches apart a bit. When pulling up the loop, pull it extra high. (See photos and the smaller blue diagram; I used a dashed oval for the optional chain between shells.)

VARIATION: Work the middle stitch into the corner chain below, but go into the chain from above/behind. The resulting stitch is a bit flatter, but it may be easier to work. See this video at this time code for a visual: https://youtu.be/UTJJ09HDP0c?t=160

Round 3 (only): When working a TC into the first round of shells, do a treble crochet into the space between the two DCs. When pulling up the loop, pull it extra high as usual. (See photos and larger black diagram.) You can also use the same alternative as for the corner (go into the space from above and behind).

Round 4 and Later: In the side shells, do the middle stitch as a front-post treble into the middle stitch directly below, same as in the Mosaic Granny (Step 3). The corners are compressed a bit, so you don't have to pull up quite as high unless you want to match the gauge of other granny squares. (See larger blue diagram.)

That's it! Aside from the special start, the only thing that differs from a standard granny is the center stitch of each shell, corners and sides.

Seam as in Step 2.

Photo note: The olive green tree is crocheted with thin yarn, chain-plied to make it more like worsted weight. That was my prototype, and I liked the branchy look enough to make an Instructable. The chain plying (aka Navajo ply or N-ply; look it up, it's a useful skill) made me lose the rhythm a bit, but I do like the result a lot.

Attached is the svg for the Full FP Granny. Some layers may be turned off, but they're in the file. Again, link back here if you use it as the basis for your own work.

Star on Top

I put stars on top of my two sample trees. If you already have a way to crochet a star, do that. My way follows, somewhat sketchily; sorry I don't have a chart and my pictures aren't very good. If you want detailed instructions, do a search for crochet stars.

Star:

See the photos.

1. slipknot (leave a long-ish tail)
2. *ch-5
3. slst in 3rd ch from hook (I worked in the spine)
4. SC in next, HDC in next (=1st ch or top of previous point's HDC)
5. Repeat from * 4 times (total of 5 points), then slst into 1st chain of 1st point to close.
6. SC across the center gap into one of the HDCs (2nd point), then SC across the gap again (4th point). Add more stitches if needed to cover the center hole.
7. Cut a long tail and finish off.
8. Pull tails to the back (the points curl to the front).

Attach to tree: Pull tails through two parts on the top of tree and tie in back. I then slipstitched through the middle back of each point and the tree top to pull each point straighter (photo). Then I tied off again.

Hide tails in center of tree.

Other Decorations

1. You can also slipstitch (surface crochet) a zigzag garland. If you're spatially talented, maybe do this before closing the seams. (Next time...)
2. You can add (sew/glue) beads or bobbles as ornaments. Again, if spatially gifted, you could crochet these before closing the seams.
3. Or forget the star and add white surface crochet (or opaque hot glue) as snow on the branches.
4. Add a comment if you try other ideas!