Modern Industrial Hanging Steel Pan Rack

After embarking on a personal goal to learn how to cook better, I began to run out of space in my kitchen with all of the new utensils and pans. I figured I could hang my pans to gain a lot of space quickly, so I decided to build a modern, industrial hanging pan rack. I had some remnant steel laying around in my garage, so I figured what better way to use it? I purchased some hardware from Home Depot for about $25, and viola, an inexpensive, reasonably good-looking pan rack!

I sadly don't have much record of any planning, but seeing as it's 3 pieces of steel, it isn't too complicated.

To build this rack I used the following materials:

• 1.25" square steel tubing, 3/32" wall thickness
• 2x 1.25"x1.25" flat plate steel (1/8" thickness)
• 14x 1/4-20 threaded steel hooks
• 24x 1.25" OD steel washers
• 24x 1/4-20 nuts
• 4x 1/4-20 thread drywall anchors
• Short length of chain

And the tools I used:

• 120V MIG welder
• Angle grinder with
  • Cutoff wheel
  • Flap sander
  • Grinding wheel
• Steel chop saw with abrasive blade
• Hand drill
• 90-degree square

I chose to make this a simple, rectangular rack. It's 48" wide and 8" deep, with one of the long sides missing, so it looks like a squashed "U". You will need:

• 1x 48" length of 1.25" square tubing
• 2x 8" lengths of 1.25" square tubing

Cut these with your chop saw.

Miter both ends of the 48" piece and one end of the 8" pieces so that when you weld them together, you won't have any exposed openings. For the open ends of the short pieces, cap them with some square pieces of steel. I cut mine out of a piece of 2" angle steel, but any sort of plate will do, as long as it's thick enough to weld.

Next, it's time to weld!

1. Clean up the weld points by grinding off any black oxide (or rust in my case!) using your angle grinder
2. Grind a chamfer into the weld joints.
3. Arrange the pieces together at right angles -- use the square to make sure the pieces are, well, square.
4. Tack weld the pieces together and ensure everything is positioned properly. Make adjustments as necessary.
5. Weld the joints fully

I'm not the most skilled welder, so I prefer to grind down my welds for a seamless, sleek look. Use your angle grinder to clean up your welds as you see fit!

To give it an industrial look, I gave the whole thing a once-over with a flap-sanding disc for a rough swirled effect.

Next, drill the holes for the hardware. Drill all the way through both walls of the tube. Use a 1/4" drill bit to and space the holes roughly 10" apart -- this will give enough room for your hanging pans.

Drill a hole into all four corners of the rack,

Be sure to drill SLOWLY with lots of lubricant/coolant. I got a bit excited, as you can see in the photo!

Next, install the hooks, washers, and nuts. The hooks in the four corner holes will point up, while the rest of the hooks will point down. Sandwich the steel with a nut and washer on each side:

• Nut
• Washer
• Steel
• Washer
• Nut
• Hook

Arrange them as necessary and tighten the nuts to secure the hooks in place.

I bought a short length of chain from Home Depot and hacked it into four 2-link segments. I have a low ceiling, so I needed these to be short. If you have a taller ceiling, your chains may need to be longer.

Taking the necessary precautions to locate studs and the like, mark out four points in a 50"x10" rectangular pattern. At each point, drill a hole large enough to fit your drywall anchors. Mine needed 3/4" holes -- I used my trusty Forstner bit to accomplish this. These drywall anchors are rated to 40lbs, so theoretically this rack should be able to support 120lbs. My pans aren't THAT heavy, so it should be adequate. Haven't had a problem yet! (*Knocks on wood*)

Note: using different hooks, you could simply thread them directly into a stud. This would be more solid than the drywall anchors.

Install the hooks with a washer and nut.

Finally, hang up the rack with the chain links and the job is done! It works great and has saved me a ton of space!

Thanks for looking!