Metal Coffee Table Base From Scraps DIY

Coffee table base from scrap pieces left over from your other projects. A fun project for the weekend. Absolutely customizable, 3D model included.

It will take several days of unhurried work to make. This coffee base will remain in your family for many years and will delight you and surprise your guests, guaranteed.

Base size: 420H x 480W x 480D mm (16″ H x 18.8″ W x 18.8″ D).

You will need:

1) A bunch of scrap pieces of sheet steel 1-3 mm (1/25″-3/32″) thick for the body (cold, hot rolled or both). Or 1 piece, approximately 650x650mm. (25.5″-25.5″)

2) One 400-500 mm (15.7″-19.7″) piece of 4-5 mm (1/8″-3/16″) thick steel for the bottom plate.

3) Any type of welding machine - TIG/MIG/MAG/MMA.

4) Angle grinder + cutting, grinding and sanding discs.

5) A little putty, or a lot, depending on how it goes :) and something with which it can be applied.

5) Primer + Paint, or even a lacquer if you want to go all the way.

Cut paper parts from the printed nesting.

Lay out the printed parts on the metal and circle the parts with a marker. Do not forget to number the details, this is very important.

If possible, you can use plasma, water jet or laser CNC. Instead of using hand tools.

Using a cutting wheel (preferably not the thinnest), make small half cuts along the bend lines.

The tricky part. Gradually bending the parts, apply them to each other, starting from the bottom. Do not worry if, as a result of repeated unbending, some part breaks off along the fold, just weld a few spots from the inside and go on.

When the pieces are bent, put a couple of tacks on each side and weld it.

Use a flap disk to clean up the welds.

Also, a pretty tricky step. Tack assembly. From bottom to top. Most likely there will be gaps during assembly, no worries, weld them. That's why we have putty :)

Just repeating steps 6 and 7. Weld and clean.

The most important step. Branches are the support of our table top. Their top points must be at the same height, otherwise the countertop will not stand straight.

Also weld on tacks, if you are not sure, do not weld completely. Make a few secure tacks and move on.

Put the base on the plate, set it up and assemble on tacks. Do not weld completely.

A 500 mm (19.7″) plate is suitable for countertops no larger than 700 mm (25.5″) in diameter. If you plan on using a large countertop, I recommend increasing the bottom support plate size.

The last step in assembly. Turning our base upside down, we substitute the mounting plates for each branch and weld them. Mounting plates can be of any shape, depending on the countertop you plan to use. In my case, I cut out 3 ovals and made holes for the screws, since I'm using a wood countertop.

At this stage, it is possible to finally check how accurately we welded the branches. It is enough to make sure that the table on which we assemble our base is leveled. Next, simply put the level on the bottom support plate (our base is upside down). If some side is too high, you can put a tiny steel piece between the branch and the upper mounting plate to level it up, and weld it.

After our construction is ready, we can finally weld it completely and clean everything.

If you want to get smoother lines or hide traces of rough grinding, putty can be applied. I used automotive putty with aluminum filler.

If you plan to use the base indoors, it may be sufficient to use paint only. But since I was planning on doing distressed styling, I used a white 2k automotive primer. After curing and sanding, I applied the usual metal paint.

For a nice distressed look, I used sandpaper with a grit P240 and just rubbed on the edges and corners to create the old-fashioned look of rubbed paint.

Since in some places I rubbed the paint along with the primer, I applied a clear varnish to protect against corrosion.

Also, added felt pads to avoid scratching the floor.

This step is absolutely optional, but should warn you that things can get messed up at this stage. Since the varnish is applied last, it is very important that it does not dissolve the previous layers of paint and primer. For example, if you used conventional oil or enamel-based paints, then you CANNOT apply automotive acrylic varnish, it will simply dissolve all the layers underneath.

You can apply automotive acrylic primer, paint, and use oil or enamel-based paints/lacquers on top of it, but not vice versa.

That's actually all. Now you can pat yourself on the shoulder and drink a cup of coffee :)

P.S.

Since I am not a professional 3D designer, I ask you to double-check everything for yourself. Maybe before start making it from metal, make it from cardboard to check if everything is fits your needs.

If you have any questions, please let me know.

Thanks!