Monarch High School Corn Hole Board

How to create 3 sets( 6 cornhole boards) with customizations that has the proper length under the ACA (American Cornhold Association).

• 3 sheets of 60 x 60 Baltic birch
• 14 2" x 4" x 8' wood planks
• 48 5/16ths Nuts
• 24 5/16ths Washers
• 24 5/16ths lock Washers
• 48 2 1/2in Screws (Square bit)
• 36 2in screws (Square bit)
• 24 5/16ths 3 ½ inches long Bolts
• Elmer's Wood glue (3)
• Danish Oil
• Kreg Jig kit
• Drill
• 3/8in drill bit
• Drill press
• CnC router
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Sand paper (80, 120, 240, 330, 400)

Make sure you wear all the proper safety equipment for using power tools. This means you should be wearing safety glasses at all times.

You will need to:

Use miter saw:

Cut Top and bottom 2"X4" to 21 inches long.

Cut right and left side 2"X4" to 48 inches long.

After cutting these, you will need to joint these boards so that 1 side is completely flat.

After jointing, table saw the board with the jointed side along the fence.

You should cut the least amount of material possible.

Then cut the 60inX60inx1/2in Baltic Birch wood to get two pieces of plywood until they get to be 48inX24inx1/2in.

In order to make the holes to attach the top boards and the frames together with screws, we used the Kreg Jig in order to hide these holes so they are more aesthetically pleasing.

Frame (21 inches):

1. Clamp the kreg jig down to a stable surface.

2. Place the board in level, vertically and clamp the board in.

3. Drill the 2 holes on the outside with the provided bit.

4. Switch to the other side of the board.

48 inch boards: 1. Follow step 1 above.

2. Place the board in horizontally and level, clamp the board in.

3. Drill 3 holes 11 inches apart from one side.

Repeat these steps for all the the boards needed.

For our project, we utilized the C&C router in order to cut out our holes for the top boards. This was much more efficient and precise compared to using a plunge router, which was our first idea.

1. Open Vcarve on the computer and select the file made for the cornhole boards. Also use a stand to make sure the board is level and make sure to clamp down the board using the provided clamps.

2. Center the axis on the hole you have marked on the board, which should be 12 inches from the long side and 9 inches form the top.

3. Execute the program from the file to cut the hole.

4. Repeat for the rest of the boards.

Vcarve file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3MF0QmCLcFLZ095M1Q2SWg3d25FZkVGS1N5cjBrTHptMjM0/view?usp=sharing

We assembled the frames using screws from the provided kit from the Kreg jig and wood glue. We advise to make sure all the corners are 90 degrees and the frame is 24 inches wide by 48 inches long when completed. This will ensure perfect fitment when attaching the top board.

1. Drop a bead of wood glue on the wood that is going to be made. Don't put too much or else it will spill out and be hard to clean later on.

2. Using a square, make sure the boards are lined up at a perfect 90 degree angle. Use clamps to clamp them down in this position. Also make sure there is a clamp holding the 2 boards together.

3. Using 2 1/2 inch screws, screw them in to the holes made by the Kreg jig. Make sure these are in all the way.

Repeat these steps to complete a frame. Make sure the frame has perfect 90 angles and the correct dimensions for length as it will affect the fitment of the top board later on.

Before attaching the board to the frame make sure to law down your work surface with cardboard or something in between the board and the surface to avoid scratching the top board.

1. Place glue on the top board around the perimeter, on the bad side, and lay down the frame on top. Make sure to not put too much as it will spill out and be a hassle to clean later.

2. Line up the frame to the top board. Make sure the good side of the board is facing opposite of the frame. Clamp the 2 boards down to a table.

3. Using 2 inch screws provided by Kreg and 12 pounds of torque, screw the frame to the top board using the 6 holes that you made.

4. Repeat for all the frame and board combinations.

Using the 2 by 4s, you have remaining, cut 13 inch boards. These will be used for legs.

1. On one side of the board, mark 2 inches on one edge of the board.

2. From the opposite corner to that mark, cut a diagonal, using the miter saw. Make sure the miter saw blade is accounted for when cutting.

3. Using a 3/8 in bit drill a hole on the other side. This should be 11 inches from the longest side and 9 inches form the shortest side, 1.75 in from the width of the board.

4. At the hole side, cut a 3.5in radius from the hole. If this doesn't fit the board without rubbing, sand this radius down to fit.

Repeat for all the boards (12 legs).

We attached the legs using a nut and bolt combination to safely secure the legs and make sure that we could swing the legs out.

First drill a hole using a 3/8in drill bit, 4 inches from the top edge of the side and 1.75 from the bottom of the board.

The order to place the bolt in is:

1. Bolt (5/16in x 3 1/2 in.)

2. Washer (5/16in x 1 1/4in)

3. Leg

4. Lock washer (5/16 in)

5. Nut #1 (5/16 in)

6. Nut #2 (5/16 in)

Before placing Nut #2, tighten Nut #1 until the lock washer in set inside the leg and the bolt head is flush with the outside.

Then, loosen the nut until the desired resistance is achieved for the leg.

Finally, use 2 wrenches to tighten both nut 1 and nut 2 in opposite directions.

We used 80, 120, 240, 330, then 400 grit sand paper to erase most imperfections and prints on the boards. This also made the boards very smooth and ready for finish.

Also erase any pencil marks that are left at this stage.

We used danish oil to bring out the grain in the wood we used.

1. Make sure the surface is clean.

2. Using a old rag or t-shirt, etc., apply danish oil to the rag.

3. Rub the stain in, applying moderate pressure.

4. Repeat until the desired shade is achieved.

5. If wanted, allow 15 minutes to dry and apply a 2nd coat of stain.