Modern Speaker Stands

This Instructable will show the steps to creating a modern looking speaker stand.

I purchased a pair of Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 55 speakers that were in desperate need for some stands. I initially had them on a record cabinet that was uneven and too close together. I searched for a while looking for stands that would fit the SM55s but non really exist. And the DIY online did not fit the aesthetics of the speaker. I finally found a pair that has aluminum with a piano black finish that matches the speakers well. For $3500 I could purchase a pair of Langerton 2.0. Seeing that I had access to a machine shop I could replicate these stands.

9”x120”x2” Maple

ø2” solid Aluminum

Wood glue

Hanger bolts ¼ x 20 x 2 - 8 each

Phillips Drive #10x1/4 Flat Head wood screw zinc - 8 each

Socket Flat Head 1/4x20x 1¼ - 12 each

Clamps

Combination square / ruler

Calipers

hack saw machine

Table saw

Miter saw

Planer

Jointer

Belt sander

Lathe

Steady rest

Lathe dog

Milling machine

½” end mill

drill bits

Created an assembly in Creo / Pro-E to get the dimensions. I used 2" thick maple for the top and bottom and 2" diameter aluminum bars. I designed two different feet, one for carpet that is cone shaped and one that is flat made for tile or wood. I initially wanted the top to have a cut out for the speaker to sit in but eventually decided against it and have the top flat. To attach it all together, the top will have a plate inserted inside it that screws to the legs and to the top.

I used a hack saw machine to cut the ø2” solid Aluminum for the legs and feet. I cut them a little over 23.5” for the legs and a little over 2” for the feet. There are 6 legs and 16 feet. Next, I ran the wood through a planer and cut three 17” long pieces for the base. One of the 17” board was cut in half and glued to the other board and clamped overnight. The top was cut into a board 30” long and sent through the planer and jointer and then cut to the desired length.

First step was to face one side using the lathe. Since the legs are long I used a steady rest at one end, about 2" from the edge with a heavy amount of grease. After one side was faced I could measure the length to be 23.5”. I put it back into the steady rest and faced it until it measured 23.5”. Next, center drilled both ends 1.25” in and manually thread it to fit a 10-24 screw. To side the metal for a nice finish, a lathe dog was attached.

Top

I needed to bore out the underside of the top to fit the plate that will hold the legs so I attached it to the mill. Scrap wood pieces were placed on the side with clamps so it would not leave a mark. To make sure it was even, a combination square was used on the side so when moving the mill it would cut straight vertically and horizontally. A ½” end mill was used and set to go ½” into the bottom of the wood.

Insert Plate

Next, I needed to make the plate that would go inside so a 1” thick board was used. I planed it to 7/16”, cut to fit inside the top and used a belt sander to round the corners. To make sure that the legs would fit properly to each top and bottom plate a stencil was made using sheet metal with holes placed where they would be drilled to the legs. This was traced to the inside plate and bottom piece. Drilled holes for a #10 wood screw for the plate corners that will screw into the top and counter sunk, drilled holes for the 1/4x20 socket flat head.

Bottom

Using the stencil marks I drilled the socket flat head and on the under side to allow for screwing them into the legs. Drilled for the hanger bolts for the feet. Chamfer the edges and corners for the top, insert plate and bottom.

Came out exactly like I envisioned.