Mondrian Inspired Bulletin Board
by Branch and Bead in Workshop > Woodworking
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Mondrian Inspired Bulletin Board
My son wanted a bulletin board to help organize his room, but I couldn't bring myself to buy a cheap one typically found at the store. I found myself in a dilemma - I didn't want to buy one, but I wasn't that excited to make one either. I procrastinated on this project until I was inspired by Piet Mondrian's work. With his paintings as a guide, I created this bulletin board that has multiple surfaces, textures, and ways to display work.
Besides a cork board to use with pins, there are Lego base plates, a magnetic board, a white board, and plenty of shelves.
Supplies
Lumber
All frame pieces were cut from 3/4 inch cherry.
Outer Frame
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 41 1/2" (2)
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 26 1/4" (2)
Inner Frame 1
3/4" x 2 3/8" x 21" (1)
3/4" x 2 3/8" x 24 3/4" (1)
3/4" x 2 3/8" x 26 1/4" (1)
Inner Frame 2
3/4" x 2" x 3" (5)
Inner Frame 3
3/4" x 3/4" x 21" (1)
3/4" x 3/4" x 10 3/4" (2)
3/4" x 3/4" x 5" (1)
Plywood
The back is made from 1/8 inch plywood.
1/8" x 41" x 25 1/2"
Inserts
24" x 36" x 1/4" inch cork sheet
white board (I used shower board from Home Depot, which does not erase as well as a true white board)
6 " x 12" 22 gauge sheet metal
Miscellaneous
Wood Glue
Constructions Adhesive
Hot Glue
Wood Finish
Acrylic Paint
Tools
Table Saw
Drill
Router
Clamps
Hack Saw
Outer Frame
Prepare the Sides
The sides are cut from 3/4 inch cherry. I cut these to the final length first and save the miters until the very last step.
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 41 1/2" (2)
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 26 1/4" (2)
A 1/8 inch wide, 1/2 inch deep rabbet is cut into the back edge of each piece to accept the plywood backing.
Route Storage Trays
Three storage trays are routed in the bottom frame piece. These are cut with a 1/4 inch router bit and and 3/4 inch bushing.
A jig is assembled that has inside dimensions 3/4 inch greater than the dimensions of the tray:
4 3/4" x 2 1/8" for the smaller trays and 9 3/4" x 2 1/8" for the larger tray.
Layout where each tray will go, then use double sided tape to mount the template in place.
Route each tray using multiple passes to a final depth of 1/4 inch.
Alternatively: You could use a bowl bit with bearing, and make your template the exact dimensions of the tray.
Miter Ends
Miter the ends to prepare for glue ups. This was done last to avoided damaging the delicate edges during the previous steps.
Glue Up
Assemble the frame with wood glue.
I used band clamps to apply clamping pressure, but corner clamping blocks can also be used.
Inner Frame 1
Prepare Pieces
These pieces are 2 3/8 inch wide, and sit flush with the front of the frame. They are 1/8 inch narrower than the outer frame to match the rabbet and allow the back panel to sit inset. Each piece should be cut based on the actual dimension of your completed outer frame, rather than based on the plan measurements alone.
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 21" (1)
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 24 3/4" (1)
3/4" x 2 1/2" x 26 1/4" (1)
I sanded these pieces before install, as they will be harder to sand once glued in place.
Glue Up with Spacer Blocks
I cut several 3 inch wide spacer blocks out of 1/2 inch mdf.
I used these to ensure proper spacing, and to ensure that each shelf is glued parallel to the frames.
Glue is applied to the ends of each piece and slid into place.
Round Over Front Edges
I finished by using a 1/16 inch radius round over bit to give all front edges a round over. The bit will not reach all the way into the inside corners. These edges have to be sanded by hand to match the profile.
Inner Frame 2
Prepare Pieces
These pieces are 2 inch wide, and are inset from the front edge by 3/8 inch.Their backs are flush with the backs of the inner frame pieces.
3/4 x 2" x 3" (5)
Each piece is sanded, and a 1/16 inch radius round over is put on the front edges with the router.
Glue Up with Spacer Blocks
Same as the previous step, I cut pairs of spacer blocks to install each of these pieces. This isn't strictly necessary, but it makes it easy to ensure that each piece is glued in square.
Glue is applied to the end of each piece, and slid into place.
Inner Frame 3
Prepare Pieces
These inner frame pieces are cut from 3/4 inch x 3/4 inch material. I used the Lego base plates and sheet metal as spacers to measure, cut and install each piece to make sure they were spaced perfectly.
3/4" x 3/4" x 21" (1)
3/4" x 3/4" x 10 3/4" (2)
3/4" x 3/4" x 5" (1)
Sheet Metal
I cut the sheet metal to size with a hack saw. I clamped a scrap piece of wood down on my cut line, and used it as a guide for the saw. This also supported the edge of the cut, to reduce deformation while cutting. I then cleaned up the edge with a file, continuing to use the scrap wood as a guide.
Assemble
The inner frame is assembled using the base plates and sheet metal as spacers.
Sand, and round over the front edge with the 1/16 in radius round over bit.
When dry, glue this inner frame into the main frame.
Final Sanding and Finish
The entire frame is inspected and any touch up sanding is done.
I finished the frame with an oil based wipe on finish, but any finish you are comfortable applying is suitable.
Final Asembly
Prepare Pieces
The back panel is cut from 1/8 inch plywood. And screwed to the frame from the back.
1/8" x 41" x 25 1/2"
The frame location is traced onto the plywood and screw holes are drilled, and then counter sunk to accommodate screw heads.
The back panel is then sanded. I left it unfinished, except for an area I painted to add a little more color.
Key Hole Hanger
The bulletin board will hang on the wall with key hole hangers. A recess is cut in the back panel for the hangers to sit in. I used a template, and a pattern bit to cut this recess.
With these hangers, a recess also has to be cut to accommodate the screw head. I free-hand cut this with a router into the frame.
Cork Board and White Board
The cork board and white board are cut to fit in place. Rather than using the plan dimensions, measure the actual dimensions of your frame to ensure a perfect fit.
Assembly
The back panel is laid in place and the screw holes are pre-drilled into the frame using a self centering drill bit. This is to ensure that the screws do not split the frame. Drive screws.
Each insert is glued in place.
I used construction adhesive for the cork board, white board and sheet metal.
I used hot glue for the Lego base plates.