Meow-sical Cardboard in Motion

I’ve always been fascinated by the kinetic sculptures of Reuben Margolin. After watching his TED Talk, I began dreaming of creating a piece where a violin transforms into a tree, with its leaves shaped like musical notes floating away in the wind. This vision evolved into a kinetic artwork where the motion of the notes mimics the flowing curve of wind and the sound of a violin.

1. Industrial cardboard (4mm thick)
2. Thin cardboard
3. White glue
4. Acrylic paints (greens, blues, browns, black, white)
5. Sponge (for dabbing paint)
6. Metal eyelets (the kind used for shoelaces)
7. Washer rings (small metal ones, to add weight to the notes)
8. Blue and white thread
9. Tweezers or pliers
10. Cutting knife (X-Acto)
11. Ruler
12. Markers (like a white permanent one for the wind lines)
13. AA battery holder (for 2 AA batteries)
14. On/off switch
15. Gear motor
16. Heat shrink tubing
17. Soldering iron or heat source (I used a candle)
18. Mototool with a small drill bit
19. 3D printer (for the motion mechanism parts)
20. Acrylic sheet (for front protection)
21. Illustrator or similar design software
22. Access to a laser cutter

I used Illustrator to create the shapes and layers of the frame. I started by defining the outer dimensions, the motor’s center point, and holes for the threads.

I downloaded some basic shapes from Freepik and edited them by converting them into silhouettes and warping them to achieve the desired effect — like blending a violin and tree into one.

I gradually added elements to each layer. Illustrator’s layer feature made it easier to visualize their placement, especially in relation to the motor, ensuring it would be hidden by the design.

I designed the cutouts for the battery box, motor, wiring, and switch in the appropriate layers.

I assigned different colors to each layer to study how they interact and ensure everything aligned correctly.

I created two files: one for cutting 4mm thick industrial cardboard, and another for thinner cardboard. I added corner tabs and borders to increase depth between layers.

I sent the files for laser cutting.

After cutting, I wiped the edges with a damp cloth to remove the soot left by the laser.

Even after cleaning, the edges still stained. I sealed them with white glue to prevent smudging.

I inserted small metal eyelets (like the ones used for shoelaces) into the tiny holes surrounding the large central circle.

Using a sponge, I dabbed on green paint — a stronger tone for the foreground and bluer tones for the background.

I used various brown tones for the violin, branches, cats, and their tails.

I created a sky gradient from dark blue to white by dabbing and blending with a sponge.

I started gluing the layers near the switch, applying white glue between pieces.

I added support tabs and the violin piece, ensuring everything aligned.

📝 Note: Any added lower supports/extra spaces, must be mirrored on top to keep even thickness.

I marked and drilled holes for the switch using a small drill bit.

I cut the red wire from the battery box, stripped it, twisted it to the switch, and secured it with heat shrink tubing.

I glued the battery box into its space and attached the switch with tiny screws.

I placed the gear motor into its slot and connected the wires: black from the battery and red from the switch.

I drew a curved line on cardboard as a guide for the wind lines, then traced it onto the sky layer using a white permanent marker.

I placed metal eyelets on the top sky layer to guide the threads that hold the musical notes.

I glued the missing layers like the sky, cats, and tails.

I glued two border layers to the back side of the sky piece to add depth, then attached the layer with the large circle and smaller surrounding holes.

(Note: In the photos, this piece appears painted blue like the sky, but that’s just because I initially painted the wrong side by mistake.)

I 3D modeled a custom piece to create the rotating motion. On one side, it connects to the motor shaft, and on the other side, it has a hole designed to fit a small bearing. I also 3D printed a second, smaller piece that fits snugly inside the bearing — this is the part I would later use to tie the strings.

I inserted the small 3D-printed piece into the bearing. Then, using a piece of wire, I shaped a loop with two straight ends. I heated those ends with a candle and carefully embedded them into the small printed piece inside the bearing. This created a secure metal loop where I could later tie all the threads.

I installed the 3D piece on the motor axle, added two more depth layers, and finally glued the back layer with holes for hanging the frame on a wall.

I added a small piece to simulate the bridge and glued white threads as strings after dipping them in glue.

I sponged black paint onto the musical notes.

I painted small iron washers blue to blend with the sky and used them to add weight for proper motion.

I took pairs of washers and tied them together using a thread. Then, I passed each thread through one of the top holes on the sky layer (where I had installed the eyelets), and continued threading it through one of the smaller holes surrounding the large central circle on the next layer.

I pulled all the threads tight so that the washers sat snugly against the eyelets on the sky layer. With the threads grouped together, I found the central point where they all met naturally. To that distance, I added the space between the motor’s axis and the loop on the bearing. That gave me the exact spot where I needed to tie a knot, securing all the threads tightly to the metal loop I had embedded in the small 3D-printed piece inside the bearing.

I turned on the motor... and it worked! The washers moved in a beautiful wave as imagined.

I glued the musical notes onto the washers and also some onto the branches.

I glued the remaining top layers.

I measured the final depth and designed the frame in Illustrator, accounting for a front acrylic slot and a bottom switch hole.

I painted it with various brown tones using a brush for a wood-like texture.

I glued the sides and front frame pieces.

I slid the acrylic panel into the front slot for protection.

And it’s ready! You can display it on a table, shelf, or hang it on the wall.

Happy making!